Service Engine soon: P0012 code

PiZauL · 11-07-2010, 07:08 PM

Hey guys, this is the first issue I have ran into while being out of warranty. I have searched around, and there isn't too much info on this regarding the E90. I had the SEL come on this morning on a cold start, car running perfectly fine, and I had the code read at autozone. The printout that the guy gave me said
Definition:
"A" Camshaft position - timing over-retarded bank 1.

Explanation:
Camshaft actuator failure

Probable Cause:
Mechanical timing condition

Is all this fancy talk for me needing a camshaft position sensor for the intake cam? I gather it can't be an issue with the VANOS since car is running smoothly with no rough idle. I really want to avoid the dealer and was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction on how to resolve this and if its alright to drive like this for a little bit?

e90pilot · 11-07-2010, 07:17 PM

Sounds like VANOS. DIY will be tough because you will be dealing with pressurized oil lines. Also you need to track down the actual failed component. Go find an indy shop with good reviews and let them take care of it or at least try and figure out what is actually broken.

PiZauL · 11-07-2010, 11:22 PM

Oh boy, so it begins!

A coworker of mine knows a BMW tech, he is gonna take a look at it tomorrow.

Chriztofor · 11-08-2010, 08:46 AM

I would guess it is the cam shaft sensor. Now which one, exhaust or intake? That is why you should invest in a BT scan tool or peake too. See my sig. below.

PiZauL · 11-08-2010, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

I would guess it is the cam shaft sensor. Now which one, exhaust or intake? That is why you should invest in a BT scan tool or peake too. See my sig. below.

I believe the "A" in the definition means its the intake sensor. I talked to that tech yesterday and he told me one of the first tests they do is switch the sensors and see if that does anything. Another thing they do is load software which adds some extra logic to clean out the VANOS system of dirt particles. Guess I will find out tonight what the dilly is.

I do plan on getting the BT tool, mainly for instances like this and doing the battery registration.

PiZauL · 11-08-2010, 04:35 PM

So the light turned off by itself.. I will wait till it goes on again (hoping it doesn't).

tosaytheleased · 03-10-2015, 09:44 PM

Same code as well.

Tried cleaning them from the DIY on here but no luck. Hopefully both replacements I purchased fix the issue.

UncleWede · 03-11-2015, 09:29 AM

I've done all those things and more, to no avail. Dealer can't even diagnose it. My next choice, but one I am still not taking on, is Dr. Vanos, replacement. I've swapped and replaced sensors. Works for about 500 miles. I've run some extra cleaners through the oil just before oil changes, no help.

11-07-2010, 07:08 PM	#1
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	Service Engine soon: P0012 code Hey guys, this is the first issue I have ran into while being out of warranty. I have searched around, and there isn't too much info on this regarding the E90. I had the SEL come on this morning on a cold start, car running perfectly fine, and I had the code read at autozone. The printout that the guy gave me said Definition: "A" Camshaft position - timing over-retarded bank 1. Explanation: Camshaft actuator failure Probable Cause: Mechanical timing condition Is all this fancy talk for me needing a camshaft position sensor for the intake cam? I gather it can't be an issue with the VANOS since car is running smoothly with no rough idle. I really want to avoid the dealer and was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction on how to resolve this and if its alright to drive like this for a little bit?
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11-07-2010, 07:17 PM	#2
e90pilot Freight Dawg 104 Rep 2,103 Posts Drives: E90 325i Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Oakland, CA iTrader: (3)	Sounds like VANOS. DIY will be tough because you will be dealing with pressurized oil lines. Also you need to track down the actual failed component. Go find an indy shop with good reviews and let them take care of it or at least try and figure out what is actually broken. __________________ --Marcelo '06 Arctic Metallic 325i \| Sport Package \| 6MT \| Dinan Stage III suspension \| Dinan exhaust \| 330i manifold swap! Click here! \| Active Autowerke tune \| 135i Brake Calipers \| Deiselboost caliper brackets \| E46 M3 front rotors
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11-07-2010, 11:22 PM	#3
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	Oh boy, so it begins! A coworker of mine knows a BMW tech, he is gonna take a look at it tomorrow.
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11-08-2010, 08:46 AM	#4
Chriztofor Colonel 103 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: '06 325i and '13 X5 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Burbs iTrader: (1)	I would guess it is the cam shaft sensor. Now which one, exhaust or intake? That is why you should invest in a BT scan tool or peake too. See my sig. below. __________________ If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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11-08-2010, 04:35 PM	#6
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	So the light turned off by itself.. I will wait till it goes on again (hoping it doesn't).
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03-10-2015, 09:44 PM	#7
tosaytheleased Enlisted Member 4 Rep 41 Posts Drives: 328i Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mahopac iTrader: (0)	Same code as well. Tried cleaning them from the DIY on here but no luck. Hopefully both replacements I purchased fix the issue.
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03-11-2015, 09:29 AM	#8
UncleWede Long Time Admirer, First Time Owner 18024 Rep 9,378 Posts Drives: G01 X3 M40i Dark Graphite Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Oxnard, CA iTrader: (0)	I've done all those things and more, to no avail. Dealer can't even diagnose it. My next choice, but one I am still not taking on, is Dr. Vanos, replacement. I've swapped and replaced sensors. Works for about 500 miles. I've run some extra cleaners through the oil just before oil changes, no help.
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