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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Another e90?
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03-09-2017, 02:28 AM | #1 |
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Another e90?
My first car 3 years ago was a 328i sedan 07' (auto) which I completely destroyed various times but i loved it very much. After that i got myself a FRS (Manual) which was fun. I did a few things which was bolt ons, Tune w/ pure e85, coilovers, & wheels. Recently my FRS was totaled. I ended up with nothing but considering how much i loved my 328i although it was automatic. I really want another bmw which i can build to at least 500hp i want a 335i(manual) with under 100k for under $10,000 which im still currently saving but i see many online when ever i do check. I want some opinions wether or not it's something i should buy and whether i should put any effort into building one. I hear the 335i n54 motors are very reliable except for the components around the motor. All opinions welcome. I was thinking about an evo X but i dont want to finance its just not worth it plus college and work + rent and insurance.. I couldnt handle a car payment on top of everything im 21 but i literally only have myself. Any advice helps!
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03-09-2017, 03:14 AM | #2 |
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Inb4 save your money you're too young.
Anyway, if you want a 3er that isn't a V8, look into a 335is. It an upgraded N54 from the factory.
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03-09-2017, 06:01 AM | #3 |
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"My first car 3 years ago was a 328i sedan 07' (auto) which I completely destroyed various times"
"After that i got myself a FRS (Manual) which was fun"... "Recently my FRS was totaled." I'd wait a bit until your driving matures...
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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03-09-2017, 09:33 AM | #4 | |
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03-09-2017, 09:50 AM | #5 |
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Kudos for saving up and buying the car in cash. That said, routine maintenance and repairs on a 100k N54 can easily add up to a car payment (or more) if you are not performing the work yourself, may also want to check out insurance rates if you have a recent total claim.
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03-09-2017, 09:52 AM | #6 | |
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03-09-2017, 10:06 AM | #7 | |
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Turbos are $2,000+ aftermarket, water pumps are expensive, etc. Also, many gaskets fail such as oil filter housing, valve cover, and oil pan. On a 100k mile car these will likely need to be done, and aren't expensive part-wise, but labor intensive. The sub frame needs to be dropped for the oil pan. If you are looking at 100k mile cars it is worth waiting to find one with a maintenance history.
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03-09-2017, 10:20 AM | #8 |
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buy a honda civic so when you wreck again you won't die and it will be cheap.
It sounds like you do not need to be driving anything with any excessive power at all Like others said, you need to figure out how to drive before you choose a car. Have you even driven something with 500whp? You need to be nowhere near that. Last edited by anjuna; 03-09-2017 at 10:36 AM.. |
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03-09-2017, 10:33 AM | #9 |
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You're 21, totaled two cars and you want to buy a 335? I cannot imagine what your insurance premiums would be. There are plenty of inexpensive stylish cars out there. I'd suggest a defense driving course.
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03-09-2017, 12:54 PM | #10 |
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As others have mentioned, if you already got in to enough trouble with an FRS, and a 328, maybe stepping up to a 335i isnt the best choice for your well being right now (especially one with 500WHP), im sure most people on here just dont want to see you get into trouble or or injure yourself, (or others for that matter) but if your set on it for sure, then just make sure you do your research.
Also be prepared to pay to play, the 335i is NOT a cheap car to own. Maintenance is expensive, repairs are expensive, insurance will be expensive, and mods will only make all of those things... more expensive... You already mentioned you would struggle with an EVO payment, sure the 335i will be paid off, and you wont have a payment, but it all adds up. Maybe consider a MX5? Civic SI? as both of these are safe, and great fun cars, and RELIABLE/Leaseable while your in college. If you want something used, maybe look for something not german, like an is300, or an older WRX. just my .02 |
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03-09-2017, 01:01 PM | #11 |
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E90Post provides yet again.
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03-09-2017, 01:59 PM | #12 |
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Well I've had my fair share of trouble as well, even more than you've had and I've got quite a few years on you. I'm also, sure everyone else is a perfect, no infractions driver so you and I are a rare breed of getting in trouble with cars.
I would seriously reconsider a 500whp car as what sounds to be your daily when you have a fixed/limited budget of time and money. I drove a higher hp car daily for a several years and it got old. Whether it be stiff suspension, tough clutch, no ac/heat, missing bumpers, loudness, exhaust fumes, cold starts in the winter, whatever. It will get old and something will break or have to be fixed. My experience is the more HP is the more maintenance ($$$) it requires. I did it backwards and eventually got a daily, 98 Buick Lesabre with 35K miles from CL for $2700 and had my "toy". Hindsight that's what I should have done but I was always too impatient and wanted my toy when I wanted it. Being a car guy I always wanted to modify whatever it was I was driving so the "blue hair" was perfect as a daily. My suggestion would be to find a cheap daily that you don't want to modify and then buy the 335 or whatever else so you can work on it when you have time/money but still have a daily when something happens and you don't have transpo. Good luck with whatever route you choose; look forward to whatever purchase(s) you decide! |
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03-09-2017, 02:15 PM | #13 |
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I'm thinking a 328i or 330i with manual trans would still be pretty fun without the maintenance costs or higher insurance of the 335i.
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03-09-2017, 02:55 PM | #14 |
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^^^ This is good advice. I had a hot rod in HS and it was a nightmare at college. I got a used cheap DD and then a brand new car in my senior year. You don't need the distraction of a 100K mile car having trouble while you go to college. Get a used GTI or a BMW 328 and enjoy your college studies without worrying much about the car.
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03-09-2017, 03:00 PM | #15 | |
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Cheap fun can be had from Ford Focus ST or Fiesta ST.......but not very luxurious. |
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03-09-2017, 03:11 PM | #16 | ||
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03-10-2017, 05:30 AM | #17 | |
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03-10-2017, 07:38 AM | #18 |
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I agree.
I'd rather help him find something that will work than tell him to get driving lessons since I'm fairly certain he's gonna do what he's gonna do. I had plenty of guys give me their advice from years of experience when I was younger, as I'm sure you did too, and it went in one ear and out the other. Some of it I just had to learn the hard way. |
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03-10-2017, 08:45 AM | #19 | |
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"Enough trouble with an FRS"
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03-10-2017, 09:32 AM | #20 |
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If you're looking for a 335, you would have to be prepared for some maintenance $$. I would chose one 2009 or newer that has the updated front subframe design (power steering pulley touching) - that would be one (possible major) thing out of the way. Then, I would look for a car that has a factory oil cooler and maybe added cooling rad (the is was mentioned - but these are more expensive). Also, the 2009 and younger cars have the updated camshaft bearing ledge (actually teflon rings instead of steel I believe), so that would be another major hassle out of the way. Yes, the more maintenance records, the better.
Then, I would stop right here and assess the car, probably start to bring it back to spec - now you need $$ just for that. Once you have a reliable DD, keep it stock for a while - it has enough power and the stocker won't break down easy. I forgot to mention that after 2011 it seems the N54 came also with the OEM "updated" turbo (so this is again probably "is" territory). Basically at this stage you could start saving some $$ for the future mods. The car will be reliable and fun to drive. Change the OEM PCV valve in the valve cover with Rob's PCV valve and you're set. Take your time and weigh all your options during this time what "upgrades" you need/want. The more conservative numbers, the more reliable the car will be. There are many with JB4, Cobb, etc, but in the real world, on the streets I wonder if you need that much power in exchange for reliability. If you track the car, it's a different matter. If you want reliable HP increase, I would advise a Dinan tune, which seems expensive, but at least it's reliable, gives the car a very smooth handling and has the WP remapped at ECU level to increase flow/cooling when needed (not sure about the other tunes if they have the same feature). I know many would not agree with me, but this is just a point of view if you don't have lots of $$ to sink in a car, yet you want to have a reliable and fun to drive machine 0.02
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03-10-2017, 09:35 AM | #21 | |
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03-10-2017, 04:01 PM | #22 | |
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SuaveSpoolin We can only respond to what YOU initially wrote:
We ALL got awesome advice from doru! doru, I agree with you. Quote:
SuaveSpoolin IMHO: Stay stock until you are free of other bills. Set aside money, Don't bury yourself in 500 BHP e90. Hey, half way thru college, new job perhaps, U may be looking at M2, M3, M4, or something better. Now that's a post from you that I want to read. . . and be sure to include pictures. . . |
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