[M3nic]

Hey everyone, I picked up an 08 328xi e90, 70-72k miles.

I was pushing the gas a bit the other night, SES light comes on violent shaking. Ran a generic obd 2 scan, p code comes up pertaining to thermostat temperature.

It's been very cold, I picked the car up in the fall, no issues then, but does this sound like a thermostat, water pump, temp sensor, spark plug, ignition coil job , solenoid ?

I'm not a big DIY, not taking it to Bmw it's prob the worst dealership experience I ever had aside from this- they lost my car for three weeks detailing it until one really helpful guy helped me out and I still haven't gotten my spare key .

Plugs and coils don't look too bad, but I may need to bring it to a shop it's so cold out.
Thanks again for all the help here.

[tlow98]

Generic codes don’t really help with these cars. A BMW specific code reader would diagnose your issue exactly. Can be had for <$100.

Generally thermostat issues do not cause violent shaking.

Can’t really help you without knowing the code.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Generic codes don’t really help with these cars. A BMW specific code reader would diagnose your issue exactly. Can be had for <$100.

Generally thermostat issues do not cause violent shaking.

Can’t really help you without knowing the code.

Originally Posted by tlow98

Generic codes don’t really help with these cars. A BMW specific code reader would diagnose your issue exactly. Can be had for <$100.

Generally thermostat issues do not cause violent shaking.

Can’t really help you without knowing the code.

P0128 was the code, thanks for getting back to me

[jt335i]

Take it to an indy shop, or if you know someone that does, that specializes in BMWs and have them check it.

[Tim_354841]

Some quick googling indicates this could be a thermostat failure (or could simply be low coolant).

I'm assuming the shaking wasn't "wheels, brakes, suspension, and tires," but more of a "low engine power / poor engine performance."

When the car starts to overheat, it will cut power to protect the engine. On my 2011 335i, it feels like a dead spot in the gas pedal. It's in the shop today for what I expect will be a water pump + thermostat diagnostic & replacement.

"spark plug, ignition coil job , solenoid " may be overkill & not necessary. Wait to spend the money (or the time) until you need to.

Caveat: I'm new here.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by Tim_354841

Some quick googling indicates this could be a thermostat failure (or could simply be low coolant).

I'm assuming the shaking wasn't "wheels, brakes, suspension, and tires," but more of a "low engine power / poor engine performance."

When the car starts to overheat, it will cut power to protect the engine. On my 2011 335i, it feels like a dead spot in the gas pedal. It's in the shop today for what I expect will be a water pump + thermostat diagnostic & replacement.

Caveat: I'm new here.

Originally Posted by tlow98

Generic codes don’t really help with these cars. A BMW specific code reader would diagnose your issue exactly. Can be had for <$100.

Generally thermostat issues do not cause violent shaking.

Can’t really help you without knowing the code.

Originally Posted by Tim_354841

Some quick googling indicates this could be a thermostat failure (or could simply be low coolant).

I'm assuming the shaking wasn't "wheels, brakes, suspension, and tires," but more of a "low engine power / poor engine performance."

When the car starts to overheat, it will cut power to protect the engine. On my 2011 335i, it feels like a dead spot in the gas pedal. It's in the shop today for what I expect will be a water pump + thermostat diagnostic & replacement.

Caveat: I'm new here.

Please let me know the outcome and thank you for letting me know.
Correct low engine power

[Tim_354841]

Verdict: $1600 for a water pump replacement. Going to DIY.

Doesn’t mean that’s your issue, though.

Have a code reader? Should see a fault code for thermostat and/or water pump

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by Tim_354841

Verdict: $1600 for a water pump replacement. Going to DIY.

Doesn’t mean that’s your issue, though.

Have a code reader? Should see a fault code for thermostat and/or water pump

Originally Posted by Tim_354841

Verdict: $1600 for a water pump replacement. Going to DIY.

Doesn’t mean that’s your issue, though.

Have a code reader? Should see a fault code for thermostat and/or water pump

I've got a code reader, but here it is

I'm in the city - I see you're in DC, please let me know if you take photos or video of it - I may go Indy here but let me know the outcome of your diy
I think a thermostat should be replaced too while you're down there
I'm told by another post it could also be a misfire so lots of work

[OP3NAIR]

Violent shaking and an SES light sounds more like a misfire than the thermostat. If the power gets cut for the thermostat/water pump, like said above, no matter how hard you push the gas theres just no power at all. You can typically hear the ignition breaking up in a high load misfire like you describe, it would make the car shutter, but it would also throw an OBD code that any code reader would catch.
Scan with a BMW tool and see if there's any shadow codes being thrown.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by OP3NAIR

Violent shaking and an SES light sounds more like a misfire than the thermostat. If the power gets cut for the thermostat/water pump, like said above, no matter how hard you push the gas theres just no power at all. You can typically hear the ignition breaking up in a high load misfire like you describe, it would make the car shutter, but it would also throw an OBD code that any code reader would catch.
Scan with a BMW tool and see if there's any shadow codes being thrown.

Originally Posted by Tim_354841

Verdict: $1600 for a water pump replacement. Going to DIY.

Doesn’t mean that’s your issue, though.

Have a code reader? Should see a fault code for thermostat and/or water pump

Originally Posted by OP3NAIR

Violent shaking and an SES light sounds more like a misfire than the thermostat. If the power gets cut for the thermostat/water pump, like said above, no matter how hard you push the gas theres just no power at all. You can typically hear the ignition breaking up in a high load misfire like you describe, it would make the car shutter, but it would also throw an OBD code that any code reader would catch.
Scan with a BMW tool and see if there's any shadow codes being thrown.

Thanks- I am going to replace the coil injections and spark plugs for now then if it continues probably water pump and thermostat by the next few months

[Efthreeoh]

The T-stat throws an SES code due to emissions and resultant lack of fast warm up is elongating cold start emissions. The T-stat will not cause a drivability issue such as you described. There is an ignition or fuel supply issue that is causing the drivability problem. It is possible that whatever code reader you used did not easily let you see additional trouble codes stored in the ECU. The ECU can store multiple trouble codes. Scan the car again.

Water pump codes require a BMW scan tool.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The T-stat throws an SES code due to emissions and resultant lack of fast warm up is elongating cold start emissions. The T-stat will not cause a drivability issue such as you described. There is an ignition or fuel supply issue that is causing the drivability problem. It is possible that whatever code reader you used did not easily let you see additional trouble codes stored in the ECU. The ECU can store multiple trouble codes. Scan the car again.

Water pump codes require a BMW scan tool.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The T-stat throws an SES code due to emissions and resultant lack of fast warm up is elongating cold start emissions. The T-stat will not cause a drivability issue such as you described. There is an ignition or fuel supply issue that is causing the drivability problem. It is possible that whatever code reader you used did not easily let you see additional trouble codes stored in the ECU. The ECU can store multiple trouble codes. Scan the car again.

Water pump codes require a BMW scan tool.

Thanks so is it absolutely impossible to see any other codes using a regular scan tool ? It seems like everyone is saying it's a misfire . So maybe a full coil injection pack replacement needs to happen along with spark plugs, then maybe a thermostat and water pump as preventative ?

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by M3nic

Thanks so is it absolutely impossible to see any other codes using a regular scan tool ? It seems like everyone is saying it's a misfire . So maybe a full coil injection pack replacement needs to happen along with spark plugs, then maybe a thermostat and water pump as preventative ?

Dude you have 2 minor issues... stuck open thermostat and a misfire due to a bad coil probably.

The P0128 code means that the engine coolant is not getting warm enough.. i had this code due to a stuck open thermostat, no harm to engine unless you are in a cold weather location, then you would want to fix it to run your heater.

When I had this issue, cleared code with an Torque app and a code reader it and drove for a year or 2 until my water pump died then I replaced both water pump and thermostat.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Dude you have 2 minor issues... stuck open thermostat and a misfire due to a bad coil probably.

The P0128 code means that the engine coolant is not getting warm enough.. i had this code due to a stuck open thermostat, no harm to engine unless you are in a cold weather location, then you would want to fix it to run your heater.

When I had this issue, cleared code with an Torque app and a code reader it and drove for a year or 2 until my water pump died then I replaced both water pump and thermostat.

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Dude you have 2 minor issues... stuck open thermostat and a misfire due to a bad coil probably.

The P0128 code means that the engine coolant is not getting warm enough.. i had this code due to a stuck open thermostat, no harm to engine unless you are in a cold weather location, then you would want to fix it to run your heater.

When I had this issue, cleared code with an Torque app and a code reader it and drove for a year or 2 until my water pump died then I replaced both water pump and thermostat.

Thanks - can any Indy mechanic do this ? I know the misfire can be fixed by mechanic or I. I'm in a very cold environment as of now into spring hopefully it holds up until I can get it checked this month

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by M3nic

Thanks so is it absolutely impossible to see any other codes using a regular scan tool ? It seems like everyone is saying it's a misfire . So maybe a full coil injection pack replacement needs to happen along with spark plugs, then maybe a thermostat and water pump as preventative ?

Yeah, you really need a BMW specific scanner to see exactly what's going on. The difference is you could guess and check several times while throwing parts, time and money at it or just get a BMW scanner, read the code, repair and be done with it.

The ~$80 Carly BMW scanner will tether to your phone and give you all that you need. If you're a DIY person and this is your first BMW it will save you all the time and headaches you could imagine. Conversely, it will keep you from getting ripped off if you don't DIY. Considering getting ripped off normally means $1,000 minimum it's a smart investment.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Yeah, you really need a BMW specific scanner to see exactly what's going on. The difference is you could guess and check several times while throwing parts, time and money at it or just get a BMW scanner, read the code, repair and be done with it.

The ~$80 Carly BMW scanner will tether to your phone and give you all that you need. If you're a DIY person and this is your first BMW it will save you all the time and headaches you could imagine. Conversely, it will keep you from getting ripped off if you don't DIY. Considering getting ripped off normally means $1,000 minimum it's a smart investment.

Yes and no...

No he does not need a BMW Carly scanner for this. I bought a cheap code scanner on ebay for like $10 . Its Bluetooth and can be connected to a phone or tablet. I installed the TORQUE app, its free. I even cleared the SES code when I found out it was only my thermostat that was bad.

Regarding the misfire, he can check each coil individually by pulling them one at a time and see if the misfire follows coil.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by M3nic

Thanks so is it absolutely impossible to see any other codes using a regular scan tool ? It seems like everyone is saying it's a misfire . So maybe a full coil injection pack replacement needs to happen along with spark plugs, then maybe a thermostat and water pump as preventative ?

Usually the T-stat code is for a faulty heating coil built into the thermostat, which is not operating correctly allowing the T-stat to open when it should close. A BMW scan tool will tell you exactly what code it is and lead to a more precise diagnosis. The P0128 code is the generic OBD2 code that just tells you the T-stat is causing a cold start emissions issue. There has to be a second code stored in the ECU that will tell you which cylinder has or had a misfire, if indeed a misfire is causing the drivability issues. With the age of your car (miles), I'd replace just the coil that is causing a misfire, not the whole rack of 6. People will say different I'm sure.

The '06 cars lost T-stats more regularly than the '08s. The original T-stat was aluminum, the redesigned part is plastic. The plastic T-stats were the fix for the early car's issues. Basically it made sense to replace the aluminum T-stat IF you were replacing the water pump, but not the other way around. The T-stat has to come out first to get to the pump, so there is no additional labor cost to replace the T-stat while replacing the WP.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Usually the T-stat code is for a faulty heating coil built into the thermostat, which is not operating correctly allowing the T-stat to open when it should close. A BMW scan tool will tell you exactly what code it is and lead to a more precise diagnosis. The P0128 code is the generic OBD2 code that just tells you the T-stat is causing a cold start emissions issue. There has to be a second code stored in the ECU that will tell you which cylinder has or had a misfire, if indeed a misfire is causing the drivability issues. With the age of your car (miles), I'd replace just the coil that is causing a misfire, not the whole rack of 6. People will say different I'm sure.

The '06 cars lost T-stats more regularly than the '08s. The original T-stat was aluminum, the redesigned part is plastic. The plastic T-stats were the fix for the early car's issues. Basically it made sense to replace the aluminum T-stat IF you were replacing the water pump, but not the other way around. The T-stat has to come out first to get to the pump, so there is no additional labor cost to replace the T-stat while replacing the WP.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Usually the T-stat code is for a faulty heating coil built into the thermostat, which is not operating correctly allowing the T-stat to open when it should close. A BMW scan tool will tell you exactly what code it is and lead to a more precise diagnosis. The P0128 code is the generic OBD2 code that just tells you the T-stat is causing a cold start emissions issue. There has to be a second code stored in the ECU that will tell you which cylinder has or had a misfire, if indeed a misfire is causing the drivability issues. With the age of your car (miles), I'd replace just the coil that is causing a misfire, not the whole rack of 6. People will say different I'm sure.

The '06 cars lost T-stats more regularly than the '08s. The original T-stat was aluminum, the redesigned part is plastic. The plastic T-stats were the fix for the early car's issues. Basically it made sense to replace the aluminum T-stat IF you were replacing the water pump, but not the other way around. The T-stat has to come out first to get to the pump, so there is no additional labor cost to replace the T-stat while replacing the WP.

Thanks very much - it seems like everyone is pointing towards a misfire and possibly open thermostat .
Maybe the best thing to do is replace the malfunctioning one or all, then thermostat and water pump as preventative.
Thanks

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by M3nic

Thanks very much - it seems like everyone is pointing towards a misfire and possibly open thermostat .
Maybe the best thing to do is replace the malfunctioning one or all, then thermostat and water pump as preventative.
Thanks

[catcher22]

Originally Posted by M3nic

they lost my car for three weeks detailing it until one really helpful guy helped me out and I still haven't gotten my spare key

id like to know more about this

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by catcher22

id like to know more about this

Originally Posted by catcher22

id like to know more about this

I had an awful experience. Happy to share. So I found the car on the bike inventory site, called and spoke with an internet sales person, they held my car with a $500 Amex deposti. I test drove it, seemed fine, the salesman had a Mercedes, seemed clueless about the car and as if I did him a favor buying it.

Financing was a mess, they ran my credit which is past 700 and gave me some ridiculous rate of 8%. I noticed the bumpers were scratched, they seriously thought they'd sell a car like this. They agreed to paint the bumpers within Thirty days and supply a second key. I finally set up the paint job, met with a nice man who said a few days. I said to also check the heater and the two recalls. Mind you they also refused a loaner when they promised one, I had to fight for one and finally got one. I called every other day after the car was there a week, never heard back . Finally one day about three weeks in, the man who took my car in went asking around at all the shops and found it was completed and was sitting for two weeks. The heater wasn't even looked at and I was told the parts weren't ready for the recall . The secondary key still is missing in action after numerous calls to the dealer and service dept. it amazes me how a car went missing this long. But now the least of my problems as I am looking st hefty repairs.

[M3nic]

Originally Posted by M3nic

I had an awful experience. Happy to share. So I found the car on the bike inventory site, called and spoke with an internet sales person, they held my car with a $500 Amex deposti. I test drove it, seemed fine, the salesman had a Mercedes, seemed clueless about the car and as if I did him a favor buying it.

Financing was a mess, they ran my credit which is past 700 and gave me some ridiculous rate of 8%. I noticed the bumpers were scratched, they seriously thought they'd sell a car like this. They agreed to paint the bumpers within Thirty days and supply a second key. I finally set up the paint job, met with a nice man who said a few days. I said to also check the heater and the two recalls. Mind you they also refused a loaner when they promised one, I had to fight for one and finally got one. I called every other day after the car was there a week, never heard back . Finally one day about three weeks in, the man who took my car in went asking around at all the shops and found it was completed and was sitting for two weeks. The heater wasn't even looked at and I was told the parts weren't ready for the recall . The secondary key still is missing in action after numerous calls to the dealer and service dept. it amazes me how a car went missing this long. But now the least of my problems as I am looking st hefty repairs.

Bringing it in this week - mechanic was backed up. I got into the temp menu- looks like it's within normal limits but Monday will tell us more .