[MrSweet1991]

Hi All,

This week my 330D seems to be having some fuel economy issues so to speak, typically I'd get 24ish MPG town driving (start/stop) which returned 90 miles for every £20 of fuel but now I'm hovering on 18-19MPG. A few days ago the exhaust come away from the bracket (from down pipe to front muffler?)

So I took it to quick fit and they said by the looks of the bracket and exhaust it must have hit something (the exhaust must have already been in that state before I purchased the car, and from flooring the car the pressure pushed the pipe away).. but exhaust is clamped on again and sounds fine.. but ironically from then I seem to have lost a few miles per gallon.. could be coincidence I'm not sure?

So, I was thinking of trying a few things such as MAP and MAF clean with some of Halfords electrical cleaner.. and failling that maybe an air filter and I'll also by a crankcase breather (vortex type) as I'm not sure when/if it had been changed.

But I'm not that experienced when it comes to engines so I'm just trying anything that comes to mind.. does anyone have a more.. I don't know structured approach? I have ISTA D and a diagnostic cable so I can provide details from that if there's any data that may be of use.

Thanks

This is a video is where the exhaust come away, as I say it's back on now.

https://youtu.be/FSYcRsa1mXc

[davealfa11]

you can damage a maf cleaning it so be warned
I definitely clean your map sensor with plus gas (should be part of service)
replace filter as a matter of course
have you lost power at all?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by davealfa11

you can damage a maf cleaning it so be warned
I definitely clean your map sensor with plus gas (should be part of service)
replace filter as a matter of course
have you lost power at all?

Thank you for the reply, right I will bare that in mind. I have heard the MAF causes the engine to run lean? would it be better to just buy a MAF if all else fails?

And the power is great mate definitely no loss in that.. I do think I have a vacuum leak somewhere as well. Originally I did think it was the turbo spool noise but in my opinion the sounds starts way to early in the RPM to be the turbo spooling (hopefully I'm using the right terminology)

So MAP and Air filter at the moment seem like a good idea?

In respects to the plus gas, it says it lubricates? isn't the MAP supposed to be bone dry or was that the MAF?

[Andy198712]

See on YouTube how to check the hidden menu and see what your coolant temps are doing.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by Andy198712

See on YouTube how to check the hidden menu and see what your coolant temps are doing.

Its a tricky one mate, I do that a heck of a lot and it takes a little while to heat up but has no problem hitting 92 sometimes 97 but I say it's tricky because it's not necessarily consistent, there are times when I'll average mid 80's and motorway driving is impossible to hit anywhere near 80 but on the motorway run I did I was getting 52MPG

[davealfa11]

thermostat issues rear their ugly head if your cruising on motorway and you don't hit 88c minimum ..the thermostat regulates water to the radiator ,if it doesn't do its job engine overcools
regards MAP manifold absolute pressure sensor this is the one you use with plus gas this is mounted on inlet manifold of most turbo diesels
MAF is right by airfilter
another issue can be a cruded up egr valve ,this not working efficiently can cause overfueling issues as when engine starts boosting its not closed and boost pressure slip down exhaust pipe(no it wont blow your exhaust off lol) and maf sensor notices extra air consume so ecu increases fuel

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by davealfa11

thermostat issues rear their ugly head if your cruising on motorway and you don't hit 88c minimum ..the thermostat regulates water to the radiator ,if it doesn't do its job engine overcools
regards MAP manifold absolute pressure sensor this is the one you use with plus gas this is mounted on inlet manifold of most turbo diesels
MAF is right by airfilter
another issue can be a cruded up egr valve ,this not working efficiently can cause overfueling issues as when engine starts boosting its not closed and boost pressure slip down exhaust pipe(no it wont blow your exhaust off lol) and maf sensor notices extra air consume so ecu increases fuel

Thank you for the information, I like how you also explained what the parts where and what they do (I'm a bit simple when ti comes to engines haha)

Well I'm receiving replies to another post and again my thermostat was brought up, I was told by my dealer that the car will never reach 90ish degrees because of the amount of air hitting the radiator while on the motorway but I'm now to believe it should hit 90ish and be solid.. my car in respects to the temperature is not solid, sometimes it drives mid 80's around town.. sometimes it sits in the 90's but it's definitely not consistent.

As for the EGR, I'll pop that off and have a look inside and take some pictures

Thanks for all the information again.. hopefully I can get some better economy soon

[davealfa11]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Thank you for the information, I like how you also explained what the parts where and what they do (I'm a bit simple when ti comes to engines haha)

Well I'm receiving replies to another post and again my thermostat was brought up, I was told by my dealer that the car will never reach 90ish degrees because of the amount of air hitting the radiator while on the motorway but I'm now to believe it should hit 90ish and be solid.. my car in respects to the temperature is not solid, sometimes it drives mid 80's around town.. sometimes it sits in the 90's but it's definitely not consistent.

As for the EGR, I'll pop that off and have a look inside and take some pictures

Thanks for all the information again.. hopefully I can get some better economy soon

your dealer doesn't know the purpose of a thermostat ..it is there to regulate the water through radiator ,its not and off/on switch .its opening temp is usually around 88c ..this is 1st year apprenticeship mechanics stuff and they seem to have forgotton basics of engines ...too busy plugging in diagnosis machines and reading software issues rather than a hardware issue

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by davealfa11

your dealer doesn't know the purpose of a thermostat ..it is there to regulate the water through radiator ,its not and off/on switch .its opening temp is usually around 88c ..this is 1st year apprenticeship mechanics stuff and they seem to have forgotton basics of engines ...too busy plugging in diagnosis machines and reading software issues rather than a hardware issue

Just popped to Mcdonalds and monitored the temperature from start to finish. The temperature started at 36 Degrees Celsius, by the time I reached McDonalds the temperature was around 79 I also noticed that the car seems to heat up much better idling, but while in the Mcdonalds cue I noticed the temperature went up and down 79 - 77 and so forth.. On my way back I reached into the 80's but again the temperature was going up and down a few degrees.. I can only assume the car reaches 90's when it's been driven hard and I've had lots of stops with town driving, if I'm driving and air hits the radiator it struggles to maintain temp. Although I suspect it's the main thermostat that needs changing as it kicks in around 80 I'll just change the EGR as well.. at least I'll have two new thermostats. Hopefully getting up to temperature will kick me right out the low 20's with town driving.. there's a few people with 330D's claiming 30-35 around town and I'm far from.

[Len_Beach]

Is it an LCI with the N57 or a pre-LCI with the M57. The needles suggest LCI?

Clean both the MAF and MAP sensor with electrical contact cleaner. You'll then need to run the MAF adaptations reset in ISTA as the MAF readings could differ once cleaned.

Are any fault codes showing?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by Len_Beach

Is it an LCI with the N57 or a pre-LCI with the M57. The needles suggest LCI?

Clean both the MAF and MAP sensor with electrical contact cleaner. You'll then need to run the MAF adaptations reset in ISTA as the MAF readings could differ once cleaned.

Are any fault codes showing?

Hi mate,

It's pre lci (56 plate) with M57N2 engine. Unfortunately INPA doesn't work at the moment, I have ISTA D but not sure if the same can be done?

As for fault codes I have a few..

Glow plug activation on all cyclinders
MOST issues, radio issues, REAR parking sensor short circuit.. I'll have to post some screenshots later

[forgemarco]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Hi mate,

It's pre lci (56 plate) with M57N2 engine. Unfortunately INPA doesn't work at the moment, I have ISTA D but not sure if the same can be done?

As for fault codes I have a few..

Glow plug activation on all cyclinders
MOST issues, radio issues, REAR parking sensor short circuit.. I'll have to post some screenshots later

Your Dpf won't regen with the glow plug fault codes, I've recently replaced both my stats, glow plug relay and glow plugs. I have a 2007 325d and get around 40 on the computer on average.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by forgemarco

Your Dpf won't regen with the glow plug fault codes, I've recently replaced both my stats, glow plug relay and glow plugs. I have a 2007 325d and get around 40 on the computer on average.

with the new stats what temperature do you see now? Is it solid 90-92 and is it the same for motorway runs?

And also I'm wondering if it's just the glow plug relay that needs replacing, reason being is if I put the ignition on and wait for the lights to go out the car starts perfectly.. it's only if I turn the engine off (leaving the ignition on) and then start the car that it struggles.. So I could be wrong but after reading the job of the relay I'd say it's like the relay doesn't keep the voltage on the glow plugs, if it was the glow plugs themselves I would have expected the poor start all the time.

[forgemarco]

Mine always started fine but thought it was worth doing anyway. Haven't checked in a while but the temp did go up to 90ish after, I'm away for a couple weeks now so can't check again either. Can you read your soot content of the dpf?

[Len_Beach]

I'd suggest replacing the glow plugs and the controller; search the Bosch and Beru catalogues and you'll be able to find OE spec parts much cheaper than a Dealer.
Then clear the codes and try a regen in ISTA. A DPF fault is usually as a result of an underlying issue rather than a DPF specific fault.

[MrSweet1991]

Hi All,

Been a little busy but I do have some updates, I contacted bmw cotswold and got both thermostats, o ring and crankcase breather vortex type ordered and delivered today so they're ready to go in and I also popped to euro car parts and purchased a bosch air filter.. All I need now is some electric cleaner for the MAP and as for the MAF I'll have to leave it for now until I get INPA fixed as I only have ISTA D working and not sure if you can clear the MAF values in there.. I'll take some pics of the installation and the state of the EGR and Intake Manifold and anything else..

Oh does anyone know if an intake manifold gasket set from fleabay would be okay? They're like £8 for the complete set, BMW wanted well over £40 as they split the bottom square 6 gaskets for £22ish and top 6 gaskets for £20ish and the EGR so it's a massive bill for rubber haha

I'll also be taking some before and after videos of the MPG

[forgemarco]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Hi All,

Been a little busy but I do have some updates, I contacted bmw cotswold and got both thermostats, o ring and crankcase breather vortex type ordered and delivered today so they're ready to go in and I also popped to euro car parts and purchased a bosch air filter.. All I need now is some electric cleaner for the MAP and as for the MAF I'll have to leave it for now until I get INPA fixed as I only have ISTA D working and not sure if you can clear the MAF values in there.. I'll take some pics of the installation and the state of the EGR and Intake Manifold and anything else..

Oh does anyone know if an intake manifold gasket set from fleabay would be okay? They're like £8 for the complete set, BMW wanted well over £40 as they split the bottom square 6 gaskets for £22ish and top 6 gaskets for £20ish and the EGR so it's a massive bill for rubber haha

I'll also be taking some before and after videos of the MPG

Don't forget if you have glow plug faults your dpf still won't regen so I'd sort that at the same time.

[davealfa11]

plus gas dissolves crud from map as well as egr components

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by davealfa11

plus gas dissolves crud from map as well as egr components

Thanks Dave, will have a look

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by forgemarco

Don't forget if you have glow plug faults your dpf still won't regen so I'd sort that at the same time.

Hi mate, apologies for not stating earlier but I think my dpf is empty and regen has been coded out with the remap it had. I don't have any proof of this but given ISTA D gives me a warning it would suggest the ECU has been tampered with (backing up the supposed remap)

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Thanks Dave, will have a look

Hi Dave, do you know if there's any difference removing the carbon between the Plus Gas listed on Amazon to the one listed on Euro Car Parts? euro Car Parts has the "Fast Release Aero" or something..

And can anyone chime in on the Intake Manifold gasket set? eBay ones are around £6 for the whole set BMW is £22 just for the bottom 6

[forgemarco]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Hi mate, apologies for not stating earlier but I think my dpf is empty and regen has been coded out with the remap it had. I don't have any proof of this but given ISTA D gives me a warning it would suggest the ECU has been tampered with (backing up the supposed remap)

Shouldn't have anything to worry about there then, you might be able to check if your soot content shows a value to confirm.