[Haradrim]

I had similar changes too.
When i bought my car 0km, the car with p7 cinturatos 18inch wheels. The speed area of vibration was 105-120kmh, after that got bridgestone er300 vibration same and speed range is 125-140km/h

[jaxdtw2196]

I don't believe it has anything to do with tires or wheels. The two 540's I went through had different wheel sizes/wheel designs and different tires. As a matter of fact, the dealer tried different brand tires as well and nothing helped.

[Frenchstar-57]

Hi,

After few research in german forum, a possible solution :
https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/vibr...-t7293197.html
https://www.hubauer-shop.de/en/8053074-disc-for-h.html

The possible solution is to center perfectly the wheel on the hub and use friction disk between the wheel and the hub ( example in link hubauer shop)
regarding to the person who created this post, the friction disk prevent the wheel to move and create vibration

[Haradrim]

Originally Posted by Frenchstar-57

Hi,

After few research in german forum, a possible solution :
https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/vibr...-t7293197.html
https://www.hubauer-shop.de/en/8053074-disc-for-h.html

The possible solution is to center perfectly the wheel on the hub and use friction disk between the wheel and the hub ( example in link hubauer shop)
regarding to the person who created this post, the friction disk prevent the wheel to move and create vibration

Hi,

The symptopms are very close to mine and i’ll try to find these pieces. Unfortunately its very hard to find these on Turkey

Until i find these pieces should i try plastic rim rings like below? It also prevents wheel movements

[Frenchstar-57]

Originally Posted by Haradrim

Hi,

The symptopms are very close to mine and i’ll try to find these pieces. Unfortunately its very hard to find these on Turkey

Until i find these pieces should i try plastic rim rings like below? It also prevents wheel movements

Regarding to the guy on mototalk de, you can simply do a test by using rubber tape i think (TESA) on the surface between the hub and the wheel, a sort of seal.
I don't recommend to use the plastic rims like below, its not original part, it doesn't fit, and it can make damage.
these pieces are BMW original part, it can be possible to order that in you bmw dealer.
I have already ordered 2 pieces for the rear wheels, i will report here the conclusions

[Haradrim]

Originally Posted by Frenchstar-57

Regarding to the guy on mototalk de, you can simply do a test by using rubber tape i think (TESA) on the surface between the hub and the wheel, a sort of seal.
I don't recommend to use the plastic rims like below, its not original part, it doesn't fit, and it can make damage.
these pieces are BMW original part, it can be possible to order that in you bmw dealer.
I have already ordered 2 pieces for the rear wheels, i will report here the conclusions

Okay then, waiting your upgrades. wish this solve our issue

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Frenchstar-57

Hi,

The possible solution is to center perfectly the wheel on the hub and use friction disk between the wheel and the hub ( example in link hubauer shop)
regarding to the person who created this post, the friction disk prevent the wheel to move and create vibration

Interesting that more careful wheel centering and improved clamping, with a friction disc, may be the solution.

Got to ask, has anyone actually measured the hub spigot and wheel center bore to see what the clearance is? It may be too big a tolerance and allowing an eccentric mount, if extra mounting care is not followed.

We've been here before with previous models, if the machining had too wide a tolerance. Many of us know how hub centric rings can be necessary to take up the 'slack' on rims with a larger bore. But we shouldn't have issues with BMW OE mated parts.

[CnSky]

Interesting, watching this as a possible solution.

Does anyone have the BMW part numbers for these discs?

FYI road force balance should be done with a mount that is through the 5 bolt holes not an inner cone so it negates any non centric issue on the wheel but if the wheel can still move when driving due to mating surface problems that can definitely cause vibrations etc.l but it shouldn't cause wheel hop on hard acceleration.

Have any of you checked your transmission mounts with a Borescope I did see attached.

Only 36000 Km on the car when I did this and all of them had tears but BMW say it's not an issue.

Not sure I believe them any more. A transmission moving too much can cause wheel hop when hard accelerating from what I read online.

Also too much movement can cause drive issues which can manifest as what feels like shaking or vibrations.

You should also check this, it's very easy to do if you can get under the car and pickup a cheap Borescope I paid only 35 Euro for this one at ALDI.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by CnSky

Interesting, watching this as a possible solution.

Does anyone have the BMW part numbers for these discs?

FYI road force balance should be done with a mount that is through the 5 bolt holes not an inner cone so it negates any non centric issue on the wheel but if the wheel can still move when driving due to mating surface problems that can definitely cause vibrations etc. l but it shouldn't cause wheel hop on hard acceleration.

Have any of you checked your transmission mounts with a Borescope I did see attached.

I'm watching for the result as well.

You mention the soft bushings, can certainly contribute to wheel hop on hard acceleration. Whether worn out or not may depend on how the tyres grip.

I remember my F11 suffering from wheel hop on a couple of occasions, on a specific bit of road under hard acceleration. Tyre treads were getting down, so whether better or worse grip was a contributing factor, not certain. After changing to new tyres, (same brand and spec'), never had it happen again.

[Haradrim]

I am really waiting unpatiently and hope your results

Good luck

[Frenchstar-57]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Interesting that more careful wheel centering and improved clamping, with a friction disc, may be the solution.

Got to ask, has anyone actually measured the hub spigot and wheel center bore to see what the clearance is? It may be too big a tolerance and allowing an eccentric mount, if extra mounting care is not followed.

We've been here before with previous models, if the machining had too wide a tolerance. Many of us know how hub centric rings can be necessary to take up the 'slack' on rims with a larger bore. But we shouldn't have issues with BMW OE mated parts.

it's possible to check the centring of the wheel by remove the logo BMW from the wheel and insert feeler gauge between wheel and hub, i read that the max tolerance is < 0,15mm, this verification has to be done during the mouting wheel process, with only 1 screw , screwed by hand. i never tried it
i think that the friction disc prevent the wheel from moving and reach that tolerance.
I will try it when i receive the discs.

[CnSky]

Hi Pete my tyres are in very good condition plenty of thread MPS3 RFTs.

I'm convinced the power on back left is not being put down properly and it's the drive shaft, transmission or shock causing the issue (maybe top mount).

Became much more apparent after remapping the car as it putting down a lot more power.

The back left is the corner I've had issue with all along.

Who know but it's not that big a deal to do the shock top mount and drive shaft I have the parts but the transmission mounts is a different issue and big work.

I find it weird they all have tears so soon but I didn't own the car since new so who knows what happened. Also BMW saying it's no big deal is also worrying how would they know on a car that at time I had issue was only 3.5 years since release I suspect that are talking crap.

[juliusedward]

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[Haradrim]

Originally Posted by Frenchstar-57

Regarding to the guy on mototalk de, you can simply do a test by using rubber tape i think (TESA) on the surface between the hub and the wheel, a sort of seal.
I don't recommend to use the plastic rims like below, its not original part, it doesn't fit, and it can make damage.
these pieces are BMW original part, it can be possible to order that in you bmw dealer.
I have already ordered 2 pieces for the rear wheels, i will report here the conclusions

Hello, i have checked my local dealer they said its on stock.

Did you get them. Will order according to your feedbacks.

Thank you.

[Haradrim]

!! update !!



Tesa Rubber tape applied on wheel hub.

Vibrations was 10/10 now 2/10 There is 2-3mm movement on wheel hub.

I think end of the tunnel is the fritction disk.

[Frenchstar-57]

Originally Posted by Haradrim

!! update !!



Tesa Rubber tape applied on wheel hub.

Vibrations was 10/10 now 2/10 There is 2-3mm movement on wheel hub.

I think end of the tunnel is the fritction disk.

Good news, my frictions disk are coming this wednesday, and i will try to mount them this week.

[Haradrim]

Originally Posted by Frenchstar-57

Good news, my frictions disk are coming this wednesday, and i will try to mount them this week.

Good to hear that, waiting your news

Alper

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Haradrim

!! update !!

Tesa Rubber tape applied on wheel hub.

Vibrations was 10/10 now 2/10 There is 2-3mm movement on wheel hub.

I think end of the tunnel is the friction disk.

That is some clearance... if measuring as 2-3mm.

BMW Data for my F11;

Note: Play at the wheel hub greater than or equal to 0.15mm is outside the permissible tolerance.

Yes, 0.15mm 'maximum'.

I wonder if this is the real issue here, tolerances are far to wide on the G30 builds.

[Haradrim]

CnSky

Your slight vibrations on accelerating may be cause by this issue. You can try this disk also

[SonD]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

That is some clearance... if measuring as 2-3mm.

BMW Data for my F11;



Yes, 0.15mm 'maximum'.

I wonder if this is the real issue here, tolerances are far to wide on the G30 builds.

I’m very much thinking the same, if that ‘tape’ is re-centring the wheel around one axis, then what is happening to the stud pattern and torque settings, something will be way out at 2-3 mm thickness.

[Frenchstar-57]

Originally Posted by SonD

I’m very much thinking the same, if that ‘tape’ is re-centring the wheel around one axis, then what is happening to the stud pattern and torque settings, something will be way out at 2-3 mm thickness.

to my mind, the bolt are design to center (thanks to the conic head) and maintain the wheel against the hub on the horizontal plan. But they are not design to resist against shear stress (vertical forces).

it's the job of the grip contact zone between the wheel and hub.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by Frenchstar-57

to my mind, the bolt are design to center (thanks to the conic head) and maintain the wheel against the hub on the horizontal plan. But they are not design to resist against shear stress (vertical forces).

it's the job of the grip contact zone between the wheel and hub.

Depends. Some wheels are hub-centric and some are lug-centric. Conical lug nuts will not help center a hub-centric wheel.