[Rollo`]

so I bought replacement control arms and was all set to diy it today. Got the car up on jacks, went to remove the lower arm on the passenger side, could not get the nut off of it--the end connected to the steering knuckle I guess it is called.

I loosened it up some but then it just got stuck and would come no further. Even with a breaker bar on the Torx bit holding the bolt I could not get it to budge.

I finally jus tightened it back up--guess I'll take it to an indy. Anyone experienced this kind of problem before?

Also, when I tightened it back up the suspension wasn't compressed--will that cause me a problem if I can't get the car to the indy soon?

[avocet]

Was the exposed thread corroded? If the nut has to turn past some corroded threads they will hang up. Penetrating oil of your choice will help if this is your issue. As will a wire wheel or brush.

And yes, tightening uncompressed will lead to issues. If yoi are just going to make it to a shop I wouldn't be too concerned tho.

[Rollo`]

I put pb blaster on it and didn't see any obvious problem that should have prevented it from turning. There was only like 1 mm of thread left outside the nut. It was just crazy how stuck it was.

I am hoping I can get it in on Tuesday but it might be later in the week.

[avocet]

Hmm could the end be mushroomed from being hit by a hammer?

[jin]

You could hacksaw it off if all else fails

[brocklanders]

I changed mine when the car was new, at 2k miles and had a problem getting one side off. I had a friend come over with a cordless impact and alot of wd40 and it finally came off. So I then ran out and bought a cordless impact best two hundred dollars I ever spent.

[matteblue3er]

Originally Posted by Rollo`

Also, when I tightened it back up the suspension wasn't compressed--will that cause me a problem if I can't get the car to the indy soon?

If you changed the inner bushing on the subframe, yes, you will prematurely wear the bushing.

You need to pre-load the suspension when tightening bushings....ball joints do not need to be pre-loaded.

If you plan on changing them, there is nothing to worry about. They will fail in 5-10k miles versus the 30-40k they usually last.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by avocet

And yes, tightening uncompressed will lead to issues. If yoi are just going to make it to a shop I wouldn't be too concerned tho.

Originally Posted by matteblue3er

[/B]
If you changed the inner bushing on the subframe, yes, you will prematurely wear the bushing.
You need to pre-load the suspension when tightening bushings....ball joints do not need to be pre-loaded.
If you plan on changing them, there is nothing to worry about. They will fail in 5-10k miles versus the 30-40k they usually last.

Only for the upper control arm. The lower can be installed with the suspension unloaded. I t would not make any difference. This is for both M and non M.

[Rollo`]

Originally Posted by feuer

Only for the upper control arm. The lower can be installed with the suspension unloaded. I t would not make any difference. This is for both M and non M.

I dropped it off at the indy yesterday afternoon and they installed both for me today. I'll be picking it up tomorrow.

Is there a way I can tell if they were tightened with the suspension loaded? Also is it really only the inner side that has to be tightened while loaded?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Rollo`

Is there a way I can tell if they were tightened with the suspension loaded? Also is it really only the inner side that has to be tightened while loaded?

yes, is only the inner bushing on the upper arm. You can tell by whether the bushing is twisted or not. You need to check with the suspension loaded.