F30POST
F30POST
2012-2015 BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / TSBs and Service Bulletin > I'm totally going to screw up the break-in period - this is not a "worry" post
ARMA SPEED
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      04-25-2013, 02:33 PM   #1
itwasepic
Private
United_States
17
Rep
89
Posts

Drives: 335i
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The North

iTrader: (0)

I'm totally going to screw up the break-in period - this is not a "worry" post

I gave my 335i a pat on the butt at the dealership then drove off with full acknowledgment that I am going to put my toe over the line on the break-in period. I found myself at 85 on the freeway and RPMs at 4500 on several occasion. I'm not doing burnouts but shoot, this is going to be hard to keep under 80 and not hit over 3000 on the RPM.

Good luck to me, I guess
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 03:02 PM   #2
Jeff_in_Oviedo
Delivered!
Jeff_in_Oviedo's Avatar
United_States
13
Rep
139
Posts

Drives: '13 F30 335 M Sport
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Oviedo, FL

iTrader: (0)

F30 sedan owners manual, page 156: "Do not exceed the maximum engine and road speed: For Gasoline engine, 4,500 rpm and 100 mph".

You are fine doing 85 mph and 4500 rpm.

I am in the same boat! I have about 300 miles on the odo.
__________________
Delivered!: 2013 F30 335i M Sport, 8-speed Sport Trans, Estoril Blue/Coral Red, 403M, Premium Pkg, Dynamic Handling Pkg, Driver Assist Pkg, HK Sound, Enhanced BT & USB
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 03:05 PM   #3
marseille82
Captain
marseille82's Avatar
No_Country
390
Rep
777
Posts

Drives: 2022 X3 M40i
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: OH

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by itwasepic View Post
I gave my 335i a pat on the butt at the dealership then drove off with full acknowledgment that I am going to put my toe over the line on the break-in period. I found myself at 85 on the freeway and RPMs at 4500 on several occasion. I'm not doing burnouts but shoot, this is going to be hard to keep under 80 and not hit over 3000 on the RPM.

Good luck to me, I guess
Just watch out for the 5.0
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 03:52 PM   #4
itwasepic
Private
United_States
17
Rep
89
Posts

Drives: 335i
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The North

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by marseille82 View Post
Just watch out for the 5.0
I think a fuzz buster purchase is Top 5 on the list.
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 05:13 PM   #5
Roki_014
Major
208
Rep
1,280
Posts

Drives: 2024 i5 M60
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Chicago

iTrader: (0)

R u guys aware before they leave the factory they are red lined in every gear, even when i picked it up at the welt they told me to go a head as fast as i could go
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #6
itwasepic
Private
United_States
17
Rep
89
Posts

Drives: 335i
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The North

iTrader: (0)

Did not know this, thanks!
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 07:04 PM   #7
Nepal
Private
11
Rep
67
Posts

Drives: BMW 2013 335i M sport
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SolCa

iTrader: (0)

You are very conservative about your driving. I reached almost 100 mph on the freeway for a couple of times after I picked up my 335i. Can't resist.
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 08:39 PM   #8
Roki_014
Major
208
Rep
1,280
Posts

Drives: 2024 i5 M60
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Chicago

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepal View Post
You are very conservative about your driving. I reached almost 100 mph on the freeway for a couple of times after I picked up my 335i. Can't resist.
I went 143 mph withn an hour of picking it up at the welt
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 08:49 PM   #9
Nepal
Private
11
Rep
67
Posts

Drives: BMW 2013 335i M sport
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SolCa

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roki_014 View Post
I went 143 mph withn an hour of picking it up at the welt
If I did this, I would probably spend the night in jail for sure.
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 09:03 PM   #10
Oakhill
New Member
0
Rep
8
Posts

Drives: BMW 325 xit
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: MA, USA

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2018 BMW X3  [0.00]
I bought my first BMW--a 2002-in 1968, and my last one in 2005. My salesman in 2005told me to watch out because BMWs are oil burners. I broke it in as I always have with a new car, and then added the first quart of oil after 100,000 miles. It did not burn oil.

I seem to remember that for the first time I did not have to change the break-in oil, and was told that BMW runs the engines on a stand, then changes the oil and then installs them, so that the engine is broken-in before we get the new car. I would be interested in whether any of you ignored break in and then kept the car more than a 100,000 miles? Did you ever have to add oil?
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 11:02 PM   #11
pkimM3r
Banned
pkimM3r's Avatar
205
Rep
7,298
Posts

Drives: m3 saloon in granny mode.
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: lost angeles

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by glewinnek
I bought my first BMW--a 2002-in 1968, and my last one in 2005. My salesman in 2005told me to watch out because BMWs are oil burners. I broke it in as I always have with a new car, and then added the first quart of oil after 100,000 miles. It did not burn oil.

I seem to remember that for the first time I did not have to change the break-in oil, and was told that BMW runs the engines on a stand, then changes the oil and then installs them, so that the engine is broken-in before we get the new car. I would be interested in whether any of you ignored break in and then kept the car more than a 100,000 miles? Did you ever have to add oil?
100k miles must be wrong. I think its for the transmission, axles and all the other moving parts more than engine.
Appreciate 0
      04-25-2013, 11:12 PM   #12
chrisny
Brigadier General
chrisny's Avatar
United_States
547
Rep
3,307
Posts

Drives: 2020 X5 40i
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roki_014
R u guys aware before they leave the factory they are red lined in every gear, even when i picked it up at the welt they told me to go a head as fast as i could go
Amen
Appreciate 0
      04-26-2013, 02:57 PM   #13
F104
Captain
Belgium
19
Rep
732
Posts

Drives: E92 320D M-sport
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: belgium

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roki_014 View Post
R u guys aware before they leave the factory they are red lined in every gear, even when i picked it up at the welt they told me to go a head as fast as i could go
sure, 40 years ago.. Today BMW test engines in a test cell, no transmission attached. To cut down on test time, each engine will be tested in a known cold state, that is cold engine to start with, warm fluids going in, and a 1-2 minute test max. It ain't redlined, is is tested to achieve a certain level. By testing each engine exactly the same way you can predict future (post run in) performance at normal operating temperature.
There's three stages in engine testing:
- "cold" = sounds like bad, but you start with well known conditions which change predictable during a short test. If you get X% performance the engine is good. These are checked against durability test with one per hundred, or per thousand.
- "warm up" = a state where you really don't know where each fluid/component is temperature wise, and not reliable for testing
- "warmed up" = Nice to have but too costly
Appreciate 0
      04-27-2013, 08:58 PM   #14
RPM90
Major General
890
Rep
7,047
Posts

Drives: 340i M-sport AT
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by F104 View Post
sure, 40 years ago.. Today BMW test engines in a test cell, no transmission attached. To cut down on test time, each engine will be tested in a known cold state, that is cold engine to start with, warm fluids going in, and a 1-2 minute test max. It ain't redlined, is is tested to achieve a certain level. By testing each engine exactly the same way you can predict future (post run in) performance at normal operating temperature.
There's three stages in engine testing:
- "cold" = sounds like bad, but you start with well known conditions which change predictable during a short test. If you get X% performance the engine is good. These are checked against durability test with one per hundred, or per thousand.
- "warm up" = a state where you really don't know where each fluid/component is temperature wise, and not reliable for testing
- "warmed up" = Nice to have but too costly
All freshly built engines need to be red lined after being built, warmed up, then taken to red line.
Don't see why BMW would be any different.
Perhaps you're describing something different like, there is the actual break in of a freshly built engine, and then there is a test performed on certain engines.

After being freshly built they have a system to set the engine into for cooling and such, true no trans hook up but doesn't need that.
Fill with break in oil, fire up, warm up, taken up slowly to max engine speed.
Break in oil drained, fresh factory oil filled, move along.

The "break in" for the rest of the car will happen during the first few hundred miles driven by the owner.
Some of those parts are brakes, tires, clutch in MT, differential, etc...
Appreciate 0
      05-06-2013, 01:23 PM   #15
Steve33
Captain
Steve33's Avatar
No_Country
50
Rep
808
Posts

Drives: 2018 SQ5
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal

iTrader: (0)

It's a controversial topic, some say follow the manual, some say follow the method below.

First:
The first 20-40 miles (depending on the source) are the most important to run the engine more on the higher rpm side to get the piston rings to seat properly (note high RPM, not high speed). This will help the seals to seat the best, get the most power, keep high compression, increased longevity, etc.
Appreciate 0
      05-06-2013, 07:52 PM   #16
gio2490
Registered
0
Rep
3
Posts

Drives: 2013 328i
Join Date: May 2013
Location: So Cal

iTrader: (0)

So what is the real answer? I have only 150 miles currently on my F30 328i. I havent been heavy on the gas and kept it under 3k rpm. I've mainly been driving it in eco pro mode (this has been so hard, i just want to drive!!)

Any recommendations? Does it actually make a difference? Seems like everyone has their own opinion. Any help would be grateful!

Thanks in advance
Appreciate 0
      05-06-2013, 08:33 PM   #17
Steve33
Captain
Steve33's Avatar
No_Country
50
Rep
808
Posts

Drives: 2018 SQ5
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by gio2490 View Post
So what is the real answer? I have only 150 miles currently on my F30 328i. I havent been heavy on the gas and kept it under 3k rpm. I've mainly been driving it in eco pro mode (this has been so hard, i just want to drive!!)

Any recommendations? Does it actually make a difference? Seems like everyone has their own opinion. Any help would be grateful!

Thanks in advance
I don't think there is a real answer. Part of it is done so the drivetrain can get slowly broken in. IMO I'm just going to wait until the motor gets warmed up then take it for 20 miles and vary speeds/RPM's on the way to the clear bra shop
Appreciate 0
      05-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #18
estoril335
Private
United_States
8
Rep
76
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i estoril blue on red!
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (0)

So what is the break-in miles?
I have a 335i m sport, with 300 miles.
__________________
2013 335i M Sport Estoril Blue on Red (Lemon)
2014 i3 BEV - Solar Orange on 21's (Lease ended)
2017 X5 sdrive35i M-Sport Alpine White (Current Daily)
2015 GT-R Black Edition - Midnight Blue (Current Wknd)
1990 300zx Built Twin Turbo - Black (Current race car)
Appreciate 0
      05-11-2013, 11:02 AM   #19
itwasepic
Private
United_States
17
Rep
89
Posts

Drives: 335i
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The North

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by estoril335 View Post
So what is the break-in miles?
I have a 335i m sport, with 300 miles.
1200 miles per the manual. not to exceed 4500 RPM or 100MPH during that period.
Appreciate 0
      05-12-2013, 03:36 AM   #20
Forgiven
Lieutenant
Forgiven's Avatar
No_Country
122
Rep
586
Posts

Drives: 22, X5 45e
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: D.C.

iTrader: (0)

I like this follow up the best to break in the new engine.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...k-in-a-new-car
Appreciate 0
      05-15-2013, 09:41 AM   #21
DVC
Diligentia Vis Celeritas
DVC's Avatar
United_States
558
Rep
1,477
Posts

Drives: 335i
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern NJ

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckret View Post
I like this follow up the best to break in the new engine.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...k-in-a-new-car
Quote:
Engine Cylinder Walls:
Piston rings don’t rely on their spring tension to seal against the cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few minutes of engine operation, it’s important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower rpms to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won’t burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by—which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life. If you’ve ever seen the car jockeys who drive new cars off the end of the production line into the storage lot, or the transporter drivers zipping up and down the car-hauler ramps, you’ll realize that this all-important step has been performed for you many times. If you’re installing a new engine, simply give it a few seconds of wide-open throttle in a high gear. For the first thousand miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings. If you commute in normal stop-and-go traffic, you’ll be fine. I advise against cruise-controlled sojourns across Nebraska.
I get what's being said here... but the thing is, it would seem that running wide-open throttle in a high gear would result in redline engine rpm and very high road speed. And this kinda conflicts with the manual's advice to avoid 4500+rpm, full-throttle, very high speeds, etc.

Unless the expectation is that you floor it in a high gear (just for a few seconds) at a fairly low rpm... but would that still accomplish the intended?
__________________
Ahead of the curve for specF30

Last edited by DVC; 05-15-2013 at 09:48 AM..
Appreciate 0
      05-16-2013, 08:53 AM   #22
norb335i
Private First Class
14
Rep
180
Posts

Drives: '13 335i M Sport 6MT
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Bay, CA

iTrader: (1)

A lot of useful information shared so far. So what do you guys suggest if I have to drive 530 miles after my pick-up in Munich in early July? All of it will be on the freeway.

Shall I just play with the car accelerating from 60 MPH to 90, keep the speed for a few minutes and then let it slow down to 60 and speed up again, making sure not to go above 4500 RPM, but make it in somewhat dynamic fashion?

It's gonna be a rather long drive especially after flying across the Globe from SFO the day before, so want to make the trip as short as possible, but also don't want to screw up the break-in of my car with setting the speedometer to 90 for the whole trip. :-/
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:03 AM.




f30post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST