[WretchedRefuse]

I used the Technic Add-a-sub harness with the JL Audio 10W3 sub and RD500/1 amp, which includes a configurable LPF and volume control. I dialed the LPF down as low as it goes - I think that's 50 Hz, and used the volume control as a poor man's equalizer to get the right balance with the under-seat woofers. In my judgment it sounds great without a need for further DSP, although I'm sure a purist would want to go the extra mile.

[Sam_M550i]

Originally Posted by WretchedRefuse

I used the Technic Add-a-sub harness with the JL Audio 10W3 sub and RD500/1 amp, which includes a configurable LPF and volume control. I dialed the LPF down as low as it goes - I think that's 50 Hz, and used the volume control as a poor man's equalizer to get the right balance with the under-seat woofers. In my judgment it sounds great without a need for further DSP, although I'm sure a purist would want to go the extra mile.

I didn't know the JL Audio RD500/1 can handle high level inputs of 40Vac. I know the Audiocontrol amps can.

[WretchedRefuse]

Originally Posted by Sam_M550i

I didn't know the JL Audio RD500/1 can handle high level inputs of 40Vac. I know the Audiocontrol amps can.

Interesting point - The amp advertises "speaker level inputs" although the spec says only up to 8v. I didn't know that the HK amp can deliver 40v, although I've never had a problem with distortion, even at high listening levels.

[choppedliver]

Originally Posted by WretchedRefuse

Interesting point - The amp advertises "speaker level inputs" although the spec says only up to 8v. I didn't know that the HK amp can deliver 40v, although I've never had a problem with distortion, even at high listening levels.

I went for an Audio Control LC4.800 after reading that the HK amp speaker output could be up to 40v. A lot of amps with speaker level input can't handle that in theory. Maybe it's not such a big deal after all.

[Sam_M550i]

Originally Posted by choppedliver

I went for an Audio Control LC4.800 after reading that the HK amp speaker output could be up to 40v. A lot of amps with speaker level input can't handle that in theory. Maybe it's not such a big deal after all.

I am running the ACM 1.300 and trying to figure how how to increase the base output from the amp. The gain is setup using a multi-meter. Basically 300 watts rms X 2 ohms = 600 --> square root of 600 = 24.49 Vac which is what I am mearing on the speaker outputs on the amp and that is how I adjusted the gain. Outside of that I am not sure how to increase the bass on the amp. There is a threshold and level adjustments but that is for Accubass.

[choppedliver]

The ACM 1.300 has a gain control and gain maximised LED. The LC4.800 has similar and I used this to maximise gain without clipping of the input source (about 80% volume at the head unit).

[RonronEG]

Originally Posted by Sam_M550i

I am running the ACM 1.300 and trying to figure how how to increase the base output from the amp. The gain is setup using a multi-meter. Basically 300 watts rms X 2 ohms = 600 --> square root of 600 = 24.49 Vac which is what I am mearing on the speaker outputs on the amp and that is how I adjusted the gain. Outside of that I am not sure how to increase the bass on the amp. There is a threshold and level adjustments but that is for Accubass.

What did you use as your test tone?

[Sam_M550i]

Originally Posted by RonronEG

What did you use as your test tone?

I used an 80hz tone and then 50hz tone.

[RonronEG]

Try setting the gains with a 40hz tone at -3db or even -5db.

Edit:

Try using the gain light if your amp has a feature like that- it's not bad. Set a friends gains real quick using a similar feature on an RF amp and the results were much improved over the original output. Not a huge fan of the multimeter method and even though Steve Meade's shop is literally right around the corner, I can't convince myself to buy a DD1.

[Sam_M550i]

Originally Posted by RonronEG

Try setting the gains with a 40hz tone at -3db or even -5db.

Edit:

Try using the gain light if your amp has a feature like that- it's not bad. Set a friends gains real quick using a similar feature on an RF amp and the results were much improved over the original output. Not a huge fan of the multimeter method and even though Steve Meade's shop is literally right around the corner, I can't convince myself to buy a DD1.

I'll give it a shot with the 40hz. The Audiocontrol does have an LED for gain so I will take a look. I should probably turn off Accubass also as the B&W from my testing isn't showing bass roll off. I came to that conclusion by putting a meter on the technic harness for the subwoofer output from the B&W amp and cranking the volume past 3/4 and the voltage never drops.

[Sam_M550i]

Originally Posted by choppedliver

The ACM 1.300 has a gain control and gain maximised LED. The LC4.800 has similar and I used this to maximise gain without clipping of the input source (about 80% volume at the head unit).

What are your Accubass settings?

[Sam_M550i]

JL Audio 10W3v3-2 paired to Audiocontrol ACM 1.300 mounted under the subwoofer enclosure.

[choppedliver]

Looks good.

[Shane_ATX]

Has anyone in this thread experienced a “Battery Managment Error”?

I have suspicions that my rd/1500 is pulling too much power and is causing this. I got back from a long drive yesterday (5hrs) and still got the error this morning on a short drive. Didn’t use amp at all during the drive in hopes to recharge battery. I connected to BimmerLink (just got the obd adapter today) and it showed battery was at 80%.

Separately, other posts show that connecting things directly to the battery (such as trickle chargers) in the trunk can cause error messages to occur. Further, I work from home and drive short distances so the battery doesn’t get “optimal” charging time.

Continuing to test and monitor the next few days but just wanted some feedback.

Edit: sharing my setup :-)

[BMW_E_F_G]

Originally Posted by Shane_ATX

Has anyone in this thread experienced a “Battery Managment Error”?

I have suspicions that my rd/1500 is pulling too much power and is causing this. I got back from a long drive yesterday (5hrs) and still got the error this morning on a short drive. Didn’t use amp at all during the drive in hopes to recharge battery. I connected to BimmerLink (just got the obd adapter today) and it showed battery was at 80%.

Separately, other posts show that connecting things directly to the battery (such as trickle chargers) in the trunk can cause error messages to occur. Further, I work from home and drive short distances so the battery doesn’t get “optimal” charging time.

Continuing to test and monitor the next few days but just wanted some feedback.

Edit: sharing my setup :-)

Hi mate,

On the negative side of your battery clamp is a IBS integrated in to it. This sensor goes bad and that might be your problem.

Check it out!

[Shane_ATX]

Originally Posted by BMW_E_F_G

Hi mate,

On the negative side of your battery clamp is a IBS integrated in to it. This sensor goes bad and that might be your problem.

Check it out!

Thank you for the suggestion! BMW conducted an energy diagnostic and concluded that the battery was faulty (undervoltage during operation and after charging it). Also confirmed the radar/amp were not pulling any power while vehicle was off. Guess I just got a faulty battery upon delivery. Replaced under warranty without question.

[jag81]

Originally Posted by Sam_M550i

JL Audio 10W3v3-2 paired to Audiocontrol ACM 1.300 mounted under the subwoofer enclosure.

great install, this is the finished look that i'm after. got a link to the sub ensclosure?

[Sam_M550i]

Originally Posted by jag81

great install, this is the finished look that i'm after. got a link to the sub ensclosure?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15393906156...Bk9SR6jzyt6fYw