[Ivision]

I lost all the electricity for my car (2006 325I), I couldn't even pull out the key, no power door lock, no interior/exterior lights. The car wouldn't start because no electricity. I checked the battery is still good. The strange thing is when I check the fuse box the half of the fuse has electricity but the other half (fuse# 1-30)has nothing. Anyone experienced this? What might be the issue?

Thank You in advance for any assistance.

[smass]

Pull the cover off just above your 2.4v label and check for voltage there.

[Tunafish]

Yep that, grounds .. Make sure water didnt get in battery compartment..

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Ivision

I lost all the electricity for my car (2006 325I), I couldn't even pull out the key, no power door lock, no interior/exterior lights. The car wouldn't start because no electricity. I checked the battery is still good. The strange thing is when I check the fuse box the half of the fuse has electricity but the other half (fuse# 1-30)has nothing.

QUESTIONS:

1) I assume the Radio does NOT operate with Remote Key in Insert Compartment? It SHOULD do that BEFORE START button is pressed. Brake Lights should ALSO work at "Terminal R" position (Remote inserted).

2) I assume Instrument Cluster does NOT light at all when START button is pressed WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch?

3) If you have a Scan Tool, please indicate Brand & Model.

4) If you have Diagnostic Software such as INPA or ISTA, please identify.

4a) If Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software, what is "Terminal 87" or DME Main Relay Voltage?

5) If you have a multimeter, what is the Voltage reading:
a) At Battery Posts? Actual Battery Voltage.

b) At Jumpstart Terminals under hood? Voltage delivered by LARGE Red Cable at front of battery.

c) At Connector X10209 at the Battery Rear Power Distribution Panel, per attached "Installation Location"? Just flip-up the cover over the stud & nut to which cable is connected. This is B+ power at battery-end of Medium-sized Red Cable that attaches to Junction Box Fuse Panel at forward end. This Cable runs INSIDE car, and NOT through "Transfer Points" forward of battery, and Beneath Car, as Starter/Alternator & DME (Small Red Cable) are routed.

d) At Connector X13020 (above "2.4 VOLT" in your posted photo).

If you have 12V+ at (a), (b) & (c), but substantially LESS or ~ 0 at X13020, then you have the B+ Battery Cable issue which was the subject of a recall. Please post back after testing.

Attached to NEXT post, so as to NOT destroy margins of this post or make attachments illegible, are the following from ISTA, for 2006 325i:
A) Simplified Junction Box (A4010) wiring diagram, power supply portion;
B) Installation Location (EBO) of Connector X10209 at Battery in Trunk;
C) X13020 B+ Connection to JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel.

George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are the following from ISTA, for 2006 325i:
A) Simplified Junction Box (A4010) wiring diagram, power supply portion;
B) Installation Location (EBO) of Connector X10209 at Battery in Trunk;
C) X13020 B+ Connection to JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel.

Also attached is ScreenPrint of Rear Power Distribution Panel B+ Cables
ScreenPrint for BMW Training Manual, E90 Voltage Supply

George

[Ivision]

Thanks everyone for the input. I found the problem.
When I measure the voltage at X10209, the whole distribution box was wiggling. I found the positive terminal clamp was loosed. I tightened it back, the car came back alive.
Sorry wasted everyone's time.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Ivision

Thanks everyone for the input. I found the problem.
When I measure the voltage at X10209, the whole distribution box was wiggling. I found the positive terminal clamp was loosed. I tightened it back, the car came back alive. Sorry wasted everyone's time.

NEVER a waste of time to learn how a system, such as Power Distribution System, WORKS. Also helps to REFRESH your knowledge of Systems, and HOW to Diagnose a fault in a system.

I assume what was loose was the 10mm Nut on the "T-bolt" that tightens the (+) Battery Terminal at the forward end of the battery? If the battery had recently been replaced, or other work recently done requiring removal of the Rear Power Distribution Panel from on top of the battery, I would check ALL Fasteners for proper torque and installation, including the battery "Hold-down" clamp at the rear of battery. Hold-down clamp bolt & Terminal T-bolt nuts are 10mm. There are TWO 13mm nuts for the B+ supply to Power Distribution Panel & the JB B+ Supply (X10209), each located beneath a "flip-up" cover on the Panel.

Of course, BEST Practice is ALWAYS disconnect Negative Battery Terminal (-) BEFORE touching a B+ Terminal or nut with a wrench, to prevent a "Light Show" or "welding" the wrench to the chassis.

One more reason to take the time to THINK about (ANALyze) how the system works and what CAN go WRONG if each step in an R&R Procedure is NOT done properly. Most of us have tried to set a "New Speed Record" for performing a procedure, and done something silly (it's a "Guy Thing").

BTW, if you have a Scan Tool (or better yet INPA/ISTA) to read DME Fault Codes, it would be helpful to know if a Fault Code was saved in DME Memory due to your loose battery connection, such as: P160E | 2DEB | Power Management Operation Without Battery.

Thanks for taking the time to share what you learned,
George