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03-31-2022, 10:11 AM | #45 | |
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03-31-2022, 11:26 AM | #46 |
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The best way to do this is buy the cheapest decent battery (usually interstate from Costco), and just plan on replacing it every 5 years. Eking out extra life from a more expensive (and likely not actually better) battery is silly. Every battery out there is going to have a fairly similar lifetime.
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03-31-2022, 11:51 AM | #47 |
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I think I will go with the Duracell H6 if I go the AGM route, but now I am thinking about the Antigravity 60aH. Hard to justify it economically, but in theory it packs a punch and can last 8-10 years, with no downside but cost. There are so few things we can do to these cars with truly no downside or compromise.
Last edited by wyatth; 03-31-2022 at 11:36 PM.. |
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03-31-2022, 11:14 PM | #48 | |
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04-01-2022, 09:50 AM | #49 | |
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04-01-2022, 12:54 PM | #50 |
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I went with duralast from autozone. My buddy got me an h8 platinum for $170 so I couldn't pass it up. The lightweight options seem cool but my car is full weight so I don't think I'd notice the 50 lbs
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04-03-2022, 07:23 PM | #51 |
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The most expensive car battery I've ever bought, but on a ultra-low mile garage queen, I've been killing batteries every 2-3 years.
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04-05-2022, 10:27 PM | #52 |
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Why did you go with the 80ah? I thought the 60ah was the recommended lithium.
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04-06-2022, 08:36 AM | #53 | |
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Don't want the battery to shutdown on me if I can avoid it or I lose my OBD2 memory and have to get all my emissions sensors back to ready state.
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04-06-2022, 04:12 PM | #56 |
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How much $ to ship a 50lb battery?
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04-06-2022, 06:08 PM | #59 |
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On many parts, I would agree with you. On batteries, not so much. If you are not going ultra-low-weight then a battery is just a battery. Pick a brand or vendor or warranty period that you like and just go with it. There is very little difference between 1 battery and another, and paying double because it say BMW on it makes no sense. You don't think they make those batteries in-house do you?
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04-06-2022, 06:12 PM | #60 | |
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04-06-2022, 07:54 PM | #61 |
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guess you missed the whole rod bearing thread?
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04-07-2022, 02:11 AM | #62 |
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04-07-2022, 12:19 PM | #63 | |
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As long as you have enough power to start the car from cold, the battery doesn't do much other than being a buffer for power demands while the car engine (and alternator) are running. If you drive every day, you can get away with a smaller battery as long as it has enough CCA (cold cranking amps) to get the V8 fired up. OE spec is 850 CCA. If you drive infrequently, you'll need a battery that can tolerate deep cycle charges (e.g. AGM). Lithium is popular because the power output is linear - regular batteries are basically useless below 50% charge, but a lithium will still start you at 20%. More amp-hours gives you more time between drives.
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04-11-2022, 12:43 PM | #64 | |
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What about the deep cycles batteries like the Yellow Top? .
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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04-11-2022, 06:02 PM | #65 |
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Just another AGM as far as I can tell Googling it.
Deep cycle is more just referring to the fact that they can tolerate being run all the way down without really "hurting" the battery. So if I leave the car in a garage for 6 months without being driven, the AGM will basically be flat. Lead acids don't really like that, but you can still top the AGM back up and it'll tolerate that pretty well. They still face the general challenge of only about 50% of their capacity is truly usable. Honestly not a big issue for most of you folks who drive a few times a month or daily their car. More a problem for someone like me who drives the car maybe 5 times a year and don't have an easy way to run a tender in the garage (I have about 6950 miles on my car).
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