[andyandyquick]

2017 G30 540i Stage 2+ 137K

I've found myself in disbelief how things deteriorated so quickly. It started out as a simple coolant leak. But at the moment, my situation is that I am in a non-start condition. The engine turns over, but does not start.

I understood that this is likely a fuse responsible for injection and ignition. To be on the safe side, I did order a new wiring harness as the factory installed harness had begun fracturing at the coil electrical connectors, etc. It is my guess that finding a fractured connector that only had been making intermittent contact with the coil could possibly cause a fuse to blow. Although I am having some difficulty determining what fuse number specifically handles the ignition. Best guess is the BDC fuses located in the front passenger footwell about knee high vertically. I will check these fuses as well next.

Due to DIY service without the proper power supply being connected, I have found myself at 6.4V on the battery, and 6.2V on the auxiliary battery. Neither battery will charge using the jump terminals. I am using a CTEK 5.0 with no luck bringing the batteries up to 12-14V.

So the way I see it, my options are as follows, but I simply have no idea which is the correct path or order to troubleshoot.

1. Purchase the two new batteries.
2. Replace the Integrated supply module
3. Replace fuse box 1
4. Buy a BMW approved charger.

Would appreciate very much if anyone had some guidance for me. I could really use it. Thank you.

[tsbrown]

Originally Posted by andyandyquick

2017 G30 540i Stage 2+ 137K

I've found myself in disbelief how things deteriorated so quickly. It started out as a simple coolant leak. But at the moment, my situation is that I am in a non-start condition. The engine turns over, but does not start.

I understood that this is likely a fuse responsible for injection and ignition. To be on the safe side, I did order a new wiring harness as the factory installed harness had begun fracturing at the coil electrical connectors, etc. It is my guess that finding a fractured connector that only had been making intermittent contact with the coil could possibly cause a fuse to blow. Although I am having some difficulty determining what fuse number specifically handles the ignition. Best guess is the BDC fuses located in the front passenger footwell about knee high vertically. I will check these fuses as well next.

Due to DIY service without the proper power supply being connected, I have found myself at 6.4V on the battery, and 6.2V on the auxiliary battery. Neither battery will charge using the jump terminals. I am using a CTEK 5.0 with no luck bringing the batteries up to 12-14V.

So the way I see it, my options are as follows, but I simply have no idea which is the correct path or order to troubleshoot.

1. Purchase the two new batteries.
2. Replace the Integrated supply module
3. Replace fuse box 1
4. Buy a BMW approved charger.

Would appreciate very much if anyone had some guidance for me. I could really use it. Thank you.

The CTEK 5.0 should work, I have the same one and used it to recharge my battery after it was drained by the detailer last fall. Well, actually I had to jump it with a NOCO GB50 booster to drive home, but I let it sit overnight on the CTEK charger.

Any idea how old your main trunk battery is? If it's over 4 years old chances are it needs to be replaced. Mine was 6 years old when I traded my 540i but the car only had 50k miles and I never used ASS, assuming that could shorten battery life along with the starter.

These cars are very sensitive to low batteries because of all the electronics. I would let it recharge overnight if you can and see if that fixes it. Also, if you have BimmerLink (the service app for BimmerCode) run a diagnostic to see what error codes it's throwing. You may have to wait for the battery to recharge.

[BWilson263]

Depending on the age of your battery I would replace the 12v battery with a new battery. Always start troubleshooting with 12-14 volts. Low voltage will cause all sort of problems.

[andyandyquick]

Originally Posted by BWilson263

Depending on the age of your battery I would replace the 12v battery with a new battery. Always start troubleshooting with 12-14 volts. Low voltage will cause all sort of problems.

Replaced the batteries and am still trying to troubleshoot the crank, no start. I've ordered a new Integrated Supply Module after checking all other fuses.

[aerof16]

What was the DIY service you are talking about? Is it throwing any codes now that you have new batteries?

[andyandyquick]

Originally Posted by aerof16

What was the DIY service you are talking about? Is it throwing any codes now that you have new batteries?

I had been doing various projects, leaving doors open, etc. I just drained the batteries as I did not have a charger connected. I registered the new battery and no codes are present.

[aerof16]

Originally Posted by andyandyquick

I had been doing various projects, leaving doors open, etc. I just drained the batteries as I did not have a charger connected. I registered the new battery and no codes are present.

Got it - but what projects have you been doing? Anything mechanical/electrical?

Dead batteries shouldn’t cause any kind of damage that would prevent the car from starting once replaced, so I’m wondering what else is going on.

Fuel, spark, timing, compression and the engine will start…

[Tpriest7893]

Originally Posted by BWilson263

Depending on the age of your battery I would replace the 12v battery with a new battery. Always start troubleshooting with 12-14 volts. Low voltage will cause all sort of problems.

My electrical modules on my f30 335 were failing and the Indy shop replaced my alternator twice until they decided to try the battery and boom… battery fixed it.

[andyandyquick]

Originally Posted by aerof16

Got it - but what projects have you been doing? Anything mechanical/electrical?

Dead batteries shouldn’t cause any kind of damage that would prevent the car from starting once replaced, so I’m wondering what else is going on.

Fuel, spark, timing, compression and the engine will start…

Ah, yes, so the totality of projects and troubleshooting was like this:

Coolant leak: determined to be oil filter housing: replaced it
Second coolant leak revealed itself after oil filter housing was replace: this was the turbo coolant return line: replaced it.
Once reassembled, there was a new issue of misfiring: replaced plugs, sensors, and vanos.
Dead and unchargable batteries: replaced them.
Once plugs and batteries were replaced a new issue of crank no start began: discovered the connector to cylinder 4 had fractured and was in two pirces while connected still: replaced wiring harness for injection and ignition: crank, no start persisted.
Checked for blown fuses and found none: learned of the integrated supply module being a hidden bank of fuses from another member, Robin750: replalced the Intergrated supply module:: runs great now. All issues resolved.

However, in the middle of these processes, I was in a position to need the car moved to another location. I called for a tow but was not present when the driver arrived. He improperly towed the car 30 miles at freeway speeds with no tow dolly and on its front wheels with the steering wheele tied up in the seat belt. Once car was running, damage was evident in pull to left at high speed and strong pull on heavy braking, center console also has high heat coming up, and braking performance degraded. AAA is so far open to paying for repairs as a result of that tow.

[Igor_M5]

Originally Posted by andyandyquick

Ah, yes, so the totality of projects and troubleshooting was like this:

Coolant leak: determined to be oil filter housing: replaced it
Second coolant leak revealed itself after oil filter housing was replace: this was the turbo coolant return line: replaced it.
Once reassembled, there was a new issue of misfiring: replaced plugs, sensors, and vanos.
Dead and unchargable batteries: replaced them.
Once plugs and batteries were replaced a new issue of crank no start began: discovered the connector to cylinder 4 had fractured and was in two pirces while connected still: replaced wiring harness for injection and ignition: crank, no start persisted.
Checked for blown fuses and found none: learned of the integrated supply module being a hidden bank of fuses from another member, Robin750: replalced the Intergrated supply module:: runs great now. All issues resolved.

However, in the middle of these processes, I was in a position to need the car moved to another location. I called for a tow but was not present when the driver arrived. He improperly towed the car 30 miles at freeway speeds with no tow dolly and on its front wheels with the steering wheele tied up in the seat belt. Once car was running, damage was evident in pull to left at high speed and strong pull on heavy braking, center console also has high heat coming up, and braking performance degraded. AAA is so far open to paying for repairs as a result of that tow.

xDrive?