[nukezero]

I'm getting constant long cranks now. Whether the car is cold start or the car is hot after a drive. It takes 4-5 seconds and it stumbles. Other than that, it idles perfectly fine at 650rpm when everything fires up and drives fine other than a low boost code.

I have the following codes:

2AAF - fuel pump plausibility
30FF - low boost pressure


anyone know if bad leaky injectors cause long crank? Or is this really the HPFP going out? original oem injectors from 2009. new plugs and coils like 1 year ago. the low boost pressure is intermittent and I've traced it to a broken vacuum hose. But could a bad vacuum hose cause long crank?

[Antetokounmpo]

Definitely

[nukezero]

What about leaking vacuum? I found two vacuum hoses cracked and broken near the oil filter housing that go to the vacuum resevoir tanks that go to the turbo solenoids. The hoses lead to the vacuum pump attached to the hpfp on the other side.

The car requires vacuum in order to crank up the engine or the hpfp requires some starting vacuum?

[Milan]

IMO you have two (very common) problems

30FF is the vacuum leak and the long cranking is leaking injectors, pull your plugs and you will most likely find the culprits

[adidoman]

It could also be bad injectors, mine weren't leaking but they were going and had to get replaced

[SM335i]

could also be a bad coil, happened to me.

[BQTuning]

what fuel are you running ?

[nukezero]

Running Chevron CA 91 octane. Plugs were replaced 30k miles ago. Coils all replaced 25k miles ago. All last year. Stock tune. Just ER charge pipe w/ stock diveter is the only engine mod.

I replaced all the vacuum hoses from vacuum pump all the way to turbos after finding two that were broken near the oil filter housing. Now, I'm having another issue immediately after fixing the broken vacuum. The starting is a bit better now, takes 2-3 seconds instead of 5-6 seconds and failing.
But starting the engine is still struggling still. Perhaps leaky fuel injectors still.

Secondly, I get this MAD rattling upon decelleration from high rpm to low rpm of the wastegates. It is SO bad. Are my turbos shot now? Original turbos, 124k miles. It's there everytime when I decelerate. The dealer upgraded the wastegate rod/actuator back in 2010.

Boost is okay, but I suspect there is still boost leak now and not vacuum leak because when I accelerate, I can hear this super high pitched "weeeen" (whine). 30FF still coming back.

[89mustaine]

Originally Posted by adidoman

It could also be bad injectors, mine weren't leaking but they were going and had to get replaced

Originally Posted by Milan

IMO you have two (very common) problems

30FF is the vacuum leak and the long cranking is leaking injectors, pull your plugs and you will most likely find the culprits

I have similar issues as the OP, Just had the HPFP replaced with minimal improvement. How can I go about checking injectors. The only codes I get are 30ff after limp mode and once in a while a miss fire code if I let it idle from cold start for too long.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

If you want to check your injectors, one way is just to pull the plugs.

If they are fouled with fuel it would indicate a leaky injector.

However, not all failed injectors leak. Other times they are just louder then the other.

If you have INPA, you can view the injectors in the rough running section which will show which injectors are out of spec.

Another way to look into long cranks is to datalog HPFP and LPFP pressures as well as rail pressure.

If you have injectors older then index 11, it may just be time to replace all 6 and be done. Same goes for old coils and plugs. It's worth the investment to get all of them fresh and up to date, especially for vehicles with originals in excess of 50K miles.

I'd start with checking the plugs and see how they look, they can tell a lot of the story.

30FF are still boost leaks so that's a 2nd problem on top of the long cranks.

[89mustaine]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

If you want to check your injectors, one way is just to pull the plugs.

If they are fouled with fuel it would indicate a leaky injector.

However, not all failed injectors leak. Other times they are just louder then the other.

If you have INPA, you can view the injectors in the rough running section which will show which injectors are out of spec.

Another way to look into long cranks is to datalog HPFP and LPFP pressures as well as rail pressure.

If you have injectors older then index 11, it may just be time to replace all 6 and be done. Same goes for old coils and plugs. It's worth the investment to get all of them fresh and up to date, especially for vehicles with originals in excess of 50K miles.

I'd start with checking the plugs and see how they look, they can tell a lot of the story.

30FF are still boost leaks so that's a 2nd problem on top of the long cranks.

Thank you for that! I'll go through the steps. I have an appointment with my indy to do a smoke test and by then I should be able to replace the vacuum lines. The injectors are what worry me the most. I'm almost positive they are originals so they should be replaced regardless, but I would like my 3rd party warranty to cover them if possible.