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      03-22-2019, 02:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saintalan View Post
..... I do get some interference/drop out with (UK) DAB Radio. Not sure that is to do with Dash-cam but I do have wiring to rear camera also which I have heard can be a problem.
I have just installed a Nextbase 312GW dashcam (UK spec G30) following this hardwiring information (really helped BTW thank you). I used F59 but did not remove the airbag trim panel, I just slotted the wires in the gap at the top of it and then down behind the door seal.

I now experience the dreaded DAB radio drop out / loss of distant stations which instantly return when I switch off the dashcam. If the dashcam is working but not plugged into the feed down to F59, again the DAB stations return.

I have tried a ferrite clamp on the cable from the dashcam but it made no difference.

Has anyone an other suggestions please?

Last edited by dgilbert2; 03-22-2019 at 03:58 AM..
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      03-22-2019, 08:12 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgilbert2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by saintalan View Post
..... I do get some interference/drop out with (UK) DAB Radio. Not sure that is to do with Dash-cam but I do have wiring to rear camera also which I have heard can be a problem.
I have just installed a Nextbase 312GW dashcam (UK spec G30) following this hardwiring information (really helped BTW thank you). I used F59 but did not remove the airbag trim panel, I just slotted the wires in the gap at the top of it and then down behind the door seal.

I now experience the dreaded DAB radio drop out / loss of distant stations which instantly return when I switch off the dashcam. If the dashcam is working but not plugged into the feed down to F59, again the DAB stations return.

I have tried a ferrite clamp on the cable from the dashcam but it made no difference.

Has anyone an other suggestions please?
I used block F50 with a fuse tap. That fuse controls the cigarette lighter for the front & rear of the vehicle. No problems whatsoever.
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      05-07-2019, 03:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars View Post
I used block F50 with a fuse tap. That fuse controls the cigarette lighter for the front & rear of the vehicle. No problems whatsoever.
Hey thanks for the walkthrough, I have a 2018 m550i and was planning to have a local guy just install the DR750S-2CH with your instructions

Quote:
Studying the Z44 circuit diagrams revealed that fuse F59 is completely unused (indicated by a red box with an X) and is directly connected to the switched 12V power bus in the panel, so this is an ideal spot to install a fused expansion circuit using a STANDARD ATO size fuse tap (ie NOT a mini fuse tap) without disturbing anything else in the vehicle. If you need unswitched (continuous) power for dashcam parking mode operation, unused F28 is also available, but you risk running down the car battery if you don't drive the car very often.
But if I want park monitoring, can I use the F28 and add https://www.blackvue.com/power-magic-pro so that it won't run down car battery? Has it been tested with BMW systems? Or should I additionally purchase https://www.blackvue.com/product/pow...battery-b-124/ and stick with your suggested F59?

Or am I completely overthinking the park monitoring and should just rely on blackvues detection during a break in and have it wired exactly like you have it? I was concerned about people keying the car which I don't think would activate the motion sensor

Thanks in advance if you can help!
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      05-07-2019, 04:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryans11 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars View Post
I used block F50 with a fuse tap. That fuse controls the cigarette lighter for the front & rear of the vehicle. No problems whatsoever.
Hey thanks for the walkthrough, I have a 2018 m550i and was planning to have a local guy just install the DR750S-2CH with your instructions

Quote:
Studying the Z44 circuit diagrams revealed that fuse F59 is completely unused (indicated by a red box with an X) and is directly connected to the switched 12V power bus in the panel, so this is an ideal spot to install a fused expansion circuit using a STANDARD ATO size fuse tap (ie NOT a mini fuse tap) without disturbing anything else in the vehicle. If you need unswitched (continuous) power for dashcam parking mode operation, unused F28 is also available, but you risk running down the car battery if you don't drive the car very often.
But if I want park monitoring, can I use the F28 and add https://www.blackvue.com/power-magic-pro so that it won't run down car battery? Has it been tested with BMW systems? Or should I additionally purchase https://www.blackvue.com/product/pow...battery-b-124/ and stick with your suggested F59?

Or am I completely overthinking the park monitoring and should just rely on blackvues detection during a break in and have it wired exactly like you have it? I was concerned about people keying the car which I don't think would activate the motion sensor

Thanks in advance if you can help!
I just responded to your PM.
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      05-10-2019, 02:37 AM   #27
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Guys, just one alternative, as BMW is selling the "Advanced car eye" and it has a retrofit guide which can be used for aftermarket cameras as well.

BMW Advanced Car eye 2.0 Installation manual
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      05-10-2019, 02:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyggx View Post
Guys, just one alternative, as BMW is selling the "Advanced car eye" and it has a retrofit guide which can be used for aftermarket cameras as well.

BMW Advanced Car eye 2.0 Installation manual
FYI, if you have the rear sunshade this will not work in the back.
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      05-10-2019, 06:19 AM   #29
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I have the sunshade, but I would never spend the amount which BMW is asking for this camera.

I am using Viofo A129s and happy with it.
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      06-03-2019, 09:07 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirtualGuitars View Post
FYI, if you have the rear sunshade this will not work in the back.
[Edited - I finally got the dashcam powered!]

Hey everyone,

So I really appreciate this DIY guide and used it for my dashcam installation.

Great news for anyone looking for a dual dash cam but restricted by the rear power sun shade: I got the Thinkware F800 Pro dual dashcam and I also have the power rear sunshade - because of it's small form factor the rear camera CAN be installed without interfering with the motion of the rear sunshade!

Last edited by RLSinCO; 06-04-2019 at 08:32 AM..
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      06-04-2019, 01:46 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLSinCO View Post
[Edited - I finally got the dashcam powered!]

Hey everyone,

So I really appreciate this DIY guide and used it for my dashcam installation.

Great news for anyone looking for a dual dash cam but restricted by the rear power sun shade: I got the Thinkware F800 Pro dual dashcam and I also have the power rear sunshade - because of it's small form factor the rear camera CAN be installed without interfering with the motion of the rear sunshade!
nice, can you share a picture, how close does it get to the power rear sunshade
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      06-09-2019, 07:48 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLSinCO View Post
[Edited - I finally got the dashcam powered!]

Hey everyone,

So I really appreciate this DIY guide and used it for my dashcam installation.

Great news for anyone looking for a dual dash cam but restricted by the rear power sun shade: I got the Thinkware F800 Pro dual dashcam and I also have the power rear sunshade - because of it's small form factor the rear camera CAN be installed without interfering with the motion of the rear sunshade!
For the record there is a MASSIVE amount of room between the sun shade and the glass. I got a grdian and there is an immense amount of room.
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      11-06-2019, 08:09 AM   #33
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Just wanted to post to say many thanks for this writeup and info.

With the help of the info here, last night I installed a uniden R7 to the right of my rearview mirror. I ran the wire to the driver's side down the pillar so that I could have the smart wire box to quickly mute false readings.

I had to splice the included wire with a longer wire to bring it back to the right side to the fuse box per the instructions above. Worked like a charm.

Thanks again!!
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      12-11-2019, 12:43 PM   #34
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Hey Everyone!

FYI: I added the Escort ZW5 laser shifter with two additional rear sensors to my M550i yesterday. I already had the Max 360c hardwired to F50 which is the cigarette lighter circuit. Since the ZW5 requires it's own power cord to the Max 360c, I ran another direct wire kit to F59 for my M1 DashCam which previously powered the detector.

I can confirm the both F50 and F59 (unused switched) are both switched power and power down at the same time when the vehicle completes the shutdown cycle. The ZW5 power cable includes the wireless module which communicates wirelessly to the sensor box under the hood, so the dashcam had to be powered separately.
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      04-08-2020, 02:46 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyggx View Post
I have the sunshade, but I would never spend the amount which BMW is asking for this camera.

I am using Viofo A129s and happy with it.
Thinking of buying a Viofo, but not sure where to mount it that won't disturb my field of vision or the sensors behind the rearview mirror. Where did you mount yours?
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      05-04-2020, 02:38 AM   #36
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I found this post using my google-fu, so glad I did. Setup was easy, massive thanks to OP - I appreciate you.
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      08-26-2020, 09:35 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrahan View Post
REVISED March 30,2018

I recently simultaneously hardwired both a BlackVue 750s dashcam and a Uniden R3 radar detector in my new 2018 540i. The installation turned out to be easy by using a standard size fuse tap to activate unused fuse socket F59 in the Z44 fuse panel located behind the glove box, and required no special tools or modification of any existing wiring. I used a Blendmount mirror mount to hold the dash cam behind the rearview mirror and a sun visor clip for the radar detector.

I have prepared a step by step web page describing and illustrating my method, see http://www.eyephysics.com/BMWG30/bmwg30.html. I have revised my original instruction since this original posting with pictures of routing the power wires behind the airbag extension in the right pillar. The only tool needed was a T20 screwdriver and a bit of electrical tape to bundle the power wires with the existing wire bundle in the pillar located just behind the airbag. No rewiring or any changes to the original install were required other than simply removing the pillar cover and shifting the wires so as to remain behind the airbag instead of drooping over it.
Nice~
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      08-28-2020, 08:31 PM   #38
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I thought I'd add some information that I was struggling to find after a lot of unsuccessful searching but ended up having to figure it out myself.

I have a 2019 M550i G30, I picked up a blackvue DR900S-2CH and a Power Magic Pro as well as the fuse harness kit from the dashcam store.

I've determined that if you want park mode, you CANNOT wire to the front passenger fuse box, it has no BATT+ (yellow cable) supply that stays on, the entire fuse box shuts off after 5 minutes... You can only use this box if you don't want park mode.

I thought the rear fuse box was going to be a big pain, but it wasn't difficult at all, actually it's easier than front box since there's more room and you don't have to be upside-down and contorted to work on the box. I used F273 for my ACC+ which turns off after 5 minutes. I used F230 for my always-on BATT+ line. There's also a ground point right there that takes 10mm socket. I found it easiest to completely remove the screw, then strip the ground wire for 2 inches, wrap it around the screw, then put it back together and tighten. there's also a great spot in the right to stick the magic power box, I then bundled everything up, used electrical tape to keep it together, as well as tape the cigarette adapter to the magic pro end so there's no chance of it slipping out (it's not super-tight on it's own). there's plenty of room to put this wire bundle to the left and below the fuse box and I was back together in short-time.

I ran power along passenger side and the rear camera cable on drivers side - took all of 20 minutes to cleanly route both, the included tool was perfect. there's lots of room for one cable, but 2 cables is a bit much on the same side.

So the short of it - If you want park mode, save yourself an hour of screwing around with the front box or searching the web - it doesn't work. just go straight to the rear fuse panel.

One other thing - I expected the Power Magic pro's light to turn on at some point while I was wiring things up, it DOES NOT!. I wasted a lot of time and thought my box was bad. you figure with electric going to the box, it should light up right? NOPE! it only lights up after everything is connected and then you turn the car on for the first time... there must be something in the box that kills it until it gets power on both BATT+ & ACC+ and then from there on out the LED works fine all the time.

A second thought - the rear fuse panel has a paper card folded up there showing all your fuses.. if you need a new one of those go to https://www.bmw.com/fusecard to download the one specifically for your car. just plug your VIN in

Final thought - the fuse panel has no spare empty fuse spots. you'll see what appears to be empty slots, but if you look closer you can't actually put a fuse there since it's missing the underlying fuse receptacle on the board. you must use a piggyback fuse (or whatever they are called)

Last edited by kring; 08-28-2020 at 08:45 PM..
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