05-08-2022, 11:03 PM | #1 |
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Drives: 2019 BMW 540
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Location: Suburb of Chicago
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Anyone done a coolant flush yet?
I brought my 540 back in March of 2022 with 29500 miles. Sitting at 29800~ miles right now.
I followed Mike Miller's maintenance thing on my E90 and plan on following that same maintenance plan for the G30(coolant flushes every 2 years, oil change 5k/6 months etc). I flushed the coolant on my E90 before i sold it. Super easy DIY. Not sure if anyone has done a coolant flush on their G30 yet. Lifetime Maintenance Schedule: http://www.dslreports.com/r0/downloa...e%20v03.13.pdf
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Sold: 2009 BMW 328 (AWD) Last edited by Mosaud1998; 05-08-2022 at 11:32 PM.. |
05-09-2022, 01:56 AM | #2 |
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I haven't done it, but I do plan on it this year. Flushing the coolant in the G30 isn't any different than any other more current BMW. The process is much faster if you have a Vacuum Coolant filler kit.
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05-09-2022, 04:13 AM | #3 | |
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Drives: 2019 BMW 540
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On the E90, you just put your foot on the accelerator for 10 sec and the water pump would turn on to bleed the system.
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05-09-2022, 04:48 AM | #4 | |
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Hope this helps! |
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12-16-2023, 10:54 AM | #5 |
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Anyone have a similar video for the N63TU2. I have a 2018 m550i and I noticed that the main reservoir has required a top off every so often but the secondary is actually overfilled. The main reservoir coolant is blue but the secondary is filled with green... Should I have this bled and start fresh with the blue coolant? I did notice that my a/c is not as cold as it should be and my heat is hot only at 84 but if I turn it down to 80 it becomes very cold, no heat. Anyone else have similar issues?
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12-16-2023, 07:35 PM | #6 |
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Drives: Bmw 335i f30 N55 ( sold)
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Is that mikes guys recommendation proven at all to better the life of the car?
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01-19-2024, 03:10 PM | #8 |
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2018 m550I
I've owned 8 BMW's over the years and the one thing I can say is that if you live in "hot" weather states, your maintenance schedules/repair costs are completely different from those that don't. These cars are made/manufactured in Germany. Compare the weather of your area to that country. If you live in Florida, Texas, or S. Arizona (or other 'hot' weather states) be prepared for your 'ultimate driving machine' to have many more problems for folks that don't consistently drive in the heat. You should use a higher viscosity oil, have more frequent coolant changes and have (on average) much more frequent maintenance intervals. If you treat and maintain your car as such you will get the benefits/performance of owning these great cars. If you just want to gas & go & drive....buy a toyota.
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01-21-2024, 03:21 PM | #9 | |
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In addition to my M550ix, I have a daily driven 2001 540 M-Sport I have owned basically since new. I have followed Mike Miller's recommendations on transmission/differential, brake, coolant and oil changes, as well as other recommended maintenance schedules and I am now 500 miles shy of 360,000 miles. Original engine and transmission, never been rebuilt. I did have to have the timing chain guides replaced at 263,600 miles, but that is way later than most...who have them let go at 150k to 200k . I perform oil changes every 7,500 miles which is half the factory recommendation and use factory approved LL-01 BMW spec oil. Transmission and differential were serviced every 30k for the first 180k miles, or so, then I went to every 50k...thinking that 30k recommendation was overkill. His current recommendation is every 50k to 60k on transmission, differential and transfer case (x drive). Coolant change every 2 years I believe is his recommendation, I have since gone to 4 years. A flush is recommended mostly for the heater core, as they are prone to plug when the cars get on in years and miles. |
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01-31-2024, 12:45 PM | #10 | |
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"Second publication in whole or in part is forbidden, including internet posting....No part of this article may be reproduced, republished, made available in electronic form or posted on the internet without the prior written consent of the copyright holder." |
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03-13-2024, 12:44 PM | #11 | |
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1) Put seat belt on 2) Quickly press the start/stop button 3 times 3) Set HVAC to 84 degrees and on the lowest fan setting 4) Press and hold the accelerator for 15 seconds I've tried this multiple times but don't hear the pump start. Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the correct process and/or have any tips? |
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03-27-2024, 05:32 AM | #12 | |
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For the high temp circuit (large tank): Connect battery charger. Close driver's seat belt. Activate the testing-analysis-diagnosis (PAD) by quickly pressing the START-STOP button 3 times. Adjust the heating to maximum temperature and adjust the blower to the lowest stage. Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 15 s. The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated. Start engine. The Idle speed is automatically increased to 1200 rpm. Press accelerator pedal until engine speed reaches approx. 3500 rpm, maintain this engine speed for 10 s . Hold idle speed for 30 s. Press accelerator pedal until engine speed reaches approx. 3500 rpm, maintain this engine speed for 10 s . Hold idle speed for 30 s. Press accelerator pedal until engine speed reaches approx. 3500 rpm, maintain this engine speed for 10 s . Hold idle speed for 30 s. Press accelerator pedal until engine speed reaches approx. 3500 rpm, maintain this engine speed for 10 s . Hold idle speed for 30 s. Press accelerator pedal until engine speed reaches approx. 3500 rpm, maintain this engine speed for 10 s . The cooling system bleeding routine has finished approximately 11 min after the engine starts. The engine speed drops to the idle speed again. Switch off engine. Allow the engine to cool down. Adjust the filling level in the coolant expansion tank of the high-temperature coolant circuit to 200 ml above the maximum mark. for the low temp circuit (small tank) Close the sealing cap (1) on the coolant expansion tank of the low-temperature coolant circuit. Connect battery charger. Activate the testing-analysis-diagnosis (PAD) by quickly actuating the START-STOP button three times. Activate the low-beam headlight and the hazard warning lights at the same time. If the low-beam headlight and the hazard-warning lights are not switched on, then the ignition (terminal 15) will automatically switch off after some time and interrupt the bleeding procedure. Close driver's door. Adjust the heating to maximum temperature and adjust the blower to the lowest stage. Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 15 s. The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated. The cooling system bleeding routine ends automatically after approximately 11 minutes. Adjust the filling level in the coolant expansion tank of the low-temperature coolant circuit to100 ml above the maximum mark (1).
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03-29-2024, 05:51 PM | #13 |
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It's been six years (only 15k miles) but its time based, not mileage based for coolant, same as brake fluid. Coolant additives get used up and lose their anti corrosion and anti freeze properties. (brake fluid is hydroscopic, so absorbs moisture, which lowers the boiling point and can cause corrosion of the cylinder bores in the calipers and master cylinder)
I asked the BMW dealer to change the coolant when I had my final free oil and cabin filter change at the four year point, but they said they "tested it" and it was fine. Not sure what test was conducted...but surprised they turned me down. I'm having my coolant changed (G48) in my 2018 M550iX in a few weeks, I just made the appointment with my trusted independent BMW service provider. He will change both the engine coolant and the intercooler circuit as well. Total cost with coolant, labor and all those disposal and shop fees (plus 10.3% WA State tax) comes to around $290. I doubt the dealer is much more, but have had a mixed experience with them. |
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