03-22-2019, 02:19 AM | #23 | |
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I now experience the dreaded DAB radio drop out / loss of distant stations which instantly return when I switch off the dashcam. If the dashcam is working but not plugged into the feed down to F59, again the DAB stations return. I have tried a ferrite clamp on the cable from the dashcam but it made no difference. Has anyone an other suggestions please? Last edited by gilbo2; 03-22-2019 at 03:58 AM.. |
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03-22-2019, 08:12 AM | #24 | ||
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05-07-2019, 03:20 PM | #25 | ||
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Or am I completely overthinking the park monitoring and should just rely on blackvues detection during a break in and have it wired exactly like you have it? I was concerned about people keying the car which I don't think would activate the motion sensor Thanks in advance if you can help! |
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05-07-2019, 04:26 PM | #26 | |||
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05-10-2019, 02:37 AM | #27 |
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Guys, just one alternative, as BMW is selling the "Advanced car eye" and it has a retrofit guide which can be used for aftermarket cameras as well.
BMW Advanced Car eye 2.0 Installation manual |
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05-10-2019, 02:40 AM | #28 | |
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06-03-2019, 09:07 AM | #30 | |
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Hey everyone, So I really appreciate this DIY guide and used it for my dashcam installation. Great news for anyone looking for a dual dash cam but restricted by the rear power sun shade: I got the Thinkware F800 Pro dual dashcam and I also have the power rear sunshade - because of it's small form factor the rear camera CAN be installed without interfering with the motion of the rear sunshade! Last edited by RLSinCO; 06-04-2019 at 08:32 AM.. |
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06-04-2019, 01:46 PM | #31 | |
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06-09-2019, 07:48 PM | #32 | |
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11-06-2019, 08:09 AM | #33 |
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Just wanted to post to say many thanks for this writeup and info.
With the help of the info here, last night I installed a uniden R7 to the right of my rearview mirror. I ran the wire to the driver's side down the pillar so that I could have the smart wire box to quickly mute false readings. I had to splice the included wire with a longer wire to bring it back to the right side to the fuse box per the instructions above. Worked like a charm. Thanks again!! |
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12-11-2019, 12:43 PM | #34 |
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Hey Everyone!
FYI: I added the Escort ZW5 laser shifter with two additional rear sensors to my M550i yesterday. I already had the Max 360c hardwired to F50 which is the cigarette lighter circuit. Since the ZW5 requires it's own power cord to the Max 360c, I ran another direct wire kit to F59 for my M1 DashCam which previously powered the detector. I can confirm the both F50 and F59 (unused switched) are both switched power and power down at the same time when the vehicle completes the shutdown cycle. The ZW5 power cable includes the wireless module which communicates wirelessly to the sensor box under the hood, so the dashcam had to be powered separately. |
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04-08-2020, 02:46 AM | #35 |
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Thinking of buying a Viofo, but not sure where to mount it that won't disturb my field of vision or the sensors behind the rearview mirror. Where did you mount yours?
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08-26-2020, 09:35 PM | #37 | |
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08-28-2020, 08:31 PM | #38 |
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I thought I'd add some information that I was struggling to find after a lot of unsuccessful searching but ended up having to figure it out myself.
I have a 2019 M550i G30, I picked up a blackvue DR900S-2CH and a Power Magic Pro as well as the fuse harness kit from the dashcam store. I've determined that if you want park mode, you CANNOT wire to the front passenger fuse box, it has no BATT+ (yellow cable) supply that stays on, the entire fuse box shuts off after 5 minutes... You can only use this box if you don't want park mode. I thought the rear fuse box was going to be a big pain, but it wasn't difficult at all, actually it's easier than front box since there's more room and you don't have to be upside-down and contorted to work on the box. I used F273 for my ACC+ which turns off after 5 minutes. I used F230 for my always-on BATT+ line. There's also a ground point right there that takes 10mm socket. I found it easiest to completely remove the screw, then strip the ground wire for 2 inches, wrap it around the screw, then put it back together and tighten. there's also a great spot in the right to stick the magic power box, I then bundled everything up, used electrical tape to keep it together, as well as tape the cigarette adapter to the magic pro end so there's no chance of it slipping out (it's not super-tight on it's own). there's plenty of room to put this wire bundle to the left and below the fuse box and I was back together in short-time. I ran power along passenger side and the rear camera cable on drivers side - took all of 20 minutes to cleanly route both, the included tool was perfect. there's lots of room for one cable, but 2 cables is a bit much on the same side. So the short of it - If you want park mode, save yourself an hour of screwing around with the front box or searching the web - it doesn't work. just go straight to the rear fuse panel. One other thing - I expected the Power Magic pro's light to turn on at some point while I was wiring things up, it DOES NOT!. I wasted a lot of time and thought my box was bad. you figure with electric going to the box, it should light up right? NOPE! it only lights up after everything is connected and then you turn the car on for the first time... there must be something in the box that kills it until it gets power on both BATT+ & ACC+ and then from there on out the LED works fine all the time. A second thought - the rear fuse panel has a paper card folded up there showing all your fuses.. if you need a new one of those go to https://www.bmw.com/fusecard to download the one specifically for your car. just plug your VIN in Final thought - the fuse panel has no spare empty fuse spots. you'll see what appears to be empty slots, but if you look closer you can't actually put a fuse there since it's missing the underlying fuse receptacle on the board. you must use a piggyback fuse (or whatever they are called) Last edited by kring; 08-28-2020 at 08:45 PM.. |
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01-12-2021, 03:56 PM | #39 |
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The post that keeps on giving!
I have wired my THiEYE Dashcam (link below) into my G30 using OP information above. Thank YOU. The F59 was spot on and the Pillar removal and lower dash panels were easy enough to work around. I was stumped at first, removing panels below glove box. There is a pop fastener you need to pop horizontally toward door prior to moving away from firewall. Then you can slide the base panel out from sliders that hold it. Another couple experience pointers. When installing Airbag pillar cover, the pop fasteners slide off cover. To line everything up, get pop fasteners on cover and look through windshield to... ‘find the holes’. Also. I found door gasket really stubborn. I fed power wire into chase where base of pillar cover and dash meet. With flashlight and measured length, I got lucky and wire was visible while I was inverted (upside down) under dash and could pull wire through with needle nose pliers. (That was 🍺 moment). After living through head-on collision.... I value dashcams. I have had several traffic situations and pedestrian cases that were videos I could go back to if needed. (One was a kid who throws bottle cap at car and bounces of windshield). I recommend getting 90* micro usb connector on mounting harness as well for pro installation. https://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Rec.../dp/B07M7GP6TH Motor Up |
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02-02-2021, 12:03 PM | #40 |
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I really should have followed this guide and did it myself, but I’m seriously not handy at all.
I gave these exact instructions to a reputable car audio shop near me and they said they’d follow them. This was for radar hardwire only. They said the F59 fuse was still providing power after the doors locked and closed (and showed me). They ended up doing some convoluted solution to hook a module up to the OBD to determine when to switch off power. It’s been over two hours and The module itself is $150 before labor. I wish I wasn’t tied up with work, I would have stopped them right away. Seems they’re doing a hell of a lot for something others took care of themselves. Update -- they did do a good job, and I'm satisfied. I'm just a bit confused because I could have sworn folks with 2021 m550is hardwired via this method. If so, not sure why there would have been an issue. Last edited by Beerflakes; 02-02-2021 at 01:06 PM.. |
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02-09-2021, 12:20 PM | #41 |
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This is a very helpful guide but I've yet to have any success with it. It could be my lack of understanding or a faulty component like the hardwire kit I got.
I'm also in a RHD G31 - it seems that in the RHD vehicles the fuse box is on the same side, so in the driver's footwell. It looks the same layout as listed and there's nothing in the passender footwell. I tried the add-a-circuit in F59 and I think I grounded it but I don't think I got any power to the dashcam via the micro-USB hardwire kit I'd got. Edit: The problem was the connections on the hardwire kit. Tested it with a multimeter, got it plugged into F59, now working - thanks for the guide! Last edited by Curval; 02-10-2021 at 09:39 AM.. |
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03-26-2021, 11:27 AM | #42 |
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Just finished my Mirrortap - 2018 M550
Update:
Just finished with my mirrortap (part # 4015) install. Pulled all three pieces of trim off to make it easier to get to the plug. Got the plug apart, found the brown and red/ black wire and played with best location to plug taps. Got them fully inserted after I played with them a bit (there is one "best" location/side). Didn't route through any of the slots. It fits nicely down one side (drivers) and leaves plenty of slack to plug detector in (i'm using a suction cup mount but will probably go with a blend mount for aesthetics). Learnings!!! 1) Tapping into the wires i described above will power the unit. It will shut down after 7-8 minutes so it's not a continuous power source as described in another thread. 2) I did lock the car and put stored the key away from the car just to make sure 3) The vid the guy put out pulling the trim off of his 540 was helpful. 4) You don't have to source power from the fuse box but it's always an option 5) Was done in 30 min but I always take my time 6) Use your plastic trim tools to separate the 2nd and 3rd (smaller) pieces of trim. The middle piece is the larger pain in the ass vs the others 7) I always use a LED headlamp - helps when inserting the taps 8) Sorry I suck at taking pics Ciao..... |
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03-29-2021, 09:38 PM | #43 |
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I have noticed... F59 will immediately power off when engine stops in ECO Pro mode. Camera will chime when restarting. Just FYI.
I too can confirm the F59 will power down after car goes to sleep. Which I prefer... My camera will wake if struck during sleep mode and permanently store images. Which I hope never to need.... |
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04-05-2021, 05:55 PM | #44 |
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Mirrortap on M340i
Thank for this excellent write up. I just completed the install on my 2021 M340I XDrive. My advice based on what I read and doing it is this: Start at the lowest point when separating the plastic housing. Closest to the dash. It was the only place I could get a tool started. I broke no pieces doing it this way. I will include a few pictures and links to both the mirrortap and the inexpensive mount I bought
Mirror Mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Mirrortap https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS. Wiring as shown in this post results in my detector shutting off in approx 5 minutes. Thank you all for the incredibly helpful post |
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