[zipperhead]

Looking for a little direction here. Sorry this is so lengthy but I have some important details that may help determine this issue.

I just replaced the oil filter housing gasket on the wife's 2011 328i. No issues with the gasket replacement, however due to the lack having all of the tools I needed, this project ended up taking 2 days as I had to order a wrench off Amazon to complete the job today. So here's the problem - like an idiot, I closed the trunk when I was cleaning up yesterday without remembering that the battery was disconnected. I searched YouTube and was able to find out how to get the trunk open using another vehicle connected to the jump start terminals under the hood. So I pulled my 2003 F150 up next to the 328 to see if I could get it to work. When I initially hooked up the jumper cables, my truck was running and when I tried to open the trunk with the keyfob, I got no response. I also noticed that the side marker lights were on. After shutting off the truck with the jumper cables still connected, the trunk of the 328 then in fact opened with the keyfob. When I walked around the front of the vehicle I noticed that there was what I though was windshield washer fluid all over the front bumper. I later came to find out that it was actually coolant. That was the end of the day yesterday - cleaned up and was done.

Today I received the new wrench and completed the oil filter housing gasket repair. All went smoothly. When I got in the car to start it, all it did was crank but never did start. I got different errors on the display after cranking. Among others, one of the errors being the 4x4 icon with the triangle and exclamation point came up. After I was done cranking I got out of the car and walked around the front and I heard a weird sort of crackling sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. On further investigation it turned out to be coolant flowing/pissing into the reservoir from the overflow hose. Huh? The engine was cool and had not been running so what's the deal? I disconnected the battery and the coolant flow stopped. Huh? So my thoughts are that maybe I messed up a computer or the electric water pump or something else when I connected my truck up to the vehicle to get the trunk open. I never did insert the key or energize the ignition system during that time. I did disconnect the MAF sensor just to see if it would make a difference with starting. It didn't.

I sure don't wanna take it to a dealer if I don't have to.

Anybody have any thoughts?

[gbalthrop]

Thoughts:

1) Running the Engine/Alternator with the Battery disconnected will result in Overvoltage, voltage spikes, or unstable system voltage, which can damage electronics, including the DME.

2) Attaching another battery to the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood is OK, AS LONG AS the Positive Battery Cable at the battery is NOT contacting Ground/ Chassis, in which event you have a short.

3) Using jumper cables from a donor vehicle with ENGINE RUNNING creates the same result as (1), since you are substituting the Alternator of the vehicle with engine running for the Alternator of your vehicle with the battery disconnected.

4) The fact that your Remote Key worked to unlock & open the boot AFTER shutting off the Truck engine (jumper cables still connected) would tend to prove the statements made in (1) & (3).

5) If you have the headlight wash option on your vehicle, the liquid on the Front Bumper was almost certainly Washer Fluid. Overvoltage or voltage spikes cause modules to activate things attached to them, such as the JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module activating the Wipers or Washer System. Same for DME activating Coolant Pump with cold engine, if in fact you are reporting that the pump was running with IGNITION OFF and cold engine.

Although I have a theory as to what happened generally, and why, I do NOT have any real insight as to what specific components are damaged or need to be "RESET" in some way. Someone with more specific knowledge of how the MSV80 DME works could probably offer more definitive suggestions, but here are my SWAGs:

1) I would disconnect the battery for 12 to 24 hours (just disconnect the Negative Cable from the Negative Battery Post, leaving the Positive Cable as is). This is intended to allow the DME to effectively "reboot" when the Negative Cable is reconnected.

2) During the time the Cable is disconnected, make sure the battery is properly-charged (~ 12.5V) and if NOT, apply a battery charger directly to the Postive Battery Cable/ post and the Negative Battery Post (Negative Cable still disconnected). This is NOT applying any voltage or current to the DME if properly done.

3) If you don't have a Scan Tool to read codes, beg, borrow or buy a simple, generic Scan Tool, capable of reading Fault Codes and Freeze Frame Data related to those codes, such as this $35 tool from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLin...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Please let us know if "Reboot" worked and what Codes you have,
George

[hassmaschine]

Disconnecting the battery will NOT reset the DME. Errors and adaptations are stored in permanent memory. That will literally do nothing.

You need to read codes or we are just guessing.

[zipperhead]

George thanks for your reply. I do have a scan tool. I connected it yesterday and there were no stored codes or pending codes or anything else it was all clear. Also the vehicle doesnt have headlight washers. That was initially my first thought. It is odd that all of the liquid was on the bumper and the ground under the front of the bumper. When I was doing the gasket replacement I pulled the cap off the coolant reservoir and I think I it may have been spraying out. I'm not sure cause I never saw it until after I had the trunk open. I'll disconnect the battery as you suggested overnight and check it tomorrow I suppose. Any other thoughts are welcomed.

[ctuna]

4x4 error is normal every time you disconnect the battery.
It will go away once you turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and
right. Disconnecting the battery does reset some stuff but using battery back up is not recommended or practical on these cars. Mostly people notice
the car will shift different for awhile if they have an automatic as it
relearns your driving habits. I would make sure you have full battery charge
every time you work on your car for an extended amount of time .

There is a coolant purge procedure that should be run if you have
done something with the coolant system.

what kind of scanner do you have . There are only some scanners
that will do BMW shadow codes and read things like the IBS.

Put a full slow charge on your battery If the resting voltage is under 12.4

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by zipperhead

...I do have a scan tool. I connected it yesterday and there were no stored codes or pending codes or anything else it was all clear...

QUESTIONS:
1) Can your Scan Tool read BMW-specific codes?
2) WHAT Modules can it connect to -- just DME? CAS? JBE? FRM? KOMBI?
3) Is your car a 328xi, or xDrive/ AWD?

DME Memory:
As others have noted, disconnecting the Battery Negative Terminal will NOT delete Fault Codes saved in Module Memory, as that, along with programming, is saved in Flash Memory or NON-volatile memory, and NOT lost or erased when the battery is disconnected. That's like the difference between what is stored on your personal computer's Hard Drive (NON-volatile) and what is stored in "working memory" or RAM, which IS lost if there is a power failure or shutdown, without saving to Hard Disk.

Although I do NOT know how many different types of memory are used in the DME or other modules, and how long power needs to be disconnected to clear "working memory", reports on this Forum & elsewhere suggest that power fluctuation CAN scramble working memory, and shutdown & restart, or even battery disconnection for some time (unclear if 10 minutes, an hour, 12 hours, etc.) CAN allow normal function to return in certain instances. That suggests to me that there ARE occasions when volatile memory gets "corrupted" and a "Reboot" is needed.

Once again, I am NOT an expert in computer design, DME design, or anything related to either, and that is my "simple concept" from reading reports others have posted on forums.

Crank but No Start:
If your Starter Cranks the engine, but the engine does NOT fire or even sputter, that suggests that one or more of the following is occurring:

1) No fuel pump activation to develop fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The Fuel Pump is controlled by the EKP Module (check it's fault memory) which is in turn controlled by the DME.

2) No Fuel Injector Pulse (which is provided by the DME) so even if you have fuel pump delivering fuel to rail at proper pressure, none enters the intake manifold/ cylinders during Starter cranking.

3) No Ignition during cranking, which is also controlled & timed by the DME.

So IF you actually have NO Fault Codes saved in the DME (including BMW-specific fault codes a generic P-code reader can't read), then if you can do some electrical testing with a simple DMM (Digital Multimeter), you MAY find something as simple as a blown fuse, or other electrical fault in power supply to the DME or its systems.

Initial Tests & Examinations:

1. DME Power Supply:

I would suggest checking visually, and electrically testing, Fuses F4 (10A) & F37 (30A) which are involved in Activating the DME Relay (K6300) and transmitting power from that Relay, as shown in the following TIS circuit diagram for DME Power Supply, and the two F4 & F37 fuse circuits:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-fault/vSeDDOT
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/ijqXzgf
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/vEmrLZy

Here is the TIS Fuse Chart showing "Installation Location" of F4 & F37 on JB Fuse Panel:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnYh5CO3E

When testing F37, make sure there is power to ONE of the two sockets for the spades of that fuse, with ignition ON. There SHOULD be power from the K6300 DME Relay to that fuse socket.

The DME Relay supplies power to other fuses, such as F39 which powers the Injectors & Coils as per this TIS F39 circuit diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...9-fuse/vbXvlMR

Rather than fearing the worst -- that something got "fried" in the DME, I would suggest taking the time to identify and test the systems that provide power to the DME, and that the DME controls, using whatever equipment is available to you. Suggested "Initial Tests" are described above.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[zipperhead]

Thanks for the info guys. I think that the fuel pump and injectors are PROBABLY working as I smelled fuel while I was cranking. My scan tool is a middle of the road model CenTech from Harbor Freight...it was about $75.00. I'm not sure if it does BMW specific codes or not. I'm gonna go try a couple things that you guys suggested and see what happens. Will keep you posted.

Thanks - Mark

[zipperhead]

When I went down to start with the fuses, I jumped in the drivers seat and for the hell of it decided to try and start it. It cranked for about 5 seconds and it actually did a little sputter for about 2 seconds and then went back to just cranking. Just thought I should mention that. It was brief, but did happen.

Ok so I just removed the glove box to access my fuse panel. I checked the voltage at F37 with the ignition on. I read next to nothing on either side of the fuse connector. Oddly the voltage would fluctuate when I put my meter on. It would go from about 5.4 volts down to nothing in a matter of a few seconds, almost like a capacitor discharging. That was on the left terminal for fuse F37. On the right terminal I had similar response but at a much lower voltage. From about 1.2V down to nothing in about 2 seconds. When I pulled the key out the left terminal still had a small voltage of about .045 on it, nothing really to speak of.

Unless you have any other thoughts, I guess my next move is to access K6300 and see if it took a hit? I'm gonna start tearing into it in a couple minutes.

Mark

[zipperhead]

So I've been at it for the last few hours here and I'm at the end of my rope.

After testing with the ignition on there is no voltage to speak of at either F37 or F4. So I opened up the box where the DME is and I was searching for K6300. It's not there. I know it should be there, but it's not. I have a Bentley svc manual but the photos are of 2007 models not 2011. After watching a couple YouTube videos, I see that it should be in the 3rd bay back in the white box 2nd relay in from the left. The only relay that's in there is all the way over on the right side. Nothing at all on the left except empty space. The fuse holder should also be in that bay but it's upside down and closer to the front. Apparently someone was in this box before me. Anyway relays K6300 and K6327 are not in this box. Is there any other place they could be? Any help is appreciated.

Mark.

[nsjames]

goto newtis
put in your vin
navigate to Electrical Components / Connectors
and then to the plug in connectors section.
find x6300 and it should have a location image.

wild speculation, but I think you did something that is taking down the bsd line and that's why the waterpump runs full speed as soon as the ignition is on. Since you had crazy battery terminal things going on I would highly suspect the alternator or something related.
but again, wild speculation without a code reader.

a proper code scanner will save you a ton of headaches in figuring out what's not talking to the rest of the car.

[zipperhead]

According to Newtis the K6300 relay is in the fuse block in the upper right hand corner. However when I look there all I see are some slots. Is the relay behind these slots on the back of the fuse panel?

[ctuna]

If you do not have a BMW capable scanner you are troubleshooting
half blind.

Bimmergeeks.net cable and Inpa/Ista D diagnostics are recommended.

[PhaseP]

OP, I would try to first ensure having a good charged battery.

Then try to double check and go over everything that you have done to the car, because it was working before.

After shutting off the truck with the jumper cables still connected, the trunk of the 328 then in fact opened with the keyfob. When I walked around the front of the vehicle I noticed that there was what I though was windshield washer fluid all over the front bumper. I later came to find out that it was actually coolant.

The coolant on the front must have came somewhere. You didn't mention in what state your OFHG job when you tried to open the trunk with other car power.
Did you have the OFH or some coolant hose in that area disconnected? Was the OFH not removed but some bolts were removed a bit lifted off?

There is possibility the coolant pump turned on when you turned on the car too, not sure but a guess that DME may have it turned on as initial diagnostic. And if you had a hose or OFH partially opened, this would have sprayed coolant out there.

Now it if was the OFH open you may have sent coolant into the oil passages too. I don't think this would have caused no start, but if there was chance of this happening you would be better off doing an oil change immediately after you figure out your no start problem.

The other thing you need to do after your no start problem is resolved, which doesn't sound like you had done already, you need to purge air from the coolant system and top it off as ctuna already mentioned in one of the posts above. Otherwise engine will overheating.

Now one other thing that comes to my mind, did you happen to remove the intake manifold bolts and nuts to pull it out a bit to access that third OFH bolt under the intake manifold? If you did touch the intake manifold, you should double check it is seated well and no air is leaking where it is mounted on the engine head. An air leak there if big enough will cause hard or no start. Not very likely to happen but good to check.

Did you remove any sensor connectors doing the job? If so reconnected and seated well?

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by nsjames

wild speculation, but I think you did something that is taking down the bsd line and that's why the waterpump runs full speed as soon as the ignition is on..

That is a good thought. The IBS is on BSD line too. OP you may try disconnecting the BSD line on IBS and then try to start. IBS is the thing that goes on the negative battery post. It should be handled gently.

[zipperhead]

I was pretty miffed as to where the coolant came from....although the more I'm thinking about it, it actually could have been washer fluid...they're both blue so I'm not 100% sure that it was coolant...however that said, I did have the cap off the reservoir but there was no fluid in the engine bay....just all over the bumper and the ground under it, but NOT the headlights...there are no headlight washers....I was only assuming that it was coolant based on my previous post after I saw the coolant running out of the overflow yesterday before I disconnected the battery and it stopped. Again I assumed that the water pump was running because when I pulled the battery lead, the coolant flow stopped and I really couldn't think of anything else that would make it flow. It was just a slow steady stream like it was pissing. Obviously way too many assumptions. I never actually saw anything going on with coolant and/or washer fluid. I only noticed it all over the bumper and the ground AFTER I got the trunk to open via my truck battery.
The only sensor I disconnected was on the oil filter housing and I reconnected that after the gasket replacement.
I didn't touch the manifold bolts....only the alternator and oil filter housing. All bolts were replaced with new ones.
Based on my multimeter troubleshooting I think that, whether or not I have a BMW scan tool, I need to physically check the K6300 relay. If I can find it.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by zipperhead

According to Newtis the K6300 relay is in the fuse block in the upper right hand corner. However when I look there all I see are some slots. Is the relay behind these slots on the back of the fuse panel?

The short answer is I would test for Voltage from F4 to the DME 1st, and then for Ground to the DME Relay electromagnet 2nd, before dismantling things to get to the relay itself.

The K6300 DME Relay WAS in the E-box on the 2006 models. However, on later models including yours, it is as you show (ABOVE the big black IO1068 Relay) and I presume SOLDERED to the board on the firewall side. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the JB (Junction Box) on 2008 & Later models:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...box/1VnXpW4emV

As you can see, the DME Relay (K6300) is approximately in the CENTER of that JB diagram, and when the relay contacts are CLOSED, Battery Power from Terminal 30 (which gets its power from the 250Amp F101 fusible link at the Battery) flows through the DME Relay to Terminal 87, which in turn powers F11, F16, F17, F37, F38 & F39.

HOWEVER, BEFORE you test that Relay, you stated that there was NO Voltage at F4. THAT is what you want to investigate, as F4 is the "Bootstrap" by which the DME "powers itself up."

Let's look back at the DME Power Supply circuit:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-fault/vSeDDOT

F4 gets UNSWITCHED Battery Power (note the "30" above the fuse -- that stands for Terminal 30 which is battery power). The JB circuit shows the same thing. That fuse must be giving voltage/current to the DME control circuit so it can send a ground signal to the electromagnet coil of K6300 (DME Relay) to close the DME Relay contacts, which powers "the rest" of the DME functions.

My guess would be that either (1) that fuse F4 is bad, OR (2) some wiring/connector fault is preventing current from flowing from Pin #4 of Connector X11001 at the JB via the Red/Black wire to Connector X6011 in the E-box, and from there to Pin #1 of Connector 60003 of the DME, also in the E-box. The Installation Location of Connector X6011 and all 7 of the DME Connectors follow:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/SL92ADs
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnZAHHjcD

Of course it is POSSIBLE that there is a fault in the DME which prevents the ground signal being sent from Pin #13 of Connector X60005 to the DME Relay electromagnet coil, Pin #1 of Connector X11010 at the JB. Here are the Installation Location & Connector View of X11010, on the fuse panel side of the JB (other connectors are on the firewall side). Note that the Connector View is the mirror image of the JB itself where the pins/sockets are numbered 1-6 & 7-10, Left to Right, Top to Bottom:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/RKy9OeU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTJCkOXS

Please let us know what you find,
George

[zipperhead]

I dont believe F4 is bad. When I checked voltages on the fuse block, I removed the fuses and checked the sockets directly. Both F4 and F37 fuses were good. As far as a wiring/connector fault, this car was running fine up to this point. As I did say in an earlier post today, I did get a slight sputter at one point for a couple seconds, so I've had that in the back of my mind too. I'm gonna have to get the meter out again tomorrow and check some of your suggestions. Hopefully something will show up.

[zipperhead]

So here's an update.

I guess I should have checked my meter as it was NOT functioning correctly. I tried another meter this a.m. and found that I DO have voltage on F4. However when I insert the key and push the button to bring up the ignition, there is NO voltage at F37. So back to my troubleshooting from there. Just wanted to let you know what an idiot I am.

[zipperhead]

One update to note - Climate controls do NOT work with the ignition turned on.
Not sure if that has any bearing on the situation.

Here's the current rundown.
Power on F4
No Power on F37
No Climate control with ignition on
Code reader was able to pull a U01001 code Lost communication with ECM/PCM
Disconnected IBS - still would not start
Disconnected MAF Sensor - still would not start

Could the CAS Relay have any bearing on this?

Mark

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by zipperhead

...Here's the current rundown.
Power on F4
No Power on F37
No Climate control with ignition on
Code reader was able to pull a U01001 code Lost communication with ECM/PCM
Disconnected IBS - still would not start
Disconnected MAF Sensor - still would not start

Could the CAS Relay have any bearing on this?
Mark

Hi Mark,

My suggestions: 1st do some tests in the E-box:

1) Check to see if F4 power is being Received by the DME at Pin #1, Red wire, of Connector X60003. Backprobe that Pin which should be Battery Voltage, unswitched.

2) If your multimeter shows NO voltage at Pin #1, then identify and examine the pins/sockets of Connector X6011 through which F4 battery power has to pass to get to the DME, pin #10. The wire coming from the fuse F4 to Pin #10 of X6011 is Red/Black, and the wire going to the DME is Red. Be on the lookout for any sign of heat from short or overvoltage anywhere in that connector.

3) While you are checking Connector X6011, Note that the Ground signal, from the DME to the DME Relay coil, passes through Pin #5 of that same Connector X6011. Also Note that you can simply apply a ground jumper to the Red/Gray wire that goes to the DME Relay coil to activate/test the relay. It is possible that the Jump with Truck motor running & Battery disconnected might have somehow burned out that coil. You can also test there to see if the DME is creating a ground signal with ignition on in an attempt to activate the DME Relay.

Here is the "Connector View" of that X6011 Connector:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/Cjob60dQ

I presume that your interior lights come on when entering the car, radio works when inserting Remote Key in Insert Compartment (or if CA, works as normal), and Instrument Cluster lights as normal when START is pressed (Ignition ON)? Check the Roof Control Panel for interior/reading lights.

Here is the Junction Box circuit for your car which allows you to trace the power supply to each fuse, either Battery Power, or switched via a relay, but it's tedious to try to trace each circuit that way, and I would suggest beginning with tests above, and we can take it from there.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...box/1VnXpW4emV

BTW, here is the F77 circuit, F77 powers the A/C Control Panel & IHKA Module, along with Glovebox light & Trunk light:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...7-fuse/ildMSEE

George

[zipperhead]

Status update -
Power at F4
Power at F37 with ignition on
Power at F77 but still no climate controls or trunk light.
With the meter on F37 and the ignition on, there's power. When the ignition is shut off and meter still on F37, I can hear a relay click after about 5 seconds and then the voltage on F37 drops to 0. I'm assuming that the relay that I hear is K6300 and maybe it's working.

As I had stated previously this car was running FINE before I started working on it. So the likelihood of a bad wire or connector I think is pretty slim. I really think I did something a little deeper. When I crank it now, it seems a little more like it may wanna start, but still nothing.

At this point I think I'm gonna have it towed to a local BMW guy here in town unless anyone has any other thoughts.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by zipperhead

Status update -
Power at F4
Power at F37 with ignition on
Power at F77 but still no climate controls or trunk light.
With the meter on F37 and the ignition on, there's power. When the ignition is shut off and meter still on F37, I can hear a relay click after about 5 seconds and then the voltage on F37 drops to 0.

Do you know WHAT changed to get K6300 (DME Relay) to power F37? Unless you have to apply a ground jumper to the DME Relay Coil, then the DME is turning itself on when START button is pressed to turn on ignition. I would check that AGAIN one more time, and then move on to the other things suggested in Post #6 above, beginning with checking for voltage at Coil and Injector wires (Orange) per this excerpt from Post #6:

The DME Relay supplies power to other fuses, such as F39 which powers the Injectors & Coils as per this TIS F39 circuit diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...9-fuse/vbXvlMR

Other followup tests were suggested in Post #16:

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the JB (Junction Box) on 2008 & Later models:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...box/1VnXpW4emV

As you can see, the DME Relay (K6300) is approximately in the CENTER of that JB diagram, and when the relay contacts are CLOSED, Battery Power from Terminal 30 (which gets its power from the 250Amp F101 fusible link at the Battery) flows through the DME Relay to Terminal 87, which in turn powers F11, F16, F17, F37, F38 & F39.

I know it's tedious, particularly if you're NOT used to reading Electrical Circuit Diagrams, but the fact is that MOST guys working in shops are better trained in "R&R" (Remove & Replace) than reading Electrical Circuits. As you observed, the car was fine until the issue with the jumpstart with battery cable disconnected. You either have an electrical issue in fuses, wiring & connectors, or an issue in a Control Module such as the DME. Most shops can't/won't test something like this to determine where in the circuit the wheels come off and what is NOT working, let along WHY. They will just throw a new DME at it (NOT cheap) or charge you for hours of labor in diagnostics, which MAY in the end suggest that the DME IS bad.

If you want to try for another day/evening or two, I'm willing to try to help, but whatever your choice, we need to understand what happened, whether tested properly earlier/NOW or NOT and WHY the DME Relay is NOW powering F37 where it was NOT before. Before you report back on that:
1) check for sound of fuel pump running (under rear seat behind driver);
2) check for fault codes in DME or EKP (Fuel Pump Module) if your Scan Tool can connect to the EKP;
3) Then let us know about what if anything you can identify that caused the DME Relay to Activate & power the DME.

Remember if you didn't have power to the DME BEFORE, but do NOW, there may be fault codes saved now which you could NOT read before. In an early post you stated: "I do have a scan tool. I connected it yesterday and there were no stored codes or pending codes or anything else it was all clear." I'm NOT quite sure what that means. Generally if you tried to connect to an "unpowered" DME, you would NOT be able to, and any query for Fault Codes would result in some type of error message. If you can identify what Scan Tool you have available and what you see when you try to connect NOW, that would be helpful.

If all the electrical stuff gets too tedious, you can always revert to the "Old-school" approach:
1) Check for Fuel Delivery or Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail & Pump operation;
2) Check for Fuel Injector Click during Starter Cranking (Mechanic's stethoscope against injector body);
3) Check for coil operation by removing the coil from one of the plugs attaching it to a spare plug, or remove a plug from the engine, ground the plug base, and watch for spark on the plug as the Starter is cranked (do NOT touch the plug or coil during this test -- VERY high voltage).

George