[VisualEcho]

Hey guys, I recently picked up a used M Performance suspension and will be doing the install this Saturday (special thanks to M Fifty and Mosely ), but I'm needing some guidance on the front height adjustment, since there is a lot more adjustment than I imagined.

I believe the rear is set all the way down, so that's easy, but I'm wondering if anyone remembers how many threads are visible on the bottom of the front strut (or might take a wheel off and count them for me) to get me in the ballpark.

I realize every car is a bit different, and there will still be final adjustments, but at least this would get me close.

If no one replies I'll reply back after I get it perfect with the information for people to find in future searches.

Also, since this suspension has 5,000 miles on it, should it also settle a bit, or be fine to align right after install?

I appreciate any info guys, just hoping someone out there is as OCD as me about this stuff, or is so bored out of their skull that they don't mind taking a wheel off to help a guy out.

[omasou]

Not a picture of the front but some pics and info...

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1624621

[MR RIZK]

From what I have read. 595/600mm measured from bottom of rim to arch.

It has already settled.

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Hey guys, I recently picked up a used M Performance suspension and will be doing the install this Saturday (special thanks to M Fifty and Mosely ), but I'm needing some guidance on the front height adjustment, since there is a lot more adjustment than I imagined.

I believe the rear is set all the way down, so that's easy, but I'm wondering if anyone remembers how many threads are visible on the bottom of the front strut (or might take a wheel off and count them for me) to get me in the ballpark.

I realize every car is a bit different, and there will still be final adjustments, but at least this would get me close.

If no one replies I'll reply back after I get it perfect with the information for people to find in future searches.

Also, since this suspension has 5,000 miles on it, should it also settle a bit, or be fine to align right after install?

I appreciate any info guys, just hoping someone out there is as OCD as me about this stuff, or is so bored out of their skull that they don't mind taking a wheel off to help a guy out.

That looks quite high? Is there a top mount fitted?

For comparison:

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

That looks quite high? Is there a top mount fitted?

For comparison:

Dude, to the rescue again! You're awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for!

The picture I took is just how I got them. The guy was nice enough to clean them thoroughly, but in doing so changed all the adjustments.

[omasou]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Dude, to the rescue again! You're awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for!

The picture I took is just how I got them. The guy was nice enough to clean them thoroughly, but in doing so changed all the adjustments.

Look for a mark on the thread from the set screw.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by omasou

Look for a mark on the thread from the set screw.

Seems nutty to me how everyone has to reinvent the wheel with this stuff. Not sure why they don't come from the factory with something showing a range where it should be, within a turn or two. Again, I know every car is different, but not that different. And I realize people want different things, but when they specify 595/600, they should at least mark that general position on the strut IMO.

[M Fifty]

They are V3s in a different colour so in some applications I'm guessing they actually use the whole range.

I think the Port Installed LCI cars had collars fitted that meant you couldn't take them lower.

[omasou]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Seems nutty to me how everyone has to reinvent the wheel with this stuff. Not sure why they don't come from the factory with something showing a range where it should be, within a turn or two. Again, I know every car is different, but not that different. And I realize people want different things, but when they specify 595/600, they should at least mark that general position on the strut IMO.

Mine came extended, perhaps fully extend. Probably to remove pressure while sitting on the shelf.

[x233]

Like you said, the rear is easy - all the way down.

The front may differ a bit from car to car. In my case on M2C DCT I could count 7.5 - 8 threads from the bottom to (the bottom of) the spring adjuster, dealer installed. My front is lowered to the spec, 595 mm in the front.

[Caduceus]

Originally Posted by omasou

Mine came extended, perhaps fully extend. Probably to remove pressure while sitting on the shelf.

You need to extend them during the installation process anyway unless you want to use a spring compressor. Otherwise the top nut will be under tension while you are doing it up. Some people will use the weight of the car but I prefer to remove all preload by winding the perch down, attach the top and torque down the nut then wind the perch back up to preload the spring and set ride height.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by x233

Like you said, the rear is easy - all the way down.

The front may differ a bit from car to car. In my case on M2C DCT I could count 7.5 - 8 threads from the bottom to (the bottom of) the spring adjuster, dealer installed. My front is lowered to the spec, 595 mm in the front.

Now that is interesting. Now I'm wondering if M Fifty has his car ultra low.

I wonder if you guys can post side shots.

Originally Posted by Caduceus

You need to extend them during the installation process anyway unless you want to use a spring compressor. Otherwise the top nut will be under tension while you are doing it up. Some people will use the weight of the car but I prefer to remove all preload by winding the perch down, attach the top and torque down the nut then wind the perch back up to preload the spring and set ride height.

I purchased a spring compressor for the job, but if I'm honest, I'm not too sure how to do all this properly. I don't really even understand preload.

[x233]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Now that is interesting. Now I'm wondering if M Fifty has his car ultra low.

I wonder if you guys can post side shots.

I'd have to take the wheel off (which I don't want to do unless I have to, sorry). I turned the wheel, tucked my hand behind it and took a shot, as best as I could, and counted the threads in the picture. Looks like 7.5-8 to me (maybe 7).

I'd set it at 7 threads from the bottom and go from there. You can't hope to place it spot on on your first try just from reading the forum.

My car is M2C so I think my front is a bit heavier than the OG M2, it's also DCT which I think probably makes the front heavier than the manual. That could explain the difference in settings. Could be I have to set the spring a bit higher than the OG M2 manual for my front to be at about the same height.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by x233

I'd have to take the wheel off (which I don't want to do unless I have to, sorry). I turned the wheel, tucked my hand behind it and took a shot, as best as I could, and counted the threads in the picture. Looks like 7.5-8 to me (maybe 7).

I'd set it at 7 threads from the bottom and go from there. You can't hope to place it spot on on your first try just from reading the forum.

My car is M2C so I think my front is a bit heavier than the OG M2, it's also DCT which I think probably makes the front heavier than the manual. That could explain the difference in settings. Could be I have to set the spring a bit higher than the OG M2 manual for my front to be at about the same height.

I just meant a side shot of the car showing the tire/fender gaps front and rear. But thank you for all the info!!!

[Wei718]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Now that is interesting. Now I'm wondering if M Fifty has his car ultra low.

I wonder if you guys can post side shots.




I purchased a spring compressor for the job, but if I'm honest, I'm not too sure how to do all this properly. I don't really even understand preload.

Do you have this tool?

https://www.amazon.com/Schwaben-SCW3.../dp/B007WR6XVO

[Matt Devo]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

I purchased a spring compressor for the job, but if I'm honest, I'm not too sure how to do all this properly. I don't really even understand preload.

preload is the force applied by the spring in the "unloaded" (ie, no vehicle weight on it) position. Some coilovers separate the spring preload from the ride height; the front MP setup (like the KW setups) does not. So by raising the ride height, you add preload, and by lowering you reduce it.

So when you install the front coils, you would lower the height adjustment perch all the way so you can tighten the upper strut mount without any preload being applied to it. Then, you raise the perch, adding preload, and ultimately setting the front ride height. The minimum ride height would be about 5-6mm of preload on the lower collar.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Wei718

Do you have this tool?

https://www.amazon.com/Schwaben-SCW3.../dp/B007WR6XVO

Yes, should be here tomorrow.

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Now that is interesting. Now I'm wondering if M Fifty has his car ultra low.

.

two and a half years later, the front is slightly lower than the 595mm that BMW state, but that's why I included the picture of the front wheel.

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Now that is interesting. Now I'm wondering if M Fifty has his car ultra low.

I wonder if you guys can post side shots.




I purchased a spring compressor for the job, but if I'm honest, I'm not too sure how to do all this properly. I don't really even understand preload.

On the front - if you're planning to re-use the strut tops - amend Mosely's V3 fitting How To on removing the front: with the front suspension supported by a jack under the lower balljoint (and the weight of the car supported), undo the top nut while the strut is still in the car, than slowly lower the suspension using the jack. This makes it possible to take the spring off the strut further improving space when it comes to persuading the strut to separate from the front suspension.

You can fit the front coil-over using the same approach, but you might need someone to operate the jack as you use one hand the guide the end of the shaft into the strut top, while your other hand aligns the top of the spring with the thrust race on the underside of the strut top.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

On the front - if you're planning to re-use the strut tops - amend Mosely's V3 fitting How To on removing the front: with the front suspension supported by a jack under the lower balljoint (and the weight of the car supported), undo the top nut while the strut is still in the car, than slowly lower the suspension using the jack. This makes it possible to take the spring off the strut further improving space when it comes to persuading the strut to separate from the front suspension.

You can fit the front coil-over using the same approach, but you might need someone to operate the jack as you use one hand the guide the end of the shaft into the strut top, while your other hand aligns the top of the spring with the thrust race on the underside of the strut top.

Thanks bro!

It's me and a couple of friends, so all the tips help.

[x233]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

I just meant a side shot of the car showing the tire/fender gaps front and rear. But thank you for all the info!!!

That's my front.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by x233

That's my front.

Dude, that's awesome, thank you!