[JunkyardDogg]

So I tried doing an oil change but had problems getting both jacks under the car. First thing I did was drive up on 2 wooden blocks, then slid the low profile floor jack and began lifting at the center front jack point. Do you need some type of pad or block between the jack and metal? I jacked it up as much as I could, and the driver side I was able to put a jack, but it didnt get high enough on the passenger side. So I slid the jack under the passenger side jack to lift it as a backup and did the oil change as fast as I could. Now my driver side jack point, the plastic rectangle, is damaged. How do you put it on jacks, do you use anything else?

This is the jack I used. Don't think its strong enough, as when I started jacking it high, it was creaking a lot and swaying to one side like it was gonna collapse.
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ack-64545.html




I'm gonna return this jack and get a 3 ton one. Also thinking of maybe getting a rubber hockey puck for the center jackpoint. Not sure about the side jacks though.

[porsche959]

It’s fine. That bent point is just a cover for where you jack up the subframe. It tends to bend a lot.

[JunkyardDogg]

Originally Posted by porsche959

It’s fine. That bent point is just a cover for where you jack up the subframe. It tends to bend a lot.

you mean the center jack point? Well if its bent then when you jack it up it might not be level

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

...How do you put it on jacks, do you use anything else?

For starters, you don't use jack stands designed in 1936 for solid axle vehicles. And that jack is too weak, 1.5 tons = 3000 lbs, which in Harbor Freight speak means only 1500, "safely".

[relative4]

14" is not enough lift. I use a floor jack with a 21" lift height.
Use hockey pucks between the jackstands and the plastic lift points. Works great. You do need to get the car a little extra high to fit the pucks; I use all of my jack's 21".

[tlow98]

The jack is fine. I’ve been using that same one for a decade. I treat as I would any other jack - use back up safety measures. Put a rim/tire under the car somewhere strategic.

The center point is naturally tippy because the front half of the car is balanced on either side until you get it down into the jack stands. You can also use wood between the jack stands and the jack supports. Now, this isn’t great as introduces another failure point, but it’s not the worst thing to do either.

Just take one of your wheels off and put it under a structural end.

[Efthreeoh]

There at least 100 threads on how to lift the E9X chassis. Search the 3 main subforums: General E9X; the DIY; or Maintenance, and search on ESCO. Find the posts that I've made. I explain in several of them on what tools to use and how to properly use them.

You used the wrong floor jack, the wrong stands, and the wrong technique.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Just rotate the stands 90 degrees and the plastic bloc should fit perfectly into both grooves of the V if it's not chipped away completely. That's what I always do.

For the jack I don't really see the problem, yes it's not high rated enough for the whole car but pretty sure it's enough if you are only jacking the front axle.

[JunkyardDogg]

Thanks guys, im gonna return this one and get the 3 ton low profile jack which reaches 20 inches and pick up a rubber pad to lift the center. For the jack stands, ill use the jack pad adapters and see how that works. Or maybe the jack stand fits into the plastic square ill take a look.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Mine's bent on one side too. Hasn't been an issue lifting.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Thanks guys, im gonna return this one and get the 3 ton low profile jack which reaches 20 inches and pick up a rubber pad to lift the center. For the jack stands, ill use the jack pad adapters and see how that works. Or maybe the jack stand fits into the plastic square ill take a look.

The jack pad adapters can easily slip off of those jack stands. Would advise against it. You should really consider the Esco stands already mentioned. A little pricy for a stand, but they're much safer.

Another option I considered (since I already own 6 of the old school jack stands) is to cut the "cup" and make it just a rectangular nub that could fit inside the jack pads.

[relative4]

Or just use hockey pucks. Nothing short of a lift works better.

[Efthreeoh]

I'm not sure why a few people are concerned about the jack point being "bent". This is what is behind the little metal rectangle:

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Thanks guys, im gonna return this one and get the 3 ton low profile jack which reaches 20 inches and pick up a rubber pad to lift the center. For the jack stands, ill use the jack pad adapters and see how that works. Or maybe the jack stand fits into the plastic square ill take a look.

If you intend on DIYing your car or another BMW for years to come, then I recommend an Omega Blackhawk 29023 low profile floor jack and 4 ea. ESCO 10498 jack stands. For a little over $500 investment you have the proper lifting tools to raise and support your BMW for the next 20 years.

Using axle stands and adapters is unsafe. Get flat-top jack stands and avoid the complication of using adapters

My 2 cents.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

So I tried doing an oil change but had problems getting both jacks under the car. First thing I did was drive up on 2 wooden blocks, then slid the low profile floor jack and began lifting at the center front jack point. Do you need some type of pad or block between the jack and metal? I jacked it up as much as I could, and the driver side I was able to put a jack, but it didnt get high enough on the passenger side. So I slid the jack under the passenger side jack to lift it as a backup and did the oil change as fast as I could. Now my driver side jack point, the plastic rectangle, is damaged. How do you put it on jacks, do you use anything else?

This is the jack I used. Don't think its strong enough, as when I started jacking it high, it was creaking a lot and swaying to one side like it was gonna collapse.
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ack-64545.html

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I'm gonna return this jack and get a 3 ton one. Also thinking of maybe getting a rubber hockey puck for the center jackpoint. Not sure about the side jacks though.

I'd just make sure you get a Jack with a wide plate & a rubber backing in the plate. 3 ton jack stands & a 3 ton jack is ALWAYS advisable.

Black Friday / Cyber Monday

Consider a quick jack 5000


https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5%2...100460313.html

[clegg]

I use the 67" XT Race Ramps for oil changes. They are very secure and no need to jack anything.

[JunkyardDogg]

Yeah I’m on a budget at the moment and not sure how long I plan on keeping the car. That speed jack is sick but too expensive.

Those race ramps are dope , but why not rhino ramps for fraction of the price? And why doesn’t everyone get the rhino ramps? 16000 lb capacity for $50. Seems like a no brainer.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Yeah I’m on a budget at the moment and not sure how long I plan on keeping the car. That speed jack is sick but too expensive.

Those race ramps are dope , but why not rhino ramps for fraction of the price? And why doesn’t everyone get the rhino ramps? 16000 lb capacity for $50. Seems like a no brainer.

If you are on a budget the regular V stands are perfectly fine if rotated the other way... everyone is making a big deal about getting the Esco stands with an actual adapter. Yes ok I am not going to say they are not safe, probably more safe but at this point it's more like 99.999999% of safety compared to 99.999998% with regular V stands placed sideways. The V is a great adapter to fit the short edges of the rectangle into it.

I've had my car on all fours with it rotated sideways and it's perfectly fine and extremely stable. Plus I always add 2 other stands without being under load under rear or front sub frame depending where I'm working on just as secondary backup. My jacking equipment probably only costed like 250$ in USD currency with a few sales with some low profile princess auto (canadian harbor freight) ramps used to reach the front middle jack point since I'm lowered.

I don't even user jack adapters even when lifting the side of the car on one point. A normal jack flat cup with a rubber pad is fine. As long as the edges of the circle are not higher than the actual middle it won't damage anything a part from the adapter which is a cheap piece to replace.

And yeah the Quickjack is a great tool but for it's price not worth it.

My 2 cents and never had a lifting accident with the 2 years I've been working on my BMW yet.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

I've been using regular old double-locking jack stands for gosh about 10 years now on BMWs. I've always used them like OP does. It does deform the cup a little over time, but they're replaceable. They make neat little adapters online that fit into standard jack stands if you want to try those.

[clegg]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Yeah I’m on a budget at the moment and not sure how long I plan on keeping the car. That speed jack is sick but too expensive.

Those race ramps are dope , but why not rhino ramps for fraction of the price? And why doesn’t everyone get the rhino ramps? 16000 lb capacity for $50. Seems like a no brainer.

I originally got the race ramps for my C7 Corvette because they have a lower initial incline and the aft section is removable for side access. The rhino ramps will get your car in the air and people use them successfully.

I tried the rhinos but the RR's really are worth it, although they take up a lot of storage space.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Yeah I’m on a budget at the moment and not sure how long I plan on keeping the car. That speed jack is sick but too expensive.

Those race ramps are dope , but why not rhino ramps for fraction of the price? And why doesn’t everyone get the rhino ramps? 16000 lb capacity for $50. Seems like a no brainer.

had them, they are shit.

bottoms cracked out the instant they were not on a perfectly level concrete surface, as the reinforcement ribs are far to skinny.

the HF daytona LP 3 ton is a steal, and a nice jack. Currently on sale for like a hundred dollars right now at HF.

but I've used that same 1.5 ton to lift the car, it's my travel jack.

get better stands.

[JunkyardDogg]

I ended up getting the esco jack stands and a 3 ton pittsburgh low profile jack. Should be all set now.