[etm001]

Hi,

This weekend I undertook my first interior detail of my '07 335i. I thought I would share my experience and some lessons learned.

Where to Start?

I cleaned the car from back to front, in multiple pass: trunk, then the rear interior, then front interior. By "multiple passes", I mean passing through the car from front-to-back with one cleaning product at a time.

Cleaning Sequence

Here's the order in which I cleaned the car:

• Removed floor mats and washed them down.
• Vacuumed interior surfaces.
• Cleaned carpeted surfaces.
• Cleaned rubber/plastic/vinyl surfaces.
• Applied protectant to rubber/vinyl/plastic surfaces.
• Quick re-vacuum of floor carpeting.
• Applied protectant fabric/upholstered surfaces.
• Cleaned glass.
• Cleaned wood trim.
• Cleaned leather surfaces.

I actually have yet to clean the leather surfaces, as I need to leave the leather restorer on the seats for several days (I'm using Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil, etc.)

Products Used

• 303 Fabric and Vinyl Cleaner: I used a diluted solution, per the product instructions. It seemed to work well - I didn't notice a ton of dirt/grim being removed, but then again, the interior wasn't very dirty to begin with.
• 303 High Tech Fabric Guard: I can't really evaluate the product after just applying it - the proof is in its ability to repel stains and water over time. The one thing to note is that the product does have a slight chemical odor, which can be a bit strong depending on how much you apply.
• 303 Aerospace Protectant: again, only time will tell how well the product works. It left more of a matte finish than a glossy finish, which I don't mind.
• Detailed Image Leather and Vinyl Scrub Brush: I used this to work the fabric cleaner into the floor carpets. This is definitely the wrong tool for the job - the bristles are much too firm and pull on the carpeted surface. I'll use a softer brush in the future.
• Stoner Invisible Glass: this worked great. The glass was crystal clear.
• Metro Vac n Blo Vacuum: this is not a cheap vacuum. I was hesitant to buy it, but I'm glad I did. It has very strong suction (perhaps a little too strong!), is compact and easily maneuvered and ships with a large number of attachments. I didn't think much of the blower feature when I bought this vacuum, but it turned out to be much appreciated. I followed the advice of others and purchased the dolly attachment. Some have complained that the hose is a little too short, requiring you to move the vacuum a bit when using it. I didn't find this to be too burdensome. That said, I might pick up a 3 foot extension hose. My biggest gripe: for this price, a carrying case/bag should have been included. (Right now I'm storing the vacuum and all the attachments in the shipping box). Final note: search around and you can find the vacuum with the dolly included for the same price at which many retailers are selling the vacuum alone.
• Zwipes Microfiber Cloths: I had a 36 pack of these cleaning cloths, so that's what I used (cost is about $.65/cloth). They are well sized for cleaning interior surfaces. That said, these clothes have a slightly rough "gripy-ness" to them; it's a little hard to describe, but noticeable when you run a cloth across the palm of your hand. I had a slight concern that the "gripy-ness" would cause scratches, but all surfaces came away completely unharmed. That said, I'm still bugged by the feel of these cloths, and might replace them..
• DI Microfiber reTHICKulous Towel: the description is correct: this is a ridiculously think and soft towel - well worth it. I used it to clean the glass.
• Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil and Pristine Clean: I've yet to apply these products, but have used them with success in the past.

Lessons Learned

• First and foremost: a thorough interior detailing is a lot of work work - but well worth the reward. (No doubt I'll be better and faster in the future).
• For me, a full interior detailing is only needed every 6 weeks, with quick vacuums and wipe downs every 2 weeks. I simply don't drive enough to justify fully detailing the interior more frequently. Of course, your mileage may vary.
• Vacuuming, cleaning, and protecting the floor carpeting should arguably be the last step in the cleaning process, as the cleaning of other areas may cause dirt/debris to settle onto the floor. I cleaned the floors earlier in the process because I was constrained for time, and needed to allow the cleaner and protectant to dry before driving the car.
• I didn't attempt to clean the headliner. For me, it's probably more worth it to have it professionally cleaned 1x/year. If you are going to clean the headliner, I would recommend cleaning it first, as spray from the cleaning products will settle onto the other interior surfaces.
• I cleaned the wood trim towards the end of the process, as it acted as a magnet for residue from other cleaning products. I cleaned the wood trim with a slightly damp cloth, and it came out looking fine. I've heard others using wax, guitar polish, or an APC; the product used it's a matter of preference and all work fine.
• Glass should be cleaned last, as spray residue from other cleaning products will inevitably land on the glass.
• I didn't bother cleaning the floor mats with rubber/vinyl cleaner or applying a protectant. It seemed like overkill to me, as the mats become dirty rather quickly from daily use. (Next time, I might at least apply a protectant).
• Washing the floor carpeting also seemed like overkill. Quite frankly, my floor carpeting didn't seem that dirty to begin with. As with the headliner, I might just have the carpeting professionally cleaned 1x/year.

What I'll do Differently Next Time

Over spray was often an issue, i.e., surfaces becoming contaminated from spray directed at other areas - this despite being very careful when spraying. I corrected for this by spraying into a microfiber towel, then cleaning the surface. This worked OK, but resulted in over-saturated towels that had to be changed very frequently. Next time, I'm going to try applying cleaners and protectants to rubber/vinyl surfaces with a foam painting brush, followed by a wipe down with a dry microfiber towel. I think this approach will allow for a high degree of control, minimize microfiber towel use, and eliminate cross-surface contamination. It might not work on every surface, but should work well on things like door seals, door sills, etc.

Good luck with your own interior detailing efforts!

[DLE]

Good work man. The list of products are great and commonly used on this forum.

As for the time of detailing your interior. I don't think I could do it every 6 weeks just because I always have people in my car (people don't care about your car when it's not theirs). I Just give it a good detail and make sure to give it a thorough clean up at the end of every week. I a like my stuff clean haha.

[mikex9191]

I always find that leather is the hardest part to deal with. Let us know how cleaning your leather goes and if there are any tips to get the job done well

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by mikex9191

I always find that leather is the hardest part to deal with. Let us know how cleaning your leather goes and if there are any tips to get the job done well

CliffNotes® Version

Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather. The type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation

An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.

Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.

The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface

Absorbency rate -Low

(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use a aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) on ventilated seats

(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.

(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.

(d) Patina - this is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.

The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles

Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself

[gary88]

I'd like to hear how Leatherique worked out for you as I'm considering picking some up to replace my Wolfgang cleaner/conditioner.

[electricjet]

... TOGWT ... thank you for the "insight" ... greatly appreciated

regards

[Detailed Image]

Great post and I'm happy to hear you learned so much! As always if we can help you in any way don't hesitate to ask.

Originally Posted by gary88

I'd like to hear how Leatherique worked out for you as I'm considering picking some up to replace my Wolfgang cleaner/conditioner.

Check out this Leatherique How To article if interested in learning more!

Greg @ DI

[etm001]

Hello,

I finally found time to apply my leather cleaner and thought I'd share some observations.

Note: all of these observations are specific to my experience applying Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil. Some of these tips may not be applicable when applying other products.

The Tool for the Job

I had great success applying Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil with a foam painter's brush. I know others apply this product with bare hands, but for me the foam brush was fast, allowed for a reasonable degree of control, and helped ensure an even distribution of the product. Using a foam brush allowed me to apply the product in tight areas, such as the crevice between the seat back and seat bottom, the gap between the inside seat surfaces and center arm rest, etc.

If you are going to use a foam brush, here are my suggestions:

• A little bit goes a long way; it's easy to overload the brush.
• Be gentle when inserting the brush between two surfaces. Too much compression on the brush can squeeze out the cleaner (especially if the brush is too saturated), making a mess.
• After loading the brush with cleaner, first run it along the seams on the leather surface. The seams are a great place to discharge some of the excess cleaner you'll have on the brush after loading it, as they help the product penetrate deeper into the leather.
• Be careful not to run the brush too quickly back-and-forth on the leather surface, otherwise you'll end up flicking drops of cleaner onto other surfaces of the car.

The "Sloppy" Application Method

On thing became abundantly clear as I applied the cleaner to the leather surfaces: despite the control the foam brush provides, it was impossible to prevent the cleaner from contaminating non-leather surfaces, such as window switches, plastic trim, child seat anchors, glass, etc. Sure, if you go really, really, slowly you might be able to prevent most cross-contamination, but it'll take you a long time to apply the cleaner. Is it worth going super slow? In my opinion, no.

I decided that above all else, I wanted the best application and penetration of the leather cleaner as possible. And I didn't want to spend 2 hours applying it. Thus, my "sloppy" application method, which is simply this: yes, do your best to avoid directly applying the cleaner to non-leather surfaces, but don't worry if you do - just wipe off the excess with a microfiber towel as you go. It's more important to have a good, liberal application of the leather cleaner. Some more tips:

• Plan on using 2-3 small microfiber towels to wipe off excess cleaner from non-leather surfaces.
• Do be careful around areas where the leather abuts fabric surfaces, such as the headliner fabric and trunk fabric (rear seats); you don't want to stain these surfaces.

Cleaning the Leather: Your First or Last Step?

Having accepted the fact that I could not keep the non-leather surfaces pristine when applying the leather cleaner, I now believe that cleaning the leather should not be the last step in the cleaning process (as I recommended in my first post); it should be the first step. Why? Simple: if the non-leather surfaces are going to be contaminated in some fashion, you might as well clean them after the seats, not before.

Protecting Seat Belt Fabric

Although I didn't do this, it struck me that seat belts could be wrapped in plastic wrap to prevent absorption of the leather cleaner, as the seat belts can't be removed, and will be in contact with the leather seats after the cleaner has been applied (especially true for the rear seat belts).

Is this overkill? Maybe, but it's just a though.

Applying Leatherique: Some Random Thoughts

• Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil benefits from being applied on warm leather surfaces. In other words, a hot summer day is the perfect. But it also means that you are going to sweat if it's really hot outside. Wear comfortable clothing, keep the doors of the car open, and wear a headband to keep the sweat from dripping off your brow onto all the surfaces of your car. (It was close to 100 degrees outside when I applied the cleaner. Ouch!)
• For my 07 335i, it took 16oz to clean the leather seats, leather door trims, and other miscellaneous leather surfaces.

In What Order to Clean?

Based on my experience:

• Center console leather first (arm rest, parking brake, etc.), as it's easier to sit on the front and/or rear seats when cleaning this area.
• Front seats: as you can sit on the rear seats when cleaning the backs of the front seats.
• Rear seats: sit on one side - it doesn't matter which - lean over, and start cleaning the *other* side, working towards yourself. Keep working back towards the door until you've cleaned the whole seat.
• Leather door trim: do this last, as you'll be moving in and out of the car, and you could brush against the doors as you do so, getting cleaner on yourself.

If you haven't noticed, I'm a big fan of staying seated as much as possible while cleaning - it's a little more comfortable that way.

Which Surfaces Are Actually Leather?

I realized when cleaning that I wasn't completely sure which surfaces where leather! It sounds silly, but it's true. For example, I blindly applied leather cleaner to the door pulls (not the handles), until it dawned on me that they are not leather wrapped. Doh! Here are the surfaces I know are leather:

• Seats
• Emergency brake handle (leather wrapped) and dust cover
• Steering wheel
• Upper portion of doors

Rather than revealing any more of my ignorance, please feel free to reply with other surfaces that are leather trimmed (I have my suspicions).

Next Steps

I'm going to leave the Rejuvinator Oil on the seats for at least a day, then follow-up with Pristine Clean. Hopefully I'll remember to take some before/after pics.

[TOGWT]

[Over spray was often an issue, i.e., surfaces becoming contaminated from spray directed at other areas - this despite being very careful when spraying.]

Cleaning products (with the exception of glass cleaners) should be sprayed on to a folded towel not directly to the surface, as this may cause ‘spot or streak’ clean patches on the surface

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by electricjet

... TOGWT ... thank you for the "insight" ... greatly appreciated

regards

I'm glad the information was of some help

Knowledge unshared is Experience wasted

[etm001]

Hello,

I've finished the full Leatherique cleaning cycle (Rejuvinator Oil, then Prestine Clean). I have to say, the results are great - and my leather wasn't in bad shape to begin with.

Rejuvinator Oil was applied and left on the leather for one day, during which temperatures reached 102 degrees (quite hot for my neck of the woods). The Rejuvinator Oil dried to a haze on the leather surfaces and was slightly tacky to the touch.

I followed up with Pristine Clean, applying it with a spray bottle, and working it into the leather surfaces with a small microfiber sponge. Next time I think I'll use a leather brush, as the sponge absorbed the cleaner and became too saturated.

After my first pass over all the surfaces with Pristine Clean, the leather looked OK, but I was bothered by two things: I could feel residual cleaner on the leather, and the distribution of the cleaner was uneven, leaving noticeable bright spots. I decided that I need to wipe down the leather with a damp cloth, to remove the excess cleaner. I was frustrated that I had to do this, as I couldn't figure out why I was getting these results, as I followed the Leatherique instructions carefully.

Well, it turns out I didn't follow the instructions that carefully. The instructions plainly state that the leather should be wiped down with a damp cloth after applying Pristine Clean, then buffed. Doh! Makes perfect sense, of course.

I wiped down the leather with a damp cloth and buffed. Leather looks great, with more of a matte finish than a bold shine, and now has soft, buttery smoothness. The Pristine Clean does have a very slight "aroma", but nothing unpleasant, and it dissipates quickly.

When I returned to my house I wrung out the sponge I used to apply the Pristine Clean, and a ton of dirt was in the waste water. There's no doubt that Leatherique worked as described, bring dirt and other contaminants to the surface of the leather for removal.

My only other thoughts are 1) Rejuvinator Oil only needs to be applied 1x or 2x per year, and 2) I used about 16oz of Rejuvinator Oil across all leather surfaces, and about 8-10oz of Pristine Clean.

Overall, Leatherique worked quite well for me, and I recommend it.

[daveezyy]

Very nice write up. I want to try this for my next interior detail. Where can I purchase the Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil and Prestine Clean? Thanks!

[etm001]

Originally Posted by daveezyy

Very nice write up. I want to try this for my next interior detail. Where can I purchase the Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil and Prestine Clean? Thanks!

You can purchase Leatherique products from www.leatherique.com or www.detailedimage.com.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by daveezyy

Where can I purchase the Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil and Prestine Clean? Thanks!

We have both the Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil in stock and ready to ship out immediately at www.DetailedImage.com. We also offer 10% off to forum members with the coupon code e90post. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI