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      02-28-2020, 10:12 AM   #1
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Coolant Extractor ?

I just put in a new Behr Radiator. It does not have a drain plug.

So, in the future say 50,000 or so miles if I want to change out my coolant how does one do this?

Obviously taking the U shaped pipe off the water pump & thermostat will drain the block, but that won't help me with the radiator etc.

I'm thinking there's a coolant reservoir adapter and some sort of hand pump or air powered system you can get. I have a Mitivac brake fluid extractor that's air powered.

Please Advise...
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      02-28-2020, 10:25 AM   #2
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      02-28-2020, 03:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
... new Behr Radiator. It does not have a drain plug. So... if I want to change out my coolant how does one do this? Obviously taking the U shaped pipe off the water pump & thermostat will drain the block, but that won't help me with the radiator etc. [Unless you open the thermostat by activating, and I don't know how long you can safely do that]...

If your Lower Radiator Hose has NOT been attached to the Thermotat for 13 years, you can probably safely disconnect it at the Thermostat and drain that way. That IS the procedure TIS & Bentley recommend:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-check/P9pN1J4

Aside from risk of breaking OLD plastic fittings, and difficulty in accessing the fitting, it will also be messy, since you will get a sudden rush of coolant from the LOW POINT in the system.

I don't see any way to get coolant out of radiator without disconnecting EITHER the Top Radiator Hose or Bottom Hose, and although the top hose is easier to access, you would have to "pump out" the coolant from the left header. I don't know how open that may be on your model, or if Tranny Cooler, etc. prevents easy tube insertion to get LOW in the header. I would be inclined to just "put on a Wet-Suit" and pull the Lower Hose at the Thermostat.

My N52 has original radiator with drain plug. I'm still trying to determine if you have the Lower Hose disconnected, IF coolant will drain from the block through or around the thermostat diaphragm, and if so, HOW LONG it would take? Or if it is safe to activate the Thermostat for say 30-second intervals several times to promote drainage?

BTW, WHAT Failed with your original radiator that required replacement? Broken Plastic?

George
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      02-28-2020, 08:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
... new Behr Radiator. It does not have a drain plug. So... if I want to change out my coolant how does one do this? Obviously taking the U shaped pipe off the water pump & thermostat will drain the block, but that won't help me with the radiator etc. [COLOR="Red"][Unless you open the thermostat by activating, and I don't know how long you can safely do that]...
[/COLOR]
If your Lower Radiator Hose has NOT been attached to the Thermotat for 13 years, you can probably safely disconnect it at the Thermostat and drain that way. That IS the procedure TIS & Bentley recommend:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-check/P9pN1J4

Aside from risk of breaking OLD plastic fittings, and difficulty in accessing the fitting, it will also be messy, since you will get a sudden rush of coolant from the LOW POINT in the system.

I don't see any way to get coolant out of radiator without disconnecting EITHER the Top Radiator Hose or Bottom Hose, and although the top hose is easier to access, you would have to "pump out" the coolant from the left header. I don't know how open that may be on your model, or if Tranny Cooler, etc. prevents easy tube insertion to get LOW in the header. I would be inclined to just "put on a Wet-Suit" and pull the Lower Hose at the Thermostat.

My N52 has original radiator with drain plug. I'm still trying to determine if you have the Lower Hose disconnected, IF coolant will drain from the block through or around the thermostat diaphragm, and if so, HOW LONG it would take? Or if it is safe to activate the Thermostat for say 30-second intervals several times to promote drainage?

BTW, WHAT Failed with your original radiator that required replacement? Broken Plastic?

George

The original radiator had a crack on the driver's side on the plastic portion of it just to the right of the upper radiator hose.
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      02-28-2020, 08:57 PM   #5
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Are you sure it doesn't have a drain plug? I have a behr for automatic
From turner motorsport
Note: the Behr OEM radiator that we sell does not use this same drain plug. It has it's own drain plug that does not use the tabs. You won't need the factory BMW drain plug ever again.
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      02-29-2020, 07:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Are you sure it doesn't have a drain plug? I have a behr for automatic
From turner motorsport
Note: the Behr OEM radiator that we sell does not use this same drain plug. It has it's own drain plug that does not use the tabs. You won't need the factory BMW drain plug ever again.
In the OEM location, it's just metal. It's funny, the plastic molding that goes around the radiator, on the bottom, has a fitting where the plug screws into. However, when you look at the hole you just set metal. No drain plug.
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      02-29-2020, 07:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Are you sure it doesn't have a drain plug? I have a behr for automatic
From turner motorsport
Note: the Behr OEM radiator that we sell does not use this same drain plug. It has it's own drain plug that does not use the tabs. You won't need the factory BMW drain plug ever again.
I'm not doubting mweisdorfer in his response to your post, but what you wrote is what my response was going to be. I put an aftermarket Behr radiator in my 325i in 2018. It had exactly as you describe, a drain plug but not of the same design the OE radiator has. I find it difficult to believe that the radiator doesn't have a drain in it. I've never seen a radiator without a drain.

But mweisdorfer asked for an adapter that he can use Motive makes an adapter that threads into the bleed screw.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...iator-products
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      02-29-2020, 11:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Are you sure it doesn't have a drain plug? I have a behr for automatic
From turner motorsport
Note: the Behr OEM radiator that we sell does not use this same drain plug. It has it's own drain plug that does not use the tabs. You won't need the factory BMW drain plug ever again.
I'm not doubting mweisdorfer in his response to your post, but what you wrote is what my response was going to be. I put an aftermarket Behr radiator in my 325i in 2018. It had exactly as you describe, a drain plug but not of the same design the OE radiator has. I find it difficult to believe that the radiator doesn't have a drain in it. I've never seen a radiator without a drain.

But mweisdorfer asked for an adapter that he can use Motive makes an adapter that threads into the bleed screw.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...iator-products
This is what mine looks like. No plug.
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      02-29-2020, 12:13 PM   #9
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That seems to be the plug. A quarter may be used to turn.

Btw, for 335i the drain plug is not in a easy location due to the intercooler. To drain, In the past i have removed the transmission cooler ( i think that is waht it is) hose which is a quick connect hose.
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      02-29-2020, 01:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
That seems to be the plug. A quarter may be used to turn.

Btw, for 335i the drain plug is not in a easy location due to the intercooler. To drain, In the past i have removed the transmission cooler ( i think that is waht it is) hose which is a quick connect hose.
I have a 5" stepped FMIC. So, it's just two, 11mm nuts & then the two, OEM connections. The FMIC comes out pretty painlessly. It's also not all that difficult to put back into place really.

The OEM FMIC was sort of a pain yes.

The steel in the middle is what's throwing me a loop.
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      02-29-2020, 02:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I have a 5" stepped FMIC. So, it's just two, 11mm nuts & then the two, OEM connections. The FMIC comes out pretty painlessly. It's also not all that difficult to put back into place really.

The OEM FMIC was sort of a pain yes.

The steel in the middle is what's throwing me a loop.
I'm pretty sure the steel in the middle is a valve. As you open the big plastic nut the valve opens up. That's what my Behr radiator looks like too.

And I know you were looking for an extractor, but the Motive adapter will let you load the cooling system with compressed air (at a low PSI value of course), which will help push the coolant out through an open hose
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Last edited by Efthreeoh; 02-29-2020 at 03:02 PM..
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