[Emeye]

Help!

Below is my report from BMWhat.

Today the ABS, DSC, brake lights etc came on and have stayed on.

Seems a lot of fault codes, could it indicate the battery is on its last legs? I was also, showing the steering wheel lock error a few weeks ago but that has gone.

I was wondering if this could be related to me fitting my pioneer appradio headunit and a large amp with sub?



OBDII

Version: 18

Device: >samsung< >m3xx< >GT-I9305<

Motor Control:

Engine / Motor

ECU OK, no Fault Code

ABS / DSC / Brake:

Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC

Fehler: DSC switch failure / Front brake pads misprint / Wheel speed / Wheel speed sensors

Code: 5E5B

Fehler: Pressure sensor is defective right / ECU internally: BIST error / Valve HSV2

Code: 5DCC

Fehler: Pressure sensor defective left rear / Valve UPS1 / Illegal state / Valve USV1

Code: 5DBC

Fehler: Pump motor faulty / DSC Intern / Low voltage sensor cluster / Internal ECU operating error DSC / DSC ECU intern / Addressing test failure / DM TL pump motor power stage

Code: 5DF0

Fehler: Pump motor connector damaged / DSC ECU intern / Internal ECU operating error DSC / Sensor cluster internal error / Internal Control / DSC Intern

Code: 5DF1

Airbag:

Advanced Crash and Safety Management (ACSM)

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Transmission Control:

Instrument cluster:

Instrument cluster / Kombiinstrument

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Light/Rain Control:

Heating / AC:

Air conditioning / Klimaanlage

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Immobilizer System:

CAS

Fehler: Input P N signal fault from EGS

Code: A0B1

Fehler: EWS4 fault

Code: A10A

Fehler: CAS Supply Error

Code: A0B2

Fehler: unknown failure

Code: A119

Fehler: Driver KL15 1 FZG KS

Code: A0BE

Fehler: Driver KL15 2 FZG KS

Code: A0BF

Fehler: Driver KL15 3 FZG KS

Code: A0C0

Park distance control:

Park Distance Control / PDC

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Cruise Control:

Sunroof / Roof:

Roof / Dach

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Audio/Navi/Communication:

Seats:

Seats / Sitze

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Seats / Sitze

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Systems:

Junction Box Passenger / Beifahrer

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Fuel pump / Kraftstoffpumpe

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Anti-theft alarm system:

Interior protection / Innenraumschutz

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Theft alarm / Diebstahl Warnanlage

ECU OK, no Fault Code

Chassis:

Body:

Fussraummodul /FRM

Fehler: Passenger side mirror / VIN

Code: 9CD1

Fehler: seat belt driver

Code: 9CD8

Other:

[essex_lad]

My car also thrown up a load of errors not long ago but I think it was where my parking sensor cable was broken and it kept shorting it.

[old grey steve]

5DF0 & 5DF1 are for me a common sight at present, they are hydro unit internal fails, battery power an/will effect all sorts of things when critical status is reached.

On the battery front best as a first measure get it swapped out once done you're not finished as the battery requires registering to the car(even if you swap like for like)as you'll need to allow the car to accilitise to its new found battery power. Once done faults can be cleared then potentially yoy can re scan to see what returns.

On the hydro front yes again can be cleared but usually faults return(the actual fault msy have been milling away in the background for some time as we have found seems a certain action/event eventually triggers the tell tale warning light)we do history checks via diagnostic and it will record the first to last fault entry in mileage/date and sometimes the faults been present for many weeks/months.

But on the hydro unit from yours being a 325i isn't the cheaper £148 repair kit as found on the 320's you can get a repair kit for most of the 6 cylinder models(though they are hard to locate but the kit alone is over £900)the other alternative is to have the unit removed sent away for repair (cars off the road sadly for a good 10days then once returned it can be re fitted brake fluid change can be done faults cleared then you're off)and as its your old unit it won't need coding either as its alrwsy paired to the car, any half decent garage can this.

For the battery side of things you need to find someone/somewhere that can code the battery to the car, either a BMW Indy or if you have to the dealer, but on here you never know locally there maywell be someone who can assist re aligning the battery.

[David c]

Can you code a battery using bmwhat app?

[Emeye]

Thanks for the great feedback - I reset all my errors using BMWhat this morning and I've not seen any errors since.

I may be optimistically hoping it is all battery related, but after about 100miles of very varied driving including foggy B-road, motorways and even a stretch of dodgy, old, cobbled street I've not seen any more fault codes - the traction control was working fine as I went over a cattle grid going onto the M62 and I gave it a couple of BMWhat scans during the day and when I got home - fingers crossed.

I believe you can register the battery with BMWhat but it is an optional in-app purchase - TBH, I'm a bit baffled about this battery registering option as I thought a battery was a battery and I've been too busy to do any serious googling - it isn't something I've come across before despite owning quite a few Beemers.

[Sensible_]

Battery registration is a MUST.

I'd only recommend using:

ISTA-D
DIS
TOOL32
Autologic

For performing registration.

This is why it's needed:

Each type of battery has a "charging map" that BMW has created from research. This changes the characteristics of the alternator's output depending on how long the battery has been in the vehicle. This "timer" is what starts when you register the new battery. There are also different maps for batteries of different amp/hour capacities.

(Quote from BMW Tech)

Obviously the car will still run without registration but the life of the battery will be drastically reduced. If you are spending £150 Plus on a 92ah AGM then it's best to get the most out of it!

If you upgrade / downgrade / change battery type then it will also need coding to the vehicle CAS unit.

If you are seriously looking I'd recommend exide as its BMW OEM. carparts4less have a decent price for them at the moment. Installation is a DIY with nothing more than a 10mm and 13mm ratchet required.

Also, BMW advised certain battery's are upgraded. E.g. If you have a 90ah battery BMW now install 92ah.

[Emeye]

So there is a chance that if the battery has been changed before, it may not have had this registration?

[Sensible_]

You can check with DIS / ISTA-D Using the activity "battery replacement".

It tells you 3rd last, 2nd last, last battery change at XXXXXkm

Although I believe this may be reset if you've had a replacement DDE/DME.