[jhah135]

Hello ladies and gents,

Looking for a little help diagnosing my 2009 E90 328 xdrive with just over 100K. I don't know when it stopped working but my rear defroster doesn't melt snow or get rid of fog and haven't noticed anything else not functioning correctly. It did work last winter though.

Within the last couple thousand miles I replaced the original battery (because of rough/longer starts) with the same type from Advance Auto and registered it myself. I checked the two fuses (49/79 I believe) and they looked fine and not broken. When I press the defrost button, the light comes on and I can hear the switch engaging from the relay.

Again, everything else seems to be working correctly so not sure what could be the issue. Any advice is appreciated!

[relative4]

Unplug the IBS.

[jhah135]

Originally Posted by relative4

Unplug the IBS.

that's not a diagnosis

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jhah135

...2009 E90 328 xdrive...my rear defroster doesn't melt snow or get rid of fog and haven't noticed anything else not functioning correctly. It did work last winter though.

I have never had to examine or test the Rear Window Defogger system in mine, so I will simply provide the link to TIS circuit diagram for your 2009 328xi, and suggest how I would test the system. I will state at the outset that I do NOT understand the two "Lockout" circuits (Z1 & Z2) or what their function is (other than perhaps to add something else to "go wrong" ;-). Perhaps they function to reduce radio interference with antennae? Here are circuit & "Installation Location" for components on either side of rear glass:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...window/haeyxn6
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RjOLdgF
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/Rl0xx8c

Here is TIS procedure for removing C-pillar trim panel & components beneath:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...e-trap/FbGyLSQ
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...e-trap/FULB5UM

Tests/ "DIAGNOSIS":

1) Check fuse F47, particularly since you listed two other fuses that don't appear applicable.
2) THEN, remove Right C-pillar trim panel & test for 12V+ at Black wire, Pin #1, Connector X18264 at Z1.
3) Test for 12V+ at Pin#1 of Connector X01058 on the other side of Z1.
4) Similarly, test for continuity to ground on either side of Z2 after removal of Left C-pillar trim panel.
5) Finally, test for resistance across the heating element of the rear window, between the two window element wires that connect to Z1 & Z2.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[relative4]

Originally Posted by jhah135

that's not a diagnosis

It's a solution. You're welcome.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by relative4

It's a solution. You're welcome.

It's NOT a solution to OP's issue unless you can explain HOW the Rear Window Defogger is related to the IBS or BSD Interface.

Thank you,
George

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by relative4

It's a solution. You're welcome.

It's a band-aid at best.

[relative4]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

It's NOT a solution to OP's issue unless you can explain HOW the Rear Window Defogger is related to the IBS or BSD Interface.

Thank you,
George

Apparently you don't know what a solution is. If he unplugs the IBS, the defroster will work. Problem solved.

[relative4]

Originally Posted by desertman123

It's a band-aid at best.

Yep. Band-aids help stop bleeding, help prevent infection, protect painful spots, and reduce the chance of reopening wounds. Problems solved.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by relative4

...If he unplugs the IBS, the defroster will work. Problem solved. Are you gonna eat that?

NO, not hungry -- Are YOU gonna explain that?
HOW does unplugging the IBS affect the Rear Window Defogger?

George

[relative4]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

NO, not hungry -- Are YOU gonna explain that?
HOW does unplugging the IBS affect the Rear Window Defogger?

George

George, we had this discussion at length 2 years ago. If you want to know, go dig it up.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by relative4

George, we had this discussion at length 2 years ago. If you want to know, go dig it up.

lmao

[jhah135]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I have never had to examine or test the Rear Window Defogger system in mine, so I will simply provide the link to TIS circuit diagram for your 2009 328xi, and suggest how I would test the system. I will state at the outset that I do NOT understand the two "Lockout" circuits (Z1 & Z2) or what their function is (other than perhaps to add something else to "go wrong" ;-). Perhaps they function to reduce radio interference with antennae? Here are circuit & "Installation Location" for components on either side of rear glass:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...window/haeyxn6
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RjOLdgF
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/Rl0xx8c

Here is TIS procedure for removing C-pillar trim panel & components beneath:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...e-trap/FbGyLSQ
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...e-trap/FULB5UM

Tests/ "DIAGNOSIS":

1) Check fuse F47, particularly since you listed two other fuses that don't appear applicable.
2) THEN, remove Right C-pillar trim panel & test for 12V+ at Black wire, Pin #1, Connector X18264 at Z1.
3) Test for 12V+ at Pin#1 of Connector X01058 on the other side of Z1.
4) Similarly, test for continuity to ground on either side of Z2 after removal of Left C-pillar trim panel.
5) Finally, test for resistance across the heating element of the rear window, between the two window element wires that connect to Z1 & Z2.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Thanks for the detailed info, George! I'll have to try this once it gets warmer in NE.

My fuse card actually notes fuses 47 and 79. I was going by memory when I initially posted since I didn't have this card handy. Both do look good but maybe I'll change out 47. It seems that one isn't shared by other functions.

[jhah135]

Thanks for the entertainment, guys !

I know the IBS can be unplugged but really looking to SOLVE the issue and not just mask it. The two fuses don't look blown and I don't know why there would be a wiring issue and I hope a mouse didn't chew a wire somewhere. I'll try George's advice when it gets warmer and post back. I'll also try just switching out fuse 47 (maybe it broke where it's not visible ).

Regardless, any advice is appreciated!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jhah135

...I'll have to try this once it gets warmer in NE. [BUT THEN you won't need to Rear Window Defrost ] My fuse card actually notes fuses 47 and 79. I was going by memory when I initially posted since I didn't have this card handy. Both do look good but maybe I'll change out 47. It seems that one isn't shared by other functions.

The best way I know to determine where the electrical fault is in your Rear Window Defogger system is to start at the front, at Fuse Socket #47, and test for 12V+ voltage using a DMM (Digital Multimeter). Then test along the current path per the TIS Schematic, if required:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...window/haeyxn6

I did NOT discuss the RELAY, K13, which is switched by the On/Off button on the Climate Control Panel, but if that relay is NOT operating, there will be NO voltage at the fuse socket #47 with ignition on & Button lighted.

Unfortunately I do NOT find anything in either Bentley or TIS that indicates WHERE that Relay K13 is LOCATED on E9x built 3/2007 & Later, such as yours & mine. For builds BEFORE 3/2007, K13 is located on the lower left of the Fuse Panel (JB), just below the front wiper relays. There is NO RELAY mounted externally in that position on my 3/14/2007 build E91. Here is a link to the TIS K13 "Installation Location" -- for <3/2007 models. My hunch is that relay is soldered to the JB circuit board (inside the JB case) on E9x built AFTER 3/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RLRb8pe

ANYONE (particularly those previously posting to this thread ;-) who KNOWS where K13 is located on E9x built 3/2007 & Later?

FWIW, Bentley Fuse Chart for models built AFTER 8/2007 (2008 & Later Models), shows F47 powering the Rear Window Defogger, and F79 as "Wiper Control." Bentley has a better fuse chart than the tri-fold which is found on the glove box panel, and I will attach 2 jpg pages to the next post so as NOT to mess up the margins of this post, along with photo of my 3/14/2007 JB layout. People "playing along at home" should realize that the LAYOUT of the JB fuse panel changed significantly effective 3/1/2007 build date, and the later 2007 models built BETWEEN 3/1/2007 & 8/2007 had the NEW layout which was continued in the 2008 & Later Models.

HOWEVER, the Late 2007 models had a different (and conFUSE-ing ;-) numbering system. That numbering system was CHANGED effective 9/1/2007 for 2008 & later models. Moral to the story, make SURE you are referring to the CORRECT Fuse Chart, and keep those THREE different iterations in mind. You will see TIS uses the following THREE designations:
(1) "-2007/02" -- for 2006 & Early 2007 Models;
(2) "2007/03 - 2007/08" -- for LATE 2007 Models;
(3) "2007/09+" -- for 2008 & LATER Models;

There were OTHER electrical system changes at other dates, but the above appear to be the change dates for JB Configuration/Layout & Fuse Numbering Convention changes.

Please let us know what you find. I promise NOT to hi-jack your thread with (1) Power Management & "Electric Load Reduction -- Engine Running" discussions (see p.34 of "BMW Voltage Supply & Bus Systems" Training Manual) and/or (2) Battery "Registration", Type & Capacity Coding, Histogram Reset discussions. Suffice it to say that there appears to be a Web Legend that BMW's have magical, undocumented powers with electricity, particularly as it relates to the Battery, Power Management, and the IBS. IF you replaced old battery with NEW Battery of (A) Same Type (FLA vs. AGM), and (B) Same Capacity (Ah or RC), then NO "Registration, Coding, Reset", NOR Incense Burning, Exorcism, or Incantations of ANY Nature, are required.

George

[gbalthrop]

Here are Bentley Fuse Charts (2 pages) for 2008 & Later E9x models;
These are found at Bentley Sections ECL-23 & ECL-24; pdf pp.936 & 937;

Also attached is photo of my 3/14/2007 build E91 JB Fuse Panel, showing NO external K13 below the Green Wiper Relays:

George

[relative4]

Nothing is wrong with the defogger. Neilj35 has explained the problem thoroughly. Ignoring him and hunting snipe is a stupid waste of time.

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The best way I know to determine where the electrical fault is in your Rear Window Defogger system is to start at the front, at Fuse Socket #47, and test for 12V+ voltage using a DMM (Digital Multimeter). Then test along the current path per the TIS Schematic, if required:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...window/haeyxn6

I did NOT discuss the RELAY, K13, which is switched by the On/Off button on the Climate Control Panel, but if that relay is NOT operating, there will be NO voltage at the fuse socket #47 with ignition on & Button lighted.

Unfortunately I do NOT find anything in either Bentley or TIS that indicates WHERE that Relay K13 is LOCATED on E9x built 3/2007 & Later, such as yours & mine. For builds BEFORE 3/2007, K13 is located on the lower left of the Fuse Panel (JB), just below the front wiper relays. There is NO RELAY mounted externally in that position on my 3/14/2007 build E91. Here is a link to the TIS K13 "Installation Location" -- for <3/2007 models. My hunch is that relay is soldered to the JB circuit board (inside the JB case) on E9x built AFTER 3/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RLRb8pe

ANYONE (particularly those previously posting to this thread ;-) who KNOWS where K13 is located on E9x built 3/2007 & Later?

FWIW, Bentley Fuse Chart for models built AFTER 8/2007 (2008 & Later Models), shows F47 powering the Rear Window Defogger, and F79 as "Wiper Control." Bentley has a better fuse chart than the tri-fold which is found on the glove box panel, and I will attach 2 jpg pages to the next post so as NOT to mess up the margins of this post, along with photo of my 3/14/2007 JB layout. People "playing along at home" should realize that the LAYOUT of the JB fuse panel changed significantly effective 3/1/2007 build date, and the later 2007 models built BETWEEN 3/1/2007 & 8/2007 had the NEW layout which was continued in the 2008 & Later Models.

HOWEVER, the Late 2007 models had a different (and conFUSE-ing ;-) numbering system. That numbering system was CHANGED effective 9/1/2007 for 2008 & later models. Moral to the story, make SURE you are referring to the CORRECT Fuse Chart, and keep those THREE different iterations in mind. You will see TIS uses the following THREE designations:
(1) "-2007/02" -- for 2006 & Early 2007 Models;
(2) "2007/03 - 2007/08" -- for LATE 2007 Models;
(3) "2007/09+" -- for 2008 & LATER Models;

There were OTHER electrical system changes at other dates, but the above appear to be the change dates for JB Configuration/Layout & Fuse Numbering Convention changes.

Please let us know what you find. I promise NOT to hi-jack your thread with (1) Power Management & "Electric Load Reduction -- Engine Running" discussions (see p.34 of "BMW Voltage Supply & Bus Systems" Training Manual) and/or (2) Battery "Registration", Type & Capacity Coding, Histogram Reset discussions. Suffice it to say that there appears to be a Web Legend that BMW's have magical, undocumented powers with electricity, particularly as it relates to the Battery, Power Management, and the IBS. IF you replaced old battery with NEW Battery of (A) Same Type (FLA vs. AGM), and (B) Same Capacity (Ah or RC), then NO "Registration, Coding, Reset", NOR Incense Burning, Exorcism, or Incantations of ANY Nature, are required.

George

You might want to fact check what you are saying.

The power management system DOES switch off the heated rear window, along with other things like heated seats, mirrors and will also restrict interior fan speedif the battery is in poor condition. I know this for a FACT from working on these cars for 12 years, and having seen the problem and fixing it first hand.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/1tXfVgc


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/2PX46Us

If you still thinks it's all a myth, god help you.

You are very good at reading manuals and quoting them, and you do bring a lot to this forum with the time you spend helping people. But you have little practical knowledge. Lots of theoretical though, which is great. If somebody else has a different opinion to you, doesn't mean you should be a dick and try and berate what they have offered. This forum is about helping people. I was merely pointing out another possibility, not "hijacking the thread" that's just ludicrous.

Like i said in my first post, it may not be this, it may well be a fuse or wiring issue, so not sure why you chose to run that down, but whatever mows your lawn i guess.

I'm not being drawn into anymore debate on this subject.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by relative4

Nothing is wrong with the defogger. Neilj35 has explained the problem thoroughly. Ignoring him and hunting snipe is a stupid waste of time.

Originally Posted by neilj35

You might want to fact check what you are saying. [I cited p.34 of the BMW Training Manual, "BMW E90 Voltage Supply & Bus Systems" which contains the same information you provided in your 2nd link (see Attached BMW TM), so I completely agree that]: The power management system DOES switch off the heated rear window, along with other things like heated seats, mirrors and will also restrict interior fan speed if the battery is in poor condition [AND "the Alternator is fully utilized." So we have NO disagreement about what the Power Management System CAN DO under those circumstances, but see Questions #1 - #5 below]
I know this for a FACT from working on these cars for 12 years, and having seen the problem and fixing it first hand.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/1tXfVgc
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/2PX46Us
If you still thinks it's all a myth, god help you. [As stated above, I do NOT think the substance of BMW TM p.34 & your 2nd link is a myth, nor do I question that the system CAN operate as you & the TM describe; thanks for the Invocation -- I'll take all that help I can get. ]
...you have little practical knowledge. Lots of theoretical though, which is great. [I seem to detect a basic conflict of Engineer vs. Mechanic/Tech. I was NEITHER professionally. I have an engineering degree but became a Lawyer instead. I HAVE maintained my own cars, and helped others with theirs for nearly 60 years. I have great respect for Pro's such as yourself who have to work on the clock and think on their feet. As a retired DIY'er, I expect to take 3 or 4 times as long as it would take you to do any particular task. I have the LUXURY of being able to take as long as necessary to try to understand HOW the system I am working on functions, and to test before swapping parts, using INPA and various electrical meters. NO Professional Tech can afford to be that slow and inquisitive. Two ENTIRELY different approaches. On the Forums, I take the time to research other peoples' problems, 'cuz my 328xi hasn't had any in the 3 years I've owned it. Just routine maintenance including fluid/filter changes and plug change. I'm new to BMW, having owned mostly Jags for the last 50 years, so I try to learn by researching OP's issues. I throw out my observations and theories INVITING competing views and theories, trying NOT to have "pride of authorship" or "falling in love with" the first concept or idea I had about something. To do that is the GREATEST mistake any scientist can make, as you lose OBJECTIVITY.]

If somebody else has a different opinion to you, doesn't mean you should be a dick and try and berate what they have offered. [My attempt at humor related to battery registration was too sarcastic for your tastes I presume ] This forum is about helping people. I was merely pointing out another possibility, not "hijacking the thread" that's just ludicrous. [I was NOT accusing anyone ELSE of hi-jacking the thread, I was acknowledging to OP that I had done so, and suggesting I would refrain from doing that further. However since it appears I have aggravated you and "relative4", I feel the need to explain myself and "clear the air," rather than perpetuate a "Flame War."]...

Egos are like belly-buttons: Everyone has one.
The task is to try NOT to be arrogant or disrespectful. Apparently I failed. Please accept my apology, and feel free to suggest what you believe I should change.

Now, since "this Forum is about helping people, and I'm here to learn as well as try to help, I would appreciate any concepts (preferably with references ;-) related to the following

QUESTIONS:
1) How does the Power Management Module of the DME, which receives input from the IBS related to Battery Voltage, and current flow INTO the battery from the Alternator, and OUT OF the battery to electrical loads, reduce current draw of the devices listed on page 34 of the attached TM, or shut them down completely if required, DURING ENGINE/ALTERNATOR OPERATION? Is that via signals to the JBE via the bus system?
2) Once an "electrical consumer" listed on that page 34 has had it's speed or current draw reduced, or cut off entirely, WHAT is necessary to RESTORE normal current flow to that "consumer?"
3) Is some "Reset" procedure required, or does the component/consumer get normal current flow restored (a) as soon as more current is going INTO the battery (charging) than is going OUT OF the battery (discharging)? (b) Only upon restart or charging the battery to a certain Voltage?
4) If there were some "Reset" procedure to restore current flow to that "Consumer", as opposed to flow returning automatically when low battery charge/voltage was NO LONGER DETECTED, I would think BMW would have instructed its Techs in TM's or otherwise, EXACTLY how to do that.
5) Is there a secret Neil? Are you holding out on us?
Sorry, the devil made me do that.

OP clearly stated in his first post in this thread that he replaced his "original battery" with one of "same type" and "registered" it. Hence my question re WHY disconnecting IBS could "Solve" OP's lack of Rear Window Defogger operation.

I HAVE been known to be dense, so if you believe I'm missing something, or can provide answers to the questions above, please enlighten me. From the questions he asked, it appears "jhah 135", the OP, would also appreciate that information.

BTW, "are we now saying" that if OP merely disconnects the BLUE connector where the IBS attaches to the BSD Bus connector going to the DME, THAT will restore Rear Window Defogger operation???

NO-Brainer OP -- JUST DO IT!! (and PLEASE report the result ;-)



George

[jhah135]

Originally Posted by neilj35

You're welcome. FYI I wasn't suggesting you should mask it at all. I was SUGGESTING another possible cause, if it's not a fuse or wiring issue, and explaining how it works. George seems to have taken it as a personal attack though. Lol! Contrary to what George said the power management system DOES switch of the heated rear window, and numerous other non essential functions like heated seats and mirrors.I know this from experience working as tech for BMW for 12 years, Ive seen it quite a few times in fact. And fixed it. If you used a good quality scan tool to register the battery then it probably won't be an issue. I was just suggesting another possible cause, as i mentioned.

To register the battery I used INPA or NCS (?). I get confused which is which....

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jhah135

To register the battery I used INPA or NCS (?). I get confused which is which....

As Christopher A. Wray, "Current" FBI Director, stated yesterday, 12/9/2019:

"Well, look, there’s all kinds of people saying all kinds of things out there. I think it’s important for the American people [and BMW owners ] to be thoughtful consumers of information and to think about the sources of it and to think about the support and predication for what they hear.”

While Director Wray was NOT talking about Batterietausch Registrieren = Register Replacement Battery, there ARE "all kinds of people" saying "all kinds of things" about "Battery Registration" on the Web and the forums. That term is generally used for ANY change of settings (coding), Histogram Reset (Initialization), or actual "Registration" which is nothing more than entering the current mileage/km shown on the odometer when the "Batterietausch Registrieren" button is pushed.

I would invite ANYONE to share his experience & observations who has actually USED INPA, NCS or ISTA to do ANY of the functions any of those software applications are able to do with regard to:
(1) Battery Registration (INPA);
(2) Histogram Reset (INPA);
(3) Coding change (using NCS) if Battery of different (a) TYPE or (b) CAPACITY is installed; INPA will display the current setting, but NOT CHANGE that setting.

So I'll share what I have learned solely from my own use of BMW Standard Tools, namely INPA & NCS Dummy. I'll attach example screens from INPA or NCS so you can see what the program screen actually shows, and REPEAT my own theory (which is based upon statements on the Bimmerfest Forum of a BMW-trained Tech & Shop Owner, BMW-North). I'll attach INPA & NCS Screenprints to next post to avoid messing up margins here. All INPA Screens and Module Menu Paths are those for my 3/14/2007 328xi E91.

1) REGISTER: In INPA: DME > F5 Status > F5 PM (PowerManagement Module) > F5 Batterietausch registrieren (Register Replacement Battery): This Function ONLY enters the Odometer km reading that exists at the moment the F5 Function Key is pressed. It is ONLY an INFORMATIONAL Reference for a tech who knows to look for that "Text Field," and it has NOTHING to do with the way the battery is charged or how the IBS functions. Simply to have the vehicle carry all maintenance data of which it is capable, Register the Replacment Battery (cause kilometer reading in the Odometer to be entered in text field), so that future tech reference will know MILEAGE(km), NOT DATE, at which replacement done. Your battery sticker & receipt will be your proof of purchase & purchase date should warranty replacement of new battery be required.

2) HISTOGRAM: INPA: DME: F5 Status > F5 PM > F6 Histogram Reset: This Function clears the 5 Histogram entries; while helpful to do this if you have the proper software to "Reset Histogram", it is NOT necessary, as the Histogram is "updated" at every start or every day (NOT sure which). The value "vor 5 Tagen" = "5 days ago" is deleted and the other 4 days move DOWN one spot, so that after 5 days, ALL the histogram data that existed on the date you replaced the battery has been over-written, whether you "Reset Histogram" or NOT.

3) CODE or OPTION for Type/Capacity: INPA: DME: F5 Status > F5 PM > F3 PM InfoField 2, Batterie Kapazitat in Ah (Battery Capacity in AmpHours); INPA ONLY DISPLAYS the current coding or capacity option selected in the option list. Using BMW Standard Tools (of which INPA is ONE of the programs) you have to use NCS to CHANGE the setting you see in INPA -- INPA CANNOT change the setting. To CHANGE Type/Capacity, using NCS you need to go to CAS Module and scroll down to "KLASSE_BATTERIE - BATTERY TYPE," and select option closest to your capacity for that TYPE of battery.

So if you replace a Flooded Lead Acid Battery of 90 Ah capacity with another FLA of same capacity, you don't need to do ANYTHING. Personally I would check to make sure the "Batterie Kapazitat" currently selected (which you can view in either INPA or NCS) is correct, particularly if the battery you are replacing is NOT the original.

These days batteries such as the Walmart EverStart Maxx, Group H8/49, don't have Ah or RC Capacity ratings on any label or marking, unless it's in a code somewhere stamped on the case, so it's hard to know what capacity to select. Since the only data available on the H8 I bought was 900 CCA, 1000 CA & H8 (largest case that will fit), I simply kept the existing 90Ah capacity setting.

If anyone is aware of anything other than the three Functions described above that need to be Considered, Viewed or Changed, please advise, and indicate WHAT Software is used to view, reset or set/code that Value, and its NAME as identified in the software.

I am NOT an authority on BMW, having owned one for less than 3 years, but I HAVE spent a LOT of time in the last 2 years using INPA and saving screens by Module and translating them using Google Translate, so I have a rather comprehensive list of WHAT can be done using, or what data is shown by, each screen. I'm simply trying to share my observations, AND seek input or correction from anyone having additional/different information or concepts.

Thanks,
George

[gbalthrop]

INPA & NCS DUMMY ScreenPrints Attached:

1) MSV80 PM MainMenu (Hauptmenu)

2) F1 Indentification Battery Sensor

3) F2 PM InfoField 1 "letzter Batteritausch bei km 146260.00"

Last Battery Replacement at 146260 km

4) F3 PM InfoField 2 "Batterie Kapazitat in Ah" 90.00

Battery Capacity in Amp hours 90 Ah; ALSO Histogram Data (Old Battery)

5) NCS Dummy CAS Module KLASSE_BATTERIE - BATTERY TYPE; Select closest value to Actual Ah Capacity of Replacement Battery

George