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Originally Posted by Knifeedge2k1
Dynos aren't like atomic clocks. They're not really standardised and Each manufacturer is different and each day (condition) is different which means even an idealised known power output would read different (not to mention the engine itself would respond differently to air temperature, humidity, etc.
Comparing singular point numbers between different Dynos is never appropriate (and even if it was, comparing one number on the entire power curve gives very little information).what Dynos should be used for is comparing with yourself after you've made changes and to look at the entire curve and... This is the one which no one does because it is expensive... To do things which have absolutely nothing to do with peak power like measuring turbo lag (Dynos can do things like hold a constant rpm, so you can be at a particular rpm at low throttle, mash it and measure how quickly the torque/power output reaches it's maximum figure, on an NA car this is effectively how quickly the throttle plate goes from closed to open, on a turbo car it is dependent on how fast the turbo will spool up) which requires multiple runs
Enter wonder how manufacturers of certain performance parts all can claim how a random intake or filter or whatever makes +5% horsepower and it's all "dyno tested"?
Well cars are fickle things, the exact same car on the same day 3 minutes apart might have a couple percentage points in variance. Throw in some fiddling with external cooling fans, running the dyno /car with the garage doors open/closed, etc and you can easily make a sticker look like it makes 5hp.
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0-60 is a shit metric even without the rollout and track prep, tire grip considerations. Firstly, how much do you want to beat on your own car? That launch (if you're doing launch control/brake boosting) is easily the most stress that engine/driveline is ever going to experience. Car magazines don't give a shit about the car and manufacturers will let them do anything (run on prepped tracks, unlimited launch control, stickiest tires, destroy the clutchesetc) because a 0.1s better time means more cars sold.
So comparing with car magazines / YouTubers / dragy 0-60 numbers from idiots in the Internet who don't care about their cars is just silly.
That doesn't mean comparing acceleration figures aren't useful. But you should aim to use a figure which is least affected by those things mentioned above. That's why the 100-200kph metric is coming more into popularity, it's less stressful, by 100kph most cars are not grip limited, and a bunch of other reasons.
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Unfortunately none of your current mods make any power.
Intake mods on a b48/46 CAN'T make power because the intake isn't the bottle neck. We share filter boxes and to a large extent the post turbo plumbing with the b58 engine so unless you're actually making north of 400hp ICE power alone, the intake isn't really restricting much of anything.
The charge pipe is outright unnecessary unless you're planning on using it for methanol injection
Coil packs are responsible for turning your low voltage from battery/alternator into the high voltage necessary for the spark plug to make a spark. Generally the more boost/compression ratio you run, the higher voltage you'd want. A misfire occurs when the spark doesn't occur "as planned". A "better" coil can't make any more power than a crappier coil unless you're having ignition related issues which the "better" coil is resolving.
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I have a b48 WhatsApp group which is a mix of guys with jb4/bm3/mhd so you can join if you want, just send me a pm
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Thanks for that clarification on dynos and the unrealiableness of 0-60s...that definitely cleared things up on my end.
And ok...so my intake isn't doing anything and neither is my charge pipe...cool......I'll admit it does sound better because I can hear the air whooshing through the intake into the turbo and I can hear the turbo flutter when I let off the gas (although correct me if I'm wrong...turbo flutter will lead to premature wear and tear on the turbo and if you were making a lot of PSI from a bigger turbo, you would want a BOV to help relieve that pressure.(not sure how necessary a BOV is on my current setup)).
I'm going to admit....I only bought the charge pipe and intake pipe because FTP Motorsports claimed an increase of 15HP.........and I was like...Hmm ok, it might do something. My butt dyno felt something but that might've just me being excited over how much extra noise my car was making (My dad said it sounds like a vacuum cleaner, but I love how it sounds)
I'll definitely send you a PM as soon as I get a chance to...thanks for the invite
