[YNWA88]

Can I use a standard extension cord and plug the occasional use charging cable into it?

I need to charge my car while it's in the driveway and the included cable isn't long enough.

Thanks in advance!

[LogicalApex]

You can, but as always with extension cords. Be careful to be sure the cord is rated to carry the load and is in good condition. Check it while running as well to be sure it isn’t hot especially by the connections where bends may have harmed the interior wiring.

[YNWA88]

Originally Posted by LogicalApex

You can, but as always with extension cords. Be careful to be sure the cord is rated to carry the load and is in good condition. Check it while running as well to be sure it isn't hot especially by the connections where bends may have harmed the interior wiring.

Might be a dumb question but how do I know what the rated load is for the car? I just want to make sure I know what numbers I'm checking when I buy the extension cord.

[LogicalApex]

Check the Occasional Use charger for the maximum rating it supports.

[YNWA88]

This is the back of the charger. What should I be looking for when purchasing an extension cord today?

[ted99]

The max load for that EVSE is 10 amps--it's the same one I use. Get the shortest cord that will reach and ensure that it is at least 14 ga. wire. Lowes has a good selection of lengths in the 14 ga size. 12 ga is better, but generally unavailable at consumer outlets. The usual extention cords available at wall-mart/target, etc are 16 ga. This is marginal for a 10 amp load at lengths greater than 25'. If you have the skill, buy 12 ga wire of the correct length and make up terminals at both ends.

[YNWA88]

Originally Posted by ted99

The max load for that EVSE is 10 amps--it's the same one I use. Get the shortest cord that will reach and ensure that it is at least 14 ga. wire. Lowes has a good selection of lengths in the 14 ga size. 12 ga is better, but generally unavailable at consumer outlets. The usual extention cords available at wall-mart/target, etc are 16 ga. This is marginal for a 10 amp load at lengths greater than 25'. If you have the skill, buy 12 ga wire of the correct length and make up terminals at both ends.

What does "ga" mean? Apologies for my ignorance.

[SteveinArizona]

Originally Posted by YNWA88

What does "ga" mean? Apologies for my ignorance.

Ted 99 means "gauge". What he implied, but I want to make explicit for you, is that on wire the higher the number, the lower the capacity. So if 14 gauge would work for you, you can also use any gauge number lower than that but not any gauge number higher.

You might consider installing a charging station inside your garage if you have the ability to recharge during the day. On my 2018 530e, it took me something like 8 hours to fully charge the battery pack using the included 110 unit; on a 240 volt 20 amp line, I am getting a full charge from "0" or "---" in 1 hour and 55 minutes. In addition, most of those units come with a long cord (typically 25 feet) so you won't have to mess with nor be concerned about using an extension cord.

[5Pilot]

Remember, too, that you can adjust your charging current in iDrive. With that 10A charger, you have the option of 10A, 7.5A or 6A charging current. Those lower ratings might be something to consider if you can’t get a good quality high current extension cord, or if you notice any of the cord plugs getting unreasonably warm. Of course, the reduced current means longer charging times.

See: My Vehicle - Plan charging/climate control - Charging rate settings. The car comes from the factory set to the lowest setting.

[ted99]

I moved from a place where I had a Level 2 EVSE to a retirement home where a 110v. outlet was the only choice--and I felt lucky to get even that. Fortunately, we drive once a day, at most, and the 10 amp Level 1 EVSE provided with the car has sufficed to give me a 100% charge between uses. So, the Level 1 EVSE CAN be a solution in these times of reduced driving for some.

[SteveinArizona]

Originally Posted by ted99

I moved from a place where I had a Level 2 EVSE to a retirement home where a 110v. outlet was the only choice--and I felt lucky to get even that. Fortunately, we drive once a day, at most, and the 10 amp Level 1 EVSE provided with the car has sufficed to give me a 100% charge between uses. So, the Level 1 EVSE CAN be a solution in these times of reduced driving for some.

I am also retired but make too many trips to golf courses to only charge once a day. Enjoy your retirement.

[Warp Ten]

Originally Posted by ted99

The max load for that EVSE is 10 amps--it's the same one I use. Get the shortest cord that will reach and ensure that it is at least 14 ga. wire. Lowes has a good selection of lengths in the 14 ga size. 12 ga is better, but generally unavailable at consumer outlets. The usual extention cords available at wall-mart/target, etc are 16 ga. This is marginal for a 10 amp load at lengths greater than 25'. If you have the skill, buy 12 ga wire of the correct length and make up terminals at both ends.

Twelve gauge extension cords in varying lengths from 6' to 50' and more are available on Amazon. But if you are using a regular household outlet, remember that if it is a 15 amp circuit, the house wiring could be 14 ga. and if a 20 amp circuit it will be 12 ga. I have always believed you are better off using wire that is a heavier gauge if you can. I know that on an older shop vac its cord (probably 14 ga.) gets warm after running a while. I like to err on the side of caution. A number of electrician friends say they always wire an entire house in 12 ga. even if many circuits will be 15 amps just to be safer and to plan ahead for a homeowner possibly upping a circuit to 20 amps.--Bob

[ted99]

To put the current draw from the Level 1 EVSE is perspective, 10 amps is 1100 watts, or about the same as an iron on high or a space heater. It's close to the practical maximum from the common 15 amp wall outlet in homes. Electrical code prescribes that steady-state draw from an electrical load should be no more than 80% of the breaker size or outlet rating, whichever is less. If a house has been wired with 14 ga. (gauge) wire--which is common for spec built developments--the breaker should be 15 amp and the outlets will be rated for 15 amps. 80% of 15 amps is 12 amps. If a house has 20 amp 110v. breakers, it has probably been wired with 12 ga. wire, but the outlets may still be 15 amp rated. One needs to examine the back of the outlet to determine it's current rating. The "best" outlet to use for a high-current load is a "Hospital Grade" outlet, which has a 20 amp rating and tighter grip on the plug prongs. These are available at Home Depot/Lowes. It used to be that they were always orange colored, but you can now get them in more colors from Amazon. They always have a green triangle on the front of the outlet. It's also easy to get 20 amp "heavy-duty" outlets in the home stores. They will have the higher current rating but not the advanced grounding features and tighter grip of the hospital grade outlets.

On a side note, in the Audio/visual gear forums I participate in, the occasional poster comes up with a question about whether the big dollar fancy power cords are worth it. My reply is that one should invest $20 in a hospital-grade outlet instead--it will actually improve things. A 4' fancy power cord at the end of 50 feet of Romex house wiring cable is unlikely to add any value.

[LogicalApex]

Originally Posted by ted99

To put the current draw from the Level 1 EVSE is perspective, 10 amps is 1100 watts, or about the same as an iron on high or a space heater. It's close to the practical maximum from the common 15 amp wall outlet in homes. Electrical code prescribes that steady-state draw from an electrical load should be no more than 80% of the breaker size or outlet rating, whichever is less. If a house has been wired with 14 ga. (gauge) wire--which is common for spec built developments--the breaker should be 15 amp and the outlets will be rated for 15 amps. 80% of 15 amps is 12 amps. If a house has 20 amp 110v. breakers, it has probably been wired with 12 ga. wire, but the outlets may still be 15 amp rated. One needs to examine the back of the outlet to determine it's current rating. The "best" outlet to use for a high-current load is a "Hospital Grade" outlet, which has a 20 amp rating and tighter grip on the plug prongs. These are available at Home Depot/Lowes. It used to be that they were always orange colored, but you can now get them in more colors from Amazon. They always have a green triangle on the front of the outlet. It's also easy to get 20 amp "heavy-duty" outlets in the home stores. They will have the higher current rating but not the advanced grounding features and tighter grip of the hospital grade outlets.

On a side note, in the Audio/visual gear forums I participate in, the occasional poster comes up with a question about whether the big dollar fancy power cords are worth it. My reply is that one should invest $20 in a hospital-grade outlet instead--it will actually improve things. A 4' fancy power cord at the end of 50 feet of Romex house wiring cable is unlikely to add any value.

You can also spot a 20A outlet by the 20A prong connection. Where one of the prongs is horizontal instead of vertical.

[SteveinArizona]

Originally Posted by LogicalApex

You can also spot a 20A outlet by the 20A prong connection. Where one of the prongs is horizontal instead of vertical.

Attachment 2837842

Here is a listing of the various US types of plugs: