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      12-02-2015, 10:14 PM   #1
NeT335
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Replacing coil packs

Just got my new coil packs today.

Anyone want to help install them for me?
Would do it myself but last time I changed my spark plugs in my 540 I ended up needing to replace all 4 coils on bank 2 lol

Will pay for your time aswell

Thanks
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      12-02-2015, 10:29 PM   #2
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Nah bruh coils is the easiest shit ever, about 6.8 times easier than sparks. Takes 30 secs after cowl is off.
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      12-02-2015, 10:36 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ80.
Nah bruh coils is the easiest shit ever, about 6.8 times easier than sparks. Takes 30 secs after cowl is off.
Lol I know it's easy I'm just scared I might either break a clip or connector.

Also is it just push push all the way down when you install new one? Or should there be like a 'click' sound?
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      12-02-2015, 10:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeTiNQ View Post
Lol I know it's easy I'm just scared I might either break a clip or connector.

Also is it just push push all the way down when you install new one? Or should there be like a 'click' sound?
They don't always give you a click sound, just push it in until the lip of the coil is flush, its easy mate.

The coils are made out of rubber and seal pretty well, so you need to overcome the vacuum when you pull it out. I use a socket extension and put it through the hole of the locking tab and yank upwards to get them out

Just make sure the electrical connectors are FULLY in, you can easily get the tab to lock even if the connector isn't fully in the socket. When I did it the first time the car ran on 5 cylinders cos I didn't push one connectors all the way in.
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      12-02-2015, 10:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeTiNQ View Post
Lol I know it's easy I'm just scared I might either break a clip or connector.

Also is it just push push all the way down when you install new one? Or should there be like a 'click' sound?
They don't always give you a click sound, just push it in until the lip of the coil is flush, its easy mate.

Just make sure the electrical connectors are FULLY in, you can easily get the tab to lock even if the connector isn't fully in the socket. When I did it the first time the car ran on 5 cylinders cos I didn't push one connectors all the way in.
Thanks vtl I'm going to try it now

Will yous know if the car won't start after this lol
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      12-02-2015, 10:55 PM   #6
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Discount on tail lights? I'll do it.
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      12-02-2015, 10:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iliketurtl3s
Discount on tail lights? I'll do it.
Tail light usually 620 you can have a set for 590

Already getting a problem aswell one of the connectors won't go all the way in so I can't close the cap or whatever it is over it
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      12-02-2015, 11:06 PM   #8
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Push down and in at the same time. Make sure it alins on the side.
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      12-02-2015, 11:09 PM   #9
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Yeah don't rely on the cap to push the plug in. You need to push the connector in and just keep the cap around 45degrees and leave it slack. Once the connector is pushed in you can click the cap to finish the job.
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      12-02-2015, 11:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
Yeah don't rely on the cap to push the plug in. You need to push the connector in and just keep the cap around 45degrees and leave it slack. Once the connector is pushed in you can click the cap to finish the job.
I don't know if it's because they new or I'm just weak but I'm having a hard time getting connector to go all the way in

These are the ones I got
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      12-02-2015, 11:24 PM   #11
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Theyre the correct ones, you need a moderate amount of force to get them in cos of the rubber seal.

Can you show a pic of the connector that youre fighting with? Do any of them go in?
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      12-02-2015, 11:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
Theyre the correct ones, you need a moderate amount of force to get them in cos of the rubber seal.

Can you show a pic of the connector that youre fighting with? Do any of them go in?
So far it's the 1st one and the 3rd one. 2nd one just barely went in. Still haven't tried the last 3 towards the back
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      12-02-2015, 11:44 PM   #13
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All I can think of is remove the connector and reattempt, maybe with a different new coil. Should go in, try pushing in the cap gently down while applying moderate force on the connector.
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      12-02-2015, 11:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
All I can think of is remove the connector and reattempt, maybe with a different new coil. Should go in, try pushing in the cap gently down while applying moderate force on the connector.
It worked I changed the coil to another new one and it connected up

Finally finished the rest of them.
If I did anything wrong would it be noticeable as I have the car on now idling, so if it was on 5 cylinders would you be able to tell as right now it sounds fine to me.

Or should I take it for a drive to see if a misfire comes up?
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      12-02-2015, 11:56 PM   #15
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Good work! Misfire you would notice it straight away engine sounds extremely rough. Take it for a drive anyway, worth resetting the dme adaptations as well.
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      12-02-2015, 11:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
Good work! Misfire you would notice it straight away engine sounds extremely rough. Take it for a drive anyway, worth resetting the dme adaptations as well.
Feel like a baller now

Thanks vtl hopefully nothing happens when I drive it
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      12-03-2015, 12:15 AM   #17
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All good no engine lights

You might be right about resetting adaptations as I felt a hiccup at one stage but it didn't come back even after a few wot runs
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      12-03-2015, 03:38 AM   #18
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Did you notice the difference? I had a massive improvement in power after some fresh coils (mine were 6 years old and had 70k kays use)
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      12-03-2015, 04:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL
Did you notice the difference? I had a massive improvement in power after some fresh coils (mine were 6 years old and had 70k kays use)
I think most of mine had 167xxx kms on them

I did feel a difference but don't want to say it was a big one I did notice abit more response and losing traction more easier now
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