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      08-23-2007, 08:50 AM   #1
BlackSapphireZ
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Brake Fluid change w/CDV Removal

THIS DIY IS FOR 2003 Z4 2.5i MANUAL
I would do this when I do the brakes them selves. dont' sue me if you make a mistake..and if you are not mechanically inclined, bring it to me i charge a lot

tools required
1)8mm/9mm/10mm wrench
2)jack
3) FOUR jack stands
4)choice of brake fluid, mine being ATE blue racing fluid
5)one man bleeder kit(if you are alone) or a clear tube if you have a helper
6)17mm wrenches


My way of jacking up all four tires safely.
1)jack driver side only, put the jackstand under the lower control arm.
2)do the same on the passengerside
3)go to the rear, look at the center where the two bars come together and bolts on. Jack from there to a position and place jackstands under the factory jack location on the sides


1)take all four wheels off

2)get the car in the air. all 4 tires off, and in somewhat of a leveled position.


3)unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservior...aka clutch fluid reservoir. they are the same and draw fluid from same reservoir.


4)Starting farthest away from the reservoir, aka the Right Rear Wheel, remove the rubber cap if needed, put the hose from one-man bleeder to the nipple and unscrew. rear screws are smaller than the front. Since my fluid color is significantly different than factory you will know when the old fluid has come out of the lines.
TO BLEED...Pump the brake pedal about three times and bottle on the one man bleeder will fill up when doing this, CONTINUOUSLY monitor the fluid level in the reservoir. DO NOT let it get below "LOW" mark it will let air into the line and will be very hard to get out!!!



5)repeat step 4 for RR, LR, RF, LF in that order to completely remove the old fluid.

6)NOW for CDV...once you have done all that locate the CDV on the left side of the transmission. THIS PICTURE IS AFTER CDV REMOVAL


7) I don't know the name of this tool but use it to clamp down on the rubber hose to reduce the mess and unscrew the bolts. they go in opposite direction!. once it's unscrewed, the CDV simply falls out.



8)there is no picture of this...bleed the clutch line by unscrewing on the small nipple by same method as you would bleed the brakes. step on the clutch, manually pull back, repeat.

9)again, take the car down in a safe manner, use a common sense and you are done!
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      08-23-2007, 09:04 AM   #2
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Great write up!

- FWIW... the only thing that I would do differently is NOT use the control arm to support the car.
The control arm is not designed to be loaded in this manner.
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      08-23-2007, 10:13 AM   #3
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i found that there is really no other way unless you drive the car up on a ramp to support.

if you can write up a better way to jack it up, please do let us know
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      08-23-2007, 11:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSapphireZ View Post
i found that there is really no other way unless you drive the car up on a ramp to support.

if you can write up a better way to jack it up, please do let us know
IDK if the M is different, but I have a jack point (puck) front cross member in the center.
Then I use the normal jack stand points (f & r) along the side sills.

Name:  front jack point.jpg
Views: 17336
Size:  76.0 KB
original pic from Randy Forbes
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Last edited by inTgr8r; 12-30-2007 at 01:29 PM..
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      08-23-2007, 11:41 AM   #5
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gotcha...i don't think I have that
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      12-30-2007, 12:17 PM   #6
Randy Forbes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
IDK if the M is different, but I have a jack point (puck) front cross member in the center.
Then I use the normal jack stand points (f & r) along the side sills.

Attachment 95663
Nice picture, but you should give credit where it's due... (and he did )

All the originals are here: http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album57 Click on any thumbnail for low resolution, then click on the low resolution image for high resolution image.

Randy Forbes

Last edited by Randy Forbes; 12-30-2007 at 02:01 PM..
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      09-24-2008, 01:40 AM   #7
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I have the smg transmission and i am planning on bleeding my brakes. Do I need to flush the clutch system also???? Not sure if it would have a clutch system similiar to the manual transmission.
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      06-12-2014, 02:49 PM   #8
donoman
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Is the CDV accessible on an M Coupe without removing any underbody shielding? I was under the car the other day and couldn't find it. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough.
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      06-12-2014, 03:34 PM   #9
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Garage List
you do have to remove one shield, but its only a few bolts.

You want to see something similar to this.

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      06-13-2014, 12:24 AM   #10
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You have to remove the small shield at the back of the reinforcement plate.
It's thin metal held on by 3 small bolts in a row and one off to the side to an "L" bracket. (IIRC)
Don't remove the reinforcement plate with the 8 honkin' bolts.
They're "one-time-use" bolts that have to be angle torqued.
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      06-13-2014, 01:38 AM   #11
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Thanks guys, I found it with a good flashlight. Removed it, spilled clutch fluid all over myself and on my face. But overall it was an easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes to figure out what to do and then 2 minutes to do it. I also changed my tranny fluid to Royal Purple Synchromax, and wow what a different experience.

She now shifts smoothly and clutch engages predictably. I've gotten used to the CDV but I can now more confidently feather the gas and clutch for those special situations.
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      06-13-2014, 02:58 PM   #12
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I would change instruction #1 to read ' partially loosen wheel lug bolts'.

While this method generally is adequate and effective, it is not proper. In order to flush the fluid from the DSC/ABS pump, you must utilize the BMW service computer.
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      06-13-2014, 03:01 PM   #13
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SPEEDTRONIX714: No, you will not bleed your clutch nor is it required as normal maintenance.
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