[NGT2]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Any thoughts on this product?

Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid Solutions? I haven't used turtle wax products much in my experience but my dad is a fanatic about keeping his car clean and recently raves about this stuff. Curious if anyone here has tried it or if there are alternatives you may like better. (I still need to research the C2V3 more but that may be similar in concept)

https://www.turtlewax.com/products/h...ating-16-fl-oz

I haven't used any waxes or DIY ceramics. I did have a detailer professionally add a ceramic coating to mine and I'm very happy with it. I used someone that I know, who gave me a good price but probably wasn't super picky on paint correction and did one later and just the paint. I'm satisfied enough that in the future I'd consider paying considerably more for something like a Ceramic Pro product professionally applied by someone that also did a more thorough paint correction.

With a white car, I'd probably be less picky. I still think ceramic is well worth it, I just don't think the super thorough paint correction is as vital, since the majority of imperfections don't show up on white cars. Same for silver.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Any thoughts on this product?

Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid Solutions? I haven't used turtle wax products much in my experience but my dad is a fanatic about keeping his car clean and recently raves about this stuff. Curious if anyone here has tried it or if there are alternatives you may like better. (I still need to research the C2V3 more but that may be similar in concept)

https://www.turtlewax.com/products/h...ating-16-fl-oz

That's junk. There is no such thing as ceramic in a spray bottle. C2V3 is a better choice for a quick crystal coating that will last 3-6 months, but more like 3. It is not a substitute for a professional ceramic coating. Most of us here have done this. It involved a paint correction and a ceramic coat to seal the newly corrected paint in. It's lasts 2-3 years, the lifetime or 5 year claims are bullshit. It will cost you $1,000 to $$1,500 for a quality job. Your car and wheels will clean off like butter. C2V3 is a great topper for a ceramic, but definitely can be used without ceramic.

If you are looking for a quick detailer, this is better than the Turtle Wax stuff.

Meguiar's G200526 Hybrid Ceramic Detailer- 26 oz. https://a.co/d/25sLv7B

This is also pretty good for some protection and beading. Spray it on a rinsed off car still wet and rinse again.

McKee's 37 MKCS-160 Hydro Blue PRO SiO2 Spray & Rinse Ceramic Coating & Top Coat Sealer for High Gloss https://a.co/d/0z60wba

I don't use either of this stuff anymore, but I did before I discovered C2V3 and before the professional ceramic. It's a matter of how much you want to dive into high end products. This includes using the right cloths which is Korean microfiber.

I told you, I'm a bad influence.

[NGT2]

Originally Posted by Joe-BMW33

That's junk. There is no such thing as ceramic in a spray bottle. C2V3 is a better choice for a quick crystal coating that will last 3-6 months, but more like 3. It is not a substitute for a professional ceramic coating. Most of us here have done this. It involved a paint correction and a ceramic coat to seal the newly corrected paint in. It's lasts 2-3 years, the lifetime or 5 year claims are bullshit. It will cost you $1,000 to $$1,500 for a quality job. Your car and wheels will clean off like butter. C2V3 is a great topper for a ceramic, but definitely can be used without ceramic.

If you are looking for a quick detailer, this is better than the Turtle Wax stuff.

Meguiar's G200526 Hybrid Ceramic Detailer- 26 oz. https://a.co/d/25sLv7B

This is also pretty good for some protection and beading. Spray it on a rinsed off car still wet and rinse again.

McKee's 37 MKCS-160 Hydro Blue PRO SiO2 Spray & Rinse Ceramic Coating & Top Coat Sealer for High Gloss https://a.co/d/0z60wba

I don't use either of this stuff anymore, but I did before I discovered C2V3 and before the professional ceramic. It's a matter of how much you want to dive into high end products. This includes using the right cloths which is Korean microfiber.

I told you, I'm a bad influence.

Can't believe it took this long for Joe to mention Korean microfiber

(He's right though - The Rag Company has good stuff)

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by NGT2

Can't believe it took this long for Joe to mention Korean microfiber

(He's right though - The Rag Company has good stuff)

I'm trying not to come on too strong with my detailing advice. I don't think it's working 😂

[MCL_24]

Thanks guys - again really appreciate the info. I've typically always used Meguiar's or Mothers products... but I haven't really gone too far into the deep end on detailing products. I have only owned used cars, and as near mint as they may look from 2ft away, there have always been some amount of swirls unfortunately once I've taken ownership.

I would like to get a little more knowledgeable on the ceramic procedure and products that seem to be the new rage. Maybe I just wasn't as familiar with them as I didn't go too crazy with detailing my last car other than just some basics. I will do some research. From what I just quickly read.. professional ceramic coating can amplify swirls/scratches/paint imperfections so that's why paint correction is highly recommended as a first step. If you were to use one of those 'ceramic' quick detailing sprays without any initial paint correction... would it have the same effect (making the bad stuff look worse)? My assumption is no since the sprays aren't true ceramic coating but just curious.

I've always used microfiber cloths but don't think they were specifically Korean... (or a specific Korean brand). I'm interested to read up more on that as well.

[PetieD 7]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Thanks guys - again really appreciate the info. I've typically always used Meguiar's or Mothers products... but I haven't really gone too far into the deep end on detailing products. I have only owned used cars, and as near mint as they may look from 2ft away, there have always been some amount of swirls unfortunately once I've taken ownership.

I would like to get a little more knowledgeable on the ceramic procedure and products that seem to be the new rage. Maybe I just wasn't as familiar with them as I didn't go too crazy with detailing my last car other than just some basics. I will do some research. From what I just quickly read.. professional ceramic coating can amplify swirls/scratches/paint imperfections so that's why paint correction is highly recommended as a first step. If you were to use one of those 'ceramic' quick detailing sprays without any initial paint correction... would it have the same effect (making the bad stuff look worse)? My assumption is no since the sprays aren't true ceramic coating but just curious.

I've always used microfiber cloths but don't think they were specifically Korean... (or a specific Korean brand). I'm interested to read up more on that as well.

I have been using Germany's PolishAngel car detailing products since last year.

Prior to that, I was using Jescar sealant and topped with two coats of Collinite liquid wax (No. 845)...make sure to polish your vehicle beforehand.

For the wheels and the M Sport brake calipers, I ceramic coated them using Kamikaze Stance Rim Coat 3.0 product from Japan.

[NGT2]

Originally Posted by PetieD 7

I have been using Germany's PolishAngel car detailing products since last year.

Prior to that, I was using Jescar sealant and topped with two coats of Collinite liquid wax (No. 845)...make sure to polish your vehicle beforehand.

For the wheels and the M Sport brake calipers, I ceramic coated them using Kamikaze Stance Rm Coat 3.0 product from Japan.

Love those wheels

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Thanks guys - again really appreciate the info. I've typically always used Meguiar's or Mothers products... but I haven't really gone too far into the deep end on detailing products. I have only owned used cars, and as near mint as they may look from 2ft away, there have always been some amount of swirls unfortunately once I've taken ownership.

I would like to get a little more knowledgeable on the ceramic procedure and products that seem to be the new rage. Maybe I just wasn't as familiar with them as I didn't go too crazy with detailing my last car other than just some basics. I will do some research. From what I just quickly read.. professional ceramic coating can amplify swirls/scratches/paint imperfections so that's why paint correction is highly recommended as a first step. If you were to use one of those 'ceramic' quick detailing sprays without any initial paint correction... would it have the same effect (making the bad stuff look worse)? My assumption is no since the sprays aren't true ceramic coating but just curious.

I've always used microfiber cloths but don't think they were specifically Korean... (or a specific Korean brand). I'm interested to read up more on that as well.

You are fine to use any of the products I linked to without a professional ceramic coating.

As you mentioned, used cars get swirls. The darker the car the more pronounced they are visually. But even brand new cars have swirls and need a paint correction from factory.

This is how it works. The swirls, minor scuffs or scratches are in the clear coat. This is the final coating that goes on after the paint. Think about it like plexiglass that clouds and scuffs over time. This is the window into your paint.

A paint correction is a requirement performed prior to any ceramic coating. This nothing but a compounding and polishing with mild abrasives to remove the imperfections. Sometimes it will take a few passes. This is referred to as a multi step paint correction which is nothing but a few passes to get the car down to where everything is gone. The final step is the application of a ceramic coating. There are many different manufacturers these days. Most of the manufacturers require the detailer to be certified to allow them to buy it from them. Ceramic Pro is probably the most well known. I had this done once on another car, but recently went with Kamikaze This is not like applying a wax. A tiny liquid bottle coats a whole car with a small sponge. Most people cost the wheels too. This is called a wheels off ceramic job. Some shops use infrared lights to cure the coating. Once done, the car will look like glass and it will clean off like butter and dry incredibly quickly with less water spots.

Now the twist is maintenance. You don't get this done and go through automatic car washes or all the swirls will come back. You spent all this money on perfection and you need to wash it right or you may as well not do it. Washing it right can be a pain for some people or therapeutic for others.

I'll save what "washing it right" is for episode 2.

[MCL_24]

So just to clarify - I assume I'm also fine to use any of the products you mentioned without any professional paint correction?

Not trying to be redundant but I read a few write ups describing both phases (as well as your post) and wanted to make sure I was being specific.

[NGT2]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

So just to clarify - I assume I'm also fine to use any of the products you mentioned without any professional paint correction?

Not trying to be redundant but I read a few write ups describing both phases (as well as your post) and wanted to make sure I was being specific.

Correct

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

So just to clarify - I assume I'm also fine to use any of the products you mentioned without any professional paint correction?

Not trying to be redundant but I read a few write ups describing both phases (as well as your post) and wanted to make sure I was being specific.

Yes, you are totally fine. Just pick one though. Don't pile one over the other until it wears off.

Do it right with C2V3. That is an actual coating. The rest are more like quick detailers. After your car is clean, you can wipe on and wipe off (different cloths) C2V3 in 30 minutes.

[MCL_24]

I'm pumped to learn more about detailing haha. Not asking you guys to completely type out your entire philosophy on cleaning, etc but 1-2 quick questions for now..

I was recently gifted a battery powered 'power washer.' Not like a big one but something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DE...8;gclsrc=aw.ds

(Not sure if that's the exact mode)

Anyway - I believe it has a canister that's meant to put soap in for washing things. Any shot you guys use anything like this on your cars?

Also, I've heard more and more about touchless washes. Again, don't want you guys to feel obligated to go down the rabbit hole right now… but is there a certain soap/foam I could buy that removes dirt and grind without much manual effort? Not being lazy but thinking that could be better for the paint idk. Just curious if that's even an option for a non-ceramic coated car

[NGT2]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

I'm pumped to learn more about detailing haha. Not asking you guys to completely type out your entire philosophy on cleaning, etc but 1-2 quick questions for now..

I was recently gifted a battery powered 'power washer.' Not like a big one but something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DE...8;gclsrc=aw.ds

(Not sure if that's the exact mode)

Anyway - I believe it has a canister that's meant to put soap in for washing things. Any shot you guys use anything like this on your cars?

Also, I've heard more and more about touchless washes. Again, don't want you guys to feel obligated to go down the rabbit hole right now… but is there a certain soap/foam I could buy that removes dirt and grind without much manual effort? Not being lazy but thinking that could be better for the paint idk. Just curious if that's even an option for a non-ceramic coated car

1 - I think a low pressure electric power washer is great. I have one from Sun Joe. Use the 40 degree spray nozzle.

2 - The full ceramic application will make touchless car washing much easier and more realistic. If this is something you're interested in, I'd find and interview some local detail guys. Figure out which ones seem to really know what they're doing. And find out prices for ceramic. I waited about 5 months or so and used my birthday as an excuse to get it done.

3 - ceramic or not, I would not use the soap dispenser that came on my pressure washer. I use a foam cannon, instead. This will probably be debated by someone, but my detail guy said you don't need two bucket washing if your foam cannon is applying the soap. I still keep a rinse bucket around, though, and do one big section at a time (roof, hood, trunk and then windows, sides and lastly bumpers, lower sides).

4 - drying is as important as anything. Again, if you have the ceramic it's way easier. I use a combination of a cordless blower and a Gauntlet towel from The Rag Co. to dry. The cordless blower is definitely a sign that you're as crazy as Joe and I, but if you look around at enough professional YouTube videos and stuff then you'll see we didn't come up with the idea on our own.

The Gauntlet towels, in my opinion, are incredible. I have one bigger and three smaller ones to use, depending on the job.

The ceramic isn't necessary for any of that. It just makes it harder for dirt to stick, makes it easier to get dirt off, and it is hydrophobic so it makes drying super easy. But it's not required. All the same washing and drying techniques and priorities remain the same.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

I'm pumped to learn more about detailing haha. Not asking you guys to completely type out your entire philosophy on cleaning, etc but 1-2 quick questions for now..

I was recently gifted a battery powered 'power washer.' Not like a big one but something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DE...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

(Not sure if that's the exact mode)

Anyway - I believe it has a canister that's meant to put soap in for washing things. Any shot you guys use anything like this on your cars?

Also, I've heard more and more about touchless washes. Again, don't want you guys to feel obligated to go down the rabbit hole right now… but is there a certain soap/foam I could buy that removes dirt and grind without much manual effort? Not being lazy but thinking that could be better for the paint idk. Just curious if that's even an option for a non-ceramic coated car

Most of your answers are in this thread.

https://g30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1943048

I am not familiar with that power washer, but it's free, give it a shot. Skip the soap dispenser and get an Adams Foam Cannon (Amazon). It will go on the tip of your power washer. That power wash may not work, but they are not expensive. I got a Sun Joe on Amazon for $127. I think they were $99 on Prime Day. Search Amazon for both the washer and the cannon. For soap - Car Pro Reset. Just a pinch will make a lot of foam.

EDIT - I actually took a close look at that B&D washer, I don't think you can put attachments on the end. It also doesn't seem too powerful. I honestly would just get the Sun Joe. They are on sale all the time, I paid $127, but looks like it went back up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[NGT2]

You can use the traditional 2 bucket wash method until you decide to get the pressure washer (which I have a feeling you will, eventually).

Pan the Organizer on YouTube has good videos on properly using the two bucket wash method, as well as a bunch of other great videos.

[Joe-BMW33]

Here is my regimen:

https://g30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=729

[MCL_24]

Thanks for the links! I will definitely read them all through

I did pull out my cordless leaf blower to dry my previous car one time and my wife (and probably neighbors) were like wtf are you doing haha.

I had heard of it being a good way to get a lot of water off so I gave it a shot. It worked fairly well but I was more messing around that being super meticulous at that time. I also was a little hesitant about how much juice I should be giving it.. my blower is fairly powerful although now that I'm typing this out I guess the car faces high wind resistance while driving so it should be fine.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Thanks for the links! I will definitely read them all through

I did pull out my cordless leaf blower to dry my previous car one time and my wife (and probably neighbors) were like wtf are you doing haha.

I had heard of it being a good way to get a lot of water off so I gave it a shot. It worked fairly well but I was more messing around that being super meticulous at that time. I also was a little hesitant about how much juice I should be giving it.. my blower is fairly powerful although now that I'm typing this out I guess the car faces high wind resistance while driving so it should be fine.

With a ceramic coating it will dry in minutes. It will blow right off.

[NGT2]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Thanks for the links! I will definitely read them all through

I did pull out my cordless leaf blower to dry my previous car one time and my wife (and probably neighbors) were like wtf are you doing haha.

I had heard of it being a good way to get a lot of water off so I gave it a shot. It worked fairly well but I was more messing around that being super meticulous at that time. I also was a little hesitant about how much juice I should be giving it.. my blower is fairly powerful although now that I'm typing this out I guess the car faces high wind resistance while driving so it should be fine.

I gave up on my wife and neighbors thinking I'm sane a long time ago!

[MCL_24]

Now that you guys have educated me a ton on exterior detailing... any suggestions for interior cleaning?

My leather is fine (although at some point in the future i'll probably want to clean and potentially condition).

My real question is for the 'touch' surfaces like the buttons and black plastic trim on the dashboard.. as well as the round knob/selector that you use to control the menus/iDrive, etc. These areas leave my fingers feeling a little oily and 'tacky' - kind of hard to describe. A few of the dash and radio buttons feel a little sticky when pressing them too... meaning there isn't a crisp 'click' when pressing them every time. I didn't realize this until I was literally driving home in the car, and my initial thought was the previous owner or a dealership employee spilled something. I know i mentioned a few small spots of sticky gunk on the aluminum trim but that was different. The more I think about it, if someone spilled something... i feel like there would be more signs of that on the trim and other interior pieces. Maybe it's just me trying to be optimistic (the thought of a previous spill makes me cringe).. but I'm starting to wonder if whatever the dealer used to clean the interior got around the buttons and is causing them to stick. Also making the surfaces not feel super clean.

Also.. for this button - should it be more of a mouse click feel or a deeper 'dull' press?

[NGT2]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Now that you guys have educated me a ton on exterior detailing... any suggestions for interior cleaning?

My leather is fine (although at some point in the future i'll probably want to clean and potentially condition).

My real question is for the 'touch' surfaces like the buttons and black plastic trim on the dashboard.. as well as the round knob/selector that you use to control the menus/iDrive, etc. These areas leave my fingers feeling a little oily and 'tacky' - kind of hard to describe. A few of the dash and radio buttons feel a little sticky when pressing them too... meaning there isn't a crisp 'click' when pressing them every time. I didn't realize this until I was literally driving home in the car, and my initial thought was the previous owner or a dealership employee spilled something. I know i mentioned a few small spots of sticky gunk on the aluminum trim but that was different. The more I think about it, if someone spilled something... i feel like there would be more signs of that on the trim and other interior pieces. Maybe it's just me trying to be optimistic (the thought of a previous spill makes me cringe).. but I'm starting to wonder if whatever the dealer used to clean the interior got around the buttons and is causing them to stick. Also making the surfaces not feel super clean.

Also.. for this button - should it be more of a mouse click feel or a deeper 'dull' press?

I use Meguiars interior quick cleaner or interior shine and protect. They've worked well. I keep it clean, so I usually use the shine and protect by itself. Doesn't leave anything greasy and lasts on the dash for a couple weeks or better.

You can also do a first pass with a damp microfiber.

Here's the thing on the black plastic - it gets swirl marks just like paint. Yours probably already has them. Mine does. They can be removed with polish, I just haven't found the time. The tip I got here, that I haven't employed but will this weekend, is to blow these areas before cleaning. I just happen to have an air compressor that my father in law permanently lent us. I got a air gun attachment that I'm going to use to blow most of the dirt off with, then use the Meguiars interior shine and protect like normal.

What leather do you have? If it's Dakota, which I have, I have read there isn't much benefit to conditioning as it is a coated leather. The conditioner won't get through to the actual leather. Nappa leather is higher end and does benefit from conditioning. I have been using Chemical Guys leather cleaner on my seats and steering wheel and it does a good job.

I also dress my seats with Sonax leather dressing. Got that tip from Joe. He recommended it to create a bit of lubrication to cut down on friction sliding in and out over the bolsters. I think it works, but don't know for sure. No science other than I just like it.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by MCL_24

Now that you guys have educated me a ton on exterior detailing... any suggestions for interior cleaning?

My leather is fine (although at some point in the future i'll probably want to clean and potentially condition).

My real question is for the 'touch' surfaces like the buttons and black plastic trim on the dashboard.. as well as the round knob/selector that you use to control the menus/iDrive, etc. These areas leave my fingers feeling a little oily and 'tacky' - kind of hard to describe. A few of the dash and radio buttons feel a little sticky when pressing them too... meaning there isn't a crisp 'click' when pressing them every time. I didn't realize this until I was literally driving home in the car, and my initial thought was the previous owner or a dealership employee spilled something. I know i mentioned a few small spots of sticky gunk on the aluminum trim but that was different. The more I think about it, if someone spilled something... i feel like there would be more signs of that on the trim and other interior pieces. Maybe it's just me trying to be optimistic (the thought of a previous spill makes me cringe).. but I'm starting to wonder if whatever the dealer used to clean the interior got around the buttons and is causing them to stick. Also making the surfaces not feel super clean.

Also.. for this button - should it be more of a mouse click feel or a deeper 'dull' press?

For the interior I use two products. Duragloss Leather and Vinyl Dressing and Distilled Water. Anything leather or vinyl gets the Duragloss and anything glass or wood gets distilled water. I use a really short pile MF cloth to apply the dressing and a special glass cloth I have for the distilled water. That's it. If I ever felt the need to clean my black leather, I would use warm water with a mild detergent.

For your sticky buttons, spray the dash down with distilled water and wipe in and off by pushing the bottoms as you swipe.

You have Dakota Leather. Conditioner won't do much to that.

My trim is Piano Black and as OCD as I am, I don't stress about swirls, smudges or dust too much. I do keep a MF cloth on the passenger seat and am always wiping it down when in traffic with stop and go enabled. It kind of comes with the territory when you pick high gloss piano black. Any swirls are really only noticeable in certain direct light. If they got bad (which they won't given who the owner is), I'd polish it.

My park sensor button is more like a mouse click. There probably was a spill given the area. Start with spraying distilled water liberally around it and pushing it over and over. Then add solvent to the water if it doesn't dissolve the sugar in there. Maybe try a syringe to get in the nooks with some alcohol.

I got something like this as a stocking stuffer and didn't think I would use it, but it has come in handy:

https://www.amazon.com/Camkix-Multi-...a-835161989929