[Doenermann]

Hello everyone, I apologize if this has been discussed before but I didn’t find anything on this particular set of symptoms.

My new (to me) 2018 530e, purchased from an independent dealer, appears to have issues talking to the outside world. I confirmed via multiple calls to BMW assist that my account is active, my car is showing up in the my BMW app, but no updates are received and the date is 12/31/0. The dealer scanned my car Friday, and found nothing wrong, pointing to user error (perhaps, but don’t think so).

I tried unpairing/pairing, but vehicle can’t receive codes so have to call Assist to re-pair.
I pulled fuses (F244 and F32 I believe, whichever two are under the connectivity symbol on the guide - nothing.
The ‘update bmw assist’ is grayed out
Log in times out under ‘authenticating
I pulled the cover under the shark fin and all seems in order there.
SOS button which lights up orange, but no green light comes on no matter how often I press or how long I hold.
Rear right trunk Fusebox - to the bottom left of it in the harness, there a fuse in-line on a yellow and red wire. No idea what for, but fuse is intact.

Could this have been deliberately disabled by the previous owner without throwing any fault codes? Could something have been unplugged or cut without a fault or programmed to hide the fault? I’m having a conversation about it with the shop foreman, but vehicle is factory out of warranty (by mileage) so I want to try and point diag into the right direction.

Thanks in Advance!

[CnSky]

The battery may be gone in the TCB in the headliner below the shark fin?

Did you scan for fault codes?

My 530e had a dead SOS battery when I purchased it.

[Doenermann]

Originally Posted by CnSky

The battery may be gone in the TCB in the headliner below the shark fin?

Did you scan for fault codes?

My 530e had a dead SOS battery when I purchased it.

Thanks! Did not check that yet. I took the car in primarily for a one hour Inspection required to purchase an aftermarket warranty and supposedly there weren’t any fault. However, I assume they did a bare minimum, who knows if they actually bothered to scan a car that had no faults displayed in the idrive.

I have not checked the battery, but will take a look tonight to see what kind it is and if it’s i can just swap out proactively.

I read about your car in another thread. I had an 2010 F2 750 Nine years
ago that had very similar issues which never got resolved and I eventually just sold it (was probably drive shaft for me, never confirmed). Glad you’re making progress on yours!

[CnSky]

This is what the battery looks like it's about 160 USD but usually you get a no sos function fault on the dash so I would be worried the TCB module could be shot as it controls all communications the battery is only for the sos call to work via TCB or the car has no power after a crash. In normal circumstances the car just connects via the sim in the TCB when you have an active account.

You sure the car is originally from the USA? Maybe it has a Canadian sim in it? Not sure how it works over there but all of Europe has a single provider for the sim so you can travel but maybe it's not the same state side.

[CnSky]

On my own car yeah it's a pain but I'm taking one last shot at solving it as many people seem to have the same issue and most have variable dampers.

I also have a drive shaft guibo, CSB, gearbox mount and two engine mounts here beside me as I'm getting some vibrations now and again but nothing like the main issue.

[CnSky]

Actually now that I think of it I added my car to the app and it sent a message to the car which I then picked up to authenticate by inputting to the my BMW app if that hasn't happened for you then the car isnt linked to your account?

[Doenermann]

Originally Posted by CnSky

Actually now that I think of it I added my car to the app and it sent a message to the car which I then picked up to authenticate by inputting to the my BMW app if that hasn't happened for you then the car isnt linked to your account?

Originally Posted by CnSky

On my own car yeah it's a pain but I'm taking one last shot at solving it as many people seem to have the same issue and most have variable dampers.

I also have a drive shaft guibo, CSB, gearbox mount and two engine mounts here beside me as I'm getting some vibrations now and again but nothing like the main issue.

Sounds promising! That's a half new/rebuilt car by the time you're done but hopefully the damper/shock replacement will fix the main issue for you. If only OEMs would value this type of troubleshooting their lack of proper diagnosis and help offset some of the cost.

Come to think of it, my 7 Li had standard rear adjustable dampers, maybe something wasn't quite right there either and bmw has never been diagnose them properly. Who knows…

Originally Posted by CnSky

Actually now that I think of it I added my car to the app and it sent a message to the car which I then picked up to authenticate by inputting to the my BMW app if that hasn't happened for you then the car isnt linked to your account?

According to the carfax report, it's a US car. However, I do believe that something may have been done to deliberately disable coms/location services on this car by the previous owner for privacy reasons. It does not receive those messages when I added the car myself and tried to activate. Supposedly no fault codes (having dealer double check since I already paid for it), so what could disable coms and no codes? De-coding it somehow? SIM removal? Is the SIM accessible so I can check it out?

I'm not even sure location is disabled, Nav works, maybe just coms. Connected drive Menu is very empty but maybe that's just because the car can't connect to anything to see what's available to show.

Thanks!

[CnSky]

Well the NAV runs from its own system so discount that the unit has its own GPS receiver.

I would guess it's either sim car removed or the TCB coding has been manually changed by someone.FYI SIM card removal sis the easy it's has to be solders off the board so I'm leaning towards coding change.

If the battery was gone you should get a fault on the idrive screen.

You need to get a fault code readout first to make sure there is nothing obvious then you can move forward.

There are a few people on here who may be able to do it remotely I had some coding done by a uk guy who just logged into my laptop and took charge installed when he needed and spoke to the car.

Start a subject asking if anyone can help remotely and your happy to pay.

[Doenermann]

I had the vehicle scanned again with multiple tools and no faults were found. However, when sending the telematics module a command to update/ refresh, ET did not phone home and instead threw a fault on the tool stating it couldn't reach services and to contact bmw connected drive for help (did that many times, also after, still all good on their end). Resetting the module didn't fix it either, was tried multiple times.

At this point the dealer wants to update the module (unlikely to do anything), then replace the module, but also cannot guarantee it will help. Next they would look for a physical issue in the harness which is unlikely but possible. Don't know what would happen if that still turned up nothing.

When I was pulling fuses, I did notice one odd thing and wanted ask if this fuse holder on a red with yellow stripe wire is stock. I first assumed it was for a radar detector but it doesn't connect to the fuse box, just loops back towards the the front. Pulling the fuse didn't do anything obvious but I didn't try to drive it yet.

[CnSky]

Same fuse is on mine 5amp

[CnSky]

Id say a model update first followed by replacement will be required.

The sim on the board is integral to the module so I assume if replaced BMW have to assign it to your vehicle. Make sure you ask them how that is done and ensure the process is followed.

I'm wondering is their a coding issue in the module if so then the module update may fix the problem for you.

Fingers crossed.

[Doenermann]

Originally Posted by CnSky

Id say a model update first followed by replacement will be required.

The sim on the board is integral to the module so I assume if replaced BMW have to assign it to your vehicle. Make sure you ask them how that is done and ensure the process is followed.

I'm wondering is their a coding issue in the module if so then the module update may fix the problem for you.

Fingers crossed.

Thank you, that sounds like a plan. I had asked about an update before but was told unless there's a problem warranting a flash to attempt the fix, I'd have to pay for any repairs from bricked modules. Will try to get it in next week and will update here once I know anything.

Good to know about the fuse. Looks out of place, but apparently meant to be there.

[CnSky]

What you were told about bricked modules is BS.

Istep updates are standard policy to fix issues/unlock updated menus and features etc. I get it done on a regular basis.

I think any dealer who takes a working car and follows a standard BMW procedure which results in a module being bricked would be hard pressed to say that was your fault and you have to pay.

Maybe you should try a different dealer.

[Puttix]

Originally Posted by Doenermann

Thank you, that sounds like a plan. I had asked about an update before but was told unless there's a problem warranting a flash to attempt the fix, I'd have to pay for any repairs from bricked modules. Will try to get it in next week and will update here once I know anything.

Good to know about the fuse. Looks out of place, but apparently meant to be there.

Hey mate, I have precisely the same issue with my 2017 G30, and BMW have not been much help. Their next course of action is to try swapping out the antenna, the TCU or the head unit itself. All of which are incredibly expensive options with no guarantee of success. Did you manage to get to the bottom of it? Cheers.

[Doenermann]

Originally Posted by Puttix

Hey mate, I have precisely the same issue with my 2017 G30, and BMW have not been much help. Their next course of action is to try swapping out the antenna, the TCU or the head unit itself. All of which are incredibly expensive options with no guarantee of success. Did you manage to get to the bottom of it? Cheers.

Sorry to hear! Long time ago now for me but yes it did get fixed with multiple flash or reprogram attempts by the dealership (thankfully they only charged for two hours as they were also interested in figuring it out), and finally after the second attempt it came back alive and happy as if nothing ever happened. No new hardware in my case, but the faults were odd as there weren’t any hardware faults, only communication of memory serves me right. They suspected that someone went out of their way to corrupt the module in a way where it looks to be present doesn’t throw fault codes, presumably to avoid tracking.

[Puttix]

Originally Posted by Doenermann

Sorry to hear! Long time ago now for me but yes it did get fixed with multiple flash or reprogram attempts by the dealership (thankfully they only charged for two hours as they were also interested in figuring it out), and finally after the second attempt it came back alive and happy as if nothing ever happened. No new hardware in my case, but the faults were odd as there weren’t any hardware faults, only communication of memory serves me right. They suspected that someone went out of their way to corrupt the module in a way where it looks to be present doesn’t throw fault codes, presumably to avoid tracking.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I will pass this onto my dealer. They have been pretty good so far, hopefully they can make something of this before I have to resort to replacing the TCU...