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      08-28-2015, 08:16 AM   #1
NJ13-M235i
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Good deal or ripped off?

I just placed an order for my M235i Coupe Xdrive a few weeks back and wanted to see what you guys think about the deal I'm getting.

MSRP - $55,650.00
Selling Price - $52,000.00
Down Payment - $0
Term/Miles - 36 mo / 10k
Monthly Payments - $800.00

Am I getting ripped off???? I had another SA at another BMW dealer (pops got into an 2016 X6 M-Sport ) tell me he could have got it down another $40.00 - $50.00 a month based on this same exact build and terms. I want to save that money but also think he may be pulling my leg. Also I don't want to start my build all over again ( I'm about 3 weeks in ).

Note: I have a couple M-Performance parts ( Kidney grills, splitter, diffuser ) but they have been residualized into my payments don't think it would make a huge difference. Please help me out here guys, let me know what you think
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      08-30-2015, 06:41 PM   #2
BLK235iNJ
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What's the buyout?
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      08-31-2015, 09:47 PM   #3
Cyberdemon
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The sale price seems reasonable. I think you are just getting hurt by the new residuals being much lower and the fact that from what you're describing you've rolled EVERYTHING into the payment.

My payment is a good bit lower but I paid the fees up front and had higher residuals.
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      09-01-2015, 12:13 PM   #4
NJ13-M235i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK235iNJ View Post
What's the buyout?
Not sure tbh I am going to have to check that out.
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      09-01-2015, 12:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
The sale price seems reasonable. I think you are just getting hurt by the new residuals being much lower and the fact that from what you're describing you've rolled EVERYTHING into the payment.

My payment is a good bit lower but I paid the fees up front and had higher residuals.
Yea that's what I was thinking. Between the lower residual and like you said everything in the payments it seemed about right but I've gotten a fair amount of feedback saying I'm overpaying. Gonna have to start visiting some dealers again to cross check the payments.
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      09-01-2015, 02:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ13-M235i View Post
Yea that's what I was thinking. Between the lower residual and like you said everything in the payments it seemed about right but I've gotten a fair amount of feedback saying I'm overpaying. Gonna have to start visiting some dealers again to cross check the payments.
You shouldn't need to cross check the payments, you can run the numbers you should be getting yourself with any lease calculator.

Figure out the money factor you were given (dealers can bump this up, or if your credit score is poor that may hurt you), and the total fees and taxes you've paid.

The residual value can be found on the forums.

Base a good deal (invoice price) on 7% off MSRP and figure out how far off you are from invoice.

If you need more specific info you can check the ordering forum here. Ultimately you should never sign a lease until you've taken a look at every one of the numbers in the calculation and made sure it is correct. I've had dealers try to inflate the bank fee, inflate the money factor, even inflate the cap cost at the last minute.

You take your eyes off them for one minute and they'll gladly throw the numbers around to make you think you're getting a good deal. Also the reason why to never trade in a car, it just mucks things up even further.
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      09-03-2015, 11:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
You shouldn't need to cross check the payments, you can run the numbers you should be getting yourself with any lease calculator.

Figure out the money factor you were given (dealers can bump this up, or if your credit score is poor that may hurt you), and the total fees and taxes you've paid.

The residual value can be found on the forums.

Base a good deal (invoice price) on 7% off MSRP and figure out how far off you are from invoice.

If you need more specific info you can check the ordering forum here. Ultimately you should never sign a lease until you've taken a look at every one of the numbers in the calculation and made sure it is correct. I've had dealers try to inflate the bank fee, inflate the money factor, even inflate the cap cost at the last minute.

You take your eyes off them for one minute and they'll gladly throw the numbers around to make you think you're getting a good deal. Also the reason why to never trade in a car, it just mucks things up even further.
So the residual is 57% and the money factor is .0015. Selling price is at $52,000.00 or $51,000.00 depending if i get to use my drive event incentive. Is it reasonable for my payments to be $806.00 a month???
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      09-03-2015, 03:36 PM   #8
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That seems like it's in the ballpark for the $52k sale price. The only missing # is fees but based on that # it seems to make sense (including first months payment in with the total amount).

If you were to get the drive event incentive for the $51k, and pay the ~$2225 fees (based on the $806 number) up front your payment would be down to $706 per month. So that's $100/month difference if you prefer a lower payment vs lower up front cost. You're paying slightly more by rolling the interest on top of the fees.
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