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      10-12-2015, 12:50 PM   #1
hanszilla
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Tracking a (near) stock F30 335.

Hi all, so I'm thinking of tracking a near stock 335i. Nothing special has been done to it. This is the first and last time this car will go near the race track.

The 2 things that was added to the car are the MPPK and the MPE. With that said, will it be okay to survive 1 track session ?

Thanks all!
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      10-13-2015, 03:04 AM   #2
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I track with my completely stock 335i. If you are doing this the first time you should be fine. You may want to flush the brake fluid and change your engine oil first though.
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      10-13-2015, 02:23 PM   #3
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Just go for it. I track mine once or twice a year and don't do anything special before tracking it. First time on the track was exactly how it left the factory. Second time I had added mppk, mpbk and mlsd. Thats how it is now. I normally have the service done in shorter intervals than recommended but except from that nothing special is done.

Next time however I intend to have a set of tires only to be used for the track. I drive my front tires so hard that they rumble when I brake afterwards. Quite annoying when the car is used as a dayli driver.
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      10-13-2015, 02:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feddersen View Post
Just go for it. I track mine once or twice a year and don't do anything special before tracking it. First time on the track was exactly how it left the factory. Second time I had added mppk, mpbk and mlsd. Thats how it is now. I normally have the service done in shorter intervals than recommended but except from that nothing special is done.

Next time however I intend to have a set of tires only to be used for the track. I drive my front tires so hard that they rumble when I brake afterwards. Quite annoying when the car is used as a dayli driver.
Best to torque your nuts and check your pressures. Obviously remove anything loose in the car otherwise it liable to hit you if you have an off or bash the sides of the car on hard cornering. Check other levels to be on safe side.

Flushing the oil and changing oil filter is a good idea to get rid of any engine damaging bits since after a while oil filters are only 85ish% efficient.

Does the rumbling eventually stop? Could be glazed pads caused by overheating.
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      10-13-2015, 03:16 PM   #5
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Don't worry too much about the mods, your stock car is just fine. Just like what people said at above..do the maintenance properly and enjoy
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      10-14-2015, 01:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjlees View Post
Best to torque your nuts and check your pressures. Obviously remove anything loose in the car otherwise it liable to hit you if you have an off or bash the sides of the car on hard cornering. Check other levels to be on safe side.

Flushing the oil and changing oil filter is a good idea to get rid of any engine damaging bits since after a while oil filters are only 85ish% efficient.

Does the rumbling eventually stop? Could be glazed pads caused by overheating.
You are right. I do check and adjust the tire pressure ;-). Besides that I do not have loose things in my car. Not in the cabin nor in the trunk.

The rumbling is for sure coming from the tires. I don't know what it is called in English. In Danish we call it "heel and tow". The rubber blocks on the tire are simply higher in the front and lower in the back making them look like saw teath. It gives a humming noise when braking and it dissappears slowly but may take a couple of thousand miles and never dissappears completely.

Last time I tracked the car my pads glazed a little but after a couple of miles that was gone again.
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      10-14-2015, 02:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feddersen View Post
The rumbling is for sure coming from the tires. I don't know what it is called in English. In Danish we call it "heel and tow". The rubber blocks on the tire are simply higher in the front and lower in the back making them look like saw teath. It gives a humming noise when braking and it dissappears slowly but may take a couple of thousand miles and never dissappears completely.
Maybe get a specialist to setup your geometry for fast road or track use ? I had a similar issue until I had the tracking reset.


Heel/toe tire wear: This happens when one side of the tread blocks is wearing faster than the other side circumferentially. When you run your hand over the tread blocks, they will feel like saw teeth. Heel/toe wear typically occurs in a shoulder rib and is often caused by excessive positive or negative toe.
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      10-15-2015, 12:17 AM   #8
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cool! I just want to be sure, thank you all for the 2 cents.
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      10-15-2015, 11:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjlees View Post
Maybe get a specialist to setup your geometry for fast road or track use ? I had a similar issue until I had the tracking reset.
I am sure a different setup could make a change but here is a close up of my tire doing a corner. When I am on the track i use 3.2bar and I have not stretched my tires ;-)
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On the other hand I have only tracked my car 0,6% of all the km i'v been driving and I do not want to compromise my dayli comfort with a track setup. I'd rather live with the consequenses of having a second set of tires.

@hanszilla The tire pressure may be quite high but remember to have a safety margin because the heated air will add pressure to the tire.
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      10-15-2015, 03:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feddersen View Post
I am sure a different setup could make a change but here is a close up of my tire doing a corner. When I am on the track i use 3.2bar and I have not stretched my tires ;-)

On the other hand I have only tracked my car 0,6% of all the km i'v been driving and I do not want to compromise my dayli comfort with a track setup. I'd rather live with the consequenses of having a second set of tires.

@hanszilla The tire pressure may be quite high but remember to have a safety margin because the heated air will add pressure to the tire.
Cool photo!

I tend to drop the pressures on the front to get the turn in but the side walls are quite stiff so it's ok.
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      10-15-2015, 03:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjlees View Post
Cool photo!

I tend to drop the pressures on the front to get the turn in but the side walls are quite stiff so it's ok.
...and mine are extra stiff because they are run flats
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      10-15-2015, 08:18 PM   #12
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You can take any car to the track. I took a bone stock fiat 500 out for a full track day at sonoma raceway. The kicker is it was my rental car hahahaha

It was probably one of the most fun days at the track I've ever had regardless of how powerful/fast or modified the car was.
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      10-17-2015, 12:25 PM   #13
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Naturally the car should be warm before the first lap. And after the hot laps you should cool of the brakes and the engine with driving an off-lap. Just make sure brakes are not too hot anymore before stopping the car.
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      10-19-2015, 06:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oceanview View Post
Naturally the car should be warm before the first lap. And after the hot laps you should cool of the brakes and the engine with driving an off-lap. Just make sure brakes are not too hot anymore before stopping the car.
Ah, yea I plan on driving it to the track from my house which is about 50 miles away or so and when I get to the track I will drive it lightly for the first 2-3 laps to make sure nothing is going to blow up on me. Have you had experience with warped pads and rotors after 1 track session ?
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      10-20-2015, 01:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanszilla View Post
Have you had experience with warped pads and rotors after 1 track session ?
No. I just had the chance to track on a small track where max. speed reached was about 100mph and then brake down to 20mph.

However you could ruin the brakes easily on a track. During your session you should immediately slow down, when you feel they get spongy and loose braking power. If you don't cool them off, risk is high, that the pads/rotors overheat. Just go once over the critical temperature point, and then they are gone.
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      11-10-2015, 02:11 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oceanview View Post
No. I just had the chance to track on a small track where max. speed reached was about 100mph and then brake down to 20mph.

However you could ruin the brakes easily on a track. During your session you should immediately slow down, when you feel they get spongy and loose braking power. If you don't cool them off, risk is high, that the pads/rotors overheat. Just go once over the critical temperature point, and then they are gone.
+1
Stock pads will fade easily and stock fluid can boil. If you feel your brakes not functioning like they did on the last lap or last corner, take a cool down lap because you do not want to find out what's next.
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