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Wastegate rattle fix
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12-14-2015, 02:39 PM | #1 |
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Wastegate rattle fix
Hey guys my WGs are rattling pretty bad sounds like im dragging tin cans underneath my car.
Wondering if anyone has been able to adjust the actuators without removing the downpipes. With the steering column in the way I cant see anything from the engine bay. |
12-14-2015, 02:54 PM | #2 |
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FWIW I was told to replace all the vac hoses and boost solenoids and I must admit that helped a lot with WG rattle
Another member who's username is timot done a mod to adjust his, try PM'ing him |
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12-14-2015, 03:36 PM | #3 |
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I would replace all the vac hoses and boost solenoids first, otherwise if you had a vacuum leak you would have adjusted the wastegate rods for nothing.
If you are confident you have no vac leaks then you should see if its one or both of the turbos rattling. You can unplug one of the boost solenoids which will open up the wastegate fully (hence no rattles). This will isolate the other turbo and if it rattles then you can adjust that one. Sometimes people only have one turbo that rattles. When replacing the vacuum line for the rear turbo I noticed that access to the wastegate is possible from underneath the car. Not sure about the front turbo, maybe you can get at it from the wheel well and removing some of the heatshields.
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12-14-2015, 03:43 PM | #4 |
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Thanks ill get underneath and see if I can access the rear. I replaced all my vac lines except the one to the rear wastegate as you cant reach from the engine bay.
I have a tune which showed a leak which I traced to the diverter valves. Pretty sure there are no other leaks. |
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12-14-2015, 05:11 PM | #6 |
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Did you have the rattle before you tuned?
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12-14-2015, 06:44 PM | #7 |
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How I solved my Rattle.
Before you torture yourself under your car trying to adjust the actuators try a flash. JB4 MHD flash has rattle fixes built into it, especially in its newer update. Play around with menu 10(default wastegate position) it will reduce rattle greatly. Before this I tried adjusting it manually and took it to my local bmw mech with no improvement. |
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12-14-2015, 07:19 PM | #8 |
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I have used the MHD rattle fix it didnt do anything. I also just vacuum tested the actuator lines and boost solenoids and they are fine.
So now im under the car and the rod is definately loose but I cant get the f**ing locking nut off. Soaking it in some CRC hopefully that will loosen it a bit. But damn its a tight spot and hardly room to move a wrench in there. Hey KiwiRD nope the rattle showed up after the tune but I have been pushing the car a bit as well lots of WOTs etc. So no surprise that has put some stress on the turbos. |
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12-14-2015, 07:47 PM | #9 |
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Just something off topic here, My car doesn't have wastegate rattle, but when it accelerates, I can hear some sound like gas releasing pressure.
Does anyone know what's that? Normal? Or probably boost leak? I checked with bmwhat app but no codes. |
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12-14-2015, 07:58 PM | #10 | |
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I am honoured to have been summoned. So this is what it feels like to be Socket lol
But seriously, here's my little DIY for the wastegate rattle fix: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=80 Please note, this is only applicable to cars WITH STOCK DOWNPIPES. Once you've got catless DPs on, you will not have any more room to get your arm close enough to adjust the WG actuator. I also cannot confirm if this can be done with an automatic and I'm sure the transmission housing is a lot fatter than the 6MT and thus will have less room for your arm! Also, some more info I saved that Sockie aggregated a while ago regarding the JB4 settings that can be adjusted for masking WG rattle: Quote:
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12-14-2015, 08:07 PM | #11 |
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Did you replace you vacuum lines and boost solenoids before your manual fix timot ?
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12-14-2015, 08:14 PM | #12 |
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Yep replaced both solenoids and all vac lines except for the one that goes to the rear turbo - was unable to do it.
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12-14-2015, 08:18 PM | #13 |
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Really? I thought the rear turbo was pretty easy compared to the front turbo. Was a royal pain in the ass getting enough leverage to push the braided hose on the front turbo. Also my hands aren't big and even I had issues putting the vac line on the front turbo due to space. Took a good 20-30 minutes to get it seated lol. Had to use a endoscope camera to check that the hose was on fully
Rear turbo I had pretty good access at the rear of the car (6sp manual with downpipes), only pain was that you need to jack the car up and remove the undertray.
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12-14-2015, 08:24 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
HAhahahahahhhahahahaha |
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12-14-2015, 08:43 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
I asked just because I couldn't hear that previously. Maybe it's just getting louder recently even I drive the car the same way like I did in the past. I am also thinking if the increase in sound implies the wastegate rattle is coming soon. My understanding to wastegate rattle = turbo is not working properly and is faulty, am I correct? Last edited by CYL; 12-14-2015 at 09:06 PM.. |
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12-14-2015, 10:16 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
I'd immediately buy sockets turbos and have them installed. No more WG rattle |
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12-14-2015, 10:17 PM | #17 |
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Blow Off valve maybe??? lol
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12-15-2015, 03:44 AM | #18 |
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12-15-2015, 04:53 AM | #19 | ||
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Quote:
Your wastegate will still open and close. Just not in the most pleasant way haha.
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12-15-2015, 09:02 PM | #21 |
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Hey guys little update. I fixed the WG rattle
I went to supercheatauto to buy a stubby wrench to crack the locking nut off and spotted some tiny little spanners which are perfect for adjusting the actuator rod. Cost $35 (for set of stubbies and micro spanners) and took about 1 hour in total including jacking up, removing wheel etc. You definately need a stubby 10mm to get the locking nut off. The small 4mm spanner was a godsend too. Having the right tools makes this job a breeze. When doing this job its best to close the WG by applying vacuum so you dont overtighten the actuator rod. Mine was hand tight after 1.5 turns. Heres some pics below. On the downside though it looks like my waterpump/thermostat has shat itself It has had a slow leak for sometime now I have been ignoring but today after topping up the coolant and going for a test ride as soon as I stopped the coolant emptied out of the coolant reservoir. It was literally boiling out the side of the tank so im thinking the thermostat as well I caught some of it on film will try to upload later. This car is really starting to piss me off. Fix one thing then its on to something else. Last edited by jin; 12-15-2015 at 09:19 PM.. |
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12-15-2015, 09:17 PM | #22 |
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Well done mate!! I have the same set of 'micro' spanners to.
You're frustration reminds me of this which I stole from another forum. |
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