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Originally Posted by DukeofAlexandria
Just carry a $20 scanner in the trunk. I'm highly bias against that shitty app Carly, but that's for another time...
Throttle actuators would be my first and probably only bet. You're well over the sweet spot of actuators going bad and it's probably about time for those.
Obviously won't be able to fully diagnose with ready OBD code, but plan on buying 2 new actuators - when one goes, the other is right behind it.
Also - as long as the battery was OEM or OEM-like replacement, usually you don't have to code. Lots of talk about this on the forums and re-coding usually only applies if the battery is NOT OEM replacement - same AH rating but different type or changing from a wet cell to an AGM, etc.
Even without the coding completed, this would cause the battery to discharge in a shorter time and USUALLY not produce anything like what you are stating.
Read the codes, see what you get, good luck!
-M
P.S. - My bet is on throttle actuators - make your bets boys and girls!
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The proper procedure for battery replacement is to program the replacement, regardless of whether it is OEM or not.
The replacement programming resets the histogram used in evaluating the charging system. Coding the battery is only needed in the event of an amp hour or type change, and is mutually exclusive from the replacement registration.
The OPs issue is likely fluid contamination on the sensor or wiring, or a faulty sensor. It could even be a birds nest hiding under there.... yes, this actually happened to one of our customers.