[Averdi]

Hey guys. I still have a shake from 40-55mph. It gets more noticeable the harder I drive/brake with the car. I brought it to a BMW tech and he said he's 90% sure it's a sticking brake caliper. I replaced control arms, thrust arms , wheels and tires checked, road force balanced twice , and a new alignment. The wheel also bears to the right a little bit. My question is does it sound like a sticking caliper? The one wheel is harder to spin and doesn't spin as smooth when on s lift, also it was a decent amount hotter after checking the temps after a hard drive. He said I should replaced the caliper, any other suggestions? Is there a way to service it or does it have to be replaced? Also will 335is calipers for my e92 335i?

[335commuter]

You could try to replace the pins the caliper slides on. They are relatively cheap. However, of the piston itself is sticking, that won't help. Calipers are pretty cheap. Turner sells them for $90 install is simple as well. I would just buy a new one and be done

[Averdi]

Originally Posted by 335commuter

You could try to replace the pins the caliper slides on. They are relatively cheap. However, of the piston itself is sticking, that won't help. Calipers are pretty cheap. Turner sells them for $90 install is simple as well. I would just buy a new one and be done

I've been looking for calipers online and cheapest I've found is 350$?? Could you post s link? Thanks

[335commuter]

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-...-calipers.aspx

Also check ecs tining, etc.

[Averdi]

Originally Posted by 335commuter

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-...-calipers.aspx

Also check ecs tining, etc.

Thanks, you would trust a rebuilt
One?

[335commuter]

Originally Posted by Averdi

Thanks, you would trust a rebuilt
One?

Absolutely, provided it comes from a reputable company like turner or ecs. Liability is simply too great to do a half ass job.

[Averdi]

Originally Posted by 335commuter

Absolutely, provided it comes from a reputable company like turner or ecs. Liability is simply too great to do a half ass job.

Appreciate it. And refundable core charge...what exactly does that mean ?

[335commuter]

It means that they send you the caliper and you pay a deposit that they refund/cancel the charge once they get your old part back.

[Averdi]

Just ordered a rebuilt caliper along with new brake fluid

[335commuter]

Let us kno how it goes.

[Averdi]

Anyone else have any input??

[Averdi]

no one...

[Joey911]

I suspect my caliper is sticking also.

The fronts pulls left hard sometimes right on 100 flat surface when I come to a stop... If I let the steering wheel go, it will turn more than 90 degree to one side sometimes.

After it heats up on highway, it starts to pull to the left side, and I have to hold the steering wheel to the right a little alllllll time, annoying.

Under hard braking, the car dips to left side very very very obviously, doesn't brake straight...

Changes all the guide bushing but not pins, no difference!

[Joey911]

I suspect my caliper is sticking also.

The fronts pulls left hard sometimes right on 100 flat surface when I come to a stop... If I let the steering wheel go, it will turn more than 90 degree to one side sometimes.

After it heats up on highway, it starts to pull to the left side, and I have to hold the steering wheel to the right a little alllllll time, annoying.

Under hard braking, the car dips to left side very very very obviously, doesn't brake straight...

Changes all the guide bushing but not pins, no difference!

[robthewrench]

Sounds like a sticking caliper. Could also be the early signs of a wheel bearing failure. A rebuilt caliper is fine. You can sometimes find a rebuild kit and rebuild them yourself, but I don't have that kind of time....

You will probably go through quite a bit of brake fluid during the flushing process since you are starting with an empty caliper. You'll need more than the typical flush.

[Joey911]

Originally Posted by robthewrench

Sounds like a sticking caliper. Could also be the early signs of a wheel bearing failure. A rebuilt caliper is fine. You can sometimes find a rebuild kit and rebuild them yourself, but I don't have that kind of time....

You will probably go through quite a bit of brake fluid during the flushing process since you are starting with an empty caliper. You'll need more than the typical flush.

I'll try to bleed for bubble today, cause the breaking is too inconsistent.

I was gonna start a post about my wheel bearing case just for backup. So few thousand miles ago, I had this loud af humming noise when I curve/turn right at speed. It usually indicate the left wheel bearing is bad.. Right? But it turns out it's my right wheel bearing that's bad a week ago... I even changed the rear left bearing... Sigh, waste of money

So yea, it happens on the opposite side, now it's fixed

[vapore0n]

I think Ive read that to diagnose a wheel bearing you have to turn to the side you want to put more force on.
Turning right would put more force on the right side bearing, thus indicating if this side is failing.
That's how Ive done it and has worked for me.

[Joey911]

Originally Posted by vapore0n

I think Ive read that to diagnose a wheel bearing you have to turn to the side you want to put more force on.
Turning right would put more force on the right side bearing, thus indicating if this side is failing.
That's how Ive done it and has worked for me.

I thought turning right will put pressure on left? And kinda "lift" the right side

[vapore0n]

Originally Posted by JoeyWong911

I thought turning right will put pressure on left? And kinda "lift" the right side

I may be wrong on this, based on quick google.
Rather made sense in my head that turning right would cause a heavy load that causes the dip + sway bar to react on other side.

[alexwhittemore]

The piston could be sticking, but another common thing (or so I read) is just that gunked pins prevent half the caliper from sliding (since these are floating calipers). The first thing I'd do is disassemble the brake equipment, clean the crap out of it with elbow grease and maybe brake parts cleaner, and reassemble it all with proper lube to see if the calipers ride on the pins better.

If that's not your problem, you won't have fixed anything. But you'll be out a couple hours and basically no money to check. Maybe $10 for lube and brake cleaner.

[Averdi]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

The piston could be sticking, but another common thing (or so I read) is just that gunked pins prevent half the caliper from sliding (since these are floating calipers). The first thing I'd do is disassemble the brake equipment, clean the crap out of it with elbow grease and maybe brake parts cleaner, and reassemble it all with proper lube to see if the calipers ride on the pins better.

If that's not your problem, you won't have fixed anything. But you'll be out a couple hours and basically no money to check. Maybe $10 for lube and brake cleaner.

Already ordered brake fluid and rebuilt caliper. Hopefully this fixes the problem. I'm praying

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Averdi

Hey guys. I still have a shake from 40-55mph. It gets more noticeable the harder I drive/brake with the car. I brought it to a BMW tech and he said he's 90% sure it's a sticking brake caliper. I replaced control arms, thrust arms , wheels and tires checked, road force balanced twice , and a new alignment. The wheel also bears to the right a little bit. My question is does it sound like a sticking caliper? The one wheel is harder to spin and doesn't spin as smooth when on s lift, also it was a decent amount hotter after checking the temps after a hard drive. He said I should replaced the caliper, any other suggestions? Is there a way to service it or does it have to be replaced? Also will 335is calipers for my e92 335i?

I would replace the guide pins on both sides. Make sure you lube up the pins heavily with a good synthetic break grease. Below is a link on Amazon to the very best grease I have ever found.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05361-Sila...EKRF61SKE9NSPH

-50 to 3000 degrees. Hard to go wrong there. I would suggest filling the boot about 1/2 way and putting some on the new pins as well.

If you really, want to go cheap, you could put some sand paper or emery cloth to the old pins and shine them up and the reinsert them in with the grease.