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BMW 5-Series (G30) Forum iDrive, Audio, Bluetooth, Phone, Cameras, Electronics + Coding Bowers & Wilkins - Adding more Bass

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      12-28-2018, 09:45 PM   #23
shellbmb
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Awesome install! How did you know what wires to tap into to grab a speaker level input? Is there a manual or diagram somewhere out there? Likely wouldn't do it myself, but wold like to have some idea what my installer is going to do.
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      12-31-2018, 08:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shellbmb View Post
Awesome install! How did you know what wires to tap into to grab a speaker level input? Is there a manual or diagram somewhere out there? Likely wouldn't do it myself, but wold like to have some idea what my installer is going to do.
See my post #10 of this thread.

Honestly I used the same method as I used when I added a Subwoofer in my F10, using this very helpful guide.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=531940

The wires are exactly the same colour, just make sure you tap into the THICK Twisted Pairs.

(Black Thick Twisted Pair of Wires - Left Underseat Subwoofer)
(Blue Thick Twisted Pair of Wires - Right Underseat Subwoofer)

I haven't checked, but I am sure you will have to tap into the Underseat Subwoofer wires, as there will be no LOW frequencies passing through to the other speakers.
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      12-31-2018, 02:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsa100 View Post
See my post #10 of this thread.

Honestly I used the same method as I used when I added a Subwoofer in my F10, using this very helpful guide.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=531940

The wires are exactly the same colour, just make sure you tap into the THICK Twisted Pairs.

(Black Thick Twisted Pair of Wires - Left Underseat Subwoofer)
(Blue Thick Twisted Pair of Wires - Right Underseat Subwoofer)

I haven't checked, but I am sure you will have to tap into the Underseat Subwoofer wires, as there will be no LOW frequencies passing through to the other speakers.

can you fix the link? theres a ... in the middle messing it up.
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      01-01-2019, 07:30 AM   #26
nsa100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach550 View Post
can you fix the link? theres a ... in the middle messing it up.

Try this Link:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=531940

Remember this is for the F10/F11 platform, but some of it is still relevant.
There are 2No pdf to download.
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      12-14-2019, 07:23 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsa100 View Post
Having had my G31 for 2 months now with the Bowers & Wilkins audio system, in my opinion if definately needs a little more bass to balance out the mids and highs.

So I decided to add 2No 8" Subwoofers. I wanted to maintain the factory look so decided to install them under the floor in luggage area.

I knew before I started it would be difficult to find a subwoofer thin enough with enough power handling to fit under the floor. Basically you have about 95mm to play with which must accommodate the depth of the speaker and cabinet. Because I didn't want to get into fibre glassing I decided to make it out of mdf sheets which I got CNC cut to my ACAD design.

Initially I wanted the speaker enclosure to sit on top of the under floor carpet liner but having designed it fit the contours of the carpet it was still about 5mm too thick so I had to remove the liner.

I designed the cabinet for 2No RETRO Sound 8" Slim Subwoofers which were rated at 250 WRMS each. These would be driven by an Alpine PDR-M65 Amp which puts out around 450WRMS at 4 ohm. Having wired the speakers up and tested them they just cannot handle the power so I returned them.
I ended up buying 2No Kicker 8" CompRT Slim Subwoofers. I wired these at 2 ohms so the amp would deliver 650WRMS. I had to modify the enclosure by inserting MDF rings as the mounting diameter was smaller.

I installed an Audiocontrol LC2i to take the speaker level to phono level and then passed it through a MiniDSP to compensate for the enclosure roll off and more importantly the time alignment.

I am now blown away by the sound. There is not window rattling bass, but the system sounds more balanced now especially at higher volumes when the system bass gets rolled off.
Excellent write up. Hope you can help me, I have a HK System and trying to install a JL Audio 10tw3 with JL audio xd600/1 v2 and a LC2i. Using your guide the speak wires look the same. My question is where did you take the 12v power from for the LC2i? and did you have a problem with the signal sensing? Thanks
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      12-25-2019, 03:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam977 View Post
Excellent write up. Hope you can help me, I have a HK System and trying to install a JL Audio 10tw3 with JL audio xd600/1 v2 and a LC2i. Using your guide the speak wires look the same. My question is where did you take the 12v power from for the LC2i? and did you have a problem with the signal sensing? Thanks
I used the 12V power outlet that I specified when I ordered the car. This is activated when the car starts and the power cuts off about 5 mins after the engine is switched off. You may not have this option, so you will have to test behind the rear fuse blocks to find a suitable 12v trigger.

LC2i is not perfect but 95% of the time it does work as it should. The bass boost comes in OK but takes about 30 seconds to reduce when you lower the volume.
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      01-09-2020, 03:09 AM   #29
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you don't have to cut any wires.....
Check This out... http://technicpnp.com/product-catego...-5-series-g3x/
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      08-20-2020, 06:48 PM   #30
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Wow - great job !
I wonder how much (net) volume you finally got per chassis with this kind of enclosure ?
Do you let them play against the origin trunk floor, or have you foreseen cut outs ?
Regards Peter
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      02-07-2021, 09:41 PM   #31
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Hate to necro the thread but do you have some basic instructions on removing the trunk liner? Don't want to miss a fastener and snap something.

Also, how much of a difference does the 5ms time alignment make? Did you do it to make the bass blend into the front sound stage better or did you get echos or out of sync issues running without it? Could you link the specific miniDSP you used?
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      02-08-2021, 02:02 PM   #32
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Hi,
do you need the instructions for G31, or G30 ?

On my opinion, the delay of the trunk subwoofer signal does not make really sense ... The trunk subwoofer has the biggest distance to driver seat and should receive the signal earlier as all other speakers.
Generally setting up a DSP, respectively the sub signal should only be adapted in terms of frequency and phase (and gain).

I have also added a trunk subwoofer, DSP (Helix) and amp. The DSP is necessary for setting up the frequencies and for fine adjustment of gain (from driver seat).
My amp has a cable remote with gain (does not work that good) and phase control (0-180°), which definitely makes sense.

Thatīs my sub ... 12 inch Kicker L7T (meanwhile with grill and black screws )

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      10-13-2021, 05:28 PM   #33
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Does anyone know what ohms are the oem BW underseat woofers? I know the HK oem woofers are 8 ohms
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      05-28-2022, 09:42 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devil84 View Post
Does anyone know what ohms are the oem BW underseat woofers? I know the HK oem woofers are 8 ohms
Bump.

Just taken delivery of a brand new M5 LCI.

Came from a G30 540i with HK and thus far, the HK is better to my ears because it managed to deliver a warmer and more confident bass, especially apparent when listening to any sort of electronic music.

So I am now investigating what to do.

I not some people have implemented an amp with a JL_Audio CP208LG-W3v3 in the back.

Anyone changed out the subs under the seats? Are the subs the problem or is there some low pass filter which is stopping anything under 80hz or something due to some last minute resonance issues found?

Does anyone know because it seems weird why the car has decent speakers, a much more powerful amp, but lacks warm confident bass.

Thanks,
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      05-29-2022, 03:51 AM   #35
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What was the rough cost for install. ?
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      05-31-2022, 08:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 620turbo View Post
Bump.

Just taken delivery of a brand new M5 LCI.

Came from a G30 540i with HK and thus far, the HK is better to my ears because it managed to deliver a warmer and more confident bass, especially apparent when listening to any sort of electronic music.

So I am now investigating what to do.

I not some people have implemented an amp with a JL_Audio CP208LG-W3v3 in the back.

Anyone changed out the subs under the seats? Are the subs the problem or is there some low pass filter which is stopping anything under 80hz or something due to some last minute resonance issues found?

Does anyone know because it seems weird why the car has decent speakers, a much more powerful amp, but lacks warm confident bass.

Thanks,
hi, if you want to connect a amp to your oem HK amp, you need an capable of taking the high level output of the HK amp (~40v)

Couple of solutions:

1) get a LC2i by Audio Control and a mono amp to power an external sub.
2) i am selling an Audio Control mono amp which has the LC2i functionality built in. (reason i am selling is because i installed 4 channel amp instead by audio control - to power the underseat woofers and mono sub)

shout if any queries as i spent a bit of time researching this area. my sound system (which was HK from factory) sounds lot better.


https://www.carelectronicsnottingham...-175w-rms-4ohm
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      05-31-2022, 10:38 AM   #37
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I'm doing a lot of research on this as well (probably the same as many) and what is needed is a simple "MOST" interface from the input of the fibre optic feed to the HK 'amp' module.

If one can be found and made to work with the head unit & software of the '5, then it's output could and would become so much easier to make use of.
As it stands right now, as you say, any amp used (and being 9 channels its a few of them) needs to take a high level input.

This is where I am for now and waiting on some further details from them. Their distributor is not so far away from me thankfully.

https://www.audison.eu/products/bit-dmi/
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      09-01-2023, 07:19 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonD View Post
I'm doing a lot of research on this as well (probably the same as many) and what is needed is a simple "MOST" interface from the input of the fibre optic feed to the HK 'amp' module.

If one can be found and made to work with the head unit & software of the '5, then it's output could and would become so much easier to make use of.
As it stands right now, as you say, any amp used (and being 9 channels its a few of them) needs to take a high level input.

This is where I am for now and waiting on some further details from them. Their distributor is not so far away from me thankfully.

https://www.audison.eu/products/bit-dmi/
This only works with pre-LCI cars. The LCI car don't use MOST so the only way I know of at the moment is to take the high level outputs after the amp.
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