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      09-13-2015, 09:12 PM   #23
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Some interior night shots

135 by Nam Ji, on Flickr

139 by Nam Ji, on Flickr

And LED's

140 by Nam Ji, on Flickr
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      10-14-2015, 02:48 PM   #24
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Something is definitely wrong with my camera or lens. I took it in to Canon factory and they had determined that they need to realign the lens because it had shifted. Majority of my photos on the left side are out of focus.































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      10-14-2015, 03:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Kzang View Post
Something is definitely wrong with my camera or lens. I took it in to Canon factory and they had determined that they need to realign the lens because it had shifted. Majority of my photos on the left side are out of focus.
I'm not sure how you "took it in to the Canon factory", but, that aside, we can't tell much about the lens from the pix that you posted. To really get a good look at lens performance, take well lit pictures of a dollar bill, with your camera mounted on your tripod, mirror locked up and remote, or timed, release. Start wide open and take comparative shots in full stop increments. If it's a zoom, try all the way wide, mid-range and all the way long. Lens distortion will show up clear as day, particularly as you look at 100% crops of various areas in the image. All lenses have distortion, but this test will give a clear idea of the lens' performance at various setting.

Don't forget to use Digital Lens Optimization during Raw conversion to automatically correct of geometric lens distortions, chromatic aberration, vignetting, etc. at every focal length and every aperture. DLO is a module include in Digital Photo Professional, that ships with every Canon dslr.

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      10-14-2015, 03:08 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by dcstep View Post
I'm not sure how you "took it in to the Canon factory", but, that aside, we can't tell much about the lens from the pix that you posted. To really get a good look at lens performance, take well lit pictures of a dollar bill, with your camera mounted on your tripod, mirror locked up and remote, or timed, release. Start wide open and take comparative shots in full stop increments. If it's a zoom, try all the way wide, mid-range and all the way long. Lens distortion will show up clear as day, particularly as you look at 100% crops of various areas in the image. All lenses have distortion, but this test will give a clear idea of the lens' performance at various setting.

Don't forget to use Digital Lens Optimization during Raw conversion to automatically correct of geometric lens distortions, chromatic aberration, vignetting, etc. at every focal length and every aperture. DLO is a module include in Digital Photo Professional, that ships with every Canon dslr.

Dave
I went to the one in NJ

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/profes...vice-locations

Look at the last two pictures and see the left side of the photos.. See how it is out of focus yet the other side is crisp? I took the camera in this morning and the Canon tech told me that they need to check the focus compensation on the camera body and lens. They will keep it for several days and repair it. The good thing is it is under warranty so they will take care of it.
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      10-14-2015, 03:19 PM   #27
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...

Look at the last two pictures and see the left side of the photos.. See how it is out of focus yet the other side is crisp? I took the camera in this morning and the Canon tech told me that they need to check the focus compensation on the camera body and lens. They will keep it for several days and repair it. The good thing is it is under warranty so they will take care of it.
I wonder if he was talking about AF micro-adjustment. That won't fix the problem because it'll just change the focus across the whole lens, not just on one side.

Yeah, best bet is, get it fixed by them.

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      10-22-2015, 08:15 PM   #28
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Some great shots. Everyone overdoes it with the clarity/shadows when they're first learning. I was a victim of it too, and I look back now and ask myself how I thought that looked good. I always try and help others out, but you can only give so much advice on it until a majority of people take offense. You'll learn more as time goes on.

As time goes on you'll also learn more about aperture and depth of field. Normally you would say the left/right side issue was that, but since the car on the left side is very similar to to the distance away from you as the car on the right, they should be almost identical for how out of focus they are. You can easily test this out.



Set something up similar to this, having 1 object centered, and then two other objects on the far left and far right. Don't zoom the lens at all or crop. Have the side object to the edges of the frame. Side objects should be the same distance away from the lens.

Shoot the same shot at f/3.5, f/5.6, and one above f/8 all focused directly on the center object. If all of the images, both side objects should be identical as far as how out of focus they are. If they aren't identical, something is messed up.

*You can also try shooting with the right object in focus at f/3.5, and the left object should be just as sharp. If the left is out of focus you know something is jacked up.


If you ever have any questions on gear, understanding something, editing, etc feel free to let me know. A lot of photographers are assholes and don't like to help anybody as if they know some secret, I like to spread my knowledge and help out as I know what it's like to have nobody to ask things. I followed you on Flickr. I don't upload much as I'm picky and like to keep mine simple/clean. Just passed 1,150,000 views

Mine - www.flickr.com/photos/23781526@N02/
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      10-23-2015, 08:23 AM   #29
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Some great shots. Everyone overdoes it with the clarity/shadows when they're first learning. I was a victim of it too, and I look back now and ask myself how I thought that looked good. I always try and help others out, but you can only give so much advice on it until a majority of people take offense. You'll learn more as time goes on.

As time goes on you'll also learn more about aperture and depth of field. Normally you would say the left/right side issue was that, but since the car on the left side is very similar to to the distance away from you as the car on the right, they should be almost identical for how out of focus they are. You can easily test this out.



Set something up similar to this, having 1 object centered, and then two other objects on the far left and far right. Don't zoom the lens at all or crop. Have the side object to the edges of the frame. Side objects should be the same distance away from the lens.

Shoot the same shot at f/3.5, f/5.6, and one above f/8 all focused directly on the center object. If all of the images, both side objects should be identical as far as how out of focus they are. If they aren't identical, something is messed up.

*You can also try shooting with the right object in focus at f/3.5, and the left object should be just as sharp. If the left is out of focus you know something is jacked up.


If you ever have any questions on gear, understanding something, editing, etc feel free to let me know. A lot of photographers are assholes and don't like to help anybody as if they know some secret, I like to spread my knowledge and help out as I know what it's like to have nobody to ask things. I followed you on Flickr. I don't upload much as I'm picky and like to keep mine simple/clean. Just passed 1,150,000 views

Mine - www.flickr.com/photos/23781526@N02/
Canon techs confirmed that the focus compensation was off and needed to be adjusted. I received the camera back from canon the other day and noticed that it isn't 100% still and now I noticed that there is a alignment issue from the viewfinder and the actual photo. Every time I take a picture of an object via view finder on the actual photo everything is slightly to the left.

So I'm probably going to call canon again to have them adjust this...
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      10-31-2015, 06:43 PM   #30
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I got the camera back and still not happy with the results... maybe I just can't seem to take crisp pics or this kit lens sucks and I need invest in a good lens..

Fall is in the air...













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      10-31-2015, 09:28 PM   #31
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Are you sharpening at all in post? I went about a full year wondering why my shots weren't sharp at all until I realized my default settings were with no sharpening at all.

Also spent a few months with noise reduction turned on with my Canon 6D which was softening all my photos to reduce noise. Turned that off and it changed everything.

If you want to email me one of your RAW files, I'll play with it a bit and see what I can come up with, and email you back the PSD file with the layers. The kit lenses these days are much better than 5 years ago and will still take amazing photos, but some new glass will blow you away. mdaveyphoto@gmail.com
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      11-01-2015, 06:21 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDaveyy View Post
Are you sharpening at all in post? I went about a full year wondering why my shots weren't sharp at all until I realized my default settings were with no sharpening at all.

Also spent a few months with noise reduction turned on with my Canon 6D which was softening all my photos to reduce noise. Turned that off and it changed everything.

If you want to email me one of your RAW files, I'll play with it a bit and see what I can come up with, and email you back the PSD file with the layers. The kit lenses these days are much better than 5 years ago and will still take amazing photos, but some new glass will blow you away. mdaveyphoto@gmail.com
I did try sharpening them up post. I am just curious as to why the right side is sharp as cane but the left side is always out of focus.
I just sent you and email on a perfect example RAW photo. Thanks for your help!
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      11-24-2015, 12:48 PM   #33
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At a recent BMW meet. I realize lot of my shots are not straight and my composition sort of sucks.. Any guidance is appreciated!



















































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      11-24-2015, 02:26 PM   #34
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If you're just starting out I would forget about post processing and focus on composition. Get a cheap 50 mm 1.8 prime, focus on framing simple, focused shots and just shoot in jpeg.

The colors are really distracting, but don't really matter if you don't have solid shots to begin with. You also have some strange vignetting on the upper left corner. Not sure if you are using too many filters or what.

I would start by shooting single cars, not multiple and trying to think of what image you are trying to create when shooting. You can always learn by copying, too. Find images/angles you like on the internet and try to recreate them. You'll figure out what it takes to make that kind of image and start to understand why that image works vs. random shots.

Btw, the interior of the X5 looks great. I really like the lower belt line look and the lighting effects. It would be cool if in a future M model they had an illuminated line across the dash that changes color when you enter M mode.
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      11-24-2015, 03:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imserious View Post
If you're just starting out I would forget about post processing and focus on composition. Get a cheap 50 mm 1.8 prime, focus on framing simple, focused shots and just shoot in jpeg.

The colors are really distracting, but don't really matter if you don't have solid shots to begin with. You also have some strange vignetting on the upper left corner. Not sure if you are using too many filters or what.

I would start by shooting single cars, not multiple and trying to think of what image you are trying to create when shooting. You can always learn by copying, too. Find images/angles you like on the internet and try to recreate them. You'll figure out what it takes to make that kind of image and start to understand why that image works vs. random shots.

Btw, the interior of the X5 looks great. I really like the lower belt line look and the lighting effects. It would be cool if in a future M model they had an illuminated line across the dash that changes color when you enter M mode.
I would agree with 2 main points here. The 50mm F1.8 is the best lens for the money that you can buy. That goes for Nikon or Canon shooters.

Secondly composition is mostly learned. Most of us are able to see and appreciate fine art but we can't come close to creating it.

The easiest way to learn composition is to find images you find most pleasing and study them. The angle it was shot, where the subject is in the photo, where the horizon is if there is one. Look at what you find interesting and look at things like what is in focus and what isn't. How deep into the scene is the subject?

With certain types of subjects or genres you will either want to see everything in focus (landscape) or just the subject (portrait). These effects are created by camera set up and lens choice. Lighting is also key. This can be natural or artificial.

I could go on but what you need to do is read as much as you can. There are a lot of online tutorials that are free. There are some very good ones on editing as well. Lightroom is a good program for 98% of what most people will need.

I was a pitiful photographer for years. Just out of pure ambition I pushed forward using my failures as opportunities to learn what didn't work and eventually finding things that did.

There is likely a photography club in your region if you look online. I suggest joining up and learning from others in the field. Learning on your own takes 10x longer.
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      11-24-2015, 05:43 PM   #36
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I agree with the advice about learning about composition, but can't understand why you'd cripple yourself with a 50mm prime. I find 70-200mm to be close to ideal for 80+% of my auto shooting.

I think your images lack a little contrast. The exposure value is about right, but most look "flat" to me. Try working with the Contrast control. You might also try a modest S-curve in the RGB window. Be very sparing with Saturation and Sharpening. Make sure images are really sharp by looking at them at 100% and assuring that the focus is where you want it.

I started with a 50mm, but that was the 1960s!! Zooms weren't near as good as they are today.

To me, a 24-105mm and a 70-200mm really covers a lot of ground. To my eye, "portrait" focal lengths in the 70-150mm range work really great on cars.

Dave
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      11-24-2015, 06:02 PM   #37
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I agree with the advice about learning about composition, but can't understand why you'd cripple yourself with a 50mm prime. I find 70-200mm to be close to ideal for 80+% of my auto shooting.
Agreed. Longer focal lengths are typically more flattering. However, the 70-200mm lens is an expensive one for a beginner (assuming F2.8). I would not recommend that as a learning tool. I think primes force you to deal with composition and are better for learning.
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      11-24-2015, 06:37 PM   #38
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Part of composing a shot is getting in the right position. Folks learning with zooms get (are inherently) lazy and try not to move to get a shot. A prime lens teaches (forces) people to zoom with their feet and to walk around to and from a subject finding the right distance.

When you get people to start using their feet they get better at composition.

I found this to be true. When I started out and people were talking about composition and recommending the 50mm; they said that too often people will act like their feet are in concrete. It would come to mind when I would catch myself leaning back instead of taking a step back while composing a shot.

Unless I walk around a static subject changing levels, distance and angles; I never quite find the right perspective unless for completely dumb luck that I'm in the perfect spot to start.

Of course there are many times that a zoom is the only way to get a shot. I can back up but so far when physical objects like a brick wall or other fixed object makes that impossible.

Zooms give flexibility and I use several. If one can afford what we call the Holy Trinity of zoom lenses I highly recommend it.

14-24 F2.8
24-70 F2.8
70-200 F2.8

Most people I come across that are just starting out will object first to the prices of a pro lens, 2 then object to the size and weight of these pro zooms.
Let's not forget we are talking about how to teach someone composition and a prime lens gets people moving around and moving around is where it all starts for excellent composition.

A 50mm is light, compact, is in most anyone's budget that owns an SLR and the image quality being compared to the best glass available on the market is dollar for dollar the absolute best value around. You can read the reviews of the lens or look on DXO Labs website that shows the lens comparison tests of Canon and Nikon lenses rating them on resolving power, distortion, CA, Vignetting etc and see where those lenses fall in the top 20.

The 50 will be the least expensive lens in the lot. It's earned that lens the nickname of the "Nifty Fifty" for decades and it stays true even today. That focal length inherently lends itself to excellent image quality where less complex glass elements are necessary to create a low distortion flat image that's sharp corner to corner with excellent Bokeh.
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      11-24-2015, 06:47 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imserious View Post
Agreed. Longer focal lengths are typically more flattering. However, the 70-200mm lens is an expensive one for a beginner (assuming F2.8). I would not recommend that as a learning tool. I think primes force you to deal with composition and are better for learning.
I know something is wrong with me when I lay out a long speech to say something that can actually be summed up in just a short paragraph. ^
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      11-25-2015, 01:13 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by imserious View Post
Agreed. Longer focal lengths are typically more flattering. However, the 70-200mm lens is an expensive one for a beginner (assuming F2.8). I would not recommend that as a learning tool. I think primes force you to deal with composition and are better for learning.
I recommend and use the EF 70-200mm f/4L IS.
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      11-25-2015, 01:38 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Mik3ymomo View Post
Part of composing a shot is getting in the right position. Folks learning with zooms get (are inherently) lazy and try not to move to get a shot. A prime lens teaches (forces) people to zoom with their feet and to walk around to and from a subject finding the right distance.

When you get people to start using their feet they get better at composition.

I found this to be true. When I started out and people were talking about composition and recommending the 50mm; they said that too often people will act like their feet are in concrete. It would come to mind when I would catch myself leaning back instead of taking a step back while composing a shot.

Unless I walk around a static subject changing levels, distance and angles; I never quite find the right perspective unless for completely dumb luck that I'm in the perfect spot to start.

Of course there are many times that a zoom is the only way to get a shot. I can back up but so far when physical objects like a brick wall or other fixed object makes that impossible.

Zooms give flexibility and I use several. If one can afford what we call the Holy Trinity of zoom lenses I highly recommend it.

14-24 F2.8
24-70 F2.8
70-200 F2.8

Most people I come across that are just starting out will object first to the prices of a pro lens, 2 then object to the size and weight of these pro zooms.
Let's not forget we are talking about how to teach someone composition and a prime lens gets people moving around and moving around is where it all starts for excellent composition.

A 50mm is light, compact, is in most anyone's budget that owns an SLR and the image quality being compared to the best glass available on the market is dollar for dollar the absolute best value around. You can read the reviews of the lens or look on DXO Labs website that shows the lens comparison tests of Canon and Nikon lenses rating them on resolving power, distortion, CA, Vignetting etc and see where those lenses fall in the top 20.

The 50 will be the least expensive lens in the lot. It's earned that lens the nickname of the "Nifty Fifty" for decades and it stays true even today. That focal length inherently lends itself to excellent image quality where less complex glass elements are necessary to create a low distortion flat image that's sharp corner to corner with excellent Bokeh.
Whew!!

Lazy?! Last week I walked for miles around New Orleans, with my 24-105 mounted on a full-frame body. I also carried the 70-200/f4 and the 15mm, but only used the 15mm once and that shot didn't really work out.

It's interesting to note that the shots were in three focal length groups, 1/3 were 42mm to 60mm, about 1/3 were 24mm to 35mm and the other 1./3 were in the 70-105mm range. I could have carried three primes and walked a little more, but the perspectives would not have worked with a 50mm alone.

105mm

Trolley 2012 by David Stephens, on Flickr

28mm

Paying the band by David Stephens, on Flickr

45mm

MM by David Stephens, on Flickr

To me, each has a character of its own and walking closer or further away would not have improved it. Changing focal length is part of the character of the images.

Dave
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      11-25-2015, 01:02 PM   #42
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Dave,

The hardest part for a beginner in my opinion is they shoot everything from eye level and from the first place they find themselves standing when they bring the camera up to their eye.

The idea here is to make them get into the habit of moving around to find the right perspectives. If you give a zoom to someone starting out they will mostly just frame the shot based on focal length alone and what that can zoom to or go wide on. It was the case when I started shooting and I believe it's mostly universal.

Let me state I am just an Amateur and my opinion expressed should be taken as such. Lol
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      11-25-2015, 08:39 PM   #43
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Mike, good analysis.

I think that the big problem for beginners is composition and not focal length. Whether using fixed focal length or zoom the questions should be things like, is the frame full, are there leading lines adding strength, is there balance in the image, etc.

Believe it or not, there was a time when we all had SLRs with 50mm lenses. My kit was a Pentax Spotmatic, a 50/f1.8 and a preset 200/f3.5 and I was in the minority with that telephoto. I didn't know anyone with a zoom until 1969 and he was a pro. People still made really shitty images back then, just like they do today.

I think that telling beginners to change their perspectives and take several shots of the same scene is very useful. There are exceptions, but saying that shooting from the left or right or from a high or low perspective is almost always better than shooting straight, head-on. In my examples, I walked all around that street band and took maybe thirty images, but I think the strongest is the guy putting a buck in the bucket.

I think that attention to composition is really important and that zooms are not the culprit, but a really great tool for all photographers.

Dave
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      11-26-2015, 06:27 AM   #44
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Thanks all for the suggestions.
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