[nukezero]

Okay, I searched and it seems 99% of everyone has problems with the door lock BUT only with keyfob or on the outside.

Nobody talks about the door lock not working when they try to double-pull the handle on the inside.

I have a problem with the driver side that occasionally, 1 out of 30 times, the little nipple that pops up at the door doesn't want to pop up when I pull the handle twice, inside to unlock. I feel some heavy resistance when doing so, and continuing to pull it, feels like I might break something. It takes about 5-10 good pulls again, to finally get the door lock mechanism to unlock and then I can open my door.

Using the central electronic unlock/lock button works fine to unlock the car. one thing I noticed is that the nipple comes up a bit slow... is this tell-tale sign of a bad actuator?

Once it works though, that nipple starts to work fast and comes up at normal speed again. The problem then goes away for days and then comes back once a week.

What is my problem? Actuator, door handle, or the bowden cables?

One thing is for sure, it's definitely not the fuses, so don't tell me that. Door electronics are fine. It's the mechanical function that's not.

[NormE91]

I'm afraid I can't offer you any assistance, but I just love that you call the lock knobs nipples

You must be fairly young. In the good old days before every car had power locks, we had to pull our nipples to get out of the car.

[tc535i]

Originally Posted by NormE91

I'm afraid I can't offer you any assistance, but I just love that you call the lock knobs nipples

You must be fairly young. In the good old days before every car had power locks, we had to pull our nipples to get out of the car.

And if a girl didn't reach over and grab your nipple for you, she wasn't worth keeping.

[El Cheapo Loco]

It's most likely the actuator. There are a series of plastic gears inside the actuator. One of the gears on mine had a chunk broken off. So whenever the gear gets to that position, the door won't unlock. I suspect you have a similar situation.

DIY is not difficult. Be sure to get the actuator 'kit' that includes both sides for the price of one.

[Jkegarch]

I am having a similar issue on occasion. It seems every 10 times or so I cannot open the drivers door from the inside. I took this video of a recent occurrence.

The "button" rises up on the first pull of the inside handle normally however, when I release to do the second pull it goes back down. Repeated pulls on the handle do not help. Curiously, I can unlock the door from the central button on the dash and afterwards everything functions normally for a while.

I agree that it appears to be a mechanical malfunction rather than something electrical.

Did you ever resolve the issue?

Originally Posted by nukezero

Okay, I searched and it seems 99% of everyone has problems with the door lock BUT only with keyfob or on the outside.

Nobody talks about the door lock not working when they try to double-pull the handle on the inside.

I have a problem with the driver side that occasionally, 1 out of 30 times, the little nipple that pops up at the door doesn't want to pop up when I pull the handle twice, inside to unlock. I feel some heavy resistance when doing so, and continuing to pull it, feels like I might break something. It takes about 5-10 good pulls again, to finally get the door lock mechanism to unlock and then I can open my door.

Using the central electronic unlock/lock button works fine to unlock the car. one thing I noticed is that the nipple comes up a bit slow... is this tell-tale sign of a bad actuator?

Once it works though, that nipple starts to work fast and comes up at normal speed again. The problem then goes away for days and then comes back once a week.

What is my problem? Actuator, door handle, or the bowden cables?

One thing is for sure, it's definitely not the fuses, so don't tell me that. Door electronics are fine. It's the mechanical function that's not.

[Agentphish]

Gotta be the actuator. I had an issue where it wouldn't open from the inside or outside with the handle. Turns out my tint guy twisted the handle cable up on itself when he had the door panel off putting in the anti-scratch strips strips. That SUCKED because we couldn't get the door open at all, had to work on getting the panel off enough from the inside to see what was going on.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by nukezero

Okay, I searched and it seems 99% of everyone has problems with the door lock BUT only with keyfob or on the outside.

Nobody talks about the door lock not working when they try to double-pull the handle on the inside.

I have a problem with the driver side that occasionally, 1 out of 30 times, the little nipple that pops up at the door doesn't want to pop up when I pull the handle twice, inside to unlock. I feel some heavy resistance when doing so, and continuing to pull it, feels like I might break something. It takes about 5-10 good pulls again, to finally get the door lock mechanism to unlock and then I can open my door.

Using the central electronic unlock/lock button works fine to unlock the car. one thing I noticed is that the nipple comes up a bit slow... is this tell-tale sign of a bad actuator?

Once it works though, that nipple starts to work fast and comes up at normal speed again. The problem then goes away for days and then comes back once a week.

What is my problem? Actuator, door handle, or the bowden cables?

One thing is for sure, it's definitely not the fuses, so don't tell me that. Door electronics are fine. It's the mechanical function that's not.

Your e9x has separation anxiety?

[Meeni]

Check the fuses, the same thing happened to me it was that simple. Then, check the vapor barrier in the door for leaks, as it is the most probable cause for the fuse blowing up.

[pez319]

Bumping an old thread. Did anyone figure out if it was indeed the actuator that was bad? I have the same issue with my driver door.

Thanks

[Rick335i]

These issues will be caused by a faulty door lock actuator most of the time. If you continuously lock/unlock the car using the central lock button inside the car, you will see the affected lock not operate anymore that's your fault actuator but sometimes it times out. Let it rest a bit and try again. You can also smell a burning smell from the actuator knowing that it's going bad. Very rarely you will have a Bowden cable not routed correctly.

[pez319]

Originally Posted by Rick335i

These issues will be caused by a faulty door lock actuator most of the time. If you continuously lock/unlock the car using the central lock button inside the car, you will see the affected lock not operate anymore that's your fault actuator but sometimes it times out. Let it rest a bit and try again. You can also smell a burning smell from the actuator knowing that it's going bad. Very rarely you will have a Bowden cable not routed correctly.

It happens usually in the morning for me and then the rest of the day it's fine. I guess I'll look into replacing the actuator then.

Thanks!

[Rick335i]

Originally Posted by pez319

It happens usually in the morning for me and then the rest of the day it's fine. I guess I'll look into replacing the actuator then.

Thanks!

Just make sure you get the kit that comes with both left and right actuator from the dealer. The kit is actually cheaper than buying just 1.

[Daniel08E93]

Originally Posted by nukezero

Okay, I searched and it seems 99% of everyone has problems with the door lock BUT only with keyfob or on the outside.

Nobody talks about the door lock not working when they try to double-pull the handle on the inside.

I have a problem with the driver side that occasionally, 1 out of 30 times, the little nipple that pops up at the door doesn't want to pop up when I pull the handle twice, inside to unlock. I feel some heavy resistance when doing so, and continuing to pull it, feels like I might break something. It takes about 5-10 good pulls again, to finally get the door lock mechanism to unlock and then I can open my door.

Using the central electronic unlock/lock button works fine to unlock the car. one thing I noticed is that the nipple comes up a bit slow... is this tell-tale sign of a bad actuator?

Once it works though, that nipple starts to work fast and comes up at normal speed again. The problem then goes away for days and then comes back once a week.

What is my problem? Actuator, door handle, or the bowden cables?

One thing is for sure, it's definitely not the fuses, so don't tell me that. Door electronics are fine. It's the mechanical function that's not.

Hey cane across this because I'm having the same exact issue with my car now, did you ever find a fix for it?

[nukezero]

Yes, it's a bad door lock actuator. It's wearing out and needs to be replaced asap