[tinnsoldaten]

Is there no one in here that got the data on those bearings ?

Im about to peel down my diff and hand it over to diff mechanic , he recommends me to install new bearings with this job.

Im putting in a new quaife LSD on my 2006 335i AT

I will be without a car for days no if I have to wait for new bearings...

Has everybody here used the old bearings , no issues after?

IMO , ballbearings , yes I believe those will have more movement after worn a bit , but rollerbearings? Help me out here please

[tinnsoldaten]

Its down now , handed over to diff. mech

hopefully its ready tomorrow

Anyone got torque for the bolts on axle shafts?

and refitting the parts on driveshaft side , looks like those parts gets ruined when turning that large 2" nut.

[tinnsoldaten]

Got my pumpkin back with new quaife LSD inside... mmm

no rep kit yet , due to snow storm in the mountains , train had to return ..... damn...

Well Im a pro now , fitting the repkit later will be easy

Also got the data on the OEM bearings inside pumpkin...

Will post em later...

[jb's335]

Thanks for posting up your efforts. Let us know how it feels with the new LSD! BTW you have a pm

[tinnsoldaten]

These are the numbers :

7518219
F-237543
143 06

These where ball bearings....

[stressdoc]

Where can we get the bearings? What source?
Good work!

[tinnsoldaten]

Yahooooo!!!! holly molly.... slight difference ....

My car is reborn again.....

Never again open differential !!!

They say the traction system are supposed to prevent you from spinning on snowy/icy road , true.... but you will also NOT go where you want to , it just kill to much power.

Well , Im of to court , accused of speeding , ME? wish me luck...

[tinnsoldaten]

Quote from orb:

When you install the final drive assembly and install the fasteners you have to tighten the upper mount to 100 Nm first and then tighten the bolt and nut to 165 Nm (the nut should be torqued not the bolt- Important). If you do not do it in this sequence then you may have potential noise problems due to distortions of the differential. In short, they (BMW) are saying you will preload the isolator mounts and will cause a clunk if you don’t follow this procedure.

The other item is that the “Insert Nut + seal + clip” assembly must be replaced and not reused. You will find this part at real OEM under propeller shaft call insert nut repair kit. The instruction say to torque the inset nut to 150 Nm and the threads must have no grease on it. It does say you only have 5 minutes to make the connection once you start so take it seriously. I’m not sure why BMW has said that you have 5 minutes.

Also, I wouldn’t recommend any Redline products. Stick with the BMW stuff or Silkolene. The redline just makes normal drive line noise a lot louder than it should be. After changing the oil to Silkolene it back to what it was before the install.

I know you will not be happy with M sport rear sway bar at all. If the rear had 17-18 mm rear bar it would still have a fair amount of under steer. It just the way it worked out even thought it seems to be a big change.

Good luck ...

Orb

thank you Orb

[tinnsoldaten]

I got a in court today , Im pretty sure , 80$ or 1000 NOk a month for a year...

I got the rep kit for the axle , it got some compound on the threads , this will activate upon friction . That is why you only got 5 minutes once you start.

[stressdoc]

I just reused the nut with some loctite. Hope I don't have to remove it again... But the seals and clips replaced.

What is the reason for bearing replacement? They seem pretty indestructible ??? I was thinking of going to a tougher tapered roller bearing on the Ring gear side but just stuck with the originals.

[tinnsoldaten]

Originally Posted by stressdoc

I just reused the nut with some loctite. Hope I don't have to remove it again... But the seals and clips replaced.

What is the reason for bearing replacement? They seem pretty indestructible ??? I was thinking of going to a tougher tapered roller bearing on the Ring gear side but just stuck with the originals.

I agree , use it till it breaks then replace it....

The bearing recommendation is from LSD producers , just new OEM bearings.
And same for oil , use OEM oil , at least what the Quaife instructions say.

But we all like the extra strong stuff.... dont we...

Taking the differential down is no problem , I just did it twice , on my own , you will need a carjack to lower and rise the heavy piece of metal...

See you all later im off to enjoy the weekend....

[dzenno]

which bearings did you replace here, carrier or pinion, do you know? sorry to bring back this thread from the dead...

[wilho]

Hi,

Sorry to reply to old thread, but where did you source these ball bearings?

I could probably get from the same place as in Finland. Getting my Quaife installed soon.

BR, Ville

[johmei]

Sorry for the thread bump of the year but I cannot get any good information regarding the diff bearings. I need to source the pinion bearings but cannot find information on what to get. Are the bearings different on manual vs automatic? I have 2007 manual welded ring gear but getting new bolted (3.46) ring gear and pinion. Thanks

[blown07]

Originally Posted by johmei

Sorry for the thread bump of the year but I cannot get any good information regarding the diff bearings. I need to source the pinion bearings but cannot find information on what to get. Are the bearings different on manual vs automatic? I have 2007 manual welded ring gear but getting new bolted (3.46) ring gear and pinion. Thanks

Sorry to say but if you have a large pumpkin diff with ball bearings they are not available anywhere. I reused mine with no problem and they looked mint at 85kkm. Good luck.
Edit - you may have a small diff and they are available.

[johmei]

Originally Posted by blown07

Sorry to say but if you have a large pumpkin diff with ball bearings they are not available anywhere. I reused mine with no problem and they looked mint at 85kkm. Good luck.
Edit - you may have a small diff and they are available.

Thanks for your reply. No it is the large one with ballbearings. The problem we are facing is that the inner/center part of the bearings are stuck really hard on the pinion, we are manufacturing a fitting that will hold the bearing all around the edge for maximum divide of pressure enabling us to use a larger press/pulling tool. I guess we just got a a bearing that is pressed a little harder than usual.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by johmei

Thanks for your reply. No it is the large one with ballbearings. The problem we are facing is that the inner/center part of the bearings are stuck really hard on the pinion, we are manufacturing a fitting that will hold the bearing all around the edge for maximum divide of pressure enabling us to use a larger press/pulling tool. I guess we just got a a bearing that is pressed a little harder than usual.

This was my biggest concern as well when I had to change over the inner races between differentials (I assume by pinion you actually mean the differential?). Get a very sharp say 1/2" wide drift and slowly work your way around the race. When you get enough of a gap you can use a two piece bearing splitter to pull the race off the rest of the way. Actually was a lot easier than I thought initially.

[johmei]

Originally Posted by blown07

This was my biggest concern as well when I had to change over the inner races between differentials (I assume by pinion you actually mean the differential?). Get a very sharp say 1/2" wide drift and slowly work your way around the race. When you get enough of a gap you can use a two piece bearing splitter to pull the race off the rest of the way. Actually was a lot easier than I thought initially.

No it is actually the pinion bearing inner races I am talking about. The diff bearings to the half shafts are no problem. Anyone reusing the ring gear and pinion would not have my problem. I have gotten a new pinion and ring gear to change the ratio and thus need to change over all the bearings or get new ones. New ones would be nice but does seem like a big headache to source..

[DRiiFTAHOLiiK_e90]

Originally Posted by tinnsoldaten

These are the numbers :

7518219
F-237543
143 06

These where ball bearings....

did you use the stock differential with the 3.46 ratio that came with your car? im wondering if these specs can be used with the diff i have which is a 3.64 out of a automatic 330i for my 330i MT. what do you think?