Need input on removing stock brake lines

wren57 · 08-06-2017, 08:42 PM

I am using a flare nut wrench and turning the 11mm nut - problem is the hard line is trying to turn with it. No amount of PB blaster or SeaFoam penetrator will stop this from happening. Already snapped one hard line (part 34326853500 - front drivers side). Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

LMB335IS · 08-06-2017, 09:10 PM

The hard line should be able to be held with another wrench at the connection point. One wrench on each side, rubber line and hard line.

juld0zer · 08-07-2017, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

The hard line should be able to be held with another wrench at the connection point. One wrench on each side, rubber line and hard line.

Yeah dont trust the indexed hole in the bracket. Use a spanner and hold the square on the female fitting of the rubber hose and an 11mm flare spanner if you have one should shift the union nut easily. Unless your car has a lot of rust?

wren57 · 08-09-2017, 08:59 PM

Whenever I turn the 11mm nut with my flare nut wrench the whole line turns. The 14mm side doesn't turn at all as the bracket holds it. I managed to remove the other front by taking the bracket off and turning the side with the rubber on. Now I'm stuck on the back ones as there is no way to remove the bracket there. The hard lines are turning with the 11mm on them as well. Never again buying a northern car!

feuer · 08-09-2017, 09:05 PM

Two wrenches are a must as well as penetrating oil and often torch. Brake fluid is very corrosive so even southern car can experience this issue. There are no rules really.

wren57 · 08-09-2017, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feuer

Two wrenches are a must as well as penetrating oil and often torch. Brake fluid is very corrosive so even southern car can experience this issue. There are no rules really.

The second wrench never comes into play because the nut never gets loose enough for that side to turn. But yes I will use one once I get there. I always forget I have a torch... will have to try that.

dleccord · 08-10-2017, 01:50 AM

If you're replacing rubber lines, do yourself a favor and cut the rubber and use a box end wrench.

juld0zer · 08-10-2017, 03:02 AM

Cutting the hose won't fix his problem though. His problem is the union nut is twisting the hard line with the nut, as if they were welded together. OP might have no choice but to replace the hardlines. Could try turning it clockwise to try and shock the thing apart but sometimes they are just seized

mweisdorfer · 08-11-2017, 09:52 PM

You can create your own brake line or fix it with a patch kit. If you have a bubble flair kit and some poly steel brake line, you can make your own steel brake line. They do make patch kits for steel brake lines.

As far as getting the lines off, they can be a B@tch. Two wrenches, Kroil oil soaking over night and a torch with yellow bottle.

I'd try Kroil oil first; soak it overnight.

If not, use the torch. Blast it 6-7 seconds. Try and break it loose. If not, repeat 4 to 5 times until it does.

Heat is an amazing thing

Vincebmw e46 · 07-01-2020, 12:45 PM

I am trying to diagnose a fault on the rear of my E93. I decided to relace the rear flexy brake hose. The union nut on the steel line turned very easily in the flexy. There is no way on God's earth that the union nut will turn in the steel line. I have twisted the pipe and broken it. I am certain that you will always need to replace a section of the steel pipe if you try and replace the flexy. I shall write more when I have done more.

08-06-2017, 08:42 PM	#1
wren57 Roll Tide 591 Rep 2,345 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St Louis iTrader: (10)	Need input on removing stock brake lines I am using a flare nut wrench and turning the 11mm nut - problem is the hard line is trying to turn with it. No amount of PB blaster or SeaFoam penetrator will stop this from happening. Already snapped one hard line (part 34326853500 - front drivers side). Any idea what I'm doing wrong? __________________ Fix your broken/stripped cowl bolts with this elegant brass solution! http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20230306
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08-06-2017, 09:10 PM	#2
LMB335IS Sua Sponte 1299 Rep 2,850 Posts Drives: 2013 LMB 335is Join Date: May 2008 Location: FOB FL iTrader: (21) Garage List 2013 BMW 335is [8.84]	The hard line should be able to be held with another wrench at the connection point. One wrench on each side, rubber line and hard line. __________________ 335is/DCT-M3 GTS software-M3 drivetrain-M3 GWS-KOMBI-DSC-SZL/MHD/BQ Tuning IG@ClustersandCoding
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08-09-2017, 08:59 PM	#4
wren57 Roll Tide 591 Rep 2,345 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St Louis iTrader: (10)	Whenever I turn the 11mm nut with my flare nut wrench the whole line turns. The 14mm side doesn't turn at all as the bracket holds it. I managed to remove the other front by taking the bracket off and turning the side with the rubber on. Now I'm stuck on the back ones as there is no way to remove the bracket there. The hard lines are turning with the 11mm on them as well. Never again buying a northern car! __________________ Fix your broken/stripped cowl bolts with this elegant brass solution! http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20230306
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08-09-2017, 09:05 PM	#5
feuer Major General 4276 Rep 9,209 Posts Drives: wife crazy! Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (5)	Two wrenches are a must as well as penetrating oil and often torch. Brake fluid is very corrosive so even southern car can experience this issue. There are no rules really.
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08-10-2017, 01:50 AM	#7
dleccord Captain 99 Rep 841 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 335i E90 Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Nelson, New Zealand iTrader: (0)	If you're replacing rubber lines, do yourself a favor and cut the rubber and use a box end wrench.
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08-10-2017, 03:02 AM	#8
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	Cutting the hose won't fix his problem though. His problem is the union nut is twisting the hard line with the nut, as if they were welded together. OP might have no choice but to replace the hardlines. Could try turning it clockwise to try and shock the thing apart but sometimes they are just seized
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08-11-2017, 09:52 PM	#9
mweisdorfer Major General 1905 Rep 6,968 Posts Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Holly, MI iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 BMW E90 335i [0.00] 2008 bmw x5 [0.00]	You can create your own brake line or fix it with a patch kit. If you have a bubble flair kit and some poly steel brake line, you can make your own steel brake line. They do make patch kits for steel brake lines. As far as getting the lines off, they can be a B@tch. Two wrenches, Kroil oil soaking over night and a torch with yellow bottle. I'd try Kroil oil first; soak it overnight. If not, use the torch. Blast it 6-7 seconds. Try and break it loose. If not, repeat 4 to 5 times until it does. Heat is an amazing thing
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07-01-2020, 12:45 PM	#10
Vincebmw e46 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: bmw e46 bmw e93 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: england iTrader: (0)	Brake pipes. I am trying to diagnose a fault on the rear of my E93. I decided to relace the rear flexy brake hose. The union nut on the steel line turned very easily in the flexy. There is no way on God's earth that the union nut will turn in the steel line. I have twisted the pipe and broken it. I am certain that you will always need to replace a section of the steel pipe if you try and replace the flexy. I shall write more when I have done more.
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