[WINCOE92]

Since the unveiling of xHp's xDelete I've been scouring the forum for LSD conversion builds on xDrive 335's but have found very little. The initial videos of this system have been kind of underwhelming with the one wheel peels. I know of a couple members who've made the leap but the posts are over five years old. I'd like to start discussion with those more familiar with altering the xDrive system. I'd like to start conversation about the manufacturers offering compatible differentials, the conversion process, changes to coding, handling dynamics, power delivery, and potential behavior of such a conversion with xDelete in effect. I would love to experience the dynamics of an LSD RWD come dry weather while still maintaining the xDrive capability for the Colorado winters, is this too much to ask?

'08 335xi MHD Stage 1+, 7" FMIC, BMS Chargepipe w/ maintenance done

[WINCOE92]

Bump

[feuer]

Nothing in the rear on your 335xi is diferent than RWD 335i. Your search for answers should end with that. However don't expect to handle 100% as RWD with Xdelete. Front suspension is deferent as well as the weight distribution....

[cortez08]

I will be doing an LSD conversion on my XI shortly. I am in the process of deciding which diff to go with.

I too am interested in hearing feed back from someone who has actually performed the swap. How well did it assist in traction and handling characteristics. I am not expecting the same results as a RWD conversion and I plan on running 600 to 700 with rear LSD at the wheels in AWD. I am hoping MFactory makes the front LSD as I will run that as well.

Most of the older posts you mentioned have good feedback so I am optimistic. I will report back when mine has been completed.

[Beas]

get a local shop to weld the diff. $100 and works great. or spend $2000 so your wheels don't skip when u turn into a parking spot.

[Spyro235]

Originally Posted by Beas

get a local shop to weld the diff. $100 and works great. or spend $2000 so your wheels don't skip when u turn into a parking spot.

I'v got a drift car with a welded diff, and when I first welded the diff it gave the car a TOTALLY different driving experience, and handling at the limit, and really handling at any speed/ situation. I wouldn't recommend a welded diff for street use, or anything other than drifting and drag cars.

[WINCOE92]

Originally Posted by Spyro235

I'v got a drift car with a welded diff, and when I first welded the diff it gave the car a TOTALLY different driving experience, and handling at the limit, and really handling at any speed/ situation. I would recommend a welded diff for street use, or anything other than drifting and drag cars.

Am I correct in assuming you meant *wouldn't*?
I saw this comment as well and took it with a LARGE grain of salt lol. Fact is, I'm not welding my daily's diff. I appreciate your contribution!

[Beas]

Originally Posted by WINCOE92

Am I correct in assuming you meant *wouldn't*?
I saw this comment as well and took it with a LARGE grain of salt lol. Fact is, I'm not welding my daily's diff. I appreciate your contribution!

if u got the money, an lsd is the way to go. for me id rather put $2k into the engine or suspension and just use a welded diff. daily drove one for a few years. wasn't bad at all, don't even notice it most of the time.

[Spyro235]

Originally Posted by WINCOE92

Am I correct in assuming you meant *wouldn't*?
I saw this comment as well and took it with a LARGE grain of salt lol. Fact is, I'm not welding my daily's diff. I appreciate your contribution!

I did mean wouldN'T!! Large grain of salt indeed- I wouldn't tell anyone to daily drive a welded diff. Sorry about that!

[WINCOE92]

Originally Posted by Beas

if u got the money, an lsd is the way to go. for me id rather put $2k into the engine or suspension and just use a welded diff. daily drove one for a few years. wasn't bad at all, don't even notice it most of the time.

Prioritizing mod money is never easy but besides maintenance upkeep the only other thing I'm thinking for the engine will be dps and custom tune, perhaps lpfp and custom e50 map. I'm thinking KW V1 coilovers next, then xDelete with LSD once I get the summer tires on. I agree though, 2k isn't a trivial amount!

[WINCOE92]

Bump! Looking for any input using LSD's with xDrive/xDelete!

[srey]

I don't want to hijack your thread, but ever since your OP I've been wondering why you would want to do an xDelete. You still have all the AWD running gear, right? So you have to haul more deadweight around if you disconnect the axles, or whatever is involved with xDelete. Care to elaborate why you would xDelete?

EDIT: Never mind. I found their FAQ. I still don't see why you would want to do an xDelete on an xDrive car.

[WINCOE92]

Originally Posted by srey

I don't want to hijack your thread, but ever since your OP I've been wondering why you would want to do an xDelete. You still have all the AWD running gear, right? So you have to haul more deadweight around if you disconnect the axles, or whatever is involved with xDelete. Care to elaborate why you would xDelete?

EDIT: Never mind. I found their FAQ. I still don't see why you would want to do an xDelete on an xDrive car.

Originally Posted by srey

I don't want to hijack your thread, but ever since your OP I've been wondering why you would want to do an xDelete. You still have all the AWD running gear, right? So you have to haul more deadweight around if you disconnect the axles, or whatever is involved with xDelete. Care to elaborate why you would xDelete?

EDIT: Never mind. I found their FAQ. I still don't see why you would want to do an xDelete on an xDrive car.

The beauty of xDelete is the ability for xDrive owners to switch between AWD and RWD at will. The driving dynamics implications of switching between the two, as well as (minimal) power gain as a result of drivetrain efficiency improvements makes for a different driving experience. Your question and tone indicate you think I am considering this as a permanent solution when in the OP I've specified just the opposite. I'd like to experience the dynamics of a RWD in summer while utilizing my AWD in the CO winter and rain.

[srey]

Originally Posted by WINCOE92

The beauty of xDelete is the ability for xDrive owners to switch between AWD and RWD at will. The driving dynamics implications of switching between the two, as well as (minimal) power gain as a result of drivetrain efficiency improvements makes for a different driving experience. Your question and tone indicate you think I am considering this as a permanent solution when in the OP I've specified just the opposite. I'd like to experience the dynamics of a RWD in summer while utilizing my AWD in the CO winter and rain.

I didn't intend any condescension. I was just trying to understand why. Now I know. Good luck with the project!

[chilingirov]

Hi guys,
I drive e92 n55 xdrive and I did the following upgrades:
- KW V3 coilovers
- Rear M3 strut brace
- Handmade LSD 40/15 with upgraded bearings
- xHP stage 3
- xDelete
- MHD stage 2 (couldn’t get with the JB4)
- BMW performance brakes

I can share my experience- the car is very smooth and linear with the MHD remap (compared to the boost kick of the jb4) and is easily controllable in the corners.
After changing the rear strut with thicker there is no ugly understearing behavior.
I’ve tried several mods to make it RWD till xDelete came to the market. Since that time I’m always in RWD mode (even on snow) and the car feels much stronger. In fact the guys who invented the xDelete soft did some dyno pulls with their test n54 335 in 4x4 and RW mode, as someone already mentioned - there are more transmission losses in 4x4, so you can enjoy 15-20hp more when you switch to rear.
About the LSD - you should invest in it. You can easily rotate the car and predict its behavior. When you want to accelerate on WOT, the car goes perfectly straight and even if you smash the gas pedal in the apex, you know when exactly the rear end will go.

When I did some research I found that there are 2 different types for the rear diff on xDrive 335i cars. You have to check which is yours.

Very useful links for me were these:
https://bmw.***********.com/threads/swap-188mm-auto-pumpkin-for-215mm-diff-cover-options.1561/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1102264
Onelapx1.com (I don’t know why it doesn’t work)

In the end: 335ix is nice car which can do some fast laps on track days and can be as safe as your wife would like.
It’s not an M3

Regards,
Niki

[fishmando]

Originally Posted by Spyro235

I'v got a drift car with a welded diff, and when I first welded the diff it gave the car a TOTALLY different driving experience, and handling at the limit, and really handling at any speed/ situation. I wouldn't recommend a welded diff for street use, or anything other than drifting and drag cars.

I disagree, as long as you don't have children riding with you, I highly recommend welding the differential. It's fun and affordable.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by WINCOE92

Since the unveiling of xHp's xDelete I've been scouring the forum for LSD conversion builds on xDrive 335's but have found very little. The initial videos of this system have been kind of underwhelming with the one wheel peels. I know of a couple members who've made the leap but the posts are over five years old. I'd like to start discussion with those more familiar with altering the xDrive system. I'd like to start conversation about the manufacturers offering compatible differentials, the conversion process, changes to coding, handling dynamics, power delivery, and potential behavior of such a conversion with xDelete in effect. I would love to experience the dynamics of an LSD RWD come dry weather while still maintaining the xDrive capability for the Colorado winters, is this too much to ask?

'08 335xi MHD Stage 1+, 7" FMIC, BMS Chargepipe w/ maintenance done

You've really got 3 options

1) M-factory - least expensive
2) Wave Track- middle
3) Quaiffe - most expensive

You can buy the entire pumpkin and it's pretty much plug & play or you can buy the parts and retrofit the gears & new bearings yourself, and or pay a trustworthy shop that specializes in European Autos to do the work. They will probably charge you $85 to $100 / hour. I can't imaging them charging you more that $600.00. A lift is a huge advantage. They will have to drop part of the exhaust to get the differential out. It helps to have mufflers that are either 335is or PE. All they have to do is unbolt the mufflers, and it's gets considerably easier to drop the Differential.

Each Diff has its pros & cons. Research, research research!!!!!!

There's probably about a $700.00 price difference between an M-factory & a Quaiffe. If your spending $2000.00, then $2700.00 SHOULD'nt be the issue. It's not about the money, it's about how they work and what you think which one will fit your needs. Also, each one will brag about how they are made and that's why you should choose their product. You'll have to "sift" through that info as well.

Just my 2 cents.

[renizer]

Originally Posted by chilingirov

- Rear M3 strut brace
[...]
After changing the rear strut with thicker there is no ugly understearing behavior.

Hey Niki, just wondering what you meant by the thicker rear struts and that M3 strut brace you mentioned?
That said, I just put in a Wavetrac

[blown07]

Originally Posted by chilingirov

- there are more transmission losses in 4x4, so you can enjoy 15-20hp more when you switch to rear.
About the LSD - you should invest in it. You can easily rotate the car and
Regards,
Niki

Well all the power will go to the rear wheels but the rear wheels will have to drive the front drive components through the road instead of the transfer case. The net effect is zero more total wheel horsepower and only slower acceleration when traction is limited.

[ewicky]

Originally Posted by blown07

Well all the power will go to the rear wheels but the rear wheels will have to drive the front drive components through the road instead of the transfer case. The net effect is zero more total wheel horsepower and only slower acceleration when traction is limited.

I couldn't agree more. The notion that xDelete gains you even 1 HP is idiotic. That's simply the deficiency of RWD dynos. Put an xDeleted car on an AWD dyno and it will register the exact same HP. If you really drilled down to it, I'd bet operating in AWD mode is actually slightly more efficient, and therefor delivers more HP to the ground. You have less slip angle on each tire and the rear diff is not under extreme load anymore (drivetrain losses are get exponentially worse at extreme loads). Splitting drive train losses between the front and back should be less loss overall than sending it all thru the rear, thru the road, and back up into the coasting front diff.

[MysticRob]

Yeah, driveline loss in modern cars is minimal now, and xDelete to me is more to remove the AWD variable from the high HP equation simply to help preserve the components, among some other specialized needs/desires.

https://xdelete.app/xdelete_faq.pdf
"Protect the xDrive from too much torque in big power cars"

I've had both the RWD and AWD versions of the N54, and when mildly tuned like OP's ride, I'll stick with AWD just for the improved traction it provides over the peg-legged RWD. From a dig it's just much more fun. Unless you're running stickier and wider tires in the rear on RWD cars (aka more expensive), the tune is almost a waste as it's traction-limited down low.
The added cost of an LSD to then counteract the RWD-converted deficiencies is just money down the drain, IMO.

[WINCOE92]

Originally Posted by MysticRob

Yeah, driveline loss in modern cars is minimal now, and xDelete to me is more to remove the AWD variable from the high HP equation simply to help preserve the components, among some other specialized needs/desires.

https://xdelete.app/xdelete_faq.pdf
"Protect the xDrive from too much torque in big power cars"

I've had both the RWD and AWD versions of the N54, and when mildly tuned like OP's ride, I'll stick with AWD just for the improved traction it provides over the peg-legged RWD. From a dig it's just much more fun. Unless you're running stickier and wider tires in the rear on RWD cars (aka more expensive), the tune is almost a waste as it's traction-limited down low.
The added cost of an LSD to then counteract the RWD-converted deficiencies is just money down the drain, IMO.

Originally Posted by MysticRob

Yeah, driveline loss in modern cars is minimal now, and xDelete to me is more to remove the AWD variable from the high HP equation simply to help preserve the components, among some other specialized needs/desires.

https://xdelete.app/xdelete_faq.pdf
"Protect the xDrive from too much torque in big power cars"

I've had both the RWD and AWD versions of the N54, and when mildly tuned like OP's ride, I'll stick with AWD just for the improved traction it provides over the peg-legged RWD. From a dig it's just much more fun. Unless you're running stickier and wider tires in the rear on RWD cars (aka more expensive), the tune is almost a waste as it's traction-limited down low.
The added cost of an LSD to then counteract the RWD-converted deficiencies is just money down the drain, IMO.

That's a fair point, thank you for your perspective! Along that line of thought in my mind comes AT strengthening. I've got catless dps going in in a couple days after a walnut blast/PCV valve/OCC. I am in the market for lpfp as well but I'd like to do that and Motiv flex all at once. I've not yet run or logged e30 yet. Perhaps I'll do that before dps and then after as well.

Thank you all for the input thus far!