[justinbleach]

Anyone replaced the alternator belt in a 2021 540i, or really just a G30 with B58?

I'm getting confused by some ISTA instructions that involved a couple bolts around the struts I have to remove. Not sure if I absolutely need to replace what's called a "helicoil" insert once I remove a torx screw from one end.

Also looking for any tips or tricks around getting to the belt as I know once I get to it removing and replacing should be a snap (holding the tensioner in place with an allen key etc).

[zvery777]

Originally Posted by justinbleach

Anyone replaced the alternator belt in a 2021 540i, or really just a G30 with B58?

I'm getting confused by some ISTA instructions that involved a couple bolts around the struts I have to remove. Not sure if I absolutely need to replace what's called a "helicoil" insert once I remove a torx screw from one end.

Also looking for any tips or tricks around getting to the belt as I know once I get to it removing and replacing should be a snap (holding the tensioner in place with an allen key etc).

I did it on my F10 and it was pretty straightforward following ista directions. There were quite a few things to remove from the front of the engine bay along with the fan, the belt and tensioners were easy to access after that. Good luck!

[justinbleach]

Originally Posted by zvery777

I did it on my F10 and it was pretty straightforward following ista directions. There were quite a few things to remove from the front of the engine bay along with the fan, the belt and tensioners were easy to access after that. Good luck!

Ok that's good to know as I'll be following the ISTA directions as well and the directions include all the things you mentioned. It does call for replacing a few bolts that hold front struts on...

[zvery777]

Originally Posted by justinbleach

Ok that's good to know as I'll be following the ISTA directions as well and the directions include all the things you mentioned. It does call for replacing a few bolts that hold front struts on...

Yes, most bolts would have to be replaced due to them needing to be angle torqued.

[ezaircon4jc]

Are you talking replacing the alternator or serpentine belt? There is a massive difference in involvement.

[justinbleach]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Are you talking replacing the alternator or serpentine belt? There is a massive difference in involvement.

The belt. Like you I would just call it the serpentine belt but in ISTA the way you find the instructions for replacing the belt is by referring to it as the "alternator belt".

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by justinbleach

The belt. Like you I would just call it the serpentine belt but in ISTA the way you find the instructions for replacing the belt is by referring to it as the "alternator belt".

I hope this helps. For some reason the pictures didn't copy...

Home / BMW G30 540i Sedan / Repair Manuals and Technical Data / 11 Engine / 11 28 Drive belt with tensioning and deflecting element /
11 28 010 Replacing drive belt for alternator
Preliminary Work
1 – Removing the cover on the left and right in the top engine compartment
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
NOTICE
Description is for left component only. Procedure on the right side is identical.
▶ Removing the cover in the engine compartment on top
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-044-57
Loosen the seal (1) in the area of the cover (2).
Loosen the expanding rivets (3).
Guide out and remove the cover (2) in the area (4).
2 – Removing left and right front-end strut
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
NOTICE
Description is for left component only. Procedure on the right side is identical.
▶ Removing the front-end strut
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-049-51
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
RISK OF DAMAGE
Use of an incorrect tool (impact screwdriver) to loosen and tighten the screws.
Damaged thread.
Only use a standard tool (e.g., reversible ratchet) to loosen or tighten the screw.
Loosen screws (1) and (2).
Remove the front-end strut (3).
3 – Remove front cross connection
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-051-13
Loosen screws (1).
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-051-14
Detach the Bowden cable (1).
Feed out cross connection (2) with brackets (3) and remove.
4 – Remove the rear top cross connection
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-051-16
Loosen screws (1) and (2).
Guide the cross connection (3) out in the direction of the arrow.
5 – Removing the fan cowl
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-WARNING
WARNING
Hot surfaces.
Risk of burning!
Perform all work only on components that have cooled down.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-006-67
Unlock and loosen the clamps (1).
Feed out coolant line (2) and place to one side.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-020-06
If fitted:
Release the coolant line (1) below at the fan cowl from the clamps and place it to the side.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-006-68
Unlock and loosen connector (1).
Loosen screws (2).
Guide out fan cowl (3) in direction of arrow and remove.
▶ For follow-up works on the engine: Install guard for cooler fins
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
RISK OF DAMAGE
Careless handling of tools and sharp-edged components.
Scratch, surface damage.
Protect working area.
Handle tools and components carefully.
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
NOTICE
Schematic diagram is for example purposes. Some parts may differ in certain details.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-043-60
Install the guard (1).
NotePackaging made from corrugated cardboard with a thickness of at least 3 mm can be used as protection (if necessary, cut to the required size).
Main Work
6 – Removing the drive belt for alternator
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-CAUTION
CAUTION
Spring preload.
Danger of injury!
The use of the specified special tool (tool) is mandatory.
The described steps must be carried out properly.
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-CAUTION
CAUTION
Component with preload.
Danger of injury!
Reduce preload as far as possible before disassembly. Relieve component.
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-INFO
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
If the drive belt is reused: Mark direction of rotation and reinstall drive belt in same direction of rotation.
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-INFO
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
The drive belt must be replaced if contaminated with coolant- and oil residues.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-11-023-24
Increase the preload on the belt tensioner in the direction of arrow.
Secure the belt tensioner with the special tool 0 496 268 (11 0 390).
Remove the drive belt for the alternator (1).
7 – Installing the drive belt for alternator
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-INFO
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
If the drive belt is reused: Mark direction of rotation and reinstall drive belt in same direction of rotation.
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-INFO
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
The drive belt must be replaced if contaminated with coolant- and oil residues.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-11-023-24
Position the drive belt for alternator (1) on the ancillary components.
Increase preload on belt tensioner.
Remove special tool 0 496 268 (11 0 390) from belt tensioner.
Postprocesses
8 – Installing the fan cowl
▶ Remove guard for cooler fins
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
NOTICE
Schematic diagram is for example purposes. Some parts may differ in certain details.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-043-60
Remove the guard (1).
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-006-69
Feed in and install the fan cowl (3) in the direction of the arrow.
Tighten the screws (2).
Fan cowl on radiator
TS6x20
6Nm
Connect and lock the connector (1).
The connector (1) must engage audibly.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-020-06
If fitted:
Fasten the coolant line (1) below at the fan cowl with the clamps.
GRA-PIX-GRRB-17-006-67
Feed in and install coolant line (2).
Lock clamps (1).
The clamps (1) must engage audibly.
9 – Install the rear top cross connection
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-051-17
Guide the cross connection (3) in from the rear in the direction of arrow.
Tighten down screws (1) and (2).
Top rear cross connection
Torx screw M8x30
Tightening torque
19Nm
Hexagon screw M8x20
Tightening torque
19Nm
10 – Install front cross connection
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-051-14
Feed in cross connection (2) with brackets (3).
Attach the Bowden cable (1).
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-051-13
Tighten the screws (1).
Front cross connection
Screw
Tightening torque
11,8Nm
11 – Installing front-end strut on left and right
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
NOTICE
Description is for left component only. Procedure on the right side is identical.
Renew screws.
Parts: Screw
Parts: Screw
▶ Installing the front-end strut
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-049-51
Install the front-end strut (3).
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
RISK OF DAMAGE
Use of an incorrect tool (impact screwdriver) to loosen and tighten the screws.
Damaged thread.
Only use a standard tool (e.g., reversible ratchet) to loosen or tighten the screw.
Clean the thread on strut tower.
Renew the screw (1).
Parts: Screw
Tighten screw (1).
Front-end strut to cross connection
Hexagon bolt
Renew screw.

Joining torque
28Nm
Angle of rotation
90°
Renew the screw (2).
Parts: Screw
Tighten screw (2).
Front-end strut/strut brace
Screw
Renew screw.

Joining torque
56Nm
Angle of rotation
90°
Repair the damaged threads on the strut tower with a Helicoil insert.
Expendable materials
Helicoil thread insert
M10x30mm
07129909659

12 – Installing the cover on the left and right in the top engine compartment
GRA-SYM-GRCI0000-10-NOTICE
NOTICE
Description is for left component only. Procedure on the right side is identical.
▶ Installing the cover in the engine compartment on top
GRA-PIX-GRRB-51-044-57
Insert the cover (2) in the area (4).
Mount expanding rivets (3).
Mount seal (1) on cover (2).
Additional Information
Overview of Tightening Torques
Used in step8
Fan cowl on radiator
TS6x20
6Nm
Used in step9
Top rear cross connection
Torx screw M8x30
Tightening torque
19Nm
Hexagon screw M8x20
Tightening torque
19Nm
Used in step10
Front cross connection
Screw
Tightening torque
11,8Nm
Used in step11
Front-end strut to cross connection
Hexagon bolt
Renew screw.

Joining torque
28Nm
Angle of rotation
90°
Used in step11
Front-end strut/strut brace
Screw
Renew screw.

Joining torque
56Nm
Angle of rotation
90°
Overview of Special Tools
0 496 268 (11 0 390)
Pin
Used in step67
EGR-EGR-GRSW1103-90
Common
Usage (Roll pin) For securing new tensioning pulley (poly-V belt)
Included in the tool or work
Storage location B24, C24
Replaced by
In connection with
SI-Number 01 15 07 (390)

[justinbleach]

Originally Posted by zvery777

Yes, most bolts would have to be replaced due to them needing to be angle torqued.

I couldn't find replacement bolts using realoem.com. I ordered what looked like the correct ones but they weren't.

I went to the dealership parts department and they also couldn't find the right bolts for the engine bay sway/strut bars on each side. So I have reused the bolts for now.

I plan on taking the car in to have the tensioner replaced since it's got a little shimmy in it. I don't feel like going through the hassle of trying to get the fan shroud out again. There were a few coolant pipes whose clips were impossible to remove so I worked around the fan shroud in a slightly tighter space.

Additionally ISTA did not mention taking off the charge-pipe which sits RIGHT above the tensioner and you cannot put the tensioner metal bar that holds the tensioner in place into the hole without that charge-pipe (at the least) held out the way which is what I did. Got my son to hold it up (too many other clips and pipes connected to it to remove it).

Just spend 3 hours replacing the belt (compared to 30 mins on my wife's 2016 X3). If you don't get the belt on their exactly right up against the back of the pulleys it can start to move off. I had to replace the old belt just to see what I was doing wrong to notice this. And I had thought I had triple checked the fit. It's on their perfect now.

I'm having second thoughts on this car. Up until now I've sung its praises but I can see why you either love or hate BMW.

[zvery777]

Originally Posted by justinbleach

I couldn't find replacement bolts using realoem.com. I ordered what looked like the correct ones but they weren't.

I went to the dealership parts department and they also couldn't find the right bolts for the engine bay sway/strut bars on each side. So I have reused the bolts for now.

I plan on taking the car in to have the tensioner replaced since it's got a little shimmy in it. I don't feel like going through the hassle of trying to get the fan shroud out again. There were a few coolant pipes whose clips were impossible to remove so I worked around the fan shroud in a slightly tighter space.

Additionally ISTA did not mention taking off the charge-pipe which sits RIGHT above the tensioner and you cannot put the tensioner metal bar that holds the tensioner in place into the hole without that charge-pipe (at the least) held out the way which is what I did. Got my son to hold it up (too many other clips and pipes connected to it to remove it).

Just spend 3 hours replacing the belt (compared to 30 mins on my wife's 2016 X3). If you don't get the belt on their exactly right up against the back of the pulleys it can start to move off. I had to replace the old belt just to see what I was doing wrong to notice this. And I had thought I had triple checked the fit. It's on their perfect now.

I'm having second thoughts on this car. Up until now I've sung its praises but I can see why you either love or hate BMW.

This sounds a lot worse than it's on the F10. The pulleys came with bolts, can't recall the tensioner. Wonder why BMW decided to make this job a lot harder on the G30. Bummer

[justinbleach]

Originally Posted by zvery777

This sounds a lot worse than it's on the F10. The pulleys came with bolts, can't recall the tensioner. Wonder why BMW decided to make this job a lot harder on the G30. Bummer

Agreed it's strange. Besides spark plugs it was really my first serious journey into the engine bay. I just wasn't confident enough to deal with all the different types of connectors on the hoses. I popped a wire one off a hose and it disappeared into the engine bay. Some of the clips you pull a white tab up and then the connector is supposed to "pop off" and I was putting more force on the connector than I was comfortable with after the wire incident so I decided to stop and just work in the confined space to avoid further $$ mishaps.

Having had a night to sleep on it it's been a great learning experience! Next time it should only take me maybe an hour.

I'll be searching for videos that demonstrate how to remove the various different kinds of BMW hose and electrical connectors safely. This being a 2021 I can only imagine how the plastic will have held up in 10 years!

[zvery777]

Originally Posted by justinbleach

Agreed it's strange. Besides spark plugs it was really my first serious journey into the engine bay. I just wasn't confident enough to deal with all the different types of connectors on the hoses. I popped a wire one off a hose and it disappeared into the engine bay. Some of the clips you pull a white tab up and then the connector is supposed to "pop off" and I was putting more force on the connector than I was comfortable with after the wire incident so I decided to stop and just work in the confined space to avoid further $$ mishaps.

Having had a night to sleep on it it's been a great learning experience! Next time it should only take me maybe an hour.

I'll be searching for videos that demonstrate how to remove the various different kinds of BMW hose and electrical connectors safely. This being a 2021 I can only imagine how the plastic will have held up in 10 years!

I was very anxious to get into the engine bay as well but it's good experience and you will only become more confident. Yes tabs, clips, etc will break and most are inexpensive to replace. Ista is great help and of course YT. I always buy extra clips and screws from CCP Euro whenever I order something, so if something breaks I can replace it.