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07-21-2008, 10:03 PM | #1 |
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Clay Bar
I spent Saturday detailing my new 06 roadster. It came out looking great, but I put a plastic bag over my fingers and rubbed them over the car. I can still feel a LOT of contaminates in the paint. I already used a Zaino clay bar once. Is there a better clay bar out there for this process? When I used the Zaino, I could actually see the contaminates in the clay bar, so I know it was working, but there is a bunch more. Do I need a more agressive clay bar? Any suggestions? Thanks!
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07-21-2008, 11:12 PM | #2 |
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I have used Pinacle Ultra Poly Clay (purchased from Auto Geek) on several occasions on my 2006 si with good results. Paint feels smooth as silk when done. This is a pretty mild clay which can be used frequently (monthly). More aggressive clay has more abrasive and should be used less often. Personally, I would be concerned about using a more aggressive clay as you can marr the paint. I am still new at this, so maybe someone else with more experience can chime in.
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07-21-2008, 11:53 PM | #3 | |
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It's better to clay the paint two or three times with a mild clay and avoid clay induced swirls rather than start with an aggressive clay and end up with lots of swirls. I just finished using Griot's clay and finished with Rejex sealant. Got a mirror smooth finish.
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07-22-2008, 08:49 AM | #4 |
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I have been using mostly Zaino products for the last 3 years. How do you like the Rejex? That is what my brother uses on his vette and he seems to like it.
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07-22-2008, 01:55 PM | #5 | |
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It's great for light colored paints including Imola Red. For dark paint I prefer to use a wax like P21S as it gives a softer, more warm look rather than the plastic look of a sealant. I had been using the new Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 which is also a polymer sealant not a wax. It's also a good sealant product and doesn't streak like the first generation NXT Tech Wax. I use the Zaino Z-2 on the 3M Scotchgard clear mask surfaces as it doesn't leave a white residue on the edges. We've got our BMW Club Concours coming up this Sunday so the Rejex is under scrutiny.
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10-06-2011, 10:36 PM | #6 |
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Sorry to revive an old thread. I figure I'd revive this instead of start a new one.
How often do you guys use a clay bar before tossing it out? I just looked at my car closely under the sun and I have light scratches now. I didn't have any when I first bought it used from the dealer. I'm thinking it is because I over used the clay bar. |
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10-06-2011, 11:26 PM | #7 | |
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You're taking containment and grinding it over the paint. You're removing it, yes...but at the same time you're grinding it over the paint as you remove more. You always need to polish after clay bar. |
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10-07-2011, 11:48 AM | #8 | |
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10-07-2011, 12:06 PM | #9 | |
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10-07-2011, 01:07 PM | #10 |
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Are you using a "lubricant" when you clay your car? Griot's says to spray their Speed Shine on the area just before you clay it. It acts as a lubricant so that you don't get them swirls and scratches. However, it's still a good idea to polish it after claying and before you seal and wax.
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10-07-2011, 09:25 PM | #11 | |
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10-19-2011, 09:05 AM | #12 | |
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10-20-2011, 02:30 PM | #13 |
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How to use Claybar video.
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10-20-2011, 09:12 PM | #14 |
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I know this thread is revived, but mothers clay is an aggressive clay and the milder it gets, well means milder with less ability to remove contaminants at the leisure of having less paint correcting to do after.
Plain and simply, you didn't clay enough or in that short time frame you picked up more contaminants...living near railroads, and industrial areas play a large role, as well as the brake pads your using
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11-02-2011, 10:13 PM | #15 | |
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11-03-2011, 01:27 AM | #16 |
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The above directions is different from what I've read on other blogs. I've read that the best thing to do is to split up the clay bar into pieces to cover the hood, roof, different panels and to only use it once. Any comments?
Still trying to decide if I should buy a buffer myself and buff out the light scratches or just pay a professional to do it this coming spring. |
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