Dynos aren't like atomic clocks. They're not really standardised and Each manufacturer is different and each day (condition) is different which means even an idealised known power output would read different (not to mention the engine itself would respond differently to air temperature, humidity, etc.
Comparing singular point numbers between different Dynos is never appropriate (and even if it was, comparing one number on the entire power curve gives very little information).what Dynos should be used for is comparing with yourself after you've made changes and to look at the entire curve and... This is the one which no one does because it is expensive... To do things which have absolutely nothing to do with peak power like measuring turbo lag (Dynos can do things like hold a constant rpm, so you can be at a particular rpm at low throttle, mash it and measure how quickly the torque/power output reaches it's maximum figure, on an NA car this is effectively how quickly the throttle plate goes from closed to open, on a turbo car it is dependent on how fast the turbo will spool up) which requires multiple runs
Enter wonder how manufacturers of certain performance parts all can claim how a random intake or filter or whatever makes +5% horsepower and it's all "dyno tested"?
Well cars are fickle things, the exact same car on the same day 3 minutes apart might have a couple percentage points in variance. Throw in some fiddling with external cooling fans, running the dyno /car with the garage doors open/closed, etc and you can easily make a sticker look like it makes 5hp.
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0-60 is a shit metric even without the rollout and track prep, tire grip considerations. Firstly, how much do you want to beat on your own car? That launch (if you're doing launch control/brake boosting) is easily the most stress that engine/driveline is ever going to experience. Car magazines don't give a shit about the car and manufacturers will let them do anything (run on prepped tracks, unlimited launch control, stickiest tires, destroy the clutchesetc) because a 0.1s better time means more cars sold.
So comparing with car magazines / YouTubers / dragy 0-60 numbers from idiots in the Internet who don't care about their cars is just silly.
That doesn't mean comparing acceleration figures aren't useful. But you should aim to use a figure which is least affected by those things mentioned above. That's why the 100-200kph metric is coming more into popularity, it's less stressful, by 100kph most cars are not grip limited, and a bunch of other reasons.
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Unfortunately none of your current mods make any power.
Intake mods on a b48/46 CAN'T make power because the intake isn't the bottle neck. We share filter boxes and to a large extent the post turbo plumbing with the b58 engine so unless you're actually making north of 400hp ICE power alone, the intake isn't really restricting much of anything.
The charge pipe is outright unnecessary unless you're planning on using it for methanol injection
Coil packs are responsible for turning your low voltage from battery/alternator into the high voltage necessary for the spark plug to make a spark. Generally the more boost/compression ratio you run, the higher voltage you'd want. A misfire occurs when the spark doesn't occur "as planned". A "better" coil can't make any more power than a crappier coil unless you're having ignition related issues which the "better" coil is resolving.
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I have a b48 WhatsApp group which is a mix of guys with jb4/bm3/mhd so you can join if you want, just send me a pm
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Originally Posted by Slo G30
Whoa......ok first off thank you so much for unpacking all of that for me. I truly appreciate you helping me understand how all of this works. I'm going to keep this somewhere safe for future reference 
I legitimately did not know that dynos, tuning software power gain numbers, 0-60 times, weight-based metrics, and general information on the internet could be unreliable. I also had no idea you shouldn't really be adding torques.  . Thanks for clearing that up as well.
I should mention that I do have upgraded coil packs from Dinan (idk what they do but they look cooler), a FTP charge and intake pipe, and a "hot" air intake from Burger Motorsports. I don't have a upgraded downpipe yet (though working towards getting an AA one possibly within the next year).
And yes, I do want to chase the numbers, but I also don't want to chase the numbers. I'm just looking for my car to have plenty of power in normal driving, but I can also hoon around if need be and actually use 100% of its power without too much to worry about, such as losing complete control. My car pulls hard enough as is, and I don't really need it making more than what it is making currently...although an extra 20-30hp wouldnt hurt.. I'm happy with it 
I feel like I'm doing you a disservice by not going over every single point you covered in your reply to mine, but I can assure you I read over everything, and I now have a much better understanding of what to do and what not to do when it comes to the large and undeniably vast world of tuning.
I definitely know who to come to the next time I have questions 
Thanks agaaaain |