02-10-2025, 01:27 PM | #1 |
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Do-it-yourself high voltage battery change. x no longer under warranty
Hi everyone, I have a bmw 530e 2017 g30, the high voltage battery is at the end of its life, 3 cells inside are defective, I tried to go to bmw for a quote and they asked me €8500 🤦*♂️🤦*♂️. so I decided to go and buy a used one from the scrapyard, I found a 2023 12kW one, mine had a 9kW one, I opened them to see if they are the same, and they are perfectly the same and I managed to change them, I left the old control units there so as not to have errors in the car, I put it on and tried everything, the car doesn't give me any errors, only that the car considers that the battery is at 30% and always gives me a basic autonomy like the one before, does anyone know how to reset the battery cycles, by entering the control unit it tells me that the battery is discharged at 3257 charge cycles, is there a way to reset the number of cycles, thanks
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02-10-2025, 01:54 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2020 BMW 530xe
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I don't have the answer to your question, but the community would be interested in more details about your swap in general!
According to BMW the MY2020 and later batteries aren't compatible with the older cars as they changed the voltages of the battery pack. If they are indeed compatible that means owners of MY2017-MY2019 can get access to the upgraded capacity from MY2020+ which is pretty cool!! |
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02-10-2025, 02:16 PM | #3 |
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inside there are 6 modules, each with 16 cells, both the new and the old ones are the same, as for the voltage they are perfectly the same 355v only the capacity changes, the nev modules have a capacity of 2kw, the old ones have a capacity of 1.4kw, as for the dimensions of the modules they are SAME even the holes of the holes, screws, dimensions of the orange control system (BMS), the only thing that is different are the cables in the plug, I put the old plug to go well with the control unit
Last edited by bubuliviu; 02-10-2025 at 11:04 PM.. |
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arkhi292.50 |
02-10-2025, 03:04 PM | #5 |
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the car now works very well only that I look for the car it shows me that it has 11kw loaded but when it shows me the autonomy of the kilometers and the same as I did with the old one, the control unit calculates if you have an old battery, now I do 16km with a full tank it shows me on the dashboard that after 16kw the percentage of the battery goes to 0 zero I park the car and when I go the second day it shows me that the battery is at 40% without me looking for it and after that I still do 6 8 kilometers, for this I ask if anyone knows how to reset the control unit, with ista and icom it is not possible or tried but nothing
Last edited by bubuliviu; 02-10-2025 at 03:15 PM.. |
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02-11-2025, 06:30 AM | #7 |
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BimmerLink (service related app of BimmerCode) has functionality for battery registration for the main car battery. Perhaps it has similar functionality for the hybrid battery?
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Current: 2023 G30 M550i xDrive | 2022 & 2018 G01 X3 xDrive30i Past: 2019 540i M Sport | 2017 F30 340i M Sport/6MT | 2013 E70 X5 3.5 | 2011 E90 ///M3 6MT | 2005 E46 330i ZHP 6MT | 2001 E53 X5 3.0 | 2000 E39 528i Sport/5MT | 1998 E39 528iA | 1997 E38 740i | 1993 E36 318is Last edited by tsbrown; 02-11-2025 at 06:38 AM.. |
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CnSky414.00 |
02-11-2025, 10:03 AM | #8 |
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I use the icom (clone) yes there is the possibility to reset the two auxiliary batteries, there is also the possibility to reset, change the high voltage battery, but there is a complex procedure and in the end the battery must be tested with a device called EOS that is only owned by BMW, it generates a 12 digit code and then the reset can be completed. If there is someone who has the BimmerCode program can see if there is the possibility of resetting,
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tsbrown2480.00 |
03-18-2025, 07:09 AM | #9 |
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this may be the most important thread around Hybrids, I hope you get the solution you're looking for my friend.
I'm pretty sure everyone will appreciate not getting a bricked car, or with a crazy expensive battery replacement quote.
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03-18-2025, 12:45 PM | #10 |
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04-25-2025, 01:13 AM | #12 |
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If you haven't already figured it out, here's some thoughts...
The battery management module relies on a combination of voltage reading and Coulomb counting to estimate the battery state of charge. While you're driving, the battery management module looks at how much current you're drawing, and for how long, and makes an assumption as to how that affects the battery state of charge. E.g. since you've drawn 26 amps continuously for an hour, the 26ah battery is now discharged fully. Essentially, it lowers the state of charge based on the current... Higher discharge current = battery % drops faster. Coulomb counting is used because the voltage drops and goes up every time you discharge and charge the battery. It's not reasonable to make a very accurate estimate of the state of charge this way. However, after the car's sat for a while you get open circuit voltage, which is a fairly accurate way of finding the state of charge of an NMC cell. The reason why the shown charge jumps back up after you've let the car rest is that the car is now using the open circuit voltage to estimate the battery's charge level. I assume you didn't properly program the battery modules in. Thus, the battery box thinks there's still a 26ah pack in there, so the coulomb counting is still flagging the battery as dead after you've drawn 22ah or whatever the usable capacity is. In ISTA I believe there is a part of the battery replacement ABL where you scan the barcode on the side of the battery module. This probably inputs the capacity. One other thing to try is to update the BMS I-Step, change your vehicle order build date to something newer like 2021, and factory code the BMS. |
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