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      03-18-2009, 04:34 PM   #1
jkp1187
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DIY Request: High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Replacement

Just what the title says. It occurs to me that the HPFP is one of those items that, despite the new generation one in the '09 135is, may be more prone to failure out of warranty.

I am asking if anyone can post a DIY on how to replace this part. Seems to be that for those who keep their cars beyond the warranty period, this is something that will have to be addressed one way or another.

Thanks.
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      03-18-2009, 05:04 PM   #2
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too early to ask in a 1 forum maybe try e90post they have had issues longer than the 1's life.
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      03-18-2009, 05:28 PM   #3
jkp1187
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Maybe. In case there are any differences in the changing process, though, I figured I'd ask here first.
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      03-18-2009, 05:37 PM   #4
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This is the same issue that I worry about. This is why I bought a service manual such that I know how to replace it if I can do it myself. I can't tell you now since they have not sent me the manual yet. I will let you know once I figure it out how to do it.
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7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
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      03-18-2009, 05:50 PM   #5
jkp1187
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Thanks, My135 -- I appreciate it!

Where did you get the manual from?
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      03-18-2009, 05:58 PM   #6
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I buy it from eBay: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=350145859827

I believer it is for 2007 European models. However, it is cheap and I think it is worth the risk to check it out.

I will let you know after I got it, hopefully this week.
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7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
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      03-18-2009, 07:56 PM   #7
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ha, i'd like to see a DIY for this. i started to write one up, then 1/4 through it, i gave up. it's too tedious and i don't have to patience to sit here and type it out with pics
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      03-19-2009, 11:05 AM   #8
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So, how difficult to DIY?
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7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
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      03-19-2009, 02:44 PM   #9
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well, depends on your level of technical skill. for the avg. DIYer, i'd say 7/10 (10 being hard as poop).

1. remove airbox tube and airbox (6mm hose clamp on front and backside of box, 2 torx screw for the air tube, unclip vacuum tube attached to air box, 3 wire harness attachments on back of airbox must be detached)
2. are you still with me???
3. remove pipe with diverter valves (gray lock ring, twist to unlock, pressure sensor near throttle body)
4. remove throttle body (4 10mm bolts, plastic tube, wire connector)
5. carefully pull up on harness junction underneath throttle to access aluminum torx bolt that holds hard fuel line. bolt is marked blue (this must be replaced and torqued properly)
6. undo all fuel connections at HPFP, 2 total (17mm). **crack them loose carefully, high PSI**
7. HPFP is located on the side of the block under oil filter housing
8. disconnect wire connector to HPFP
9. THIS IS THE TRICKY PART - using a LONG 5mm ball-headed allen socket, remove the 3 allen bolts that hold the HPFP. **oil will leak when removing pump**
10. align HPFP cam (it only fits one way) and re-assemble everything in reverse.

that should be everything. if you can follow those steps without pics, you're above the avg. DIYer. good luck, don't hold me responsible if you mess up.
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      03-19-2009, 03:41 PM   #10
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After the warranty period expired, if dealer charged me >$400 in labor, I would attemp to do it myself to save some serious money. Based on your description, I think I can do it within 6 hours the first time. Thanks for the procedures and I will compare it to the service manual.
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7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
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      03-19-2009, 04:00 PM   #11
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i believe the service manual requires the removal of the intake manifold. there's no need to. i've done this repair numerous times.
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      03-19-2009, 04:04 PM   #12
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The air box should not be a problem for me since I am going to install an injen intake which I bought from the GB. I am going to install the in-take myself too. So how long did it take you to do the first time?
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7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
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      03-20-2009, 08:07 AM   #13
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first time took me about 1.5 hrs. now i got it down to about 15 mins.
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      08-06-2009, 04:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imdanomite View Post
well, depends on your level of technical skill. for the avg. DIYer, i'd say 7/10 (10 being hard as poop).

1. remove airbox tube and airbox (6mm hose clamp on front and backside of box, 2 torx screw for the air tube, unclip vacuum tube attached to air box, 3 wire harness attachments on back of airbox must be detached)
2. are you still with me???
3. remove pipe with diverter valves (gray lock ring, twist to unlock, pressure sensor near throttle body)
4. remove throttle body (4 10mm bolts, plastic tube, wire connector)
5. carefully pull up on harness junction underneath throttle to access aluminum torx bolt that holds hard fuel line. bolt is marked blue (this must be replaced and torqued properly)
6. undo all fuel connections at HPFP, 2 total (17mm). **crack them loose carefully, high PSI**
7. HPFP is located on the side of the block under oil filter housing
8. disconnect wire connector to HPFP
9. THIS IS THE TRICKY PART - using a LONG 5mm ball-headed allen socket, remove the 3 allen bolts that hold the HPFP. **oil will leak when removing pump**
10. align HPFP cam (it only fits one way) and re-assemble everything in reverse.

that should be everything. if you can follow those steps without pics, you're above the avg. DIYer. good luck, don't hold me responsible if you mess up.
Reviving this thread....

Thanks for posting this. Since you seem to be in the know, curious about how much this would actually cost to pay a dealer to do this? How many hours are billed? Any idea on the cost of the HPFP itself?
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