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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Please HEEEEEEEEEEEELP



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      11-21-2015, 10:28 PM   #1
Dimka
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I have 2009 bmw 335i(N54)

I was driving my car and suddenly my YELLOW engine temperature light comes up., After 30 sec RED engine temperature light came up...I stop to see what's wrong and decided to open my coolant reservoir! The fluid started to bubble up and come out. I also noticed ENGINE oil in the tank! After 15 mins of staying on a side of the road I started the car again and it was fine for 5 mins and then started doing the same thing . Anyways . Got home, went on forums and people said that its ELECTRIC WATER PUMP/Thermostat. Okay... First I checked fuses for water pump- they were fine. Second took out a plug that goes to a water pump to checked if I have any voltage coming to the pump . YES I had voltage. Third I did bleeding procedure to see if water pump/thermostat were running. FAIL , pump did NOT turn on.
Went on ECStuning, bought brand new electric water pump and new thermostat with coolant as well($475.00)
Bought OIL FILTER HOUSING GASKET from Genuine BMW ($35)
Today I flushed coolant system(coolant hoses, radiator, etc.,)
Replaced water pump and thermostat.
Replaced oil filter housing gasket(because I thought that it was a cause to kill water pump)
Put FRESH BMW( blue) COOLANT. Put NEW OIL/FILTER.
Finally was happy to test drive the car. Started it, left it running for 15mins.
Water pump still doesn't work
Time to test drive . As soon as I pull of my drive way F*king Engine temperature sensor comes up again. I stop on the side of the road and opened a cap and it has SAME PROBLEM!!!!!!
WHAT CAN IT BE???? Please help me out . TEXT MY PHONE NUMBER 215-833-0855
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      11-21-2015, 10:33 PM   #2
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leave the under tray cover off refill and do the bleeding procedure again and check for leaks. i hate those trays and left the middle one off. my pump failed at 103k had i noticed obvious leaks ill fix it asap, luckily my light came on at home so i took care of it. The tray normally collects all the fluids and gets dumped off when youre on the road.
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      11-21-2015, 10:36 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #Tee
leave the under tray cover off refill and do the bleeding procedure again and check for leaks. i hate those trays and left the middle one off. my pump failed at 103k had i noticed obvious leaks ill fix it asap, luckily my light came on at home so i took care of it. The tray normally collects all the fluids and gets dumped off when youre on the road.
Can't do bleed procedure ! Pump dot work . BRAND NEW PUMP DONT WORK
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      11-21-2015, 10:41 PM   #4
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Engine oil in your coolant does not sound too good. That can be a symptom of a blown head gasket. Was there water in the oil?
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      11-21-2015, 10:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgoens
Engine oil in your coolant does not sound too good. That can be a symptom of a blown head gasket. Was there water in the oil?
Nope ! No water in oil! Checked for gases with BLOCK TEST FLUID and it didn't show any symptoms of blown gasket ...
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      11-22-2015, 03:14 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Can't do bleed procedure ! Pump dot work . BRAND NEW PUMP DONT WORK
If the new pump is hooked up correctly and doesn't work, then shouldn't you return it for a new one first ?
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      11-22-2015, 08:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limitdown
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Originally Posted by Dimka View Post
Can't do bleed procedure ! Pump dot work . BRAND NEW PUMP DONT WORK
If the new pump is hooked up correctly and doesn't work, then shouldn't you return it for a new one first ?
I don't know if it's a problem in pump or with electricity. Checking connectors with multimeter and shows that it works !
Could a new pump be defective?
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      11-22-2015, 09:04 AM   #8
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Sure does sound like a water pump issue.

BTW, coolant will almost always bubble out of the overflow tank if you open it up when it's still hot. Boiling temp of coolant is around 260 F at 15 psi, but 212 F at atmospheric.

That's why you should let it cool down before opening it up.

Neil
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      11-22-2015, 09:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN
Sure does sound like a water pump issue.

BTW, coolant will almost always bubble out of the overflow tank if you open it up when it's still hot. Boiling temp of coolant is around 260 F at 15 psi, but 212 F at atmospheric.

That's why you should let it cool down before opening it up.

Neil
Well yeah that it obvious! It was always overflow when the pressure appears .
I think that might be a sensor which no ever talks about ! There are two main sensors for intake and exhaust port ! They also control the engine heating and that causes to turn on the pump ! One of the PROBABLY don't work ...
Well that's just my estimate
It is not the issue with a pump!
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      11-22-2015, 09:13 AM   #10
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Did you prime the pump?
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      11-22-2015, 09:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Did you prime the pump?
What do you mean by that ?
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      11-22-2015, 09:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimka
Quote:
Originally Posted by CptJoe732
Did you prime the pump?
What do you mean by that ?
You don't turn the car on, you do a special procedure to get out all the air from your system so your pump works correctly.
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      11-22-2015, 09:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CptJoe732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimka
Quote:
Originally Posted by CptJoe732
Did you prime the pump?
What do you mean by that ?
You don't turn the car on, you do a special procedure to get out all the air from your system so your pump works correctly.
Yup! I have tried that but SOMETHING causes the water pump NOT to turn on .... It's a bleeding procedure . After I replaced pump and put new half/half coolant I tried to do procedure and it didn't work :
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      11-22-2015, 09:22 AM   #14
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Procedure is similar to this. You'll need a battery charger hooked up:

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      11-22-2015, 09:24 AM   #15
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Forgive me for asking the obvious questions, but are you sure you used the proper bleeding procedure?

IIRC, the ignition needs to be on, the heat set to max and the fan set to low.

Only then do you hold the accelerator pedal down for 10 seconds.

Neil
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      11-22-2015, 09:24 AM   #16
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Got to admit ! BMW ARE SUCK ONCE THEY STARTING TO BREAK !
I have two BMWs 328i & 335i
328i doesn't give me problems KNOCK ON WOOD LOL
335i is peace of *equipment* that breaks all the time !
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      11-22-2015, 09:24 AM   #17
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Check your fluid level! Then Follow the priming procedure again! Then, check underneath for any leaks! If no leaks, then check your electrical connections to the wp - they have been knows to sever here and there! Also, you mixed coolant and distilled water, right??!
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      11-22-2015, 09:25 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN
Forgive me for asking the obvious questions, but are you sure you used the proper bleeding procedure?

IIRC, the ignition needs to be on, the heat set to max and the fan set to low.

Only then do you hold the accelerator pedal down for 10 seconds.

Neil
Yes sir! I did it correctly . I've done it on couple of cars already . Not the first car im working on . FIRST problem I ever had though
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      11-22-2015, 09:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad
Check your fluid level! Then Follow the priming procedure again! Then, check underneath for any leaks! If no leaks, then check your electrical connections to the wp - they have been knows to sever here and there! Also, you mixed coolant and distilled water, right??!
Yea check those wires, mine were nipped but still worked.
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      11-22-2015, 09:27 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad
Check your fluid level! Then Follow the priming procedure again! Then, check underneath for any leaks! If no leaks, then check your electrical connections to the wp - they have been knows to sever here and there! Also, you mixed coolant and distilled water, right??!
Yes filtered water ! And blue original BMW Coolant
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      11-22-2015, 09:29 AM   #21
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In addition to the above video bleed procedure, Bentley manual says you're supposed to rotate the impeller by hand one rev before installing. I'm not sure why that is necessary but maybe it needs to be freed up slightly before use. And if you don't have a good charger hooked up it is possible battery is not supplying enough voltage to run for 12 minutes.
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      11-22-2015, 09:30 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CptJoe732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad
Check your fluid level! Then Follow the priming procedure again! Then, check underneath for any leaks! If no leaks, then check your electrical connections to the wp - they have been knows to sever here and there! Also, you mixed coolant and distilled water, right??!
Yea check those wires, mine were nipped but still worked.
They have electricity I check .
I'll do that again . Want to make sure . Thanks
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