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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Stalling - 06 325



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      11-05-2010, 11:58 PM   #1
desantim
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Unhappy Stalling - 06 325

Hello all. Got a bone stock 06 325 auto. Having an issue with the thing dying. It happens at idle or driving, any speed. No difference. I also have been getting a rougher idle periodically with no real rhyme or reason. That just started today, about a week or two after the initial dying started.

When idle the thing will just shut off. No rumble no hesitation, just dead. I think i have noticed it happening when i just start hitting the accelerator after idling at a stop. Not usually under constant throttle after a stop.

It also happens at speed. This does not kill the car entirely as like a manual, if you turn the car off and pop the clutch, it restarts the car. Being an auto, it causes quite a jolt, but the car comes back go life immediately after the car dies at speed and i can continue on.

There are no ses lights or anything that pop up. So no codes.

Car has 54k miles, purchased used and has no warranty so the work is on me. Just added a bottle of fuel system cleaner to see if that would make any difference.

Any suggestions for this year make of e90?

Much Appreciated.
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      11-06-2010, 07:31 AM   #2
micah_675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desantim View Post
Hello all. Got a bone stock 06 325 auto. Having an issue with the thing dying. It happens at idle or driving, any speed. No difference. I also have been getting a rougher idle periodically with no real rhyme or reason. That just started today, about a week or two after the initial dying started.

When idle the thing will just shut off. No rumble no hesitation, just dead. I think i have noticed it happening when i just start hitting the accelerator after idling at a stop. Not usually under constant throttle after a stop.

It also happens at speed. This does not kill the car entirely as like a manual, if you turn the car off and pop the clutch, it restarts the car. Being an auto, it causes quite a jolt, but the car comes back go life immediately after the car dies at speed and i can continue on.

There are no ses lights or anything that pop up. So no codes.

Car has 54k miles, purchased used and has no warranty so the work is on me. Just added a bottle of fuel system cleaner to see if that would make any difference.

Any suggestions for this year make of e90?

Much Appreciated.
Sounds like you could have torque converter issues. Check your transmission fluid level. (hopefully BMW didn't find it necessary to use that capacitor in your tranny also...) Since it happens at speed and there is no hesitation or gurgle from the motor and when you start, I would look at that first.

If it was ignition issues or even fuel injectors the car would be VERY sluggish and more than likely would never fully die. And it would kinda sputter out if it did.
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      11-06-2010, 02:52 PM   #3
desantim
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This would make some sense... My tranny since purchasing the car has always shifted a little harder than I figured made sense. I wonder if there is something wrong with the tranny/torque converter...

sucks the only way to really test this would be to flush the system with new tranny fluid since all the searches I've found say there is no way to check the fluid level. Or have them drop the tranny and see.

Thank you for the suggestion, I think you are right on here. No power loss at all in the engine what so ever.

M
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      11-07-2010, 08:29 AM   #4
JayReplay
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Yeah it sounds like a transmission issue. Please chime in if you get it fixed. Best of luck!
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      11-07-2010, 06:51 PM   #5
watabaotnao
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i had this happened to me too. my car stalled twice now after buying it about 3 months ago. i get the car on lift kind of symbol after it died(or after i start the car). One time i was reversing then when i changed to drive, the car would move-it died.. he second time i was about to drive off the parking lot then after i hit a bump, the car died...

interval between the two i got was many many weeks. prolly 5 or 6 weeks between
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      11-29-2010, 08:35 PM   #6
desantim
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So I wanted to update this issue. I just had my car towed to a local well established mechanic having been around 20 years, he said he's never seen a car of my year with only 57k miles have so many error codes and stored from so many systems concurrently.

He said he was printing out all the codes and going to try to correlate what may be happening. 2 hours later I get a call. He tells me, I'm replacing your battery. unbenounced to me, although my battery was starting my car properly, it's quite possible it wasn't retaining enough juice to properly control the myriad of systems the car needs to run properly. It got so bad that the car wouldn't stay running once started as of yesterday and almost stranded me on a highway.

He drove the car home today to test it out and will call me in the morning with the prognosis.

If it is only the battery, which at this point, I have no idea if he made it home fine or not, I would be shocked. The tranny wouldn't shift properly, the engine would cut out, there were so many things that seemed to point at larger, much larger issues. That said, it may be of note to check battery status.

He said he tested my battery, it was only putting out 8 volts which he said the bare minimum is 10 volts.

Hope this works :/
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      11-30-2010, 08:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desantim View Post
So I wanted to update this issue. I just had my car towed to a local well established mechanic having been around 20 years, he said he's never seen a car of my year with only 57k miles have so many error codes and stored from so many systems concurrently.

He said he was printing out all the codes and going to try to correlate what may be happening. 2 hours later I get a call. He tells me, I'm replacing your battery. unbenounced to me, although my battery was starting my car properly, it's quite possible it wasn't retaining enough juice to properly control the myriad of systems the car needs to run properly. It got so bad that the car wouldn't stay running once started as of yesterday and almost stranded me on a highway.

He drove the car home today to test it out and will call me in the morning with the prognosis.

If it is only the battery, which at this point, I have no idea if he made it home fine or not, I would be shocked. The tranny wouldn't shift properly, the engine would cut out, there were so many things that seemed to point at larger, much larger issues. That said, it may be of note to check battery status.

He said he tested my battery, it was only putting out 8 volts which he said the bare minimum is 10 volts.

Hope this works :/
interesting.
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      12-01-2010, 06:22 PM   #8
desantim
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Yeah I lied... They have no real idea still what is wrong with the car. They are looking at likely it is going to be the Tranny computer, they tried to reprogram the computer, and the programming threw up errors, they aren't 100% sure what is wrong, and they are telling me the part alone is $3000, and the overal procedure will take close to $5k in cost, and that's if what they are telling me is the case.

~m
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      12-01-2010, 07:35 PM   #9
bmw6953
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My car has also shifted hard since I bought it espcially from 1st to 2nd and at low RPM's. Has any one fixed this issue? softwear update maybe?
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      12-01-2010, 07:56 PM   #10
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that;s why i never buy used or non CPO BMWs
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      12-01-2010, 11:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsekun View Post
that;s why i never buy used or non CPO BMWs
And that's why BMW keeps making so much money off ya too... huh?

I love how everyone is afraid of these cars out of warranty. Seriously if it breaks, fix it. Thus far to me they seem fairly straight forward to fix compared to most cars I've worked with. They still do the same thing as every other car, fuel, air, spark, etc... Chances are insanely slim that you'll have anything major enough happen to the car to justify the premium you paid for a new car... and many cases even a CPO car.

To the OP, I'd make the shop be 100% sure on that $3k part before you pay to have it replaced... chances are it's something stupid / simple that they are just missing. My brother in-law had "random stalling" issues with his and it turned out it was his battery cable / connector.
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      12-04-2010, 12:27 AM   #12
desantim
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$576 ground wire. That's what it cost me to find out what was wrong. Luckily i chose a phenomenal local shop that was working on my car, they didn't just tear into the thing and start replacing things. It would have taken 2 months to have a transmission sent from Germany, and another 2 weeks to install and i would have been out of $7k dollars.

I can't say enough about the guys at worked on my car. If anyone is ever in the portland oregon area, i highly highly suggest Eric and his crew at http://www.boydmotorwerks.com/ .

Mario
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      01-09-2011, 10:37 PM   #13
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I'm chiming in late on this, but what a great shop.

No problems since this fix?
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      07-03-2011, 04:34 AM   #14
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Ive just had a similar issue. I am deployed in Iraq and my wife is making the drive from Michigan to Texas in my 06 325i AT. She sent me an email saying that while she was on the highway around the Memphis area, the car started shaking and idling rough then stalled. She pulled over at a gas station and didn't know what to do so she let it sit and got back in and it was fine till around the Texarakana area where it happened again. She called for a tow and is now worried that she will not make it to Ft Hood. Im thinking its possibly a fuel issue, maybe the filter is clogged? Injectors? I also read about bad battery connections... can anyone help me (and my wife)?

Edit: I am the first owner of the car. Bought brand new in Germany May 2006. Warranty is up.
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