|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Vacuum Pipe "T" Broke: How to Fix?
|
|
06-24-2021, 01:30 PM | #1 |
Private First Class
108
Rep 148
Posts |
Vacuum Pipe "T" Broke: How to Fix?
Without replacing the entire Vacuum Pipe, how can I fix this?
Maybe drill out the "stub" still stuck in the t and find a connector at the auto parts store? |
06-24-2021, 01:36 PM | #2 |
Major
858
Rep 1,363
Posts
Drives: 09 E90 335i M-Sport 6MT RWD
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
Did the hose break or the actual connector?
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-24-2021, 02:01 PM | #6 |
Lieutenant
140
Rep 445
Posts |
No, heat shrink tubing will NOT fix this for more than about 10 minutes.
The RIGHT thing to do is replace the whole pipe. If you're not willing to do that, then there is enough left on the tee to put a larger hose on the broken fitting. Then go to a hardware store and find a reducer fitting to reduce the large hose to the small one. Use clamps on ALL joints. |
Appreciate
1
Explorerlyon108.00 |
06-24-2021, 02:52 PM | #7 |
Private First Class
108
Rep 148
Posts |
I was thinking of something like this. Drill out the existing hard "T" that broke off and glue one end into the hard "t" of the main boost line. Clamp the smaller flexible rubber hose to the other end. Just need a solid air-tight connection right?
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-24-2021, 03:25 PM | #8 |
Major
418
Rep 1,152
Posts |
Just get a bigger hose that will fit on the left over bit and a adaptor to small hose. Supeglue the big hose and that sucker wont go anywhere.
I used the same method on a boost signal line that didnt have a barb and no issues. I hit 20psi, i use the gorilla super glue. |
Appreciate
1
Explorerlyon108.00 |
06-24-2021, 03:52 PM | #9 |
Brigadier General
2740
Rep 4,066
Posts |
NO NAPA Nearby? Datsa Disgrace!
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search...ualified=false Here's the "Universal 3/8", 1/4", 1/8" plastic solution for $3 plus gas to pick it up: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP7...=vacuum+hose+t George |
Appreciate
0
|
06-24-2021, 04:35 PM | #10 |
Brigadier General
2685
Rep 4,202
Posts
Drives: '11 335is | '16 Macan Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Everywhere and Nowhere
|
__________________
'11 335is BSM MT "BMW Performance Editon" | '16 Porsche Macan Turbo
GruppeM CF Intake | AR Resonated DP | ER CP | Turbosmart RacePort BOV | Cobb FMIC | RB Inlets | RB External Mishi/Turner OCC | Michelin PS4 | BMW Performance Springs/Bilstein B8 + Dinan & M3 bits | BMW Brembo BBK | BMW Performance CF Spoiler | BMW Performance CF Lip | BMW Performance Alcantara | PS Designs GTS Armrest | AG H6-40 | Rear Seat Delete |
Appreciate
0
|
06-24-2021, 05:56 PM | #11 |
Captain
672
Rep 733
Posts |
I'd be careful with those cheap white vacuum Tees from the auto parts stores. They're usually soft and shitty plastic that tears at the slightest load once they've experienced engine bay heat cycling for a little while. I agree with the above posts suggesting to use a larger hose to go on the barb, with a reducer tucked away on the harness side of the hose, away from the heat of the cooling fan blowing on it.
Alternatively, if this is an N52 car (or any e9x where that tee is simply for the exhaust flap), if you don't mind the louder exhaust note with the flapper always open, you can get two vacuum caps- one larger one to cap off that T, and another smaller one to cap off the vacuum line that runs to the rear of the car inside the harness. The effect would be no different than the Golf-Tee mod. |
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|