Contradicting enging break-in advice

success · 11-08-2005, 04:53 PM

So whats the real story with the 1200 mile break in period.

Different people at my dealership have given me several different answers, what are you guys doing about break in?

success · 11-08-2005, 04:54 PM

BTW my dealer told me to drive the auto in tip mode and not to shift till well into redline in every gear... just didn't know if you guys were doing the same or not

Mikey3 · 11-08-2005, 05:32 PM

^

What the F*CK? .... i really hope you are joking...

Usually you have to drive like a granny for the break in period. However, my theory is, the closer you get to the end of break in, the litlle harder you can push the car, think of it like a gradient. Start off like a granny driver and slowly push the car at the last 300miles or so, maybe up to 4500rpm if you want. But yeah, this would be my method. Yes there are mixed opinions but if you want to be safefor break-in, just keep it under 3500rpm

Jesse Wilson · 11-08-2005, 05:35 PM

No cruise, vary the rpm's, nothing above 4K, and then change the oil at 1200 miles is all I did.

Jesse

obLu · 11-08-2005, 06:18 PM

It's all a lie. The only thing you *don't* want to do is cruise along at the same speed all the time. Definately lift off a couple of times at freeway speed so the rings can experience some vacuum as well as compression.

I don't put too much stock in, 'don't go over 4500rpm until *exactly* 1200miles'. What happens at 1200 miles? The red plastic popper pops out of the turkey and tells you it's done?

I'm not going to drive it really hard all the time no matter how many miles are on it, but a blast to redline here or there when the oil pressure is up to operating pressure isn't going to kill it. Even when it's brand new with 5mi on it.

mc68386 · 11-09-2005, 12:04 AM

Much more important is to baby the car until it has warmed up (ie try to keep it under 3500 until you've driven 6 to 10 miles.) This goes for the life of the car, not just the break in period. Once it's warm, don't baby it or your bimmer will always be a big baby.
Keep in mind that non-engine parts need some break in too - that's the basis for the 100mph limit.

lux.sh · 11-09-2005, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by success

BTW my dealer told me to drive the auto in tip mode and not to shift till well into redline in every gear... just didn't know if you guys were doing the same or not

Call up the terriosts and tell them to bomb that dealership.

As for break-in info, do a search. there are too many threads on this.

MTMnet · 11-09-2005, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by success

BTW my dealer told me to drive the auto in tip mode and not to shift till well into redline in every gear... just didn't know if you guys were doing the same or not

That is crazy! I hope they were joking.

Break-in period - Page 98 of the manual
Attempt to vary both engine and vehicle speeds, but refrain from exceeding an engine speed of 4,500 rpm or a driving speed of 100mph

Avoid full-throttle operation and us of the transmission's kick-down mode.

epiphone3 · 11-09-2005, 08:58 AM

What really defines break-in period is what you want to avoid...

The three things that kill and engine while you are wearing it in is lugging the engine (i.e. driving from very low speed in too-high of a gear) as this puts much load on piston rings and on cylinder wall... the other thing to avoid is overheating. Third, runing at constant speed for prolonged periods just does not wear-in the engine and doesn't help to seat the rings and can lead to a "polished" cylinder wall that leads to lost compression.

Moral of the story is that if you want good performance, baby the car until it is at operating temperatures and pressures... then drive the car at varing speeds but don't be afraid of using all of that 4500 rpm in sustained fashion as you get later into the break-in period. If you flash the revs to 5000 or something, you won't kill it if you are at operting temperatures. I would try and enjoy the car despite the sustained rev limits!

Macfreak7 · 11-09-2005, 09:07 AM

My sales person said that engines that come with synthetic oil from the factory have already been "broken into". Non-synthetic oil is better suited for the break in job, therefore it has been done by the manufacturer before they use the synthetic oil.
I still babied my car to about 1300 miles. However, I did notice a difference in the engine tone at about 900 miles. Better safe than sorry.

breton · 11-09-2005, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by obLu

It's all a lie. The only thing you *don't* want to do is cruise along at the same speed all the time. Definately lift off a couple of times at freeway speed so the rings can experience some vacuum as well as compression.

Has anyone actually hooked up a vacuum gauge to the car? Is there any chance that without a conventional throttle plate, the valvetronic engine doesn't pull a traditional vacuum?

Just wondering...

epiphone3 · 11-09-2005, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Macfreak7

My sales person said that engines that come with synthetic oil from the factory have already been "broken into". Non-synthetic oil is better suited for the break in job, therefore it has been done by the manufacturer before they use the synthetic oil.
I still babied my car to about 1300 miles. However, I did notice a difference in the engine tone at about 900 miles. Better safe than sorry.

Since when do sales people know anything about their cars?

billgti · 11-09-2005, 01:50 PM

i know..when will people realize that most salesmen know nothing much about the cars they are trying to sell.

Macfreak7 · 11-09-2005, 02:06 PM

Not all sales people lack knowledge about the product they're trying to sell.
But anyway, I've also read the same thing that he claimed at some oil company's website. I THINK it was amsoil, but I could be wrong.

Anyway, play it safe, and go by the manual.

ben1364 · 11-09-2005, 02:09 PM

As someone else advised, "Break-in period - Page 98 of the (Owners')manual"
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This is good enough for me. I don't agree with BMW on everything but I respect their corporate knowlege regarding engines and drivetrains.

cannonspike22 · 11-09-2005, 06:10 PM

heh i was careful to not rev over 4500rpm for the first 300 or 400 miles, then until i hit 1200 miles, i reved it over 5000 a few times, 6000 once, and 7000 once. i dont think it really matters that much other than cruddy gas mileage.

wstrohm · 11-09-2005, 07:46 PM

"Has anyone actually hooked up a vacuum gauge to the car? Is there any chance that without a conventional throttle plate, the valvetronic engine doesn't pull a traditional vacuum?"

Good question, but where would you put the sensor (i.e. plug in the hose)?

ase2dais · 11-09-2005, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by success

So whats the real story with the 1200 mile break in period. Different people at my dealership have given me several different answers, what are you guys doing about break in?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cannonspike22

.....other than cruddy gas mileage.

Im glad I followed the breakin rule. I've slowly starting to see some improvement in my average gas mileage. Initially during my break-in period, I was getting 21 mpg average on my steptronic. Now, that Im slowly taking it up to speed, and stretching its potential. I see a slight mpg increase. My last fill up average mpg was 23.9. Wow! maybe my hwy 29mpg can be boosted 31mpg. I will soon see in my future NY/NJ drive.

Every little thing helps, I know manny tranny may get more, but no matter what, a good breakin helps.

visor · 11-09-2005, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plenoach

Has anyone actually hooked up a vacuum gauge to the car? Is there any chance that without a conventional throttle plate, the valvetronic engine doesn't pull a traditional vacuum?

Just wondering...

Apparently, there is a throttle body and throttle plate!
The body exists to produce the traditional vaccuum into the manifold.
The throttle plate is normally fully open, except when at idle, then it's partially closed to create turbulence for better idle and also EGR.

See this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=throttle

breton · 11-10-2005, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by visor

Apparently, there is a throttle body and throttle plate!
The body exists to produce the traditional vaccuum into the manifold.
The throttle plate is normally fully open, except when at idle, then it's partially closed to create turbulence for better idle and also EGR.

See this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=throttle

Makes sense. Good find.

11-08-2005, 04:53 PM	#1
success I damn near had to wreck a hoe! 2 Rep 14 Posts Drives: Black/Black Bitch! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (0)	Contradicting enging break-in advice So whats the real story with the 1200 mile break in period. Different people at my dealership have given me several different answers, what are you guys doing about break in? __________________ There are no real limits.
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11-08-2005, 04:54 PM	#2
success I damn near had to wreck a hoe! 2 Rep 14 Posts Drives: Black/Black Bitch! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (0)	BTW my dealer told me to drive the auto in tip mode and not to shift till well into redline in every gear... just didn't know if you guys were doing the same or not __________________ There are no real limits.
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11-08-2005, 05:32 PM	#3
Mikey3 Private First Class 10 Rep 133 Posts Drives: e90..... soon.... Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Australia - Perth iTrader: (0)	^ What the F*CK? .... i really hope you are joking... Usually you have to drive like a granny for the break in period. However, my theory is, the closer you get to the end of break in, the litlle harder you can push the car, think of it like a gradient. Start off like a granny driver and slowly push the car at the last 300miles or so, maybe up to 4500rpm if you want. But yeah, this would be my method. Yes there are mixed opinions but if you want to be safefor break-in, just keep it under 3500rpm __________________ Tell me what you eat And I will tell you what you are.
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11-08-2005, 05:35 PM	#4
Jesse Wilson Lieutenant 12 Rep 409 Posts Drives: 2006 325I Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Tempe, AZ iTrader: (2)	No cruise, vary the rpm's, nothing above 4K, and then change the oil at 1200 miles is all I did. Jesse
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11-08-2005, 06:18 PM	#5
obLu Major 50 Rep 1,159 Posts Drives: 330i 6MT ZSP Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kirkland, WA, USA iTrader: (1)	It's all a lie. The only thing you don't want to do is cruise along at the same speed all the time. Definately lift off a couple of times at freeway speed so the rings can experience some vacuum as well as compression. I don't put too much stock in, 'don't go over 4500rpm until exactly 1200miles'. What happens at 1200 miles? The red plastic popper pops out of the turkey and tells you it's done? I'm not going to drive it really hard all the time no matter how many miles are on it, but a blast to redline here or there when the oil pressure is up to operating pressure isn't going to kill it. Even when it's brand new with 5mi on it.
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11-09-2005, 12:04 AM	#6
mc68386 Private First Class 8 Rep 121 Posts Drives: '06 330i 6MT Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Tucson, AZ iTrader: (0)	Much more important is to baby the car until it has warmed up (ie try to keep it under 3500 until you've driven 6 to 10 miles.) This goes for the life of the car, not just the break in period. Once it's warm, don't baby it or your bimmer will always be a big baby. Keep in mind that non-engine parts need some break in too - that's the basis for the 100mph limit. __________________ 2006 330i \| Black Sapphire Metallic \| Black Dakota Leather \| 6SP MT \| ZPP \| ZSP \| ZCW \| Sirius
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11-09-2005, 08:58 AM	#9
epiphone3 Lieutenant Colonel 112 Rep 1,772 Posts Drives: 2013 BMW X3 35i Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	What really defines break-in period is what you want to avoid... The three things that kill and engine while you are wearing it in is lugging the engine (i.e. driving from very low speed in too-high of a gear) as this puts much load on piston rings and on cylinder wall... the other thing to avoid is overheating. Third, runing at constant speed for prolonged periods just does not wear-in the engine and doesn't help to seat the rings and can lead to a "polished" cylinder wall that leads to lost compression. Moral of the story is that if you want good performance, baby the car until it is at operating temperatures and pressures... then drive the car at varing speeds but don't be afraid of using all of that 4500 rpm in sustained fashion as you get later into the break-in period. If you flash the revs to 5000 or something, you won't kill it if you are at operting temperatures. I would try and enjoy the car despite the sustained rev limits!
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11-09-2005, 09:07 AM	#10
Macfreak7 Private First Class 3 Rep 135 Posts Drives: E90 330i MT Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Carlsbad iTrader: (0)	My sales person said that engines that come with synthetic oil from the factory have already been "broken into". Non-synthetic oil is better suited for the break in job, therefore it has been done by the manufacturer before they use the synthetic oil. I still babied my car to about 1300 miles. However, I did notice a difference in the engine tone at about 900 miles. Better safe than sorry. __________________
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11-09-2005, 01:50 PM	#13
billgti Lieutenant 26 Rep 506 Posts Drives: 06 BMW 330i Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Los Angeles, CA iTrader: (0)	i know..when will people realize that most salesmen know nothing much about the cars they are trying to sell.
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11-09-2005, 02:06 PM	#14
Macfreak7 Private First Class 3 Rep 135 Posts Drives: E90 330i MT Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Carlsbad iTrader: (0)	Not all sales people lack knowledge about the product they're trying to sell. But anyway, I've also read the same thing that he claimed at some oil company's website. I THINK it was amsoil, but I could be wrong. Anyway, play it safe, and go by the manual. __________________
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11-09-2005, 02:09 PM	#15
ben1364 Captain 14 Rep 940 Posts Drives: E90 330iA Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Georgetown, TX iTrader: (0)	As someone else advised, "Break-in period - Page 98 of the (Owners')manual" ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ This is good enough for me. I don't agree with BMW on everything but I respect their corporate knowlege regarding engines and drivetrains.
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11-09-2005, 06:10 PM	#16
cannonspike22 Second Lieutenant 10 Rep 275 Posts Drives: 06 325i Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Claremont, CA iTrader: (1)	heh i was careful to not rev over 4500rpm for the first 300 or 400 miles, then until i hit 1200 miles, i reved it over 5000 a few times, 6000 once, and 7000 once. i dont think it really matters that much other than cruddy gas mileage. __________________ 06 325i \| Black Sapph \| Leatherette \| Alum \| Steptronic \| ZSP \| Xenon Adapt. \|
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11-09-2005, 07:46 PM	#17
wstrohm New Member 0 Rep 12 Posts Drives: 1990 Miata, 1994 RX-7 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Fountain Valley, California iTrader: (0)	"Has anyone actually hooked up a vacuum gauge to the car? Is there any chance that without a conventional throttle plate, the valvetronic engine doesn't pull a traditional vacuum?" Good question, but where would you put the sensor (i.e. plug in the hose)?
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