[BentZero]

I'm picking up my car soon and I'm taking the day off after work to clay, wax and seal it. I have synthetic wax as well as a separate synthetic spray sealer/quick detailer. Should I polish after I clay the car? I don't have any polish nor a polisher.

[overcoil]

I wouldn't clay a new car.
Yes you should polish after clay - but it gets tricky - some clays are more aggressive ( some advertised as non-abrasive) - and if just hitting a few spots with good clay&lube you could probably get away with just waxing.

If claying a complete car you'd polish.

But I personally wouldn't clay a new car. If you had a domestic built car transported by rail, things might be different, but I wouldn't even clay in that case before a good wash and wax, and if that didn't deliver a good enough feel then I'd; wash, polish and wax.

Almost forgot, if you do clay, wash after you clay

Finally if picking up a new car would definately do a quality wash and wax ( and the quality of your washing drying waxing and buffing towels applicators is most important) but before putting the time into claying and understand you want to use a sealant - I would do each wheel, off the car with a wash, drying and waxing.

[BentZero]

Ah, okay. Well, I just assumed that I might need to. I was going to do a bag test to verify that I actually needed to do it though. Regardless, it sounds like I need to think about finding a good polishing machine.

[overcoil]

I'd wait for other opinions.
But I think very light pressure hand polish & hand wax is the best for new paint. I'd use linear motion not circular.

If you get insect or tar specs that won't come of with gentle hose action or with car wash or polish and wax with no downward pressure never scrub, then use a purpose automotive citrus or insect or tar remover - applied and let to sit then wiped with no pressure.

The 2-series side body contour that runs the length of the car, I wouldn't use a motorized polisher on the crease. It's a small car that takes well to hand polishing.

It's important to go at paint in a manner that you don't need correction and wax to get a great glow. You want a good quality quick wash to get the most out of the paint.
The best thing you can do is be there when the car comes off the truck and make sure the dealership doesn't use a brush to prep your car.

[BentZero]

It'll be a PCD vehicle. I won't be there when it gets there.

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by BentZero

It'll be a PCD vehicle. I won't be there when it gets there.

I would think they do a good detail.

[BentZero]

I would hope so.

For soap I'm using some McGuire's gold class until that runs out and then switching to chemical guys V7....I think. Whichever one is their ph balanced soap. Thinking about using their citrus soap as well, but we'll see. I've dried up my fun car stuff fund with all of the stuff that I've bought so far, so I have a bit of time to decide what to get. It's amazing how quickly this stuff can add up. :/

[SteveInfante]

I'm trying to figure out why anyone would NOT clay a new car. Just because it's new doesn't mean that contaminants didn't adhere themselves to the surface of the car in transit.

Hand wash (2 bucket method)<-----super important when hand washing
Clay while still wet
rinse
Blow dry (I use an electric leaf blower I only use it for this purpose)

If it doesn't need any correction from micro abrasions caused by being "detailed" by your dealership then I would do a synthetic sealant, let it harden overnight and then apply either another coat of the same or a couple coats of a good carnauba. Some wheel wax would be a good idea too.

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

I'm trying to figure out why anyone would NOT clay a new car. Just because it's new doesn't mean that contaminants didn't adhere themselves to the surface of the car in transit.

Hand wash (2 bucket method)<-----super important when hand washing
Clay while still wet
rinse
Blow dry (I use an electric leaf blower I only use it for this purpose)

If it doesn't need any correction from micro abrasions caused by being "detailed" by your dealership then I would do a synthetic sealant, let it harden overnight and then apply either another coat of the same or a couple coats of a good carnauba. Some wheel wax would be a good idea too.

Yes, I would say definitely clay a new car.... specially if it's been sitting on a boat for 3 weeks... to remove all the crap and adhesive from the protecting wrap

[Tpeterson]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

I'm trying to figure out why anyone would NOT clay a new car. Just because it's new doesn't mean that contaminants didn't adhere themselves to the surface of the car in transit.

.

I agree. Any time wax or sealant is used the paint should be clayed. It removes the microscopic contaminants on the surface before you wax over them and seal them in. You should only need to polish to remove light scratches and swirl marks and there shouldn't be many, if any, on a new car. BTW,polish should only be used when necessary because it does remove a small amount of paint every time it is used.

[BentZero]

Ah, okay. Thanks guys. I'm a bit iffy about my sealant....or lack thereof. Here's my plan now based on what I have. Wash with gold class. Two buckets of course. Clay using clay towel. Wax with Meguiar's ultimate synth wax. Top off with chemical guys hybrid V7. I feel like I need a step in between the claying and wax. I'm thinking a truer sealant than the V7, but idk which one.

I kind of have a hodgepodge of items now. I ultimately want to go with the stuff at Ammonyc.com, but in the meantime I guess what I have will have to work. :/

[overcoil]

This is a good clay thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...s-new-car.html

My experience is that most people tend to put some level of scratching into their finish the more extensive and the more products they use - particularly on new car and applying greater # of products.

[SteveInfante]

Remember you don't have to push into the paint for the clay device to work properly. This is how micro marring ends up on your paint. Very light pressure and lots of lube.

I would stick with what you are planning. That should provide up to a year or so of protection, especially if your car is garaged most of the time.

[Legal Bill]

My car arrives in two or three weeks. I will take delivery with the white plastic still on the panels and drive it home that way. When I get home I will peel off the plastic, wash the car with Chemical Guys car wash, clay bar the car using Poor-Boys quick detailing spray and a clay bar from Maguires, and then use Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant as the final finish:

http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-we...d-sealant.html


IF, I am not happy with the appearance, I will apply a coat of carnuba wax over the sealant. But only if I am not happy.

There are other sealants that work well. I'm trying the Blackfire on the recommendation of a professional detailer.

[SteveInfante]

I can attest for Blackfire products as well. Their waterless wash is awesome too.