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Brake bleeding went a little wrong!!!
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08-05-2015, 01:50 AM | #1 |
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Brake bleeding went a little wrong!!!
Bleed my brake using the youtube video, followed every step so I am thinking the video must have miss a step. Suck out as much brake fluid as possible from brake resevoir then Bleed from right rear to left rear front right then front left top off resevoir. Used the Baverian auto sport pressure bleeder. Problem: If i don't pump the brake peddle atleast three times befor starting the car the brake warning light comes on. What did I miss, thanks for any help very much!
Last edited by VABMW81; 08-07-2015 at 01:10 AM.. |
08-05-2015, 03:03 AM | #3 |
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Did you empty the complete system and then filled up or did you just replaced the fluid without getting any air in?
You might have air in the ABS pump, if you did empty the system. You can bleed the ABS pump through INPA/ISTA or whatever the software is called if thats the case. |
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08-06-2015, 02:40 PM | #6 |
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yeah, I have never emptied the reservoir when bleeding my brakes. I just top off with fresh fluid, and bleed the line until I see the new fluid start coming out (while topping off the reservoir as needed).
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08-07-2015, 01:16 AM | #7 |
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Thanks guys for the replies, but I used this product and video to do the change.
it's design to make sure no air gets into the line. |
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08-08-2015, 07:23 AM | #9 |
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I gotta ask, WTF is the "gravity method"?
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-08-2015, 07:35 AM | #10 |
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OP, the proper way to bleed brakes is to remove the old fluid from the reservoir and add new fluid to it. Then (using a presser bleeder) fill the pressure bleeder with fresh fluid, then pressurize the system to around 18 PSI, then start bleeding the brake calipers starting that the right rear (longest distance from the master cylinder) to the front left (nearest). While you are bleeding the right rear you may want to pump the brake pedal a few times just to make sure the master cylinder does not have air in it. And you don't need to open the caliper bleeder valves too much. And of course you are attaching a tube to the bleeder valve and feeding the spent fluid into a catch can that won't allow air to back-feed into the caliper, right? I've probably done over 50 brake bleeds in my lifetime (mostly the old school "helper" procedure) using a similar method to the above. I've recently acquired a Motive power bleeder (what a Godsend) and done 6 or so using it so far. Pressure bleeding is the best method IMO; I wish I adopted it years ago.
Some people think it is not necessary to fill the pressure bleeder (because they don't want to clean the pressure bleeder afterwards - lazy), but that method risks getting air into the system. It is quite easy to bleed through a full reservoir without realizing it.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 08-08-2015 at 07:42 AM.. |
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08-10-2015, 01:36 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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08-10-2015, 07:22 PM | #12 |
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If you have a pressure bleeder you do not need to pump the brakes. Thats the whole point of a pressure bleeder. You have introduced air into the brake system. You need to thoroughly bleed the lines to remove all the air. Do each caliper and keep bleeding until no more air pockets come out. You should see them in the hose to the bleeder bottle at each caliper. I think you should do it a few times to make sure all the air is out of the lines. You dont want your brakes going soft on you at the wrong time.
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08-10-2015, 07:26 PM | #13 |
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My SA at the dealership that services my car swears by pressure bleeders.
He said they rarely use INPA software to activate the ABS pump.
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08-11-2015, 02:45 PM | #14 | |
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I used to fill the pressure bleeder with break fluid, then I stopped doing it after several experiences. It is actually more work to constantly watch the break fluid level, and disconnect bleeder and refill it in between wheels as it gets low, than cleaning the pressure bleeder afterwards from break fluid. So it is not about laziness I once sprayed break fluid all over the engine bay, when I was bleeding the rear wheels, it decided to rupture its hose, which was getting old and cracking from inside. It was a lot of work trying to clean that mess in a rush to wipe it all off before it eats away the paint of the various parts. Then each time I was using it, when I was done, there was always fluid in the hose right on the section on top of the brake reservoir. So each time I was disconnecting it after done, some fluid was running down around the brake reservoir. That is also messy. No fluid in the pressure bleeder no such mess for the car. It means you will have to at least once disconnect and refill the reservoir not to run it dry, but I find it better than cleaning break fluid inside the engine bay. It is a matter of choice. If I remember correctly Bentley manual also says to use pressure bleeder without filling it with fluid. |
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08-11-2015, 04:44 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-19-2015, 03:43 AM | #16 |
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Thanks guys for the in put good help!
Thanks Efrhreeh you were right on! |
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